[QUOTE=cowboymom;7928102]
She said there is a grass cover crop on it.[/QUOTE]
I wonder if this isn’t just a volunteer sprouting of weeds, and not an actual planted crop to be harvested…
Since the farmer has really been a good steward to the soil by using no till methods, I’m hoping I can continue that. But I can’t see any way to get rid of the cornstalks without disturbing the soil. Maybe harrowing would be better than plowing, anyway. The more I read about no till methods, the more I realize the damage done to soil with plowing. There may be no way around it, though.
Luckily, I have a very helpful, knowledgeable farmer who leased the land, walked it with me, and will be continuing to lease the 40 acres I don’t need. He’ll probably do the planting for me.
Thanks for all your replies, and I’ll be getting in touch with an extension agent on my trip up in January.
Hey, Shammy Davis! Thanks for that article! That is exactly the kind of information I was looking for, without knowing where to look. Perfect! The COTH comes through again. I’m printing out all 15 pages of it right now. I’ve been a farm girl my entire life, but things change, and there is always more to learn.
The cover crop could also be Roundup-resistant. I don’t know - I would ask.
Tilling and plowing are not the worst things to do. No-till does not prevent soil erosion either, and some farmers do not believe the soil loss is reduced. To prepare the pasture just this once, I would consider any practical method.
[QUOTE=JackW;7922508]
If the corn field had been sprayed with a weed control, it may take a couple of years to get a pasture started. Ask the former owner when it was last sprayed.[/QUOTE]
If it has some sort of cover crop, it can reasonably assumed that grass will grow.
Regardless, contact the county extension for your area. They know exactly what to do.
But the corn stems will eventually go away. Mow with a mulching mower…but the quickest, most reliable way (aside from a sacrifice paddock) would be to take soil samples, plow the field under and sow the grass.
When we bought our present farm about 50 acres had be leased to a tillage/crop. The rotational crops grown around here, are corn, soybeans and wheat/barley. Corn takes a lot nutrients of the soil so it is pretty much also replanted with soybeans a legume that releases nitrogen the following years. The cover crop around is here is pretty much rye grass and barley. Calling rye grass a “crop” is pretty much a misnomer. It is planted in the fall because it is a cool season grass that doesn’t take much from the soil and is there to “hold” the soil from erosion. Come spring it is pretty much tilled under and planted with a spring crop like wheat which is harvested in June and the field is replanted with corn or soybeans.
The first thing you have to do is find a local farmer with the necessary equipment. We were months away from moving on the farm and lived in another state. I was given the number of a local company that specializes in “growing grass”. What I found out after the fact was they were more in the business of installing “sports fields” golf course etc. After moving here I became friends with a number of my surrounding crop farm neighbors. I wanted a “dual purpose” field so I planted hay, 2/3 Orchard 1/3 Timothy and fence in latter if need for pasture. Several years latter while talking with my neighbor a big crop farmer and discussing my hay field and what I paid to have it done he just “rolled” his eyes. We paid about twice the he would have done it for. Live and learn. So I strongly suggest driving around and look for some big “crop” farms, stop in and introduce yourself and or put a note in their mailbox. And or ask around at your local Ag supply stores, the ones that sell various seeds, fertilizer and cater to crop farmers, not hobby farmers. They should be able to give you some references.
Now is the time to get on this. Start with getting the soil analyzed. An Ag supply will have the pre-addressed bags. The Ag suppliers around here also apply the recommended fertilizer and if the property is of sufficient size they may pull the soil samples for free in exchange for purchasing and applying. Lime is around here is done by a separate company/service. The Soil Report is easy to read will tell you exactly what is needed and the amount needed per acre. The price of fertilizer can and does vary wildly. Potash is generally needed when converting from crop to grass and can be very expensive. We are located in the “mushroom growing belt” and have been using “spent” mushroom soil which they deliver for free. Big bang for the cost of spreading.
As to soil/ground prep. There will be a number of different “schools of thought” on this. The corn stalks will bio-degrade on their own but it will take some time. You can take a “bush hog” drop it so it sits just above ground level and “whack” them close. But it is kind of moot IMO if there is a cover crop, barely or rye. IMO and experience you cannot “drill” no till your grass seed in with this coming up also. Both will grow faster than the germinating grass seed and “smother-shade” it and will result in poor results. IMO you will be wasting expensive seed money. So, IMO and experience you will have to get this tilled under which will also take care of corn stubble. Then it will need to be “floated” to break up the “clods” of dirt and level out the ground. Because corn is planted in rows you will want to float “across the grain” the corn rows to get it reasonably level. Otherwise it will make for a VERY bumpy ride when mowing “across the grain”. Which results in having to use lower ground speed when mowing and takes its toll on equipment and operator.
There are two schools of thought when it comes to planting seeds. Broadcast and drilling. IMO giving the soil is already “open” I think broadcast is the way to go. Better coverage then drilling which puts the seeds in selectively spaced “row”. So, IMO more time has to be spent drilling by going over it several times at different “angles”. I have no personal experience with using a grass seed drill other than for over-seeding and that is with a smallish rental machine. After I broadcast I drag it good to get the seed covered. And then roll it with a culti-packer, which is a wide folding ground roller. Avery important final step. Depending on how “loose” the soil is after being tilled and floated you may need to roll is before broadcast seeding. If the seed is going to be drilled it will have to be rolled pretty “tight” before seeding.
Quality seed is expensive, $50-$200 per 50 pounds depending on variety. I’m guessing you will need around 500+ lbs. The seed companies seem to under estimate application rates per acre I guess so it doesn’t seem so expensive. I add around 20% more than the recommended amounts. If you are not going to be running mares I would go with a high % of Fescue, it is tuff and durable and the least expensive, verses Bluegrass with is $$$$. I also like to throw in Orchard and a lower % of Timothy. Both of these “hay” grasses are “clump” grass they do not spread out fill in like Fescue, Bluegrass and other spreading pasture types. Your local AG Supply will have a variety of seed to choice from and considering you will be buying a lot they will be happy to discuss mix up a good pasture seed for you.
We prepped and seeded in mid to late March. Being in SE PA and you in NJ were are basically the same area. But the “locals” can advise better then I. New Jersey is call the Garden State for a reason so come July you should have an excellent stand of pasture grass. It should be hardy enough to start mowing by mid to late June. The old grass adage, “the more you mow the more it grows” spreads holds true. I have used a big “bush-hog” impact/swing mower, 16 footer which still requires a number of hours to mow 50 acres. For the best results on newly planted grass pasture a finish mower is a better choice IMO and experience. They make a “clean cut” like a lawn mower putting less stress on the new grass and you will get less “die back”. If weather is your friend you should be able to allow grazing come late August, September. Though the following spring would be better. Just depending how well it comes in. If you are fencing into small paddocks best wait to the following spring or keep a very small population in each.
Again if you want it done this spring you need to start now with soil samples, easier done when the ground is not frozen. Farmers plan way ahead so you need to find someone with the equipment and expertise now so as to get on their schedule. Estimated costs, to prepare, fertilizer, till, float, roll and seed, including cost of seed around $15,000+. Depends on how you go about it. But this is just a guess, don’t know fertilizer costs, nor seed. Some people charge by the hour and some by the acre. Around here a farmer will run a seed drill for around $25-35 per acre. Tilling, floating and rolling maybe by the hour or acre. Again, seed is very expensive so you want someone who knows how to do it right so you get a very high germination rate and big bang for the buck.
All of the above is based on my direct experience in my neck of the woods on my horse farm. Cost are being guessed at by and large and based on my cost going back 5-10 years.
As to other commenters concerns about “herbicides” I am with Cowboymom
As always to each their own.
[QUOTE=dressagegirl123;7922379]
What steps and timetable would you use to do this. The farm I just bought was all in corn, so now its covered with stupid short hay stalks. (Well, I guess they’re not stupid. Just annoying.) There is a cover crop of some kind of grass (maybe rye) overplanted.
How do I turn this in to wonderful pasture? I’m in New Jersey. Thanks![/QUOTE]
Are you me? I did this last summer! In Lumberton NJ.
The farmer either cut or plowed in the stalk leftovers (I’m not clear on which), fertilized, and planted a pasture mix. I did this in Mayish. It came in lush, green… WEEDS. 90% weeds! The farmer then came back in August and sprayed with some sort of weed killer and the grass started to take a hold. By September, it was 80% grass, 20% weed and/or baldish spot. I fenced off a small area as a sacrifice and am leaving the rest go.
The plan for the spring is to let the grass grow LONG, get one cutting from it, fence the rest, and overseed again in the fall (keeping the horses in the sacrifice area again). The grass is actually pretty ok now, but I’d like to get it a little nicer/fuller if I can.
I am also composing manure with no hay/straw/shavings in it. TBD what to do with that. Planted aaaaaaaaaalll around me is corn. If corn sucks nitrogen and manure compost is full of it… maybe the farmer will want my compost for the fields around me?
Before anything,get a soil test. Lime needs months to be effective.
[QUOTE=vxf111;7928751]
Are you me? I did this last summer! In Lumberton NJ.
The farmer either cut or plowed in the stalk leftovers (I’m not clear on which), fertilized, and planted a pasture mix. I did this in Mayish. It came in lush, green… WEEDS. 90% weeds! The farmer then came back in August and sprayed with some sort of weed killer and the grass started to take a hold. By September, it was 80% grass, 20% weed and/or baldish spot. I fenced off a small area as a sacrifice and am leaving the rest go.
The plan for the spring is to let the grass grow LONG, get one cutting from it, fence the rest, and overseed again in the fall (keeping the horses in the sacrifice area again). The grass is actually pretty ok now, but I’d like to get it a little nicer/fuller if I can.
I am also composing manure with no hay/straw/shavings in it. TBD what to do with that. Planted aaaaaaaaaalll around me is corn. If corn sucks nitrogen and manure compost is full of it… maybe the farmer will want my compost for the fields around me?[/QUOTE]
May is pretty much the worst time to go about this in our neck of the woods. Which explains why you had poor results. As to your weed crop, I would bet it was not tilled, if tilled/turned over you would have seen nothing but brown earth for about at least a month. Which reminds me of something I left out about using “no till” drilling grass seeding in the spring. Weeds deposit their seeds in late summer, fall depending on the weed. So it is much better to till, turn the soil over so as to bury the weed seeds deep enough so they can’t germinate and compete with the much more delicate and expensive grass. No till, drilling is best done around here in mid to late August. The grass will germinate quickly and establish itself pretty well before going dormant. Come spring it will spring to life thicken and crowd out/shade out a lot of the germinating weed seeds.
Grass starts germinating based on soil temperature 70-80 not ambient air temps. So that is why it is OK to seed around here in late March. The dark soil will heat up quickly come April due to solar gain and the new grass should be well established by early July when it gets hot and dry and the grass will go somewhat dormant again. I am talking about cool season grasses which are the norm for our geographic location. When planted in May it will not get established enough to withstand the stress our hot and dry July puts on it. There will be a fair amount of “die back” lost seed money. But the weeds will do nicely. So will warm season "garbage grasses’ and other unwanted stuff.
Not all farmers are “grass farmers” The farmer type to find and use are those that are hay producers.
This is a link to our website. The bottom picture is of the 50 acres we planted in March and this picture was taken in July of the year planted. And it had already been mowed a time or two.
http://gumtreestables.com/
As to your manure composting. “Straight horse” crap is pretty strong stuff and should not be used in gardens without being “cut”. It is far better to compost with straw and hay in it. Unless you have a heck of a lot of stalled horses you will not produce enough for a farmer to take the time to come and get it and spread it. Based on my experience about a 10-4± ratio, 100 lbs of stall much out will compost down to a couple of pounds of compost. Put it on Craig’s list. Making “compost tea” gives a really big bang for buck and effort.
Yeah, for various reasons I rushed to plant the field in May (actually might have been April now that I think about it, and he billed me in May) knowing that the timing was not ideal but feeling pressured to do something ASAP. The farmer told me that waiting until fall was better… but he was also unavailable to plant the grass in the fall and I was panicking about getting the setup going/horses home because of the tax assessment pressure-- so I did it even though it wasn’t ideal. Worked out ok. I have enough grass to start and I’ll seed again this upcoming fall.
OP, you can send a soil test to Rutgers and they send you LOTS of info and come out and walk the property/give you advice. The test was inexpensive (maybe $30) and the advice/help is free. Well worth it!
The fields are all around me. The farmer wouldn’t have to ‘come get’ the compost. It would literally be right there where he’s going to plant next year’s crop anyway. My pile is on my side of the property line and the other side is a field. I figured I’d compost it-- offer it to him first (since it’s right there). If he doesn’t want it, offer it on CL/to local gardners (there are 2 farm and garden centers on my block/the next block) and if that doesn’t work-- rent a spreader and spread on my property OR rent a dumpster to get rid of it.
I have 2 horses, probably will get up to 3 before long. They live out and only come in to eat, so 99.9% of the manure is getting scooped directly from the field and it’s ‘pure manure’ without shavings etc. mixed in. Manure from the stall (when there is any) goes somewhere else. NOT in the compost pile.
Is straw and hay GOOD in the compost? I was told no, it doesn’t break down as easily. I just spent HOURS picking the leftover hay out and wheelbarrowing it way far away instead. Ugh. So yay or nay to having stray hay in the compost pile? I know shavings are bad. But hay?
[QUOTE=dressagegirl123;7925406]
I should have given more detail… First, I did say I am in NJ. Recommendation from the farmer was to leave it fallow until the fall of 2015, then plant in the fall. He has been using no till methods, but I would think I would have to wait 2 years before the corn stalks completely break down. And, as GFAG says, they are awful to walk on. I’ve been staggering about, laying out the locations of the buildings. Killer to walk on. Good idea to ask him about herbicides and pesticides. Maybe that’s why he recommended letting it sit.
The good news is, that since I haven’t built anything, there won’t be horses on it until everything is built. I’ll put up sacrifice paddocks, but I want my pastures established by spring of 2016. I winter in Florida, so I’ve got time to plan all of this out.
Even if I had cows, the current lack of fencing would be a problem, so I can’t use them to get rid of the stalks. Sounds like a great idea, though.
Thanks for all your help![/QUOTE]
Cow aren’t going to bother with the stalks much when there is rye grass growing.
[QUOTE=GoForAGallop;7922812]
Second the recommendation to check out any past herbicide uses.
You also don’t list your location. In my area, this time of the year, the ground is usually too hard to work, so everything would be put off until spring. By some grace of god, the ground is actually not yet frozen, so some of these steps could be done now.
But my general plan would be:
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Leave it all as-is for now. The roots of the corn and cover crop will hold everything in place over the winter.
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Plow everything far under in the spring, once the ground is unfrozen.
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Harrow, to smooth everything out.
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Plant your grass seed, and let it sit for the rest of the year. Tread lightly around the edges to get your fencing up. You can MAYBE let the horses onto it for the late fall, and you MAY need to mow it once or twice. It will definitely vary on the year, the grass, and the location.
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Horses can go out on it over the winter, once there’s some snow cover.
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Can start using it as pasture the following year.
You definitely won’t have grazing land in 2015, not if you’re going to do it right with perennial grasses.
It’s also going to be a ton of work if you don’t have the proper equipment.
A warning about those corn stalks…be careful riding/walking in them. They are at the perfect angle to stab into your calf/your horse’s leg, and they are SHARP. I have a big scar on my calf from running through them as a child, went right up the side of my leg and took off a huge strip of skin. Disgusting. :blech:[/QUOTE]
Though I agree in general. You are located in a different geographic/climate. Your winters come earlier and your spring starts latter then this area. I am not that far from NJ.
The best way to deal with the corn stubble is to bush-hog it very close to the ground. That’s what my corn farmer neighbors do. That’s what bush-hogs, impact mower are built for among other things.
[QUOTE=bdj;7927541]
Is the farmer you bought the land from the one who harvested the corn and planted the cover crop?
(Guy I bought my place told me that the farmer that he’d leased the property to knew about the impending sale and was fine with loosing his cover crop - that was a big old lie, and I’m very glad I went to the local Extension office where two phone calls cleared that situation right up… I had to send the leasing farmer a letter letting him know that the lease would not be renewed once he’d harvested his barley crop the following spring, and I couldn’t do anything to the property until that had been harvested. Hopefully, you don’t have that kind of situation, but it’s worth it to make certain.)[/QUOTE]
This is true. One of the stipulations in our purchase contract was for the seller to notify the farmer that his lease would be canceled and the seller had to reimburse his expenses. We signed the purchase contract in mid-November and closed, took possession in May. We also stipulated that we were to have access and permission to start work on the leased land in January. The owner had been leasing the barn and surrounding paddocks so we also stipulated that all the horse were to be off the property no latter then the end of February. So we could let the paddocks rest and be fertilized.
Thanks, gumtree. Lots of good information, there. I WISH I were near the mushroom farmers where you are. The farmer who leases my land is the biggest farmer in Hunterdon County. He owns a lot of land, and leases a lot, as well. Happily, he also grows hay, so he should have all the equipment.
Just a few questions. When you say “float” the field after tilling it–what is that? What equipment is used? Is that the same as harrowing it? And, when you drag over just planted seed, what are you using? Also, I was surprised at your estimate for the seed I would need since I didn’t specify how many acres I was planting. What did you base that estimate on?
Again, thanks for all the good information.
Sorry my mistake I read this, “will be continuing to lease the 40 acres I don’t need” as the size of the property you are working with. How many acres are we talking about?
“Floating” maybe be a regional term. It is basically “harrowing” but in addition to breaking up the soil a bit more effort is put into leveling it also. Which is not too important to a field that is being used for crops. A harrow is used, York rake, etc.
I use a large chain drag after broadcasting seed. The seed shouldn’t be covered with more than a ¼± inch of soil. And then rolled well to make sure it has good contact with the soil.
My estimate as I said maybe on the high or low side for 40 acres. Depending on how much fertilizer will be need and what kind. I have check prices yet I am hoping it will be a lot less then it was a few years ago. I use mushroom soil most years. But every couple I pull soil samples and bring things back up to “spec”. Without finding the file I think it cost around $6-7,00 for 60+ acres.
If you don’t mind me asking how much are you leasing the 40 acres for? I get asked from time to time to lease 10-20 acres.
Ok, I see. I’ll be building my house, indoor, outdoor, barn, hay shed, riding field and pastures on about 20 acres. Any free space will go to hay. I spoke to the Rutgers county extension ag guy, who will come see the farm in January when I go up. He’ll run a soil sample, and knows “my” farmer well. Its nice when you move into an area where agriculture is valued, and everyone works together.
He also recommended leaving the fields fallow until the optimum time to plant (Aug-Sept). Fine with me.
gumtree, the deal I have with my farmer is a “free” lease. He does all the paperwork so that its legally considered agricultural land. My taxes are so much lower because of this, that everyone sees it as a win-win situation. And I don’t have to mow 40 extra acres! I believe that’s his agreement with all his leases. This could be very different where you live. Sorry I can’t help you on that one.
[QUOTE=dressagegirl123;7935442]
Ok, I see. I’ll be building my house, indoor, outdoor, barn, hay shed, riding field and pastures on about 20 acres. Any free space will go to hay. I spoke to the Rutgers county extension ag guy, who will come see the farm in January when I go up. He’ll run a soil sample, and knows “my” farmer well. Its nice when you move into an area where agriculture is valued, and everyone works together.
He also recommended leaving the fields fallow until the optimum time to plant (Aug-Sept). Fine with me.
gumtree, the deal I have with my farmer is a “free” lease. He does all the paperwork so that its legally considered agricultural land. My taxes are so much lower because of this, that everyone sees it as a win-win situation. And I don’t have to mow 40 extra acres! I believe that’s his agreement with all his leases. This could be very different where you live. Sorry I can’t help you on that one.[/QUOTE]
Even though NJ is called the Garden State because of its excellent crop land. Unfortunately is it also the most “paved over state” in the country according to an article I read a while ago. So, I would think those 40 acres would be would bring a premium if leased for the going rate. You would not be out of line to ask/expect the farmer to take this into consideration and deduct his costs, time and equipment use when planting your pastures. Pretty easy to find out what the going rate per acre is for leasing crop land. Write up a X year/s lease contract and apply it towards the cost. I would not continue leasing without some sort of written contract. Even if it is for free, there is no such thing as a free lease so to speak. The contract has to contain a dollar amount. When I give and or receive a “free” horse there is still a Bill of Sale exchanged. “In consideration for $1”. It can be year to year or multi-year. This also protects you from any “liability” issues that may arise.
Quality hay is generally in short supply because there is more money and a lot less hassle growing corn, wheat, soybeans then hay. So less and less land is being used for hay. Especially in NJ. We baled over 150 tons of excellent Orchard/Timothy off of our 50± acre hay filed last season. And that was only 2 cuttings. We usually have 3, but the stand is getting a little old and didn’t want to stress it this year. We’ll get 3 cuttings next year. I use the majority for our horse operation. But what I am selling brings between $225 and $300+. 150 tons at $250 a ton comes to $37,500. Granted you don’t have the equipment, time and expertise but “share cropping” hay is done all the time with land owners. 50-50 to 60-40 depending on the arrangement. 60% to the person cutting comes with them maintaining the stand also. Fertilizing weed control etc. My point is you are giving away quite a few dollars. Which is why I asked the “leasing” price. The farmer is getting a “great deal”. Mowing only takes a few hours and a few dollars in gas a few times a season and doesn’t cost that much to have someone do it. If I were next to you I cut you a “hay deal” in a heat beat. You never know when you might want to use the 40 acres for your own use. If done in hay you just mow it like you would a pasture/field for horses.
I understand the property tax benefits of having your property classified as Agricultural. Ours is also. Though our horse business in this state qualifies as Ag use. But in this state a land owner can lease “farmed” crop land and the property still retains its Ag status. Hay in this state is considered a “crop” I doubt it would be any different in NJ. Just something to think about.
I fully understand “no till” and the environmental benefits. I am an old hippy and was and still am part of the “environmental movement” long before it became “fashionable”. “No Till” applies more towards farming crops that change from year to year. You are planting/growing something that only has to be done once, not year to year. You will get a better “bang for buck” by preparing the grass seed “bed” the way I described IMO. The negative environmental impact should be of little concern. Given the fact that this land is being taking out of “high environmental impact” crop production gives you “green credits”.
As to having this done in the spring or late summer. In our area the results will/should be the same. I don’t care what the extension agents says. Don’t know how many “T-shirts” he has worked and paid for but my drawer is full of them. Some I still “wear” and some I wish I never “bought”. Direct experience, not “advise” experience.
Not trying to tell you what to do. Just things to take into consideration.
[QUOTE=dressagegirl123;7935442]
Ok, I see. I’ll be building my house, indoor, outdoor, barn, hay shed, riding field and pastures on about 20 acres. Any free space will go to hay. I spoke to the Rutgers county extension ag guy, who will come see the farm in January when I go up. He’ll run a soil sample, and knows “my” farmer well. Its nice when you move into an area where agriculture is valued, and everyone works together.
He also recommended leaving the fields fallow until the optimum time to plant (Aug-Sept). Fine with me.
gumtree, the deal I have with my farmer is a “free” lease. He does all the paperwork so that its legally considered agricultural land. My taxes are so much lower because of this, that everyone sees it as a win-win situation. And I don’t have to mow 40 extra acres! I believe that’s his agreement with all his leases. This could be very different where you live. Sorry I can’t help you on that one.[/QUOTE]
Even though NJ is called the Garden State because of its excellent crop land. Unfortunately is it also the most “paved over state” in the country according to an article I read a while ago. So, I would think those 40 acres would be would bring a premium if leased for the going rate. You would not be out of line to ask/expect the farmer to take this into consideration and deduct his costs, time and equipment use when planting your pastures. Pretty easy to find out what the going rate per acre is for leasing crop land. Write up a X year lease contract and apply it towards the cost. I would not continue leasing without some sort of written contract. Even if it is for free, there is such thing as a free lease so to speak. The contract has to contain a dollar amount. When I give and or receive a “free” horse there is still a Bill of Sale exchanged. “In consideration for $1”. It can be year to year or multi-year. This also protects you from any “liability” issues that may arise.
Quality hay is generally in short supply because there is more money and a lot less hassle growing corn, wheat, soybeans then hay so less and less land is being used for hay. Especially in NJ. We baled over 150 tons of excellent Orchard/Timothy off of our 50± acre hay filed last season. And that was only 2 cuttings. We usually have 3, but the stand is getting a little old and didn’t want to stress it this year. We’ll get 3 cuttings next year. I use the majority for our horse operation. But what I am selling brings between $225 and $300+. 150 tons at $250 a ton comes to $37,500. Granted you don’t have the equipment, time and expertise but “share cropping” hay is done all the time with land owners. 50-50 to 60-40 depending on the arrangement. 60% to the person cutting comes with them maintaining the stand also. Fertilizing weed control etc. My point is you are giving away quite a few dollars. You never know when you might want to use the 40 acres for your own use. If done in hay you just mow it like you would a pasture/field for horses.
I understand the property tax benefits of having your property classified as Agricultural. Ours is also. Though our horse business in this state qualifies as Ag use. But in this state a land owner can lease “farmed” crop land and the property still retains its Ag status. Hay in this state is considered a “crop” I doubt it would be any different in NJ. Just something to think about.
I fully understand “no till” and the environmental benefits. I am an old hippy and was and still am part of the “environmental movement” long before it became “fashionable”. “No Till” applies more towards farming crops that change from year to year. You are planting/growing something that only has to be done once not year to year. You will get a better “bang for buck” by preparing the grass seed “bed” the way I described. The negative environmental impact should be of little concern. Given the fact that this land is being taking out of “high environmental impact” crop production gives you “green credits”.
As to having this done in the late winter or late summer. In our area the results will be pretty much the same. I don’t care what the extension agents says. Don’t know how many “T-shirts” he has worked and paid for but my drawer is full of them. Some I still “wear” and some I wish I never “bought”. Direct experience, not “advise” experience.
Not trying to tell you what to do. Just things to take into consideration.
Thanks gumtree! I’m saving all these postings for future reference because I’ll be starting pastures from scratch next year in New Hampshire. Great stuff!
[QUOTE=Major Mark;7936060]
Thanks gumtree! I’m saving all these postings for future reference because I’ll be starting pastures from scratch next year in New Hampshire. Great stuff![/QUOTE]
Thanks!
My advise, comments are based on what I have worked, learned, bought and or paid for in my neck of the woods and with my “type” of horse operation/business. Not from what I have read. Anything on the internet should be taken “with a grain of salt” and or “fact checked” even mine. I make mistakes, I’m not being paid for my time and just “pound them” out in my free time. But unlike most I do give a link to my background. It may apply in part or whole depending on location and type of operation/business. Along with the owner/operator’s expertise.
Have spent a lot of time in NH. Especially in the White Mts. Know them like the back of my hand. It is also where Timothy hay was pretty much first grown/cultivated into what it is today.
