I just want to say this again, since it might have been lost in my post above - removing wood posts requires you to follow behind and refill the holes. Do not forget that step.
Removing step in posts or T-posts the holes close on their own.
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Yeah me too. Which is why it’s super weird that you’re so focused on the strength of the fence, and not the visibility and the ability to keep it hot so the horses stay far clear of it.
My 3 lines of HG tape at 600# a piece will keep a horse in just fine. If they hit it harder than that, they were so committed that nothing would have kept them in, and I’d rather them be on the other side uninjured, than still on the other side and already bleeding/mortally wounded.
ETA: I’ve seen other’s horses go through fences. 1) 4 board wood fence, horse was scratched up but not harmed. 2) 4 board wood fence, horse fatally wounded. 3) panels, horse tried to go over and folded the thing in half, lame afterwards, not sure if he ever came sound. 4) tensile wire, serious degloving from the hock down, not sure if full recovery. 5) Vinyl, no injuries.
The only thing keeping a horse in is their respect of the fence. If they’re in a mindset that they no longer respect it, they’re going through. We are just lucky our horses haven’t tried it yet.
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Yes, this is a possibility. Horses would likely hate it (it is a very big spooky space without retrofitting and would be far from friends in this scenario) but would make a good desensitization opportunity 
And yes, the transition phase from shed row to barn would be tricky. I would likely either 1) fence full pasture and put in secondary run in where I want it (far from barn) before the full build and then have an annoying couple months or 2) send the horses on vacation for a bit.
Would probably build the shed row ourselves to make sure the roof pitch would be correct for an eventual conversion, and get the overhang we want but have surly been looking into the prefab ones as well. Though, perhaps I’m naive, but the prices on the prefabs I’m seeing seem fairly high
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Are you guys handy/construction folks? There’s a lot of labor in a build, and your time has a price.
Yes, husband and retired father are certainly capable of building it. As you note, question is just how long it ultimately takes
ETA: I am also fairly handy, I shouldn’t imply that I am dependent on the men in my life!
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You’re coming into a bad time of year to build, too. If you need to move your horses quickly, you’re a bit up the creek in either case, unless you have the $$ to purchase a shed structure now. Those you can get off the lot and have delivered in a week or two.
Because both you and JB have had this fence come down with events that AREN’T horses running full out at the fence.
Horses doing normal boring horse things shouldn’t = fence that comes apart. At least not if it’s the only fence keeping horses in.
It’s super weird to me that you’ve also never had horses go through the fence, but are so focused on having a fence that won’t injure if it does happen that you install something that comes down with normal, non catastrophic, events.
Although your perimeter is no climb or v mesh right? So your horses aren’t just free to leave the property if they yank down a run of tape. Which is really a whole different use case than having it be the only fence.
I absolutely wanted that fence to break instead of tangling my pony in it and causing serious issues. If that were something with a higher tensile strength, I might not have a pony. She stood up UNDERNEATH the fence, which is what took the top line out.
Look, if you are happy with your fence, great. Its a rope, untensioned, with a 1200# break strength. Doesn’t sound very good on paper. I personally know people who have had injuries with it when their horse got tangled. So, no thank you.
You like it? Great. If one of your horses commits to going through it, they still will.
My no climb is to keep my dogs in and other’s dogs out. I, and my pocket book, would have LOVED to use HG all the way around.
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Yes, it would likely have to wait until spring, which I think would be ok with likely timing of sale of current place but might be tight. We do have plenty cash to just buy one if we have to, but wouldn’t be a super prudent decision as I’ve just left my high paying job to go back to school lol
The process would not be able to start immediately in any event, as the fields are currently leased to a farmer and are in soy. We’d have to work out a new lease excluding the acres I want for pasture after they’re harvested this fall
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What are you even talking about? Electrobraid? Electrobraid is under tension. Horses bounce off it. If it’s not kept tensioned properly–which requires a tool like a little come along, it’s not just by hand–it can absolutely be a hazard. Which is why it does require some attention.
It doesnt require bracing, per your link. So no, it is not tensioned.
This link?
https://www.electrobraid.com/manual.html#g
That says?
BRACING
ElectroBraid® is a tension system that requires proper bracing. When the braid lines terminate at an end post or change direction at a corner post, you must ensure those post foundations are rock solid. They must be strong enough to withstand the forces transmitted if a horse were to strike the fence at speed, and resist the tendency to shift under the strain you’ll provide making the line taut. For that, you’ll have to ensure these posts are properly braced.
Oh man, I stand corrected. You mentioned concrete, not bracing.
But let’s just get real - you tension this stuff by hand. You dont need a tool, you just pull the other end, by hand (same as HG). It is not actually tensioned, not like wire needs to be. (And you shouldnt/can’t or you will fray the rope).
Also, you can run corners with this stuff through insulators on the INSIDE of the posts. Its not that tight.
Caught this gem though:
“The recommended distance between line posts is 30-40 feet.”
Suuuure. Its the fence keeping the horses in, not the electric!
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As you are checking possibilities out, do ask bigger barn builders that use modular barns for their opinions.
Some like MD barns build all kinds of configurations, could build you a small but expandable barn you can add to as time and finances permit.
Their barns are made out of panels, most require a small foundation for the panels to sit on and tie to.
Around here many really old Port-A-Stall modular barns are still being used and are like new.
Several vet clinics have some of those, are easy to wash and disinfect.
Theirs are on a whole concrete pad, not just a foundation.
You may not care for their looks, or prices, but at least you may get more ideas on what you could build.
As for fences, check panels for places you don’t quite know where to put a fence but requires a stout fence. You can later use them in other places.
We have some fences out of panels, others out of the gold standard fence for horses, V-Mesh, others square 2’ x 4’ horse mesh.
We don’t use hot fences where we have permanent fencing and try not to have any horse pasture on a perimeter fence, never knowing what neighbors may put in there, if other horses we may not want ours across the fences.
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You do not. There is a tool. It’s a little come along.
https://www.electrobraid.com/manual.html#l
Look endless, I’m not trying to convince you. That’s not at all why I’m posting. You have a fence you like, and that’s great.
But different fence types have different pros and cons. A fence that comes down easily with horses doing very normal horse things might be fine for one person and not at all okay for another person, depending on their own set up, location, and appetite for risk.
There are places people keep horses where getting out of the fence and off the property comes with very heady risks. There are places where it’s far less of a concern.
For someone who is already concerned about lack of a perimeter fence, something this break away may be a poor choice. There are other types of fence that are more likely to keep a horse in, and less likely to come down in a way that there is suddenly NO fence. They come with their own pros and cons, too.
I use breakaway halters in the pasture for grazing muzzles, and I’m not there.
ALL fencing is breakaway at some point. Including wood, including no-climb. At that point it’s a matter of degree.
Not one person suggested or implied it’s a regular thing. It’s a WHEN thing, not an IF thing. YOU don’t want tape, that’s fine. You’re railing on those of us who find it perfectly acceptable. Nobody’s railing on you for preferring wood.
Why is that weird? it’s OUR experiences, and not just once, and it IS more likely they’ll be uninjured, or at least not badly, going through tape than through braid/wire/board.
Ever seen a horse break a leg because he rolled next to a wood fence and got his leg hung up and broke both his leg and the fence struggling to get up? I have. COULD that happen with tape? I’m sure it could. MY horse is was prone to rolling too close to things. He regularly got cast in his stall as a 2-3yo. He actually rolled into my fence twice, the other time he broke a post but was unhurt. He was that special.
We get it - you think tape as perimeter is a dumb idea. It’s not your farm, not your property, you’ve listed all the reasons you think it’s stupid, and anyone gets to decide which risks they’re willing to live with. Nobody has told you preferring solid board or other “solid” fencing is stupid, OR said that tape is the only way
Good luck Ziggy, choosing from your fencing options 
One thing you could consider is getting smaller sections of a couple different fence types for your temp pasture, and see what you like best over the time you have it.
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Hire it out. Especially if you have a non horsy husband. They will do a better job and save your marriage potentially
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Right in your link, for those who can read. It is absolutely not a come along. All it does is hold the rope, you tension it BY HAND.
"After installing a strand of braid, you can apply the ElectroBraid® tensioning device.
Position the clamp on the strand you are tensioning and attach the ratchet as shown.
Wrap the end of the ratchet rope with the “S” Hook around the post and fasten it to the ratchet rope.
Pull as hard as you can. Do not tension the braid with a tractor, come-along or any other mechanical device. Don’t worry about over-tensioning when tightening by hand. When you can’t pull anymore, loosen the split bolt connector, pull out the slack you have created and re-tighten the split bolt connector. To release the ratchet, apply pressure to the ratchet rope while pressing on the ratchet’s release tab and allow the rope to slide out carefully."
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As someone who has maintained and tensioned this fence, I assure you that that tensioner tool yields a “high tension” fence.
But okay, sure. It’s not braced, not tensioned, and there’s no tool. Whatever you say 
I remember when I learned the difference between a 3rd hand tool and a come along.
Sorry for delivering some truth to your fencing myths. 
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