Composting toilet in barn lavatory: has anyone done it?

[QUOTE=Guilherme;8902314]
Before any installation it’s wise to check with your local zoning office to ensure you don’t get into trouble with The Authorities.

Since there is no effluent from an Incinolet I don’t think they require anymore than the permit necessary to run electricity.

If there is effluent, no matter how minor, then you’ll run into the Environmental Authorities. Some are reasonable; some are not.

In TN, AFAIK, a “holding tank” system needs to be permitted. It does not require a perk test but will require an inspection. The biggest risk with a holding system is a failure of “flushing system” component in the toilet tank and “waterlogging” your system. We have a low-water toilet in one bathroom and, after three years, had to replace the float valve as it would not fully close and would just keep running. We are on a standard septic system so it’s not a problem (except with the water bill). If you’re on a well then you have two problems.

In TN, a very low regulation state, permits outhouses but local authorities have the power to outlaw them. In doing some checking I found information that said Texas and New York don’t permit them but Alabama does. Didn’t verify any of that. I would think an outhouse might be a marketing negative for most folks today.

G.[/QUOTE]
I’m all for rules and regs, because there are a lot of people and businesses that don’t apply brain before hammer. Take into consideration how their actions effect others, the environment.

But I have little tolerance for unreasonable, unrealistic, unnecessary. overly expensive rules and regs.

The “code police” do not, can not come on someone’s non commercial property with out very good cause to check and see if everything is up to “code”.

Code Police;
“Your stair case risers are 1/8 of an inch too high, too low, you have to tear it out and rebuild to code. Your stair treads are 1/2 inch too wide you have to tear it out and rebuild to code”.

The Code books are guide lines. They are not written in stone. If someone wants/needs to do something that is not covered by “code” and or does not comply with existing code it doesn’t mean it can’t be done. They can go to the building department and get a type of “variance” by proving what is being done will accomplish the same thing that “code” requires.

It is a PITA and time consuming. You are dealing with bureaucrats who by nature of the job do not like dealing with anything that does not have a “box to check” on the paper work that has their signature at the bottom.

I know the drill because we went through the process in the 70s when building “unconventional housing” as it was referred to.

Dealing with Code when renovating old houses especially very old one can be a total nightmare and very expensive depending on the jurisdiction. So I and other who did this as a sideline preferred to go “stealth”, “undercover” on projects that were in a high visibility area. Because there are people in the building department that are paid to drive around looking for people to write a stop work order and fine. As a friend who worked in the building department told me it not as much about public safety as it is about getting permit money and or letting the property tax people know about an upgrade and so they can possibly up the property tax. To each their own on this.

“If there is effluent, no matter how minor, then you’ll run into the Environmental Authorities. Some are reasonable; some are not”

While this is true, I have found, not personally knowing people that were put through the ringer over ridiculously minor issues. Yes, the code police might give a property owner grief/disallow a holding tank system because there is a possibility of “over flow”. They’ll tell you a couple of gallons of effluent is going to contaminate the environment, ground water that could be hundreds of feet below. While they are giving their “speech” there could be a horse several feet away relieving itself dumping several gallons of urine. But I guess that falls under “natural causes”.

For most minor. low visibility, projects, upgrades, etc with/on property that is not in suburbia and sometime even when it is. It can be better not to ask for permission but rather ask for forgiveness. To each their own on this.

In the OP case and for most people who own farms these properties generally aren’t in a highly populated area. They can pretty much do what they want under the radar of the rules and regs police. Adding a bathroom in the barn certainly is not a high viability project. I’d take my chances and do it in a way that is most cost effective and safe.

I think it is absolutely absurd in rural areas that “holding tanks” can be difficult to have permitted if allowed at all. Had a friend who’s property didn’t “perk to code” for a standard leach field. The code police insisted that he had to put in a VERY expensive Engineered system in stead of allowing a large holding tank.
After doing the math the cost of over 35 years of pumping it out when needed was still cheaper than the cost of the required Engineered system.

As told by those who were part of the “system” a lot of code requirements are driven by industry stake holders, plumbers, electricians, unions and the companies that make stuff. A few years ago in Philly a new high rise was being built. The project was held up at great cost because a newly designed and approved “vent-less” water system was being used. The Plumbing Union got its panties in a twist because installing a vent-less system require a lot less billable hours and a lot less materials.

I can’t speak about the rules and regs for Outhouses in the various states, local jurisdictions. IME on an “off grid” property I had in the foothills of Boulder Co we were required to replace our old “two holer”, standard outhouse design set on top of a big hole with one that was set on top of a holding tank. The property/house was grandfathered in as “unconventional housing”. The only reason it became an issue was because we lost everything to the “Black Tiger” forest fire in 89.

Incinolet toilets work great but I they are not for everyone. It is a “lifestyle” change so to speak. The main thing to keep in mind when installing is how it is going to be vented. These things work by “frying, cooking, boiling/evaporating” what is deposited. Ever hang out in a kitchen when someone is boiling a pot of kidneys?

If not vented with this in mind the wafting smell of the process may become very unpleasant at times. Especially when a low pressure system moves in. It can the have the same effect that it does with wood fireplace, stoves, burning leaf smoke, it forces/keeps it close to the ground instead of “up and away”.

Composting toilets also work great for those who are comfortable with certain “lifestyle” changes. The Incinolet fills with ash composting toilets fill with what is/will be “compost”. Yes when the nasty stuff is fully composted the only thing “nasty” about it is knowing what it is composted with. But you have to keep in mind when it comes time to empty the thing not everything in it is going to be fully composted. Especially one that is being used on a daily bases by a lot of people.

Again either one requires the users to know and understand there are “lifestyle” changes that have to be followed for easy operation and maintenance for the BO, house owner, boat owner, RV owner. As Cheltenham pointed out the most important being the very judicious use of TP.

Based on my experience living with girlfriends.wife, women house guests and seeing how fast they go through the stuff this may not be an easy “lifestyle” change for most. Pretty hard to “police” and place blame on any one individual,lol. I know how my friends who have boats, RVs complain. These are not daily use, 7 days a week and certainly not being used 10-15 times a day.

I am not trying to say what to do/use just pointing out things to keep in mind, think about before committing.

If the OP and or anybody has to deal with the “code police” before installing any of these. Do not tell them it will be used by the “general public”, boarders. Even if it is just one. Tell them it is only for “me, myself and I” or and my small family of 3.5 people. Other wise I doubt very much it will be allowed. We are not talking about a “weekend cabin” get away.

[QUOTE=PeteyPie;8901986]
More questions for Gumtree:
If OP is using toilets 15 times a day with a one-gallon toilet, let’s just say 20 gallons a day are filling the holding tank. That is 600 gallons a month. How big are the tanks on the Honey Wagons? Can they empty that quantity in one trip so that it would be a monthly service? I realize this is not your business but you know a lot of stuff…[/QUOTE]

I am not an expert on the size of Honey wagons the ones I’ve seen/used can hold a lot. Several thousand gallons? I am sure they come in various sizes. I would think the owners of this business want the tanks big enough to services several a number of tanks before having to go to a dumping station. The same as garbage trucks.

Honey Dippers not only service holding tank systems but leach field systems that which also have “holding tanks”. The difference between the 2 is with a leach field system as the “tank” fills with “water” it spills/drains into the leaching pipe “array”. Pipes with holes in them and the effluent drains/filters through ground. This can work perfectly for years but how perfectly depends on how porous the ground is. How well it “perks”. It can get “slow” to drain over time depending on things. The “tank” can and does fill with “solids” also. So depending on the size of the tank even a leach field system will need to be pumped at some time depending on use.

“but you know a lot of stuff” Thanks, lol. People have asked how do you know all this stuff? Because I couldn’t afford to pay others to do a lot of the stuff I needed down. Now even though I can by and large based on experience I know what things cost and how much labor is involved. I am happy to pay someone else when I get a realistic quote.

But most of the time when I do get estimates/quotes these days they are hallucinating on what they think the job/project is worth. So I end up doing it myself with a helper or two.

Most contractors don’t want to work for me because they know I know what is involved and the costs and they can’t take advantage of me. I try real hard not to say too much when talking with them on first meeting. Not easy for me as evident by my lengthy posts/comments.

[QUOTE=PeteyPie;8901972]
That’s a great idea. How did the holding tank work? Did you dig out a hole and place it in there so that the whole system worked with gravity, or did you raise the toilet up a few steps above the level of the holding tank?

How many people use it regularly?

How often do you call the Honey Wagon?

How do you know when the holding tank is full – some unpleasant surprise or do you just somehow check it from time to time (that doesn’t sound like fun!)?

I realize this will vary by region but how much does it cost to have the holding tank pumped?[/QUOTE]

There can be several ways to go about this. I am not going to get in to local code/permitting because that is jurisdictional and my feelings about “code” was explained in one of my posts above.

The property I installed one was rural. The water table was very deep. Two types of tanks can be buried and they can be had in different sizes. This was years ago and we used pre-made concrete tank because we got it basically for free and I had a friend near by with big enough equipment to dig the hole and drop it in. A plastic tank like this is what I would use now.

http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/5754/1000-gallon-septic-tank-1-compartment-41718?gclid=Cj0KEQjwnKzABRDy2pb7nPSazdsBEiQAI4lZQB4ZYtb-6SdcJMJpz9JojZ04YvAK9teQxxrkC9xKJzsaAh108P8HAQ

One type was a “closed tank” and was being used for low use. The other type has “holes” in it so the “watery” stuff could leach out but depending on how porous the ground is where the tank is set/buried. So it can and does fill more quickly than other situations depending on use.

The tanks had a concrete, “manhole” cover that could be slid off to check the level. Pretty easy to MacGyver a “level gauge”. Cut a small hole in the top, install 2" PVC pipe a few feet down from the top of the tank. Take a smaller diameter PVC pipe capped/sealed at the bottom and slid inside the pipe. Need to install a “stop” on this pipe near the top so it won’t fall into the tank. As the tank fills and approaches the top the smaller closed ended “bobber” pipe will raise with it and signal the tank is getting full and time to call the Honey Dipper.

It is important to install the tank with a “raised collar” above grade enough so rain water/storm water can 't run into it and fill prematurely. Or worse back up the through the toilet drain.

Had a house in Breckenridge Co I rented with a “walkout basement” that had a bathroom with a shower. This place was built to “code” not one of my MacGyvered systems. It was fairly big lots of bedrooms and it was expensive to rent being a ski house. So with packed it with paying friends. I guess we had 1 too many people taking 1 to many showers and a lot of spring snow melt. The “system” backed up with the nasty stuff back flowing out of the shower drain.

Mike Rowe wasn’t around so I was left with the “Dirty Job”, using a 5 gallon wet/dry shop vac and a high topped pair of “wellies”. This was long before the show “Dirty Jobs”. That truly qualified as a dirty job.

The type of installation depends where the toilet is going to be located in relation to the tank. If it is easy enough to plumb it using a “gravity drain” that’s the cheapest, easiest way to go about it.

Otherwise a “lift station” pump can be used. The same that are used when adding/installing a bathroom/toilet in one’s basement. Like this one for example.

http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1309965579251/57148_PROD_FILE.pdf

The system I installed had as little as 2-5 people using it daily. Nothing else drained into it. Shower, sink, wash water was plumbed using a gray water drain system.

The cost of pumping out 1000 gallons is very regional because “dumping, disposal” fee vary greatly just like what it cost to take 1 ton of garbage to the dump.

So this would be a very important cost to check on before thinking thinking of installing a “closed” system.

We installed a “leaching” tank so the majority of the “watery” stuff leached into the surround ground under the tank. I think we pumped it maybe twice a year at best.

For commercial use like a small boarding stable one would need to do the math. And see if the cost can be factored in to the “cost of doing business”.

A quick check on the internet for installation of a conventional system;

“The cost to build a septic tank system varies widely, depending on your location. According to SepticTankGuide.com, a standard or conventional gravity system for a 3-bedroom home on a level site with good soil would likely cost from $1,500 to upward of $4,000”

The above IME would have to be under “ideal” conditions to cost under $4,000 let alone $1,500. IME more like $5,000 to $15,000.

Using a “holding tank” may or may not be cost effective depending on the area, use and pumping cost

[QUOTE=PeteyPie;8901986]
More questions for Gumtree:
If OP is using toilets 15 times a day with a one-gallon toilet, let’s just say 20 gallons a day are filling the holding tank. That is 600 gallons a month. How big are the tanks on the Honey Wagons? Can they empty that quantity in one trip so that it would be a monthly service? I realize this is not your business but you know a lot of stuff…[/QUOTE]

Sorry I didn’t answer your questions sooner. :wink:

Google has informed me that “honey” trucks run in the 2000-3000 gal. range.

If you Google “septic tanks” you’ll find a number of variations on the theme. If you do the same for “septic holding tanks” you’ll also find different types.

The difficulty with a “holding tank” is that if somebody “lets the water run” you need the pumper truck and are “out of business” until it gets there.

Looking over the alternatives I’m still of the opinion that the Incinolet would be the optimal first choice.

G.

So much better than what I imagined: opening a manhole cover and peering into the reeking foul abyss. :slight_smile: Or worse yet, noticing sewage sludge overflowing said manhole cover.

Why wouldn’t you just get a port-a-potty? A lot are decent and even have water. You can get is replaced, cleaned out, whatever and let someone else deal with it.

I find the idea of incinerating poop fascinating and am now on google search for information (just because I am bored after a long day).

In the long haul, I just don’t think my clientele would deal with a porta potty. Short term, after construction, yes. Long term, no.
Even a holding tank set up which is essentially a porta potty would probably go over okay if it was in the barn and “looked” like a lavatory.
I probably Overestimated the daily uses. Based on four or five lessons per day max, and maybe three riders outside of lessons, the more likely use would be under 10 per day. If I have clinics, I’d get a porta-potty for the week end.

So many great ideas! I am also rather fascinated by the incinerator concept…

I used to ride in clinics at a barn that used a composting toilet for several years. They finally were able to put in a bathroom, but the composting toilet was fine. I was mostly there in winter or the cooler months and they were very diligent about having you put a scoop of peat moss in after you used it, but it never smelled and seemed like a decent alternative to a rental portopotty.

[QUOTE=arlosmine;8903385]
In the long haul, I just don’t think my clientele would deal with a porta potty. Short term, after construction, yes. Long term, no.
Even a holding tank set up which is essentially a porta potty would probably go over okay if it was in the barn and “looked” like a lavatory.
I probably Overestimated the daily uses. Based on four or five lessons per day max, and maybe three riders outside of lessons, the more likely use would be under 10 per day. If I have clinics, I’d get a porta-potty for the week end.

So many great ideas! I am also rather fascinated by the incinerator concept…[/QUOTE]

I’ve noticed you see them for sale not irregularly in swap/trade mags rural areas, the Sun Mar compost type too. People have them in a camp, then decide to get a septic, sell them. Could be a way to get one at less cost in event didn’t like.

Check out Tiny House web pages. Tiny House people do a lot with composting toilets and dealing with code.

I have been to camps/ rural farms etc. where they have made their own no frills composting toilet. Built into building to look like a normal bathroom, the seat may be out house-esque in that you have a toilet seat with a boxed in area below. But they came up with their own system of “holding”. Something that they could open from outdoors and pick up with a tractor to take to a composter site on the property etc.

The ironic things is—dry method, like using sawdust, shavings to absorb what’s going in your outhouse/compost type crapper, and then dumping fresh dry down on top when used —instead of water like flushing—they dry method is 100% not gross, smelly, and hugely less risk of unsanitary contamination because it’s dry, no run off, and you can even add enhancing microbes to get to work composting it, and it’s not hospitable environment for the kinds of things that make u sick passed via fecal oral route—they like being in water wet environment.

Cat box for humans :lol: It is a lifestyle change. And it does sound really eeeew gross untill you’ve seen and used it—done right. Believe me—I hate out houses, have used plenty nasty ones…but it really doesn’t have to be gross at all. But, it will take effort and a good plan to do it right. That’s not always feasible when dealing with multiple people etc.

There is also a book called “Humanure” been around a long time. Popular with off grid back to earthers. Has quite a lot of info. Personally, I wouldn’t fertilize my vegetable garden w Humanure…that’s just pushing it too far for me, but I’d use it to make flower beds or fertilize the lawn. Actually—sewage treatment plant in my town gives it’s dry processed humanure away by the truck load. Looks like mulch. Landscapers go get by the dumptruckfull. Good for plantings, spreading on areas to be sead with grass. The sewage treatment plant publishes data on testing they perform on it to show it is…cleaner than your kitchen sink.

The composting toilets that I’ve had to use all stunk.

I just “used” my first one today…one in a stable, and non- stinky!

Arlosmine, would you mind bumping this thread if you end up using a composting toilet? I’m seriously considering one for a barn bathroom now, too, thanks to the info here…getting the skinny on the installation would be awesome.

If anyone is interested in the marine head type of composting toilet (that flushes with water) I would be more then pleased to send photos etc. of our barn lounge toilet. NO smell, just flushes with water like a regular toilet. When I tell our new boarders it is actually a “composting” toilet they are truly really surprised.

Edited to add that this is the model we have in our barn.

http://www.envirolet.ca/vf.html

well mark cuban your spam post has been reported, go back to screwing something else up