I do hear you on the concern on the pins but they drive into the ground flat. I counted mine on each piece and when I pulled it up got them all. No issues. The bricks would move and not work it seems to me.
Butane torch (no need to actually burn the weeds, a quick scorch is all thatās needed) and spray/water with hortucultural vinegar (I think itās 10% acid)
Could you put up a product idea on this? I do have grass on my dry lot that Iād to kill and want to see what you are talking about.
30% around here is available without a problem, I use that for weeds in sensitive areas where I do not want to expose dogs, goats or horses to a chemical
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Round up. Maybe? We usually do the fenceline with it to reduce weeds.
It is sunny today, so Iām going to try spraying with 30% vinegar with a squirt of dish soap. Will report back in a few days!
I love how everyone thinks 30% (or even 10%!) vinegar is not a chemical. Wear your PPE, OP, and keep that strong acid off of things you donāt want it on/things that it can corrode.
Why It Can Be Dangerous to Use Vinegar to Kill Weeds
Microsoft Word - 30% Vinegar Home & Garden (30% Acetic Acid) SDS
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If someone tries to convince you to add salt to your vinegar and Dawn mix, donāt. Yes, itāll really help kill the grass, but 1) itās not needed with the 30% vinegar, and worse, 2) itāll keep anything from growing for a very long time, which isnāt ok if you ever want grass back there again
And 100% take precautions when using 30% vinegar, that stuff is a highly acidic chemical
30% acetic acid has a pH about 1.5% which isnāt much higher than the higher range of hydrochloric acid
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Yeah, I saw the recipes that included salt or epsom salts and didnāt want to damage the soil that bad. I wore proper PPE (long chemical gloves, safety glasses, respirator, long pants and sleeves).
I was pretty surprised that my jug of vinegar covered almost the entire fence line spraying moderately heavy. I should be able to do a lighter spray next time and get it all. The grass was already getting crispy and brown about two hours after spraying, so it is looking good so far.
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If you have an extra stall mat, put that on top of the grass you want to kill. Give it a few days with sunny weather and your grass will die.
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Pretend that you want it to grow there. Iāve always found that wherever I wanted grass to grow, it would die.
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I am sorry for saying butane. In the greater picture the fuel probably does not matter much
As far as my knowledge goes, 10% is plenty strong.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Harris-30-1-Gallon-Vinegar-Liquid-All-Purpose-Cleaner/5013148033?store=2659&cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--hdw--ggl--CRP_SHP_LIA_HDW_Online_High_Priority(A-D%2BPriority+Items+CL3)--5013148033--local--0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21100902136&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI88v90fnsjQMVmU7_AR3PNSDOEAQYASABEgKy-_D_BwE
so the concentrate goes further.
Handling the 30% or stronger concentrates should warrant some PPE. 10 % is not that much over a canning vinegar though. In ethnic stores you can buy concentrated vinegar for the kitchen, if you donāt want to deal with a whole gallon of the stuff.
There is only one thing I spray with actual weedkiller, and that is Poison Ivy. It is on the march again my my yard. time to saddle the sprayer again.
Roundup is on the index for me. I donāt think it is as harmless as advertised.
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I worry more about broad leaf herbicides than Roundup. But I found a really down side to Roundup. I had some buttercups along the fence line that I sprayed with Roundup. The horses were not interested in eating them at all. But after I sprayed them and they were turning brown and wilting - you would think they were prime alfalfa. So if I have to spray the fence line I use something like PasturePro that is safe for the horseās to eat and surprise! the horses donāt eat the weeds.
Iāve been battling the buttercups by digging them up by hand. What I discovered is that the horses donāt eat them while in the ground, if they come along a wheelbarrow full of them thatās been sitting out for a few days, they are delicious! I did some reading and whatever toxin is in them apparently dissipates after they are cut. I wonder if itās the toxin that makes them bitter.
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Buttercups thrive in an environment where there is a lime deficiency in your soil. There might be some additional required mowing required.
6.0-7.0 pH is ideal for some buttercups to thrive. Same as many grasses, so you need to test the soil before assuming the pH is the issue
I got rid of my buttercups with a tine harrow and heavy reseeding.
Buttercups love compacted soil.
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Recently ordered an herbicide called Torched that is approved for organic farming. Havenāt used it yet, but it is said to kill the roots, not just the top growth. Safe for animals
Active Ingredients (32%)
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (22%)
Clove Oil (5%)
Cornmint Oil (5%)
Inert Ingredients (68%)
Water
(+)-Ethyl Lactate
Soap
Silica
I look forward to the clove scent! Will report how it works.
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I tested my soil last fall and applied a lot of lime. Plan to do the same this fall. I will add aerating like crazy to the to do list.
The buttercups seem to be past their prime. The horses have been grazing in the part that had the most, which they avoided all spring.
Definitely let me know how well it works!
