Headstalls built to work hard- and last, do they exist?

[aktill]

Good leather is still very much available, most people have just developed a habit of seeing it as “too expensive”. When we got a sellier to make a nice dressage bridle, I asked her to send me a few scraps out of interest, and true english bridle is still as nice as ever.

One issue today is people are brainwashed into thinking that soft=good. Good bridle leather starts out pretty stiff, and only gets supple with age and use. I laugh when I see tack nowadays with crappy (but soft) leather over a synthetic core…mfgrs just making what (uninformed) people want.

On the western front, I’ve yet to find an instance where a canvas rub rag, block of saddle soap, and a cake of beeswax won’t end up with a lusterous edge with a good dose of elbow grease. That’s on good leather, however, not the stuff you find in most tack store items (even Herman Oak has grades…)

Hand sewn gear is more expensive, but so is buying a new bridle every few years.

[craz4crtrs]

Buckaroo leather…beautiful working tack.

[Bombproof]

I made my own out of 3/4" latigo. It’s not “soft,” but it’s very flexible and almost indestructible. I’ve used it for about 2 years and haven’t seen any disadvantage compared to one made of “bridle” leather. If you decide to have one made, talk to the saddler about different types of leather. In the overall scheme of things, a bridle doesn’t require a lot of leather and the price difference between “good enough” and “just what I wanted” isn’t that large.

[beau159]

I’ve always had good luck with harness leather headstalls.

I can’t find the exact one on the internet, but they look similar to this:
http://www.teskeys.com/teskeys-harness-leather-corssover-browband-headstall.html

I believe the two that I have are Weaver Stacy Westfall. My local tack shop had them. The leather is real nice and soft, but at the same time nice and thick to hold up to wear and tear.

My tack gets daily use with lots of sweat, and it’s held up great. However, I do take care to clean it really well twice a year and moisturize it.

[aktill]

[QUOTE=Bombproof;7830106]
I made my own out of 3/4" latigo… I’ve used it for about 2 years and haven’t seen any disadvantage compared to one made of “bridle” leather. [/QUOTE]

Here are the differences, for those that aren’t familiar:
http://blog.orionleathercompany.com/2013/04/leather-buying-guide-part-2-full-grain.html

One disadvantage I’ve found with latigo (which is very sweat resistant and often used to line things like bridles) is that it’s not as colour fast as bridle. As such, owners of light horses might get a “surprise” after untacking, with burgandy latigo doing a good impression of blood in fur lol.

I have a light appy-type horse, and my wife a grey. Both get bridle leather (english) or skirting leather lined (western) bridles as a result.

This one is stamped, so needed veg-tan leather. Lined with same…could have used oil-tan. All hand stitched:
http://www.easphotography.com/Winchester/IMG_4927.JPG

[Bombproof]

[QUOTE=aktill;7830343]
Here are the differences, for those that aren’t familiar:
http://blog.orionleathercompany.com/2013/04/leather-buying-guide-part-2-full-grain.html

One disadvantage I’ve found with latigo (which is very sweat resistant and often used to line things like bridles) is that it’s not as colour fast as bridle. As such, owners of light horses might get a “surprise” after untacking, with burgandy latigo doing a good impression of blood in fur lol.

I have a light appy-type horse, and my wife a grey. Both get bridle leather (english) or skirting leather lined (western) bridles as a result.

This one is stamped, so needed veg-tan leather. Lined with same…could have used oil-tan. All hand stitched:
http://www.easphotography.com/Winchester/IMG_4927.JPG[/QUOTE]

Good point about the color “leakage.” My horse was dark brown so you couldn’t even see it on her. Nor did I care, since I didn’t show. I just wanted something that would hold up to being used hard. Also, I was able to cannibalize the leather from a broken girth latigo. I hate to waste things.

Veg-tan and oil-tan are fine. It’s really about the quality of the hide they started with. It’s not worth cheaping-out on the quality of the leather because if you do, you’ll just end up replacing it pretty soon.

[AdAblurr02]

CLB15, shoot me a PM and I’ll friend you up then I can introduce you to a few folks. A few will have an online presence, but not most of them - FB page will be minimal for most of them. My own, for instance - a stolen page of our farm website, and a dedicated FB page for the leather work. Small potatoes, but GOOD potatoes

[KBC]

I bought a Martins Saddlery Headstall when I got fed up with the cheap throwaway stuff, I really like it. http://www.equibrand.com/Martin-Saddlery-d4/Headstalls-c17/ nice quality feel to all parts

[Aces_N_Eights]

My husband makes ours and we also buy a few browband headstalls for our snaffle bit outfits from Bill Black(yes, the rawhide braider) he makes nice hobbles too. They are big 1"- 1.5" lined and stitched browband headstalls with cart buckles adjustments on both sides, the throat latch has double buckles as well. You can get them with tie ends or Chicago screws. Nothing fancy but tough. Can’t remember the price of the top of my head but if I had to guess, $80-$120.
I manage to break a snaffle bit outfit one a year and I haven’t tore those headstalls up yet.

[TheHunterKid90]

Cheney leather products. I will never buy anything else. Headstalls are $50-$75. They sell the best reins, off billets, belts, etc. The leather is like butter and holds up forever.