I had that issue for a while, a bungee cord solved the problem
Sounds to me that you have isolated the problem to the plugs. Change them. Before you put the wires in the new plugs, harden the ends of eac wire with rosin cored solder. You can buy it in Radio Shack. Get the smallest size wire solder. It will not only make a better connection, but the whole rig will be much stronger, and longer lasting.
From Autozone, get some dielectric grease. They sell little disposable packets hanging on a peg near the register. Put a little dab on each of the hardened ends before tightening the screw. Only use a screwdriver that fits the screw head, and is only used for screws.
Put a little dab of the dielectric grease on each contact in the plugs.
If you have to use electrical tape anywhere, only use 3M 33+. Don’t stretch it more than you have to. Don’t snap it off at the end. Cut it cleanly with a sharp knife, keep your fingers off the stickum, and seal it completely down. This even works on rigging on a sailboat better than rigging tape for years. You may need to increase the diameter of the wire with this tape where the plug wants to clamp down on the wire entering the plug-it needs to be strong there.
If you do this all in a neat way, the plugs will be trouble free.
I always rewire any trailer when I get it. I use tinned copper marine wire. I never have trouble with trailer lights. I learned this back in the '60s with boat trailer lights. Fast and cheap, with copper coated steel, as any manufacturer I know of uses, will be trouble somewhere down the road. I don’t like trouble down the road-much less, on the road.
This thread was not a waste of time CS. Thank you all for posting. It’s very informative for debugging electrical stuff and the tips were useful for any car owner. I even googled and found a short youtube on how to check voltage with an electrical fluke.
You never know who else you’re helping with threads like this.
Thanks!
We had similar problems with a 2004 chevy 2500 HD, after searching everywhere we opened up the fuse block in the engine compartment and lifted it out, underneath was a jumble of mouse eaten wires that had no insulation left. Just a thought.
CSutton, you’re pretty darned rude there. Do you really think I would have wasted about 5 hours troubleshooting had I known the plug wasn’t staying tight? No one is that stupid.
For the rest of you, thanks for helping us. I will definitely be sharing Tom’s post with my other half who actually does the work.
100% wrong, there is a red trailer that appears if there is a fault, or the trailer plug is disconnected.
Owners manuals for 2008 F350s. You should find info here if it’s an integrated brake controller. (I think the integrated controllers only work with electric brakes).
Page 223;
The Ford TBC has only been verified to be compatible with
trailers having electric-actuated drum brakes (one to four axles)
and not hydraulic surge or electric-over-hydraulic types. It is the
responsibility of the customer to ensure that the trailer brakes are
adjusted appropriately, functioning normally and all electric
connections are properly made
We do have electric drum brakes. That was my first question to DH once I read the manual. I am now rather educated on how brakes function as a result.
