buying/owning first horse tips/tricks/words of wisdom/etc

[DaniW]

To build on my advice, I bought my last horse on a whim because I thought I would just sell her if she didn’t grow ( didn’t grow) or couldn’t do what I wanted ( is 10 years before I could ride alone on trails what I wanted) ( or too easily distracted to go far in dressage nevermind she could do canter pirrouettes). But when faced with actually selling my little girl with a curl I couldn’t as I couldn’t take a chance of her hurting someone or ending up at the killers.

So when I picked my new horse I decided that I was going to keep this horse forever and I wanted a nice temperament, a relaxed attitude and soundness and I would let everything else be secondary . If my new horse couldn’t do what I wanted I would settle for a trail horse and lower level dressage and i made my peace with that. I took a year and I found a great horse .

[SharonA]

Ohhhh, I could go on and on about the stereotypes of mares vs. geldings…

OP, buy the individual horse, not the stereotype. If it’s a great mare, get her. If it’s a great gelding — not that this is possible – get him.

[seabreeze]

A couple of things come to mind:

1. Based on what you want to do (hunting, hunter paces, etc.), find a way to try the horse doing that job. In other words, don’t base your purchase decision based on riding that horse in the ring on the flat and over some jumps set up inside. Some experienced hunt horses might feel extremely lazy and safe inside, but you need to feel comfortable on them when they “open up” outside. They might very well still be safe, but you need to feel comfortable. So try to ride the horse in the context of the job you want it to do.

2. Before you buy, “spend” your monthly horse budget for three or four months to see if you can realistically afford the expense. Perhaps you can ask your trainer for a list of every possible expense you are likely to incur, and “spend” that money into a savings account where you will just let it sit. How is it to not have that money? If you can live without it and/or don’t miss other things you might have to sacrifice due to the new expenses, great! Here are some things you might consider including in your budget outside of basic board, farrier, etc.: hauling fees to go to hunts or hunter paces; training rides for when you might go out of town if you don’t want your horse to sit; additional hay or dietary supplements that might not be included in board; entry fees or club fees; fly spray, medications, veterinary maintenance (esp. with an older horse); replacing or repairing a torn blanket; cost of clippers or clipper maintenance if you’re clipping yourself or the cost of paying for clipping; a monthly tack budget (truly, you will always need something, even when you’ve owned horses for 30 years); the cost of fuel for increased trips to the barn…

Okay, you get the idea!

Best wishes!

[2DogsFarm]

OK:
People hunt on borrowed horses all the time - check the Hunting forum.
Of course, you need to be able to prove your skill at riding before anyone will loan a horse for that. You would need to be comfortable at least cantering with the hilltoppers.
As for trailriding, maybe times have changed (very likely in the almost 30yrs) but I did several trailrides with a group from the stable I took lessons at. On their horses.

I still recommend riding a variety for at least another year - use the time to put aside the monies you calculate you’d spend on owning & see how it impacts your lifestyle*.
*agreeing here with seabreeze

Maybe lease a favorite school horse?

I’m really not trying to rain on your parade, but owning is a whole different ballgame than leasing or owning any other kind of pet.
Especially in this economy, selling a horse is not like rehoming a cat or dog.
Unless your pockets are deep, you need to look at every horse as permanently yours, not just a stepping stone.
That is one reason so many here have suggested making sure the horse you buy will do what you want.

You sound determined, keep riding!

[chicamux]

Do not buy the horse from or thru a horse “Professional”. Yes, there are professionals who are honest but the horse will most likely cost you more and because the Pro needs the sales to make a living there are just way to many iffy things that can be going on.

Be sure your trainer doesn’t have something to gain from pushing you towards a certain horse. Like, they really need more lesson horses but really want to just use boarder horses instead of buying the horses themselves.

Or, they are getting a percentage of the sale from the seller or seller’s Pro.

Or, the horse they suggest is one that they can make money from because it will need additional training, extra lessons, etc.

chicamuxen

[red_mares]

Based on the criteria here, I should have never bought a horse.

At the time I’d had a relatively small amount of formal lessons, but had been riding on off for years.

I had no boarding barn identified, no trainer available, no lessons (in my preferred discipline) available, & no clue about local farriers.

I was in the Navy, so I was in for a month, out for a month; but at least I wasn’t moving for another 3 years.

However, I was tired of the only horses available being h/j things (said with plenty of disdain ). So having my own was the best option. I wouldn’t undo the decision for anything.

Don’t rush into this, but don’t wait for things to be 100% perfect either.

The Number 1, most important thing to remember: Most trainers are crooks. It is a lesson I learned at a young age, listening to tales of horsemen fleecing one another. It’s a sweeping generalization, but one made from years of experience (mine & others).

Respect your trainer’s knowledge, but don’t trust him with your wallet.

[PoohLP]

You may in your travels encounter a horse that seems perfect. When you do, ask, “How many days a week and how many times per day is Mr. Perfect worked?” When they give you an answer, follow with “how many of those are pro rides?” If the answer is more times per week and more pro rides than you can do/afford, go to the next horse.

Why is this important? There are plenty of horses that are “perfect” when they are worked 5-6 times per week with a couple pro rides to keep their brains straight but as soon as you drop down to 2-3 times per week or eliminate the pro ride, they become a different horse.

The moral of the story is that if you want a horse you can hack lightly twice a week, not pay for training rides and then take to a show or hunt and be sound, safe and sane for a relative beginner, buy a horse that is doing exactly that. They are harder to find and may cost a little more but they exist.

When you do these calculations, be realistic about how often you will be able to get out to ride. Assuming you have a fill time job, getting out to ride five days a week is HARD. Paying for training rides is expensive. I saw you have a plan to have a part lessor, which may help, but have a plan for what you will do to make up the extra rides (and money) when that situation ends.

[PoohLP]

[QUOTE=SharonA;7675858]
Ohhhh, I could go on and on about the stereotypes of mares vs. geldings…

OP, buy the individual horse, not the stereotype. If it’s a great mare, get her. If it’s a great gelding — not that this is possible – get him.[/QUOTE]

The best, most willing to work horse I ever had was a Connemara pony mare. I would buy one again in a heart beat. Ignore the mare/gelding hype. Buy the horse.

Often, I think what people call “marish behavior” is actually holes in training. Yes, there are some mares that have serious hormonal issues related to their heat cycles, but many (probably most!) don’t.

[spotted_draft_x_fill]

[QUOTE=PoohLP;7676374]
The best, most willing to work horse I ever had was a Connemara pony mare. I would buy one again in a heart beat. Ignore the mare/gelding hype. Buy the horse.

Often, I think what people call “marish behavior” is actually holes in training. Yes, there are some mares that have serious hormonal issues related to their heat cycles, but many (probably most!) don’t.[/QUOTE]

yep my mare is a very dominant mare but I can work with her during her cycles and her marish behaviour. She learned from the first time she started to cycle, that around me and while we’re working she’s not to act like a boss mare. She can be easily stopped with voice commands and hand signals. Yes I ride her when she’s in heat too.

[Sparrowette]

Lots of good information here. I’d like to add, when you go looking, be VERY AWARE of what they are putting on the horse in the way of tack and especially bitting. I didn’t look closely at the bit the seller put on maresey when I was trying her out and had brought two cowboy friends out to look at her with me. I was in lessons at the time, but instructor couldn’t make the trip (a couple hours drive from her house and she had lessons to do).

I assumed seller had put a regular snaffle on. It looked normal from the outside. I got on and started to try to feel her mouth and cowboys started yelling at me to stop, so I did. After the ride, I looked at her bit. It was the meanest looking mouthpiece for a snaffle I have ever seen. It must have been some custom thing because I’ve never seen another like it, and I’ve looked. Copper, broken like a regular snaffle and absolutely POINTY SQUARE over her bars. I did buy her and now she much prefers a french link.

As an aside: For a long time, she was very hyper, but has really settled down mentally now. As an example - First time Dr. saw her was for lameness exam (Fool I was - no PPE) and he had to tranq her a couple of times to get her to where he could work with her and get the radiographs. She was all over the place! He came over for her shots and coggins the other day and none of that was necessary. She took all those needles and exam stuff like a big girl.

[Sparrowette]

[QUOTE=PoohLP;7676374]
(…) Often, I think what people call “marish behavior” is actually holes in training. Yes, there are some mares that have serious hormonal issues related to their heat cycles, but many (probably most!) don’t.[/QUOTE]

^^^ This.

One thing I’ve noticed, is that men, especially, will not stand for misbehavior in a stud, but will make excuses for mares.

HE must behave. SHE’s on the rag. So they let her misbehave and then fault her for it. Sheesh…

[HungarianHippo]

Good luck OP, and hope you find the perfect mount. You’ll hear a lot of cautions from folks on COTH because over the years, all of us have seen new horse owners buy a horse that’s too much for them to handle and/or afford. And it’s common for a novice to overestimate what she knows. So in response, COTHers sometimes look for “holes in the story”-- what does this person really know. Not to be mean, but so that advice can be tailored to fit the real situation. As an example, you have 2 years experience. With the right trainer, in two years time it’s possible to have a rider who is very secure in the tack on the flat and over fences, has enough knowledge to recognize and correct horse misbehavior and improve a horse’s way of going, knows what to do when they see common illness symptoms, etc. Or it could be a rider who’s taken 1-hour lessons weekly for 2 years with a trainer who isn’t all that skilled herself, a rider who hasn’t had exposure to lots of different horses, who is mostly dependent on the trainer when it comes to fixing horse behavior and illness, etc. Horse shopping advice is going to be very different for those two riders. So, apologies in advance if the responses here come across as discouraging, or assume you are more of a novice than you really are. Please know that it’s motivated by concern for you and your eventual horse.

I love love love the suggestion to “spend” your monthly horse budget into a savings account for several months in a row. Please do this, you won’t regret it.
And put a lock on that savings account-- it’s the start of your emergency fund. When the equine illness or injury happens and that vet bill comes in, you need liquid, readily available funds-- you don’t want to have to borrow or use a credit card.

[PeteyPie]

Two issues I would think about are your horse’s welfare and your budget. Think about your philosophies on adequate horse care, including feed, environment, and social needs.

Feed: even boarders (including me) may end up buying their own feed, partially or wholly. Budget for that and investigate that issue when you look at boarding establishments. Budget for salt/mineral blocks (cheap) and supplements (expensive).

Environment: I think daily turnout is important. Obviously, safe, sturdy barns and fences are necessary. Shelter needs vary by region and your shelter needs may be more elaborate than the horse’s. It’s nice for you to have a comfortable grooming/bathing area, nice tack storage, and a place to sit/lounge at the barn, but that doesn’t affect your horse’s comfort.

Social needs: Since this will be your horse which you will have total responsibility for, I assume you want it to be happy. If you are able to be at the barn every day you will fill some of your horse’s need for social bonding. But if you will be riding only on weekends and your horse is alone the rest of the time, think about its companions. Will he have turnout with other horses? Will he have a companion/neighbor to stand next to at his paddock fence or a friend in an adjacent stall? Horses are gregarious animals and their social needs are important. It is kind to consider those needs.

You haven’t mentioned finances, so I will assume you are like the rest of us in that money matters.

Monthly Fees. Include board, extra feed and supplements, farrier, annual vet (shots, teeth, routine physical), and your lesson fees in this category.

Savings Buffer. Make a savings account or empty credit card (obviously, savings is better) for emergencies. My ideal emergency budget for a horse to use for trail riding and some lessons would be as follows:
-boarding, six months
-three rounds of shoeing
-$1000 for emergency issues (medical, unexpected tack replacement, euthanasia)
-horse’s medical insurance, six months (if applicable)
-riding lessons, six months

Tack, Equipment, Grooming Supplies, Medical Supplies, Storage Containers. Start shopping now. You will want to wait on the saddle (the big ticket item) until you get the horse, but start shopping to figure out what you like and budget for it. I could write a whole post on tack items, but I won’t, partly because I’m not as well-versed as others in the stuff to have for shows, but someone should make a list. Also, some of the equipment will vary depending on the barn. You might not need your own water buckets, feed tubs, or manure rakes, for instance, but you will need your own brushes, curry combs, and hoof picks. And bug spray and fly boots and shampoo and de-tangler and… The good thing is that you can buy a lot of this stuff as you need it.

Good luck!

[PeteyPie]

[QUOTE=seabreeze;7676175]
Before you buy, “spend” your monthly horse budget for three or four months to see if you can realistically afford the expense.

Here are some things you might consider including in your budget outside of basic board, farrier, etc.:
hauling fees to go to hunts or hunter paces;
training rides for when you might go out of town if you don’t want your horse to sit; additional hay or dietary supplements that might not be included in board;
entry fees or club fees;
fly spray,
medications,
veterinary maintenance (esp. with an older horse);
replacing or repairing a torn blanket;
cost of clippers or clipper maintenance if you’re clipping yourself or the cost of paying for clipping;
a monthly tack budget (truly, you will always need something, even when you’ve owned horses for 30 years);
the cost of fuel for increased trips to the barn…

Okay, you get the idea!

Best wishes![/QUOTE]

If you take seabreeze’s good advice, you could put aside a few month’s of budgeted fees to start your emergency fund.

[PeteyPie]

Oh, and budget for hauling your new horse to your barn. Get quotes. I paid more to haul my horses to the barn than I paid for the horses. Yes, I have cheap horses, but just sayin’.

Maybe you can negotiate with the seller to throw in free delivery as part of the sales price.

[Gidget]

[QUOTE=HungarianHippo;7676486]
…So, apologies in advance if the responses here come across as discouraging, or assume you are more of a novice than you really are. Please know that it’s motivated by concern for you and your eventual horse. [/QUOTE]

I can vouch for this personally, OP. I’ve gotten SO MUCH great advice since I became a member I can’t even tell you.

Yes, once and while I’ll post a question and get deluged with “overly protective” responses, but I can usually always find some benefit in it. I just remind myself that these people haven’t met me or seen me in action, so they’re just erring on the side of caution, that’s all.

Good luck with your search!

[emipou]

I’m taking vigilant notes on this thread. I’m leasing (okay, officially it’s a half-lease but seriously, I’m working with Mare 5-6 days a week, I’m so tired of explaining all this) at the moment. Depending on how the “plans for baby” happen in the next year or so will make a huge difference on how soon I am able to buy.

All I know is it took one bored afternoon resulting in google image searches for horse auctions (and worse) to decide that whatever horse I own down the road will be mine. For life. No matter what.

Also, having ridden semi-seriously or seriously for most of my 10-16 years, not so seriously following that, then really seriously the last year, countless summers and weekend days at the barn, I still don’t feel nearly knowledgeable enough to simply own a horse. I’m sure some of it only comes with experience.

[suzier444]

I disagree with the mare thing. I’ve known lots of opinionated young mares – in fact I own one – but some of the best “caretaker” horses I’ve known have been older mares. So IMO it can go either way.

The biggest mistake I made was that I didn’t think through all the Plan Bs for everything my horse would need. I had Plan A lined up, but very quickly found myself needing a Plan B. I know you have a home and trainer in mind, but things change rapidly in the horse business, and it’s a tremendous peace of mind knowing the lay of the land when it comes to the various service providers in your community (trainers, barns, farriers, vets, even other riders outside your barn, etc.) Though I’d never in a million years redo it and chance losing the horse I got, in retrospect, I wish I would have taken some more time getting acquainted with the horse community in my area before buying. I moved to a new city, started riding after a few years off, and then bought a horse basically weeks after starting at a new barn in a new city with a trainer I had just met. Unwise. But even if you do know your trainer and barn, barns close. Trainers move.

[french_fry]

Can you afford this? Can you really afford this? Are you SURE you can afford this?

I second (third? fourth?) the advice to “spend” your monthly horse allowance plus some padding for a couple of months before you start thinking about purchasing.

I know far too many people who had the purchase price, emergency fund and regular monthly expenses covered but severely underestimated how much the little extras add up. You can’t guarantee that you’re going to have the horse that’s fine with the boilerplate feed/turnout/shoeing/whatever options. You may have to try 8 different bits to find the best fit for your new horse. You might end up with a horse that needs bell boots in turnout and goes through a set twice a week. Maybe your new horse doesn’t do well with other horses and needs private turnout. These little unforeseen things can add up to the difference of hundreds a month.

[analise]

Just some other thoughts.

Always, always take someone else with you when you go look at a horse. Preferably someone horse-knowledgeable. But even if they aren’t, they can take notes of what’s said as you look at the horse. I was enchanted with one horse I went to see and only half paid attention to what the seller was telling me. My friend taking the notes was able to talk me down after we left by pointing out some of the things I hadn’t paid close attention to (previous founder due to West Nile, for instance).

On that note, no matter how lovely the horse seems, do not commit right then and there. At the very least, go home and sleep on it. Even when I found the horse I ultimately ended up buying, even when I got my horse-knowledgeable friend who went with me and basically told me immediately after if I didn’t buy him she was going to…even then I went home to think about it.

Making a budget and spending a couple months saving it up and seeing how you do without it is a great idea, and it is definitely a good idea to have a savings account in case of sudden injury or illness (I have a certain amount that comes out of my paycheck every two weeks and gets deposited in a savings account separate from my regular bank account).

Also consider finding out how much farrier work costs in your area. Consider whether the horse you’re looking at requires shoes or just trims. Consider how much vet work costs in your area. Consider the cost of getting a tooth float (my horse pretty much requires power floating because his teeth are ridiculous. Also he requires more sedation than the average horse because he’s larger than the average horse so that factors into the cost as well). Consider whether you’re going to need to supplement. As they say, the purchase price is the cheapest part of owning a horse.

I think other people have said this but it can’t be said too much. Make the seller do everything on the horse its advertised to do. They say it can jump 2’6"? Have them do it. They say it goes w/t/c quietly and has flying changes? Have them do it. Whatever. Have them do it BEFORE you get on the horse. I made that mistake once and I ended up with a sprained ankle as a reminder.

If you feel uncomfortable, there is no harm in saying it’s not working for you. You need to find a horse you feel safe on and shouldn’t force yourself through something you don’t feel safe with.

Do not get any horse that you can’t try first.

Expect that you’ll try a lot of horses before you find “the one”. Be willing to scour ads from all over (CL, Dreamhorse, Facebook, newspaper, horsey newspaper/magazine, bulletin board in the local tack store, and so on). Expect that it’s most likely you’ll find “the one” via networking with people rather than online (or at least, that’s how it seems most people I know find the horses they end up with, LOL).

Consider where you’re going to board. Are you planning on boarding at the barn you’re riding out of now? If you board somewhere else, will your trainer be able to train you there or will you have to use someone else?

I could go on and on but I’ll restrain myself.