four foot door…
Is that a decent size door and ramp for a side exit?
(they can build 4, 5 or 6 foot side doors)
What size are doors on horse stalls?
Then I’d be in touch with a fabricator who will make bars for the windows, that you install aftermarket.
Maybe I’ve hauled too many fractious ones who have kicked/bumped and dented the bars and would have shattered the window without the bars there (with who knows how bad of injury).
No way would I haul anything in a trailer with windows and no bars, especially any windows that might be at their butts. That’s just asking for it.
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nor would i endlessclimb,
I would get a solid wall before bus without bars. But i don’t want that.
I have a few levers left to pull before giving up though. I now know a guy at the manufacturing company. I will call him for help if the salesperson at the dealer can’t get it done for me.
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I’m sure you can buy the bars if you’ve got the dimensions. Horses tear those things up all the time. Can’t be hard to install either.
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googling that good idea as we speak! tks.
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Yes. Most side doors I’ve seen on 2 horse and 2+1 trailers are 46" to 54" standard.
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Thanks 
HA!! I’m gonna get my two dropdown windows (with bars) on rear door! yay.
Getting the 4’ ramp-side door too.
Anyone have experience with: There is this “Sure-foot flooring” (same as WERM) but their floor is light colored. has a 7yr warranty, so that’s good. Anyone familiar with this kind of flooring? How does it hold up to excessive pawing (thinking of YOU muleboy and YOU bad mare)
Question for Creative Thinkers: The final bump in the road is how everyone (all manufactures it seems!) handle wheel wells when i bump out sides to widen to 90" (instead of standard 80"). What everyone does (incl my guys) is this: (i call it the shin splint feature lol)
It doesn’t hold up at all. I had WERM and lost about 1/8"+ of the floor on one 3 hour trip due to a dedicated pawer. I ended up putting a thin mat over the WERM to protect from such damage.
o my gosh!!! i’m so glad i asked! (extra cost is 1,855). The rubber mats i have in my old one are as good as new with my two awful ones after 17 years. Think i’ll stick with that!
thank you thank you
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Seems that since i’m getting “rumber” boards again i needn’t ever worry about pulling the mats and pressure washing subfloor unless i want to! They say it’s totally unnecessary as moisture (of any kind) does nothing to harm and since they’re tongue n groove, no water leaks down through to the steel framing anyway. And the rumber is a good insulator for vibration and pavement heat. Add mats atop and voila, a good ‘forever’ floor.
Almost everything is set, i’m almost ready to get a contract and send a deposit. I just need an answer on wheels and on placement of roof vents.
18’ gooseneck steel trailer
7’6" wide, interior wheel wells covered with mats
step-up rear w/rubber bumper
rubber board floor covered with mats
kickmats all around interior
3’ tackroom, mat on floor carpet on goose part
with 25gal water tank, 3 saddle rack, blanket bars, bridle hooks
Walk through door from front stall into tackroom
4’ramp (with separate door above) off drivers side of front stall
Center divider (that swings and latches either open or closed)
big bus windows on gooseneck and a/c mountable(a/c not incl) vent
8 drop down windows
3 roof vents
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Can your dressing room door to the outside be hinged the other way?
The way you have it situated is called “suicide” (not my name, lol, sorry) because the air resistance driving down the road is trying to open the door.
If at all possible, doors should be hinged to avoid this.
EDIT: Same with the ramp top door, hinge it the other way.
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Also, I don’t know the closure for the ramp top door or how tall you are, but consider cam latch with an extension down lower, so you don’t have to clamor around to get it open.
Like so:
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Oh, i didnt’ know. i just mocked this up myself just now. I will SURELY make sure they are hinged correctly! Thank you thank you!!!
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Whoops, nevermind on the ramp top door, it’s hinged correctly on your drawing. Flip the dressing room door though!
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God, sorry for blowing up your thread -
the walk through door to the horse area will almost surely open INTO the horse area, not into the dressing room. Don’t want a horse to shove it open, or be limited on what you can store in there because you need to account for door swing.
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This is from mid-fabrication on someone else’s trailer. before finishing and before. painting…but this is how it will be hinged and latched. Entire trailer is steel EXCEPT this ramp. (because weight i guess)
Are there any cam latches on their trailers, or is everything paddle latched?
With the paddle, you can’t really get the handle down low. That door is going to be an annoying booger to open as it stands - you’ll have to clamor around to get to the latch, and then basically jump-slap it until it’s open all the way. If there’s any tie back, you’ll have to jump-slap it off of there.
With a cam latch, you open it at a normal height, then you have a nice handle to walk it over to the tie back.
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i have these latches on the exit and rear door on my existing trailer and the main problem i have with them is they allow too much wiggle/noise. Soooooo…being a shepherd and having piles of fleece, i stuff them. As for weight! omg… my steel ramp on the back door is reinforced with a panel of steel then a rubber mat…and when i rinse out my trailer (every single time as soon as i get home…) the water runs down in there adding even MORE weight, and then!@@@. THEN i have to lift it up, on a hill. I get it kinda up, get my shoulder under it, then my head then walk it up. It’s gotta weight 250 pounds. So, after 17 years of that, any little 4’ aluminum ramp is gonna be a piece o cake.
and lol…not blowingUp!! you’re giving me very good, thoughtful information. Which i appreciate very much
as for which ways all the doors open, etc. I had zero idea how they are made to open, i was just doing a to-scale drawring. I will ask these door opening quesitons to the dealer (poor woman, she’s taken to drinking her lunch with me i’m afraid LOL)
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