Hotcote fencing safety

So… I have more questions. How are you guys tensioning your ends and corners? There are a few options out there. Kencove’s end versions look a little more horse friendly to me than Centaur’s do.

Kencove’s corners are all about this, and then there are these and these.

And final decision is 5 strands of Centaurs version of Hotcote, with recycled Horseguard as a 6th top strand.

Phaxxton, I think maybe the horse you knew who got injured was in Equifence which is medium tensile instead of high so isn’t installed with the same amount of tension as Hotcote and White Lightning are. I hope so anyway.

CoolMeadows, you’re certainly doing your homework!

The Safety-Loop Connector is new and think we’re going to add them for the termination–the end without a tensioner for PolyPlus. The round tensioner–not so enthused about–it’s an inline (between posts) tensioner rather than one that attaches to the post which puts them more out of the way.

The lasso like insulated tensioner you pictured is not Centaur’s but they have
one similar. Many folks also use these for PolyPlus. You can also use for the
PolyPlus a tensioner without the lasso and attach to post with a 5-inch ring shank nail or a lag bolt.

The corner collars are also somewhat new and ordered a bag to see what these
were like–kinda cool. But you may still need some Insultube for the areas where the White Lightning touches a post or brace.

The one corner donut type insulator doesn’t look like it is geared for coated wire.
The lag bolt corner insulator would be more suitable. DH feels the most secure way is the older way of running the White Lightning around the outside of the corner post, using a length of insultube to insulate it from the corner post and any brace posts.

PM me if you would like an installation DVD–it’s divided into sections for the different types of fencing. Might answer some questions for you.

Thank you! Going to send you a PM. I would love to see the CD, that would help a ton. There are so many different versions out there of the correct way to install! I only want to put this stuff up once and I want to be happy with it when it’s done so I’m annoying the @#$! out of anyone who knows about this kind of stuff (you guys and the very patient fence reps) :winkgrin:

I like the look of the corner collars too, thanks for the tip on using tubing with them.

Okay you need more than just hotcote - you need a seriously powerful zapper with an excellent grounding system. I got in an electrician to help my husband with the grounding system on my fencing - three ground rods driven 8 feet into the ground. I keep the ground around those ground rods very wet and they are enclosed in a perimeter chain-link fence to keep people and animals out - touching a ground rod that happens to get activated is a great way to get dead. Also periodically the electrician and my husband installed extra ground rods throughout the perimeter areas because we have a lot of acreage to cover.

But the whole point of this is you need some serious zapping power. It is NOT too much to consider 15,000 volts for a horse.

The zap doesn’t come from the zapper. The zap is strongly dependent upon the grounding system. The better the ground, the more reliable and better the zapping system becomes.

My horses absolutely FEAR my fence far more than anything another horse or object can do to them. They will always turn in a different direction than my fence. At the farthest point in our 60 acres, our fence registers a 12,000 volt power zap. Closest to the grounding system and zapper, it registers 15,000volts on the tester.

There is nothing safer for your horse than a fence your horse fears more than any other possible monster.

Also, NEVER turn off your electric fence. Periodically turning off an electric fence to “save money”, teaches a horse to test the fence. This is just asking for very expensive vet bills when the horse spooks or tries to get away from another horse and they have learned that sometimes the fence isn’t on so they become willing to risk trying to run through it or attempt to go over it.

If you have electric fencing, just accept the cost of running it 24/7/365. Period.

My gelding (now deceased) was a Werther grandson. The boy was a powerhouse and could jump. We watched him clear a 6-1/2 foot fence taking 1 stride from a stand still, just 'cuz he felt like it - when you have a horse like that, this is a problem! But, put him inside a 4 foot fence topped with electricity and he would never consider it. Ever. You couldn’t get him within 5 feet of the fence. In his mind, that zap could get him no matter where he was. He became very alarmed if he ever heard it zap and would back away snorting.

Hotcote is white, correct? It has very high visibility, but I would add a solid white top rail with very high breaking strength and top that with yet another electrified strand. Better yet, is no-climb mesh fencing with a top rail, topped again with electricity. But if you go with hotcote fencing, plan for 4 strands - top strand hot, 2nd strand ground, 3rd and 4th strands hot. The ground strand allows a double zapability system - no matter what line they touch, they will get zapped. Should they somehow be airborne and touch the fence, the ground strand will still activate and they will be zapped. Obviously with their hooves on the dirt, touching any strand will activate the zap.

On a perimeter fence with a powerful zap, you should post warning signs every X feet. Otherwise, some kindly elderly person could reach across the fence to pet the pretty noses and the zap would stop their pacemaker. Seriously. It would destroy a pacemaker and that might cause their death.

Check your zapper to make sure it has ultra-impedence. This means, no matter if shrubs, tall grass, whatever, are touching the fence, the current will still flow. Also choose a zapper that has enough juice to do double the miles you have for your fenceline. When you’re adding more than 2 strands, the mileage adds up pretty impressively.

PS: You also need to install a system to protect your zapper should lightning strike your fence. Lightning very keenly follows an electric fenceline right back to your zapper. The last thing you need is an explosion inside your barn or wherever you happen to have the zapper. Ever seen a transformer blow up when struck? Zappers can do similar, albeit is a smaller version of said explosion, but enough to cause considerable excitement!

I did not know that a ground rod could be dangerous! I’ll get mine fenced off also!

:no:

A good solar charger (I like Parmac) that is well grounded with three ground rods is fine and those ground robs hooked to a good solar charger are not Satanic Rods of Instantaneous Smoking Death. Good heavens what’s going to happen, are you going to sit down in wet grass holding an infant who happens to have a pacemaker, maybe while you also submerge your left arm in a bucket of water…AND touch the ground rods? Really?

You don’t need horses to be deathly afraid of your fence. That’s nonsense. They need to respect it, not pancake you because you led them too close to a fence line. I DO agree with leave it on, 24/7. Don’t put guesswork into fence management.

Four strands of white hot cote is plenty of fence. Or five. If four, heat up the top and the 2nd from the bottom. If five, heat up 2nd, 3rd, and top. Six is overkill and you’ll play hell keeping vegetation off the bottom if you go with 6 strands. String surveyor’s tape from it so they KNOW it’s there then take it off. They’ll know where the fence is.

buy some of those clip on ‘yeah, I’m on’ blinkie things so you can see at a distance if the fence is on.

Done.

I would say definitely for her height, but I measured out 6 for a 5 1/2’ fence and it was what I consider “normal”. I think the problem is putting it too close to the ground. That’s when you have vegetation problems. I could put 4 or 6, but if they’re 3" off the ground you’re going to have the same problems.

… and I didn’t know if you were talking about my mention of 6 strands or not… just wanted to throw that out there in case there were others reading interested in the same fencing.

[QUOTE=dmalbone;4641083]
… and I didn’t know if you were talking about my mention of 6 strands or not… just wanted to throw that out there in case there were others reading interested in the same fencing.[/QUOTE]

gotcha- i missed the detail on the covers being 54" tall. I was thinking normal t posts, which would mean like a 4’ tall fence or so.

I’d have my corners professionally installed. Too much work for two peeps on a weekend lol :slight_smile:

Yes, you can use t-posts with the Centaur coated wire both PolyPlus & WhiteLighting. My friend just bought a farm and did a ton of research on horse fence. She wanted something affordable and SAFE she ended up after all her research going with ElectroBraid. You can also use T-posts for ElectrBraid as well. If she would have had a little bit bigger budget she would have gone with HotRail to get that board like look with the safety of electric. I’m so glad that horse owners are seeking safer fence options and hopefully these beautiful animals will suffer less injuries because of that!

On February 13, 2017 I lost my 13-year-old beloved horse to an injury on a hot coat fence. From what I observed it look like he had rolled over into the second to the bottom wire, it was electrified, he must’ve started getting shocked and started flailing wildly. He was a heavy horse, about 1600 pounds, and somehow his leg wrapped around the wire, stripped the coating off of it and it cut everything down to the bone. That morning I found him walking around on the stump of his fetlock. At that point there was nothing left to do but put him out of his misery. This wire is not supposed to cut horses leg to this extreme, if at all. I have had incidents with stallions where they bent the wire, but it was never stripped down to the bare wire.
I am now considering searching out legal counsel to see if I can replace him at least monetarily. A loss like this cannot be replaced. I was wondering if anybody else out there had this sort of incident or anything close to it.

MLDemp, that is such a tragic story. I can only imagine how you must have felt when you found him.

I have never heard of anyone having such an injury with the coated wire. I have heard horror stories about smooth high tensile and barbed wire and even the polyrope and electobraid fencing.

I’ve had the coated hot wire in our larger pastures for almost 10 years and never had an injury. After we first installed the fence I saw one horse come downhill at a dead run. He couldn’t stop in time before hitting the fence. He tried a last second turn, hit the fence between posts, fell on the fence, and flipped over to the other side. One of his legs went between the bottom two wires and it wrapped around his leg as he flipped over. However, the insulators broke and the wires went slack. The wire grounded out when it came off the posts so he didn’t continue getting shocked and as the electricity pulses through the wire, I’m not even sure he got a shock to begin with as it happened so fast. When he stood the loose wire enabled him to get his leg out. He came away unscathed if a bit shaken (I was too). He has never tried that again.

Your guy must have really twisted the wire around his leg somehow and struggled hard to have stripped the coating off the wire. When we installed the fence, it wasn’t easy to get remove the coating to attach it to the end strainers. It required a really sharp wire stripping tool and a lot of concerted effort to get enough off.