Best cart for retraining nervous pony

[CHT]

Over a year ago I bought a Shetland pony sight unseen. I know she drove as there were plenty of pictures of her driving.

Once she got here, it was apparent she needed some TLC. Her teeth featured the worst wave mouth our vet had ever seen, and her hooves were pretty bad. She was also quite terrified and angry with adults. She would both bolt and bite. (My farrier was thrilled with my purchase). She foundered on and off for a large portion of last year, but her xrays are ok.

Fast forward to last summer, and I managed to purchase a cart for the pony. (I had been ground driving her successfully). But she was so terrified of the two wheeled cart that she literally stopped breathing. I tried leading her while I pulled it (with the shafts held high), but that was way too exhausting for me.

I did get her pulling a bag of plastic bottles around the arena and field.

More recently, I bought a calf sled, and at first led her with her pulling it (and freaking out the horses in the paddocks…sigh), and was once able to have her pull the sled with me in it (sitting on a hay bale) for a short trip. Unfortunately the snow melted before I was able to get out a second time.

The mare seems to be fine pulling. She has no hesitancy about putting her weight into it, although she does scoot forward the first time she feels the weight.

I am wondering if a small four wheeled vehicle might be a better option for pony and I? Or a lighter two wheeled vehicle? Or a snow machine so I can use the calf sled more?

I am also quite stiff in my mobility, so needs to be easy in and out.

[RMJacobs]

I would be concerned that this pony might never be reliable pulling a vehicle.

I have limited mobility as well, and would not risk trying to retrain a pony with such extreme reactions.

I’m sorry, I’m sure that’s not what you want to hear. Maybe someone else who responds will be more optimistic.

Rebecca

[goodhors]

Sure can’t advise a 4-wheeler, they tip much easier than 2-wheelers if she should spook or jump when hitched. They jacknife in a heartbeat. How obedient is she to voice commands? I would probably use the sled on bare ground, in the ring until she styles better. Or drag a smaller tire fitting her size. You are not going for weight, but a steady drag all the time. Friction can still make tire dragging a real job in the various gaits.

Have you tried her dragging something resembling shafts yet? They will feel stiffer, a little more constricting than just traces in pulling. Could help her show if she is really afraid of shaft of cart, before hooking her. She may have been hurt between driving photos and you buying her, making her act spooky now.

Is she wearing a blinder bridle? Some horses have a real need to see what is going on around them, you, before you can move them on to blinders. Blinkers are to prevent equine reading body signals, NOT to hide equipment behind them. They can still hear it! We want them knowing about equipment, but still not reacting to it in the open bridle first. We have one who is fine in half cup blinder, but acts lIke he never drove in full square or round blinkers. He wants to see around himself and then nothing bothers him. Too helpful to ever go in an open bridle! Ha ha

[CHT]

I am retraining her without the blinders. I know she was always worked with them before, so seeing the stuff behind her surprised her, but I feel safer without them. This was something I was wondering about though: if better to retrain with, or without.

I haven’t had her drag anything with shafts yet, but have played with broomstick shafts as the shafts coming down was a concern of hers. I don’t know how to make something with shafts for her to drag. Ideas?

She has a good vocal whoa and “walk on”. Whoa has been my main priority though.

I am having trouble imagining why a 4 wheeler would flip easier. The one I am considering has little wheels and just seems more stable. Not saying you are wrong, just saying it is hard for me to conceptualize.

Once we have grass, pulling the calf sled outside will possibly work. I think there is too much friction on the wet grass/mud. Not sure about our indoor arena…I should see how well it pulls in there. I guess I could line drive her from behind the sled? Outside I was leading and then I got on the sled. She is pretty trusting with me leading now, in general.

[BUSY]

Bridle with blinders for safety !

A knowledgeable assistant !

Drag tire effortlessly and quietly EVERYWHERE before being hitched !

A heavier than lighter two wheel educating cart !

Please be careful - you are not describing a safe driving event !

• and IF AND WHEN you are working your pony alone - a safety line should be added in case of trouble • IMHO

Honestly, if you are not skilled in this driving training perhaps send the pony to a professional … who can get the pony driving safely and get you driving the pony safely in adjusted harness and appropriate vehicle.

[2tempe]

Ditto The above post ^^ I was told years ago that 2 wheel is better for training/retraining as it can pivot of the horse turns sharply. a 4 wheel cannot. I did not buy 4 wheel until my mare had driven for a couple years.

Cant opine re the blinders; I have always assumed they were there for a reason and would never have thought to drive w/out.

[goodhors]

We alternate between open and blinder bridle in long lining, dragging work. Horse gets used to less vision, not a sudden change when you quit using the open bridle once you get the cart involved and hitched. Blinders are for preventing pony reading your body language in the routines of hitching, getting in cart, while being driven, so she “can’t help you” by guessing the next step needed. No one wants a self driving equine out in front!!

I would do any ground driving from the side, not dorectly behind her. Most folks can’t walk fast enough to prevent hanging on the reins and mouth. From the side you can see the problem, have horse “take a lap” around you so you can get caught up again.

The deal with 4-wheelers is the hinge point of front axle. Depending on carriage design, front wheels will rub body side or pass under body, in turning. This creates problems. Wheel rubbing can bind up. Stop turning, yet animal is still going and can force the vehicle to flip. Happens even walking. Wheels under carriage body reduces that stability you mentioned with only two rear wheels stable, front wheels at 90 or more degrees to rear wheels. Like the kids red wagon or a tricycle with front wheels turned for corners, there is noting holding the front of vehicle stable to the sides, so it easily tips over.

This is where the more experienced Driving horse let’s you make wider corners, stop horse to step him only, to straighten, then move forward or continue the tun at a bigger angle. Horse does not get upset with modifications. Green horses are not often so accommodating about small adjustments when they want to go forward. 2-wheel vehicles follow the horse in the same line. No hinge in the horse-vehicle combination to bend or get in trouble on turns.

For fake shafts, we use saplings for dragging. You want them long. Tip at horse shoulder point, heel ends past her rump and longest stretch of hind leg by at least 2 feet. Saplings are readily available, springy green wood gives if stopped on. Easy to get another if it breaks. I DO NOT recommend PVC pipe at all, breaks fairly easily into very sharp pieces. Adds a echo while dragging because it is hollow, too light weight.

You CANNOT back while dragging shafts, they dig into the ground. Do not ever ask horse to back while dragging shafts.

[cayuse]

I have welsh pony that sounds similar to this. He ground drives calmly and will pull me in a rigged up sled in the snow. I have used him to pull the manure tubs to the pile in the winter and he does this happily. However he can not tolerate shafts or the feeling of being “confined” in between the shafts. I’m not sure which it is, maybe a combination of the two. He will pull a drag made with PVC pipes OK and we have done the “broomsticks” through the shaft carriers “bumping” his sides and he is fine with it. But putting him to the cart is a no go. He has panicked and nearly flipped the cart when it was attempted to hitch him several times. I decided he was not safe to continue to try and work with which was a hard desicion as I put a lot of time and effort into working with him. He just could not adjust. He is a lovely pony other than that and I still own him.
I am with the others who think this pony might not be safe or compatible to driving.

[2tempe]

OP - I see why you would find this interesting, but the fact that it is so light combined with the fact that the center of gravity looks high to me would make it a “no go”. (see the pic w/ the person driving) At least until she is a confirmed driving pony.

[luvmyhackney]

What does the pony do with Blinkers. Just because you feel more comfortable with it doesn’t mean the pony does. Mine has a panic attack without blinkers she driving. I can long line and ride without but he gets prefers driving with.

[CHT]

@luvmyhackney

What does the pony do with Blinkers. Just because you feel more comfortable with it doesn’t mean the pony does. Mine has a panic attack without blinkers she driving. I can long line and ride without but he gets prefers driving with.

I have ground driven here with the blinkers, but that is all. I just didn’t like how they fit her fuzzy face so started working without them. I am not sure she cares either way, although I assume that is why she scoots the first time with the sled…she can actually see it.

[CHT]

@2tempe

OP - I see why you would find this interesting, but the fact that it is so light combined with the fact that the center of gravity looks high to me would make it a “no go”. (see the pic w/ the person driving) At least until she is a confirmed driving pony.

is there a cart on that site you would recommend? They are local to me (more or less).

[Zu_Zu]

[B]Blinkers are for safety when driving a HITCHED horse or pony -

1. For ensuring’forward’ focus
2. To prevent distraction
3. To PREVENT THE HORSE OR PONY FROM BEING STARTLED FROM SEEING THINGS BEHIND IT AND BOLTING !

• Blinkers = power steering and power brakes [/B]

Yes, working without blinkers is fine - long/ lining but when the animal is HITCHED the use of a blinkered bridle or blinker hood over an open bridle provides a safer drive ~ IMHO.

Driving is a wonderful way to enjoy a horse or pony and yourself
but
a safe drive requires
experience / horse and driver and ‘helper’
well adjusted harness
and attention to detail when ‘hooking’ and unhitching as well.

• BE SMART ! BE SAFE ! ENJOY !

[Zu_Zu]

Adding - safe drive also requires a safe track / environment . IMHO

[2tempe]

@CHT

is there a cart on that site you would recommend? They are local to me (more or less).

There is a thread that ran back in January titled “Picking the right cart”. It is near the bottom of the first page of driving threads. It has lots of info, some links and some suggestions as to where to look for used vehicles. I gave up driving a while ago, so I’m not a good source.

Be sure to read the parts re metal fatigue weld not holding, etc on the lighter vehicles.

[CHT]

What about a HyperBike type pony vehicle?
.
My steel cart is in good shape weld wise, just needs a new back rest. Husband is a weld & coatings inspector by trade. I just want something easier handle for me in the schooling part.

[appybeads]

I wouldn’t get a hyperbike with your pony’s background. The horse needs to be a steady eddy and have the best manners. They are hard to get in and out of if you have issues. I have arthritis and sold my bike because I couldn’t get in and out of it if I had to in an emergency. I would just long line and ground drive in blinders until there is not one nervous twitch from your pony. Even the little guys can hurt you. Find someone to help. Sometimes horses just don’t forget the bad experiences and don’t make for a safe driving partner. JMHO.

[CHT]

I drove pony in the indoor arena with the calf sled yesterday. I don’t know why I hadn’t thought of using it in the indoor before, but not having the looky lou big horses likely helped, and it pulls well over the rubber crumb. I first led her with the cat as an occasional passenger, and the decided to hop in. Pony drove well: we just did a lap to the left, across the diagonal and then a loop to the right. No sign of nerves (neck stayed level and breathing stayed quiet)

Pony was good. I didn’t have the blinders on as I hadn’t planned to actually drive her. Listened well to whoa, stayed straight through the turns and kept a steady walk. She definitely knows what she is doing skills wise.

Once we dig out of the foot of wet snow we have, I will go out back to get some saplings to add fake shafts to the sled.

I am still unsure what our first “schooling” cart should look like, although maybe the next time I try, the pony will be ok with my steel cart…I would just like something easier for me to work with I guess…and I think I like being both low, and close to her.

[CHT]

@appybeads

I wouldn’t get a hyperbike with your pony’s background. The horse needs to be a steady eddy and have the best manners. They are hard to get in and out of if you have issues… JMHO.

Interesting. I wish there was one around here to sit on.

Can you further explain why that type of cart needs a steadier pony? I seem to have a very poor grasp of the physics of ponies and carts!

[2tempe]

OP - You mentioned that you bought pony sight unseen and with some issues. I’m wondering if, among other things, the pony may have had some kind of driving accident, and thus the reaction to the shafts coming down. I’m also wondering if you would get the same reaction with blinders on the pony. Dunno, just some thoughts. But I’d sure be comfortable with pony accepting shafts before hooking up. Good luck.