Best Practices for Restarting an OTTB

[Texarkana]

@endlessclimb

You’ll never learn “how” to do this if you don’t do it. Why don’t you take over the starting blocks with the over-arching eye of a trainer or coach? TBs really aren’t that hard, IME. They’re broke, they’ve seen a bunch, sure they’re lacking in areas but what’s to say that you can’t do the work yourself? If you hit a wall, have the trainer take over for a few sessions and then pick up the torch again. Unless you’re a total yahoo, you can’t do much that is going to permanently mess the horse up. You might start down a “wrong” path, trainer sees it, pulls you back and puts you on the “right” path.

I agree with this. I think a lot of people go into TBs with weird phobias or neuroses. They’re just horses. Horses who have done and seen a lot in a very short time. Too often people don’t give them credit for that.

But TBs also aren’t as forgiving of subpar husbandry as some other breeds. So if you have a crummy farrier, crummy nutrition plan, and a stressful living/working situation, there is a fair chance problems will develop. Good news is there are LOTS of people who can help you if that happens.

So bottom line: give them a good life and you can always get help if you are in over your head.

[NancyM]

Great advice here already. I’ll just add (and I don’t know if I’ve missed this already mentioned by someone)… a racehorse expects to use the rider’s hand to balance ON. They expect to take a “hold” on the rider’s hands. They pull against that “hold”. They gallop under that “hold”. It makes them into a “coiled spring”. When asked for full speed, in a time workout or race, the “hold” is lessened, not fully released until full extension is required… down the lane to the wire. Also, the rider has very little “leg” to use on the horse. Stirrups are usually shorter than with non race riding, vary from “short” to “very short”. The horse is cued forward with a chirp from the rider, or the stick. When being broke to ride, the rider does more use leg cues as a normal riding horse, but once at the track, not so much. So, though the horse has plenty of “forward” under many circumstances, he is not well accustomed to moving off leg pressure. This usually has to be “re-taught”. And if you pick up any speed, he will try to take hold of the bit and tow you. This is why some people say about riding OTTBs, that if you pull on the reins, they go faster- it’s not exactly true, but it can feel like it. Some hit the show ring without ever being “rebalanced” correctly, thus the issues that some people have with riding an OTTB. Rebalance the horse first, early in the re-schooling process… that is, teach him to engage and use his hind end, and not balance on your hand. Teach him about subtle leg cues. Don’t let him use your hand to balance ON. He must carry himself, not lean on your hand. If you don’t teach him these things, he will remain a racehorse.
Other than that, it’s just a matter of a simple re-breaking job. Showing the horse what you want him to do for you, getting to know each other, interacting together. Some if it will be new to him, some of it will be new to you. Either you work it out successfully between the two of you, or you don’t and it’s a disaster.
Depending on where he comes from, he may or may not need some time to “let down” off the track. Then you start getting to know each other, grooming and ground work. Find out if there are any holes in his training that you need to fill for him. Lunging, walk, trot, canter (NO side reins- he will lean on those). Work on relaxation in his work, suppleness, and response to your cues. Form a partnership. Become friends. If you can’t do this yourself… well… then he will form the relationship with someone else, not you. He may be able to extend what he learns from someone else to form a similar relationship with you, later. That’s often what horses have to do. BUT, I agree that it is a “learn by doing” sorta thing, and it ain’t all that difficult. A horse isn’t a “machine”, he can’t be “programmed” by someone else, then you get on and press the buttons. It’s always a relationship, a mutual understanding (if it’s any good). JMHO. Learn how to do this, it’s part of the joy of owning an OTTB. Good luck.

[Jealoushe]

@MNewbie

I thought about sending the new TB to a colt-starter,

Don’t do this. At least not with most starters who use force to train and violence.

TBs have a much better time when one person takes them on. One person who knows and understands TBs and has PATIENCE.

I have restarted a few OTTBS succesfully. Currently I have 4, 2 who event (Training/Novice), one who does dressage (2nd schooling 3rd) and one who is still green who will event.

First and foremost is that an OTTB is not a great choice for your first training project. While you may find a diamond who is easy, majority of them will have issues here and there that you will need to be able to work through. If you have a good trainer that is a start but you also must be capable. You also have to have little nerves, because throughout training there will be times where your stickability is tested.

My advice to people when asked;

• I’m a big fan of 6 months minimum downtime. A lot of people are in a rush but long term your horse will be mentally and physically sounder if you let them truly REST for that time.
  -Ensure your trainer is familiar and has trained TBs successfully
  -Do not buy straight from the track, buy from a restarter who has already assessed the horse
  -A track horse is already trained, so remember you are truly retraining them. They know things just in a different manor. Retraining takes a lot longer than a blank slate. Think of yourself learning a new skill vs ridding yourself of a bad habit
• TBs need hay and most need grain. They need LOTS and LOTS of hay. The less fancy supplements the better. The more quality hay the better.
• Many TBS need shoes, if you don’t want to have a horse shod look into other breeds.
• Don’t skip out a full oral exam on the head with x rays once you purchase one. Do this from the start so you know what you are working with
• A saddle, bridle and bit that fits is important.
  -OTTBs often struggle with the canter. Make sure when starting you take the time to build strength and balance on the luynge (with no gadgets, I use a rope halter) This helps them figure things out and also build strength.
• Start with lots and lots of groundwork
• Never use force
• A TB will give you their heart, never taske advantage of that and rush them in their work simply because they say yes. This can lead to fear and tension down the road.

Most importantly, have all the time in the world. The slower you go, the faster you get there.

[chestnutmarebeware]

I haven’t had the kind of injury-related bleeding issue the poster refers to in any of my TBs either. If they injure themselves, it’s not a little cut, it’s a full-on “I fell onto a sharp stick on my first day in a new red-clay-based pasture after a rainfall that poked a hole straight through my scapula and had to be transported to the vet hospital for emergency stick and bone-fragment removal”. Or, “I somehow got a scratch on my cornea and good luck trying to get those drops and ointment in there!”.

I can remember only one other wound that was bleeding and needed the vet to evaluate (I concede there may have been one or two other incidents that I can’t recall over the years), but when my TBs come in with marks on them, the hair may be missing from a squabble over a hay pile, but there’s never any bleeding.

In fact, it’s a bit ironic—I have a full-size tote that serves as my horsey first aid kit with every possible treatment item included in it, and other than the bandage scissors, thermometer and vetwrap, I don’t think I’ve used any of it, ever.

[chestnutmarebeware]

And two things they probably won’t know until you teach them: To stand while being mounted, and how to deal with cross ties.

[Jealoushe]

yes!

Good reminder, if they struggle at first with cross ties, tying them in their stall when you tack up helps a lot.

[Go_Fish]

Keep an eye out for downhill conformation on OTTBs. Many also have long, sloping pasterns, with front hooves in front of the bony column. Some are high-hocked. Underslung heels can be addressed, but are very, very difficult to correct. A good, reliable farrier is a must.

[Synthesis]

They are the greyhounds of the horse world. There’s always a nick/cut/abrasion somewhere

[chestnutmarebeware]

Agreed! But they don’t bleed from all of those. Usually it’s just some missing hair or a patch of raw skin.

Now just try using a soft rubber curry on their muddy belly! Armageddon!

[MapleBreeze]

Yes, that’s what I meant.
I was thinking about this thread this morning and im pretty certain between feed and shoes they cost about $100-$200 more per month than a warmblood or air fern like horse.

[Jealoushe]

lucky you…just one of mine has; cut her artery in her pastern on a bot knife (talk about blood, entire wash stalls fuil), sliced a chunk of her chin off, and most notably severed her tongue almost in half to the point it was attached by a thin strip of skin lol

Her sister, lacerated her hindquarters when I first got her and the vet had to use cow needles to suture her because her hide was so thick! She said it was the toughest horse hide she had ever dealt with LOL She must be the rare thick skinned TB

[Amy3996]

So much good advice here already. I purchased my first TB in December of 2020 after having a packer of a senior warmblood for the previous five years. What a rollercoaster it has been.

He was 5 when I bought him. We’ve worked through the common issues - ulcers, feet, etc. Weight can come and go with seasons, workload, health issues, but also just as they’re growing and changing and developing physically. It’s common to see posters here and elsewhere say that their 3,4,5 yo TB can’t or won’t gain weight and muscle the way they want them to. Often, there is some sort of physical cause to it. Sometimes, though, it’s good to remember that they are the equivalent of a gangly teenager. Growth spurts can and do make everything look wonky. They can eat you out of house and home and still be scrawny. Bulking up and filling out comes with age. The difference in physical maturity between 5 and 7 was enormous for my guy.

I will also say, be prepared to change what isn’t working. That can go for any aspect of their care and management - feed, farrier, saddle, boarding situation, etc. I moved barns in late 2021 after a year of struggling with my TB, and it seems to have done him a world of good. On paper, everything seemed perfectly fine at the old barn (truly free choice hay, ample turnout, quality feed, etc). Whatever it was, something just wasn’t working for him there. He has really blossomed at the new barn after a year of struggling at the old place. As much as I loved my old farm (I’d been there 5 years), making the switch was the best thing I could’ve done for this particular horse.

I was not at all sure I was capable of taking on an OTTB. It’s been a challenge, but I’ve grown more as a horseman and a rider in the last two years than in any other phase of my equestrian life.

Trust your own abilities, know your limits, and don’t be afraid to ask for help.

[chestnutmarebeware]

Don’t feel bad! I get all the gas colic vet calls with mine instead! Weather change? Time for a stomach ache!

I give Banamine paste immediately, but always have the vet come out ASAP. So between the IV Banamine, farm call (usually after hours), and sedation to check for impaction or torsion (the girls don’t like human hands up where the sun don’t shine! ) it’s easily a $300–400 bill each time.

I could wait and see, but I don’t fool around with colic and the barn staff know to call the vet first, and then notify me. I told them when I move in that I would never be mad about a quesionable vet bill, so call the vet first and get them out and I’ll pay whatever the bill is. I’d rather have regular unnecessary vet bills than worry for hours that it’s serious!

[AnastasiaBeaverhousen]

Always remember and never forget
Thoroughbreds have an over developed sense of injustice.
If they think they are being treated unfairly they will protest loudly and with action.
However, once you’ve gotten their trust they will try their hearts out for you .

Be flexible in your training . Every horse is different.

And whatever you do. Don’t pick a fight with them.
They.do.not.back.down.

[conniemary]

@MapleBreeze

And if the wind blows the wrong way they will get a cut or magically scrape themselves on something random and bleed.

I see you’ve met my TB.

[LilyandBaron]

Love reading this thread! I was fortunate to work at a top sales barn and ride over 200 OTTBs. Now, the barn owner knew how to pick the BEST brains and had connections, so I saw the best of the best TBs that were sold to BNTs as hunter/jumpers. But I was riding to sell…. I then bought my own OTTB mare to sell, but yeah, I’ve owned her 18 years now:). I just got my second OTTB.

As some have alluded, you can very quickly wtc around on an OTTB but to really progress for dressage, I think you need to take the time to re-lay the foundation. Rule out physical issues - ulcers, body pain, etc. Then they need to learn those bottom of the pyramid things - relaxation and rhythm, but without hanging on the bit. Go slow to go fast, for sure. The sales barn ride vs. the hopefully forever personal horse ride is a bit different! They need to give you their back/body and you have to not let them cheat by leaning on the bit - leaning isn’t actually the contact and connection you’ll want. It can “look” like it (sales!), but it’s really not. I also feel like you’d be better off staying involved. Getting a “real” dressage trainer is kind of a waste if done too early - if you need help, for sure get it, but I find taking the time early on to form a relationship with them really pays dividends. I am definitely a TB person - I adore them!!! Enjoy the journey!

[J-Lu]

I’ve restarted OTTBs, and agree with most posts.

To retrain to dressage, be patient with quirks like not wanting to be bridled (ears pulled to the starting gate), and the whole idea of contact but not bearing down on contact, which is what racers are taught. You have to explain “thank, that’s nice, but that’s not what we’re now going to do moving forward”. Be kind in this process. It is a process.

[endlessclimb]

@J-Lu

quirks like not wanting to be bridled (ears pulled to the starting gate)

I have worked with many OTTBs and spent some time working at the track and I have never ever heard or seen ear pulling or ear twitching to get a horse in the gate. Who told you this?

OP stuff like ^^ this is how OTTBs get ridiculous labels slapped on them. Someone has an OTTB that is sensitive to bridling (which is probably because the new person does it different than what happened at the track, the horse has an ouchy mouth due to no dental work, the horse has aural plaques, etc etc - a million valid reasons why), and then someone who has never spent a day on the backside makes up some cockamamey reason why the horse acts that way.

Also, one of the reasons why TBs bear down to start is they flat out do not have the strength to hold themselves up yet. Totally different set of muscles. So saying “we aren’t going to do that moving forward” is a load of hooey. You need to spend all your time building strength and getting the horse fit physically and mentally for a totally different job. If he starts to bear down, consider that he’s not fit enough to hold himself up and give him a walk break, or finish up for the day.

I’d say that’s the #1 mistake. Everyone has an agenda and a timeframe - that doesn’t work with a TB. It will take as long as it takes.

[Obsidian_Fire]

endlessclimb, “stuff happens”. There are all kinds of tracks…and trainers… just sayin’. My own OTTB has some very strange quirks and ‘you will NOT’ responses that I guarantee came about by somebody somewhere doing exactly the sort of thing J-Lu mentions.

I do agree tho that they get ridiculous labels slapped on them.

[Texarkana]

A lot of incorrect generalizations get tossed around regarding “what happens on the track.”

Have I seen an asst starter grab an ear? Absolutely. Is it the norm? No, not at all. So saying “all TBs are headshy because their ears were grabbed” would be wrong (no one actually said that).

I’d just recommend people be careful with generalizations of what does or does not happen.

Some people without racing experience (not necessarily on this thread) assume the horses are frequently mishandled or abused, and that is just not true. There are video cameras on you everywhere in racing. Not just ubiquitous cell phones and security cams, but every single race is internationally broadcast for simulcast. Plus the majority of the horses all live and train together in the same space year round. Someone resorting to abusive handling methods is going to be seen more often than not. Sure, stuff can always happen out of sight or in a bad moment, but it’s not like other horse discliplines where most of your training is done at home in private.

I’m being a little hypocritical as I say “don’t make generalizations” as I do it myself, but in my experience working on both ends of the business, any the “abuse” more frequently comes in the form of bad horsemanship (like cutting corners or just not knowing a better way to do something or when to quit) and over-reliance on pharmaceuticals.