BroncoMo is right that OEM is not the same as genuine. OEM components are not always built to the exact specs, despite what your Advanced Auto/Autozone/NASA clerk tells you. Most OEM parts are outsourced to external companies.
It matters. I had to go genuine with a CV arm assembly as OEM didn’t work. I could see it not working in some track bars, too.
Aftermarket is something else.
Thanks. Not to detract from the origin of the thread with the tangent. I don’t care to argue or go do a bunch of googling to find the verbiage on the parts that describe them as OEM 
As long as the gist is clear: generic parts at X auto parts store are not the same specs as what you get at the dealership parts department, and with steering components, everything should be extremely close tolerance. Slop = prematurely worn parts = death wobble.
I don’t know if this is true of Fords.
My wrenching experience is largely with BMW’s. BMW sources OEM parts from multiple manufacturers. It is not unusual to see three cars that are the same year and model have parts, water pumps for example, that are 3 different brands, but all are considered OEM and were installed by the factory.
And in the wrenching world of older BMW’s, certain OEM brands are considered to be much better than others for reliability and performance.
OEM-quality does not equal OEM. Sure it’s dishonest (imo) marketing, but saying don’t buy OEM is like saying don’t go to Ford to buy your parts, because that (Ford) is where you are going to find actual Ford OEM parts.
No, OEM parts ARE genuine. OEM-quality-blah-blah that you get from whatever general auto supply store are NOT OEM.
Do you actually think that manufacturers make every widget for every item they manufacture? They are assembly plants who get parts for whatever vehicle custom-made by companies who specialize in particular types of widgets. OEM (not OEM-quality-blah-blah) parts are parts that come from the companies who originally made them for the manufacturer of the vehicle.
I’m starting to understand OEMs’ general aggravation with Right to Repair laws 
and kinda think they would have greater luck trying to push through getting after market manufacturers to have to use clearer language on their packaging and marketing.
Definitely true for BMWs, at least in my experience with our 2001 BMW. I had to replace the MAF sensor in and walked home with two different OEM sensors that were all slightly different from the one (stock/genuine) pulled out of the car.
You are mistaken. There is a difference between Genuine, OEM, and Aftermarket. Those who have to work on their own cars know this. Those who don’t google. There’s nothing wrong with googling but please don’t come into a thread where people have real life experience with OEM parts not being identical as genuine/stock components and tell them they’re wrong. It’s annoying enough I gotta return the (OEM) pulley tensioner I bought because it isn’t exactly the same as what I just pulled out of the car. 
Come to think of this, this really happens to me all the time - but usually the difference in components is really minor and it still works. That’s what I get for owning cars that are old enough to vote.
Also - non-OEM does not necessarily mean poorer quality.
I know a lot of guys that foxed their death wobble with full Carly suspension and steering replacements. But get ready to pay for that $$$.
Also, for anyone gloating that they don’t have a Ford so this isn’t a problem for them - this problem spans all brands.
Here’s what it looks like from the outside.
Nope. The only difference between “genuine” and OEM is the packaging. After market is totally different. After market parts are made by non-OEM companies who buy the rights to make whatever part and they may indeed not be to as close specifications as OEM parts.
Or, they may be to a tighter/tougher spec.
A suncoast transmission for my truck isn’t OEM, but I won’t turn one down because it’s a million times tougher than the 68RFE it came with…
(and it’s a cool 10k+ lol)
Non OEM certainly can be an upgrade for many components. I do hear of people often who upgrade their entire steering system to a high dollar aftermarket, which induces the death wobble. Granted there’s likely to be other variables at play; lift kits, leveling kits, track bar drop brackets, etc.
I’m sure there are combinations of aftermarket parts that will work to upgrade the steering and be just fine. As you said, much $$$. The generic one for one swap parts you get at X auto parts store just don’t seem to do it.
Bingo.
Change some, but not all, of the geometry of the suspension, and get ready for problems.
I see coworkers messing with various suspension kits and I cringe. I’m like I just want my stock or slightly upgrade stock parts to work and work safely. Don’t need to be screwing with the geometry of it.
I leveled my truck, knowing what the risks were. I was prepared to go Carly if needed.
touch wood, no problems.
ETA: I did put an adjustable track bar on at that time, because the leveling makes the wheels offcenter by 3/4". <-- suspension geometry
This whole thing has taken a weird turn and sorry, OP, for the derail.
Just know that I’ve taken measurements of two brand new out of the box track bars, the slop of the attach point ID measurement is enough to make a difference. Point blank, get the track bar (and other steering items) at the dealership.
An adjustable track bar was/is still on my radar, as is a dual stabilizer if the problem were to continue. But I was just happy that it went away and decided to leave well enough alone.
I’ve heard great things about the adjustable track bar but I assume it comes with a learning curve. And the inside diameter BETTER be the same as “genuine” parts, or it would go in the box and get sent back.
It was really simple. Like everything else on my truck, the torquing specs are “tighten till you poop your pants, then another 1/4 turn” but otherwise no issues.
In my line of work we call it “brute force and ignorance” 
OK, they want to replace the steering dampener which is part of the extended recall by Ford. My tires have 45K on them (low tread) we live on a gravel road and most all of my horse hauling involves a gravel road. Replacing those two things and aligning the tires fixes the problem most all the time in this dealership’s experience.
Are there any questions I need to make sure to ask the techs? Ask if they checked ALL the steering components??
Pretty much. Ask them to specifically check the track bar and tie rod ends. I’m not sure how many miles are on this truck but drag link would be worth a check.
Hate to put a damper (pun intended… steering stabilizer… please don’t vote me off the island…) on things, but it’s very possible the stabilizer and tires don’t fix it. Any time I’ve been told replace tires, and I do it, it doesn’t fix it. Just drive defensively and perhaps take it for a test drive over that bridge seam you spoke about up thread to see if it feels ok.
LOL, not voting you off the island!! The truck itself has 66K miles and the tires had 50K on them. Heavy duty Michelins were on it and we put new ones back on. Ouch $$$$.
I had to go way deep into the city today which meant interstate for 20 miles and the truck did fine. Good idea to go back to that bridge and see if it happens again albeit the steering stabilizer isn’t installed yet.
Thank you again for your insight.
I have a 2012 ford f250 lariat. Had the same issues pulling a trailer. Spent 8 months and many replaced parts, still had issues. Took to Ford and they said to replace the new OEM steering dampener with the Ford brand and what do you know, it worked! It’s been almost a year with no death wobble.
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