Centaur/Ramm Fencing - does it truly look nice/stay nice?

[Bluey]

[QUOTE=jeniloohoo;8270462]
Thanks khall. I really love the black and to have the posts come that color is awesome to avoid painting and upkeep! I don’t know if we have those up here. I am going to do a search.

I just got an estimate for Ramm for $15 a linear foot. :eek: I am looking at doing a self install with a tractor guy digging the posts and helping me and my teens.

Thanks for your info![/QUOTE]

At that price, we can get portable pipe panels and pipe posts, that will keep most anything in or from getting in there and still save money.

[TheJenners]

Has anyone done the cost comparison of board v Centaur? I have had both, and loved both, but wasn’t involved in the money part of either.

I eventually want to have property, and want to have four board/rail perimeter and something different inside to allow for the roaming privileges of a certain burrito. I worry the little shit will wiggle through the rails.

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=TheJenners;8271811]
Has anyone done the cost comparison of board v Centaur? I have had both, and loved both, but wasn’t involved in the money part of either.

I eventually want to have property, and want to have four board/rail perimeter and something different inside to allow for the roaming privileges of a certain burrito. I worry the little shit will wiggle through the rails.[/QUOTE]
The cost of “board” verses “plastic” will be area specific. The cost of “plastic rails” is pretty much the same other than shipping cost. The cost of posts will be “market” priced to the area and availability. The vast majority of new fencing is done with 4X6 pressure treated posts from what I have seen. Which are readily available in most parts of the country. Around here 4X6 pressure treated post run about $12-14 per. Less in quantity

In my neck of the woods 3 board oak on 4X6 pressure treated pine or locust post, pounded, runs around $5-6+ per foot installed.

I live in a “horsey” area, installed fencing runs about 2 times the cost of materials.

[TheJenners]

True. Thanks

[BasqueMom]

Yep, cost comparison depends on locality. Centaur recommends 4-inch or better
for line posts and 6-inch or better for corner and end/gate posts. You are in the
Pacific Northwest and posts should be somewhat less expensive than, say, in
Arizona. Yours would probably be local pines. In the southeast, southern yellow pine is preferred.

When it comes to wood rails, you get what you pay for. Some woods withstand warping far better than others and they not be cheap. They also require repainting and/or restaining, and replacing. There is gorgeous, looks like it blew in from Kentucky thoroughbred farm near us with 4 board fencing. Couple years
ago, they replaced about 1/4 of the boards. Near us, pipe and cable is the most
popular fencing…not practically horse friendly or maintenance free and pretty
pricey.

[BasqueMom]

PS How’s the Evil Burrito doing?

[2DogsFarm]

I used a Centaur-clone (like MistyBlue shows) for top rail with 3 strands coated tensile beneath.

In 11 years I have only had to retension one line on one pasture - the middle one where my horses stick their heads out to graze on the “greener” grass outside.
My top line can carry a charge, but I have never attached a charger.

Even with all the pushing/grazing the lines are tight and the only damage to the rail is where my WB chewed a corner near the bracing.
Of course, he picked a spot that is visible along the front :rolleyes:

There is very minor green staining, in very few places on the rail that I have never bothered to remove.
And I am in the Midwest where a humid Summer is almost guaranteed.

For a do-as-little-as-possible farmowner this stuff has been a Lifesaver for me.

[ayrabz]

Mine is Ramm, and it was put up in 2009. I did opt for black and I am so so glad. I love it. One thing in addition to the ‘won’t turn green’ benefit is : My property is so tiny. The black really helps it not ‘jump out at you’ vs. how chopped up the white would make evident. And, I did one black hot coat wire at top, and another one above the bottom ‘rail’ because I did know (!) the plan was to get a mini…here is a clip of the fence and (!) the evil mini this past October. http://vid594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/ayrabz/IMG_1878_zpsmegflowu.mp4

http://s594.photobucket.com/user/ayrabz/media/IMG_1878_zpsmegflowu.mp4.html

[King_s_Ransom]

ayrabz, that black is beautiful!

I am definitely ready to add hotwire top and bottom if needed, but so far, the horses are staying away. I “think” this is because we have some hot Horseguard tape and they have each been bitten by it … so now they think everything white is hot!

I got the white because, as many know, I got a great deal on it off of Craigslist. But the black is very traditional and beautiful, too!

[ayrabz]

KR…yours is gorgeous! You have way more land than I do, too! (oh, and If I’d gotten that sweet Craigslist deal AND had a boat to trade?..I’d have done the exact same thing.)

[TheJenners]

[QUOTE=BasqueMom;8272005]
PS How’s the Evil Burrito doing?[/QUOTE]

Evil ;). He killed a pasture toy.

Ayrabz, yours is adorable! And nice fence!

[ayrabz]

Jenners: thanks! I am in need of getting fencer back (or hiring another) to add some cross fencing and even get a bid on a round pen. I will say, short runs are indeed QUITE expensive vs. other modes of fence, so if you go with this fencing its best to get a good plan and put all of it in that you can at original install. Oh, and on the mini issue? Our little Demitasse (a.k.a. Deviltasse) has figured out? there is one side of the sacrifice area where the hot coat is on the OPPOSITE side of the posts? and guess who has chewed on only those posts? sigh. So, I’m getting a bid on another run on the INSIDE of that fenceline as well. she. is. the. devil.

[King_s_Ransom]

Thanks ayrabz – you were my inspiration for trolling Craigslist! And I do really love the way it all came together!

[DennisFence]

[QUOTE=Helicon;8266959]
I like it in theory, but the last two installations I saw were not pretty. The vinyl bands themselves were dirty, warped and nicked. It did not resemble board fencing at all.

Is there a certain brand/model that stays nicer looking? I do know the end posts have to be braced as specified by the manufacturer.[/QUOTE]

If you want to know about the installation of this type of fence let me know. I build horse fence all over the US I’m based in KY and have worked from SC to NY all the way to Reno NV, and have installed this type of fence in all those states. I’ve installed over 100 miles of just this type of fence here in KY and if you want to know anything about it, just ask.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

[QUOTE=DennisFence;8297884]
If you want to know about the installation of this type of fence let me know. I build horse fence all over the US I’m based in KY and have worked from SC to NY all the way to Reno NV, and have installed this type of fence in all those states. I’ve installed over 100 miles of just this type of fence here in KY and if you want to know anything about it, just ask.[/QUOTE]

I’m a big fan of your work.

[Sadiegem]

I have Ramm fence and like it but my lack of experience is showing in the installation.

A couple of my corner 6" posts have leaned from the tension. How can I fix these? I was thinking of relaxing the fence, digging out the outside earth from the post, use a tractor to straighten the post, and fill the void with cement. Is this realistic?

[kalidascope]

[QUOTE=Sadiegem;8299403]
A couple of my corner 6" posts have leaned from the tension. How can I fix these? I was thinking of relaxing the fence, digging out the outside earth from the post, use a tractor to straighten the post, and fill the void with cement. Is this realistic?[/QUOTE]
By ‘outside earth’, do you mean the earth all around the post or just on the corner? I would think you would need to dig all the way around, not just one side, then concrete in the hole, and let it set thoroughly before re-tensioning the fence. Kind of like installing a new post, but more complicated (as the fencing is already attached.

[Sadiegem]

[QUOTE=kalidascope;8299699]
By ‘outside earth’, do you mean the earth all around the post or just on the corner? I would think you would need to dig all the way around, not just one side, then concrete in the hole, and let it set thoroughly before re-tensioning the fence. Kind of like installing a new post, but more complicated (as the fencing is already attached.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, I did mean just on the outside of the fence as I figured straightening the post would leave a void on the inside. The lean isn’t outrageously extreme and the post is solid, I can’t even get it to vibrate, but it looks cheap and frustrates me.

But I can easily dig out all around it. Fun with fences!

Some people want pool or cabana boys. I’m hoping a fence boy will just randomly show up.

[Bluey]

We have done that with big, fat wooden high line post used for corners and to hang gates.

Those posts, for some reason, didn’t set as well as the smaller telephone post, but gave a bit.

We dug on one side, pulled the post over with the tractor and poured a few sacks of concrete mix in the hole in front and some water.
Yes, wait to turn the post loose and under tension for a few days, let the concrete set.

Pounding some dirt well would also work, if you don’t have concrete.

Worked fine for decades, we just finally replaced those posts last year and they were still straight.

[kalidascope]

[QUOTE=Sadiegem;8300568]
Thanks, I did mean just on the outside of the fence as I figured straightening the post would leave a void on the inside.[/QUOTE]
It is likely there is a matching void at the bottom of the post on the opposite side (inside), so concreting only the inside (to fill the void) after straightening would only solve half the now-weakened/loosened area if that makes sense.