Yep, my County rep slit mine to flock with the long hook thingy
Photos? My saddles all have flocking slits (apparently, because I have the flocking adjusted) but they are not visible AT ALL…
Kind of surprised they cut so many (3 on each side, according to OP), but definitely had my County reps do that. I’m pretty sure the fitter (non County, just independent) who adjusted my Black Country also cut slits. Depends where the built in openings are versus where they need to add or remove wool.
While flocking slits are “normal” they should not be gaping or flocking material readily visible; when my County rep needed to add them to an older saddle, she discussed it first, & they are only apparent upon close examination …
A competent saddler will drop the panels and put them back.
Well, the seller was adamant that the slits were typical so I did not argue. The saddle is mine and I am having my County rep come out soon to reflock it. The flocking is quite sparse and I am guessing they removed flocking to get it to fit a new horse.
[QUOTE=vxf111;7145425]
I don’t love this practice but it is commonly done.[/QUOTE]
It’s really the only practical way to do a flocking adjustment. The only other way is to drop the panels and hope there are flocking holes cut in the top of the panels. If there are no flocking holes in the top of the panels, you’d either have to cut them, or unstitch the tops of the panels to access the flocking. Then you’d have to sew everything back together, re-lace the panels onto the tree, and then check the fit. If further work was needed (and it’s rare that the first go at an adjustment doesn’t need at least a little tweak), you’d have to repeat the process. WAY easier to cut flocking holes in an unobtrusive spot and do the work that way.
Could someone take a picture of this? I’ve never seen it (which is admittedly not saying much!), but would like to know for future reference.
[QUOTE=Kitt;7147899]
It’s really the only practical way to do a flocking adjustment. The only other way is to drop the panels and hope there are flocking holes cut in the top of the panels. If there are no flocking holes in the top of the panels, you’d either have to cut them, or unstitch the tops of the panels to access the flocking. Then you’d have to sew everything back together, re-lace the panels onto the tree, and then check the fit. If further work was needed (and it’s rare that the first go at an adjustment doesn’t need at least a little tweak), you’d have to repeat the process. WAY easier to cut flocking holes in an unobtrusive spot and do the work that way.[/QUOTE]
There’s cutting and then there’s cutting. The way I’ve seen County fitters do it is kind of sloppy. And not near the seam. Which makes no sense to me. If I was going to cut leather, I’d try to do it near a seam.
Since that one experience- I have always had my saddles adjusted by independent fitters, and they took them to work on. I don’t know what magic they used but the saddles came back without visible slits cut in. I don’t know if they’re not cutting at all or if they’re just doing it in a less obtrusive way, but I don’t plan on using that County fitter again.
Flocking slits
Hello to all! Yes, the flocking slits are completely normal for a wool flocked panel. Foam panels will not have these as there is no way to adjust the foam. Please do not worry, the wool will not come out unless you do some digging in there. If it does look like some is working its way out, just press it back in gently with your finger.
Most fitters will do a little incision if the holes are not in a convenient place; otherwise it can be impossible to get the wool in the exact right place without some Cirque du Soleil-type maneuvers. Putting the slits near the seams can be hazardous; if the leather isn’t strong enough, then the slit can tear into the seam… BIG problem!
Old flocking can get balled up and IMPOSSIBLE to get out (kind of like Arnold in Total Recall trying to get the tracking device out of his nose) and a bigger incision will have to be made, or the panels have to be dropped (for an extra charge, I’m sure). Or, sometimes panels can’t be dropped either because of time constraints, budget issues, or if the fitter thought it was too much of a risk because of the leather’s condition (or lack of).
Underflocked panels are pretty common in NEW higher quality saddles; the saddle companies know there is a saddle fitter attached to that saddle who will fit it to the horse it was bought for. It is WAY easier to ADD flocking than it is to take out!
Also, new flocking needs to be ridden in to mold it to the horse and get all the “air out”, then another fitting done after, in 2-3 weeks, in which the fitter will usually add more wool. Different types of wool will have different densities. The better the wool, the softer it is, and the more “touch-ups” you may need.
I hope this answered some questions! Cheers!
Amanda Anderson, Saddle Fitter
Sleipnir Saddlery
Thank you Amanda for an excellent accurate explanation.
Sometimes you can access the holes in the top of the rear panels by slipping your iron in through the channel, but otherwise, you have to use/cut flocking holes. It’s really the only way to adjust a flocked saddle, unless you drop the panels. That’s not practical, since you often have to make the adjustment, watch the horse and rider go, and adjust again, watch again, etc. until the fit’s correct. Can’t imagine having to re-lace the panels, drop them, re-lace them and so on. Flocking holes should be up high under the flap, and when cut properly, don’t effect the saddle’s integrity.
