Hunt Ball Attire for Men

[Romany]

[QUOTE=Major Mark;3673212]
Hmmmm, I haven’t worn pants to a Hunt Ball in years…

Usually the Kilt outfit Black Tie equivalent (black Argyll with bow tie). One year I wore the White Tie outfit (high neck Montrose with lace tie and cuffs) but it seemed to scare the hell out of people and people sorta avoided me that night…well, it could have been the formal wear Dirk (short sword) hanging on my belt. Yup, I love formal wear that features the wearing of weapons.

/before that I wore an onion on my belt, which was the style at the time…[/QUOTE]

“lace tie” - a jabot, you mean, surely? Maybe they were spooked because they thought you were BPC, come back to haunt them.

[altjaeger]

I finally got an email response from the host, but, ha!, I still need help interpreting!

Since our home is more austere than some hunt ball venues, we suggest the gentlemen forgo their scarlet tails. However, should you want to wear your frock coat, Melton, or rat catcher as your coat with a tie then you will likely fit right in.

Based on this, I am thinking that he wants us to wear something hunt-related, but not the normal formal hunting jacket.

[Beverley]

I would take that to mean he DOES want you to wear your hunting coat, since the types of coats he mentions are only for hunting.

[altjaeger]

Well, most of us at my hunt don’t wear frock coats, or Melton coats, (and not ratcatcher for most hunts), is what I meant. The “normal” formal hunt jacket isn’t called a frock, is it? I thought that is a longer style, but not sure. But I gather he would prefer something less formal, even, than a regular suit, (ratcatcher) as long as it is hunt-related. Equibrit would be horrified – might as wear shorts, LOL.

[JSwan]

People in your hunt do wear a frock or hunt coat. There are basically only two types of coats worn in foxhunting. (I won’t go into the shad/weaselbelly thing)

The one commonly referred to as a “Melton” is a black standard 3 button hunt coat (same style as hunter/jumper). “Melton” is actually a type of fabric, not a style of coat. I would hazard a guess that most of your members in an English riding habit are wearing a hunt coat, and in your climate probably a light or medium weight Melton fabric; or perhaps a synthetic fabric. (I think you have mild winters, right?). It also has pockets on both sides.

A hunting frock is a different style; a different cut entirely. They are worn by members who have earned colors. (I think this can vary so others may want to correct me on that point. They are much more expensive (around here a new one can sell for 500-600$) and can be found in a cavalry twill fabric or different weights of Melton fabric. They can also be found in scarlet for staff or gentlemen members. Black or navy blue for ladies.

If you want an easy way to tell, check out the waistline. If there is a seam around the waistline of the coat - it’s a hunting frock. There is a pocket on the right (outside).

Ratcatcher is an entirely different riding habit, and is worn for cubbing only. This is usually a lightweight wool hunt coat in a tweed or patterned fabric in autumn colors. (browns, golds, greens, etc.) The jacket of this habit is also worn to hunt breakfasts or teas after hunting, as it would be rude to wear your mud splattered frock or hunting coat in to someone’s house. (you also remove spurs and clean your boots off)

This is just a nice party. Wear a nice sporty blazer, slacks, shoes, and a nice tie. Like a really nice dinner party. Have a great time.

If you want to see what different cuts of coats look like, here is a link:

http://www.foxhuntingshop.com/catalog/Coats_for_Foxhunting.html

It’s very simple.
A black or navy hunt coat for the formal season, a frock for staff (scarlet) or members with colors (black or navy) for the formal season, and hacking jackets/tweed hunt coats for all members for cubbing.

[altjaeger]

Thanks.

Actually I had consulted that website before posting.

I hunt in a tweed jacket on ratcatchers and what that site refers to as “a hunting jacket” for formal hunts. Since this is lightweight wool, I assume it is NOT a Melton, right? Melton is a heavier wool. (?)

[JSwan]

Have you ever seen felted wool? There are all types of weaves - but Melton fabric is almost felted. It’s not like normal fabric - there is no weave that you can see. It’s very very tightly woven.

Regular fabric unravels when you cut it - Melton does not unravel. It has a nap to it, unlike regular fabric. It’s not the thickness that defines it - it is the method of creating the fabric itself. It’s water resistant and very heavy duty tough fabric.

It also used to be used in military uniforms going back hundreds of years - but I don’t know if that is still true.

It sounds like your current hunting jacket is not a Melton fabric - just a lightweight wool fabric, and your hacking jacket is a tweed.

I have a WWII greatcoat in my hall closet (USN). It belonged to one of my grandfathers. I’m not sure it’s a Melton fabric - but if not it’s pretty close.

[altjaeger]

Okay, let me ask another question (not really related to the ball attire question, since I’m clear on that).

When someone says a “melton” do they mean an actual melton fabric coat, or has it become a generic term for formal hunting coat?

[SidesaddleRider]

Melton means… melton. I’ve never heard it used to refer to anything else but material (and things other than coats are made of melton).

Hunt coats are hunt coats, frocks are frocks. Both are usually made of melton (either light, medium, or heavy weight), but again, I’ve never heard them referred to by that (personally, that would be very confusing for me if someone did that, as I’d have to say, which melton? We’ve 5!).

[altjaeger]

Thanks!