advice for choosing a farm horse

Any reasonable and well muscled horse can do the job, including doubling as a riding horse.

I thought you were looking at Welsh cobs a while back? If so, that would be the perfect breed for exactly what you want to do. Flashy enough for carriage work, but of a well built stature to do the farm work without blinking an eye. And they have loads more stamina than a cold blood, and are bred to trot the miles.

If you chose a draft please be aware they were bred to walk their work, not trot like the light breed. Drafts don’t have as much stamina as that of a light breed or cob, but they are steady workers and generally of good temprament.

You can flame me for this but…I’ve never found a good horse coming from an Amish background. They sell the bad ones, and keep the good ones to work them to death. Find a good breeder and buy your driving prospect there. You’ll be happier in the long run.

Serious Humor is fine too…

Warmheart, I tried to see Rosie’s reply to working, but was unable to get it to work.

LostFarmer–new sport, riding the tires sideway!!! Looks like so much fun!!!

This is a great thread–I am just wondering where the person who started it went?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by slc:
i want a draft horse,…
as stated earlier, will do some work with tractor, and some with horse…
there will be occasional hard work when a project comes up…QUOTE]

go back to rural heritage and research your pipe dream of a working horse a little more carefully. you could be setting yourself up for the biggest pita you’ve ever known and the horse up for a lot of pain and suffering. learn how to feed it properly. figure out before the fact that you can’t just work a draft horse hard when the work comes up. do you have time to keep a non riding horse properly fit? are you going to actually do that? make it and keep it fit even though you will only need it occasionally? to be honest your post comes across like the post of someone who wants a pet but has no idea about the upkeep and is in for a great big shock when the first little thing goes wrong or compromises their idyllic dream. buying a draft horse and expecting to treat it like a tractor is foolish, foolhardy and quite possibly could turn out to be cruel. honestly that post makes it sound like you are in possession of the same degree of ignorance as the man asking whether it was ok to feed his horses only on weekends. ignorance of horsecare is nothing to be ashamed of but it certainly is something to be remedied especially by those who profess a certain degree of education in all matters horse.

I’ve seen and/or had a number of smaller full drafts in my barn…i.e., under 16H, and some well under.

However, with regards to harness, while the leather is definately very heavy, I still find the synthetic fairly heavy. With regards to synthetics, I have a betathane harness, and would not get another one. I’d go biothane, but the betathane, while it looks nice, has a softer finish that doesn’t hold up well under hard work (as I’ve found out). I do like the ease of care with a synthetic. If one isn’t working hard, then its probably not as big of a deal. I like the looks of the new granite finish biothane.

With regards to collars, you do want to put collars on over the head if at all possible. Most collars have some sort of buckle or clip…but you prefer NOT to put them on by opening them if you can help it, simply because it breaks the throat down faster. That said, I have one that I simply cannot get the collar on without unbuckling it, but I know that I am adding to the wear and tear on the collar. (The right size collar to fit him to work simply will not go over his large head no matter how I try)
Collars, by the way, when hung up are always hung up upsidedown to help maintain their shape.

Finally, it is personal preference as to size of work animal. I, too, was going to keep a small (15.2H) Belgian for work here single, but found my team more versatile (and I can also use one or the other of the team with no problem). But some people like large, and some don’t. Most figure out how to deal with whatever they have.

LostFarmer–you’re safe as long as you stick to the Driving Forum…

An ass Yep, another ass on the farm and all your manure should be spread with no problems.

slc, Why don’t you go to http://www.ruralheritage.com and take a look at their classifieds. They have a draft/team swap meet. Most of these people are teamsters that have trained horses for sale. When I sold my warmbloods giving up my dreams of Dressage ( too many DQ’s and my health could not keep up), a boarder who frequents the Internet ads sent me an ad for this Belgian filly. What would I do with a young filly. Why drive of course ! Turns out she is not desirable for show, she’s a blonde and she still has her tail ( thank goodness) and she was young to boot. Though I must say, she is certainly not small but eats less than any of the other horses on the farm. So I made the deal with the owner, bought her for little $$ , and was able to send her off for training. She is still not three, yet a solid citizen in harness( good trainer ). I think that buying this horse is the same as buying any horse. It is out there, you just have to know where to look and when to turn your nose up. I think that the rural heritage site is your best answer. And of course, I am partial to my Belgian. Why Belgian? When I was researching Draft horses, Shire was the first choice. MR Heart is a Shire fan from way back but after a little research, I realized that I did not want the task of taking care of those feathers. We live in a boggy, muddy area and I feared terrible skin infections or having to constantly clip the feathers off. So consider the maintenance factor too. There are small drafts out there and they will be trained and in your price range, since everyone else wants a BIG one. Good Luck.

<BLOCKQUOTE class=“ip-ubbcode-quote”><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-title”>quote:</div><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-content”>Originally posted by Trakehner:
Fjords are expensive horses.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Wow Trakehner, I don’t know what Fjord prices are where you are, but I don’t consider them expensive horses. You can get a nicely trained horse who rides and drives single and pairs for $5K. I raise Fjords and can tell you that foal prices are not high either. Maybe I should move to your area of the state because that’s not the case in my area. My farm is holding a Fjord Foal Festival and Open House with 13 sales animals on the premises. Nothing is higher than $7,500 and that’s for a registered, evaluated, trained, and proven 13 year old mare.

Originally posted by Sparks5

<BLOCKQUOTE class=“ip-ubbcode-quote”><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-title”>quote:</div><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-content”> Um hunny, it sounds like your answer was solidified before you even began the thread. So why did you even bother? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

<BLOCKQUOTE class=“ip-ubbcode-quote”><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-title”>quote:</div><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-content”>this is about revenge </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
No. I’m pretty sure it’s about entertainment and good and well meant advice. If we all were after revenge or to be rid of you or whatever then we wouldn’t be recommending a tractor. We’d be joyous at the thought of you so busy with your draft on a minus 500 Ohio winter day trying to accomplish some dead simple task while nearly freezing your ass clean off that we’d never have mentioned the word tractor. We’d be telling you that tractors are bad, that the only way to really do anything on a farm is with a draft and that it’s dead easy and don’t listen to anyone who tells you otherwise.

Howz that runon sentence workin’ for you?

Hitch–yes, you did!

Yeah, you can eat it right down to the tail! (Ox-tail soup)…

How about the Gypsy Vanners? I know nothing about their prices, but they are being bred here in the states now and are about the size you are looking for. They are a draft but on the smallish side.

We see smallish Belgian at our driving shows quite often.

It seems to me that what you are looking for is a draft cross–not a warmblood, but something mostly draft. We don’t see a lot of those down here in Florida.

Haflingers are strong and come in 15+ hands. They aren;t all that expensive and there are breeders all over the place.

Gotta say that when its 15 degrees and the wind is blowing the John Deere is a welcome sight when you have to empty the spreader! Ohio winters are not much better than MI ones!

Or try DraftsForSale.com– You can choose pure or mixed breeds. There are plenty of good, driving, working horses for sale. They do have some Suffolk Punchs available (would be my personal choice).

If you need the “stuff” to go along with said draft horse, there’s DraftHorseStuff.com

OOOOKKKAAAYYY!!! I am all for learning new things and everyone needs a purpose. I think that we are just trying to be helpful. I still suggest the contacting of some experienced teamsters or loggers since there could be dangers that we ( including myself ) are totally unaware of. On some of the sites referred to you, they have information about seminars, clinics and schools for those that wish to learn the techniques.
Oh, BTW, living with two males that are udderly ( pun ) involved with motorsports racing, try getting some sort of interest or help can be somewhat of an issue. So, I feel your pain and desire to jump on that little spark. Again, good luck and let us know how it turns out. I’m sure you will have some humorous stories to tell.

but the sad thing is that I was serious, Stffy!

For what you want, I would be shopping in the broke/trained horse dept. I would go with a bit of age, 8 or up, been used a bit. For working farm horses you need to talk to farmers, hitch horse people. Some places to check are other driving people, horse auctions for names, the local elevator sells him feed, finding the draft horse clubs. Here in the Midwest, there are extensive networks of “heavy horse people” who do Plow Days, Show, Pulling horse events, Fairs, Wagon Train things. You just have to find a starting place. They all know each other to refer you around. Sometimes the events will be listed in your area local horse newspaper of coming events. Our Equine Times covers ALL horse activities sent in on their calendar for 4 states around.

Horse type sounds like you need a solid, medium body, classic western chunk already suggested. My grandpa used to get his chunks from ‘Out of the West, by Rail’, down in the freight yard. Ha Ha, not many like them anymore.
There are more chunks available, but not real inexpensive. Being marketed as the “heavy Hunter, or any other english discipline, Wamblood”. I am speaking of the half-draft crosses being bred everywhere. There are a LOT in our area, not cute enough to sell for riding. Sometimes look like a committee built them. Small bodies, large feet, legs, drafty heads. Big bodies, small feet, not great movement, rough gaited.

I suggest you buy such a horse broke, because the things you want to do, require a steady horse, practiced in working with equipment. You can easily get hurt with training drafts and machinery. They train in Pairs so solid horse holds down the scared one until it learns!! When the seller brags about horse being spreader broke, that means he should be able to do almost everything. Pulling and unloading with spreader is hard work, noisy, uncomfortable because they jerk around so with ground drive chain. Hitch and drive the horse attached to different equipment before taking him home.
I would want something around 15-16h, 1300-1600 pounds, big feet, big boned. My grandfather farmed with that size all his life, they were good workers, economical to feed, handled a good load, all the machinery. Tall horse is harder to harness, lifting that heavy leather. His smaller horses could always outpull much larger horses at the Fairs, until they would start to slip in the grass. He didn’t ask them for anymore try then. He never shod them except in winter, put a lot of miles on them.

Our local plow days have a real variety of breeds show up, often pictured in the newspaper. Usually all pairs though. Ponies, mixed breeds, to regular draft breeds. I would start asking with those kind of horse users, doing what you want to horse to do.

John Hammond in New Hampshire breeds both Cleveland Bays and Suffolks, does crosses also. Very nice looking young horses, quiet, kindly, solid bodied. He might be a good connection to start with for heavy horses. I am not sure where you are located or who could help you.

There are good and poor Amish, just like anyone else, but easy targets. I know a number of very good Amish people, do great jobs with horses, sell and train quality animals. Kind of like picking on black haired people, they are not all the same, just all black haired.

<BLOCKQUOTE class=“ip-ubbcode-quote”><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-title”>quote:</div><div class=“ip-ubbcode-quote-content”>Originally posted by slc:
we’d like to get a farm horse that can pull a cart on the road, manure spreader, mower and possibly some other implements on the farm. does anyone have some suggestions about breed, age, sources to find farm horses, etc. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I know this is pointless, BUT I was going to say Sufolk Punch as well! Awesome Breed, Small Solid, Cute And serious workers with a lovely temperment. Rural Heritage has done segments on them and US breeders on RFD.
Knowing full well my answer will be poo pooed

Slc, go find your self a John Deere. You can find them used(in your terms cheap), leave them out in the pasture forever and then work the crap out of them when you feel like it. If they break, then you can leave them sit because you won;t want to pay the vet bill! Again that cheap factor you have been so vocal about.