DIY arena rehab: Can it be done?

Undulations aside, my arena seems pretty dang level. Someone spent a lot of money putting it in; I have no doubt it was professionally done. Plus I’m encouraged that it drains so well. That it tends to be hard as a rock rather than swampy tells me the base is in decent shape.

But we do need to address the grass clumps and leftover gopher damage. Our neighbor should be able to help us with the discing, but I need to make sure he can keep it to no deeper than an inch.

I also have a guy with lots of earth-moving equipment. I bet if I gave him specific instructions for spreading the sand he could get it worked into the arena properly. So I’m hopeful! Thanks for this insight.

If it ever stops raining, we can get started and I’ll be sure to provide an update!

I’m no “expert” per-say, but I do have a fair bit of experience and understanding of these things. If this was installed with reasonable expertise and it looks and sound like it was. IMO and experience the last thing you want to do is “disc” it. The last thing you want to do is risk the chance of the compacted base being “disturbed” or parts of it. Unless it is perfectly level and very few if any rings with age are going to be especially ones that are crowned. You run a very high risk of “digging” into the base in some areas and not in others. Even if the operator sets the disc to “float” mode. So unless you go over the entire surface checking for “soft spots” and compacting them the base is going to be inconsistent. Which IMO is worse then what you already have. Which doesn’t look bad to me based on the picture. I assume this is for personal use not to have high end competitions on where it will get lots of use and abuse.

I use 2 types of drags on mine. When it footing gets compacted from lack of use and or not dragging on a regular bases I made a pretty aggressive drag to break up and get down almost to the base. An 8 foot “box” made out of 4X6, reinforced corners, bolted together with carriage bolts and some lag bolts. With a “weight box” on top that can be filled with stones, cider blocks, whatever. I bought 3/8 rebar and cut 12" sections, drilled holes in the frame sized to the rebar for a “snug” fit. The holes were drilled in a “V” pattern. I think around 4-6" spacing. Pounded the rebar through and “exposed” enough to get through the footing, around 4± inches. As the rebar wore down over the years I just “pound” the tops to “even up” the bottom to the others. I attached a chain so it would drag on the “diagonal”.

After working up the base I “finish” with a chain drag. If it is dragged on a regular bases weeds and grass will be kept at bay. If not use a “ground clear” product that will usually last through the “growing season”. Spray when it has been hot and dry.

IMO and I am saying this without the benefit off inspecting the project, I would just add more footing and smooth out. But you will needs some kind of equipment to do this. A tractor with a bucket and a decent operator can do a pretty good job. And or a 3-point hitch scraper blade on the rear. Those combined have worked for me. Than drag and drag until it becomes pretty consistent and even.

You can do the math to determine how much footing/sand by using any number of online calculators. Or just measure it call whoever you are going to buy the footing from give them this dimension and tell them how deep you want it to be. They will do the math for you. When the trucks come be prepared to start moving the footing around as soon as the truck leaves. Than have them dump the next load in a different area of the ring. It will be a PITA to try and work around the various “piles” if you try and do it after the fact.

The “go to” area guy around here told me the best bang for the buck that gives a nice riding surface and tends to retain moisture and keeps the dust down is to add saw dust/shavings also. Yes it will break down over time but is worth the effort to add more when needed. You’re in Colorado with a dry climate so it should last a lot longer than it does here in the wet, humid mid-Atlantic region.

Take a look at the ABI equipment. I just bought the Arena Rascal Pro and so far it is doing everything as advertised. This tool can fix a lot of issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKbRRzTzMwE

My footing had developed waves and the footing in the center had thinned out and become hard from using a chain harrow. I was able to adjust this tool to grade the waves level again in just a few passes. The hard footing in the center is fluffing up again.

I have only used the tool a few times so far – wish I had bought one years ago. I may not even need to add more footing and won’t need to hire anyone, at least not for some time. I am so glad I decided to go this route because it is going to save me a boatload of money.

How much does one of those cost, Larkspur?

If it were mine I’d spray the weeds and use a landscape rake to try to remove the grass, then add some additional sand.

Personally I wouldn’t disk it, you will churn up the base and it will make it deep, and if you end up cutting through the base into the ground underneath you will have a mud hole.

I wouldn’t disc it. If you disc down an inch, you are not getting rid of the undulations you don’t like. You have to correct the base to fix that or you just have deep and shallow sand areas.

If the sand blew away and all you have is base, this is a great time to fix any base issues/undulations (before bringing in more sand). Or scrape the sand to one side, fix, and so on.

gumtree, I have a mental block. Do you have a picture of your aggressive drag?

I’m also having a mental block with the poster who talked about dragging an I beam and the connections…

Fergs, it sounds like you have an excellent arena. Somebody spent a lot, A LOT of money on it. Based on that, I would be very, very weary of disc it. I would want to preserve the based as much as possible.

The transportation of sand for us is over a couple of thousands because of the distance. We have several quarries close by but all of them have river sand, and I want manufactured sand (crushed stone and washed to my specs.) It needs to be trucked in from a couple of hours away, and with 6 loads, the transportation adds up fast.