1500 vs 2500

I don’t know about Ford and Chevy, but Ram puts out a towing capacity chart based on each truck’s exact specs. Here’s an example:

https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBAvoEbjA%2Bc5q

So if you can find out all the info about the truck needed for the chart, you can find the exact towing capacity per the manufacturer.

Also, most modern trucks (like for the past ~10 years or so) will be wired for towing with an in dash brake controller and a hitch installed by the manufacturer. If it’s a newer truck without that, I’d be automatically skeptical. (Of course this doesn’t apply to much older models)

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Agree on the receiver, but a lot of 1/2 tons won’t come with the integrated brake controller. I wouldn’t hesitate on installing one aftermarket (and a lot of aftermarket ones are better, frankly) as long as the rest of the specs check out.

Also look for a truck with a towing mode. When selected it changes the transmission shift points so it remains in a lower gear longer to get better, smoother acceleration. Otherwise trucks will change gears at lower engine rpm’s for best fuel mileage at the expense of the towing experience.

You csn always do the same yourself with a manual transmission truck. You will also get the benefit of better engine braking on long downhill runs.

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Additionally, a weight distributing hitch can significantly improve towing with the Ram 1500. As I recall, the Rams at that trim level are coil-overs in the rear suspension which can really squat with the trailer on.

greys

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Honestly, no. I can feel the trailer is heavier with two horses but hauling isn’t easier or smoother necessarily. Either is fine for our Ram. When we are ready to replace, we will get another Ram 1500 Hemi.

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What Texarkana said. But in short:

  • Engine
  • Wheelbase
  • Drivetrain (2WD vs 4WD)
  • Axle ratio
  • Towing packages/upgrades (ie cooling systems and suspension)

I find Ford’s booklet to have better visuals on the differences for ANY truck (for example instead of listing by body style/bed length, they also tell you the actual wheelbase).

The window sticker should give you all these specs, and a little googling will give you the actual capacity for that exact truck - not accounting for aftermarket changes or additions like a camper shell. Also, fact check. Dealers and sellers will absolutely lie or pass on their own misunderstandings. A few thousand pounds towing capacity may not matter for the person hauling a boat 2x a year, but they ABSOLUTELY matter for hauling horses and more frequent use.

Also, we added a leaf to our 150’s rear springs and they make the ride SO much more stable. There are some aftermarket upgrades like that you can make to get a more comfortable ride on a truck, though you won’t add much by way of actual capacity.

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Echoing FiveStride’s post - the manufacturer booklets, which can be found online, Google “year manufacturer model towing capacity chart” and they are fairly easy to find, will be best at outlining which options or packages you need to get to the tow rating you want. It also makes it easy to compare between manufacturers and models. As far as finding one with the correct settings and options, it’s not overly difficult. I bought a used truck about two years ago and did a similar search. FWIW, the difference in tow capacity between a gas F250 and F150 was not significant in the year I was looking (2017-2018). I shopped on Autotrader and compared vehicles there after starting with the manufacturer charts. The charts let me know what year(s), make, model, and base level trim I needed to be looking for in order to get in the ballpark of correct specs. I bought from out of state so had the dealer send me photos of the door tag and window sticker so I could do my own research. Like everyone else says, don’t trust the dealer because they truly don’t know. As for the built in brake controller - when I was looking nearly all the trucks I was looking at had one. It seems most towing packages include the brake controller, which wasn’t always the case. But as Endless said, aftermarket brake controllers work just fine (sometimes better) and are not expensive or difficult to have installed. There are several aftermarket products that can smooth out the ride (Sumo springs, upgraded shocks, override springs, fancy shock absorbing hitches, etc), but nothing can ever increase your towing capacity.

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Don’t know if this is still done, but many years ago driving thru Wyoming this was fairly common sight on the roads.

For OP if considering a 2017 or 2018 RAM 2500. These vehicles have a new recall notice issued by Stellantis on November 27, 2024 for a “dangerous brake defect.”

This may not be the official title in the notice, since I only just read about it tonight on another site and dangerous brake defect was their headline for the story.

Notice is on NHTSA.gov

When I moved to Lynchburg, VA area in 2000, I saw it more than a handful of times. I had never in my life even heard of it before that.

You guys rock!

My first horse trailer (and I still have it) is a 2003 Exiss 3-horse slant gooseneck. I’ve pulled it with several different pickups, including a 1/2 ton, a 3/4 ton (gas) and a 1 ton diesel.

I will NEVER NEVER “under truck” myself again. Night and day difference between the 3/4 ton gas truck and the 1 ton diesel. It’s like I’m pulling air back there.

I would tell you to stick with the 2500, especially since that’s what you are used to.
Especially driving 6 hours with TWO horses in tow! I would never voluntarily do that with a 1/2 ton ever again.

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