I encourage you to embrace it, perhaps adding some strategic new color. But “Concrete Floor Paint” is a Thing. Google that and pick images.
Um…just paint it. Concrete floor paint. One color. Done.
[QUOTE=purplnurpl;8178979]
yes the latex paint will come up. But the stain sure will not.
And we are talking…I dumped my espresso (basically black) gallon of stain when it was full…twice this winter.
I seriously cleaned up a gallon of stain and then immediately dumped it over again.
(smacks forehead with hand)
my nickname is Champion.[/QUOTE]
I pressured washed my shop/garage floor using an industrial strength cleaner that mixes with the water. Removed oil, which is about the same as a “stain”, paint, glue and various other stuff. I think people under estimate the power of water under high pressure. It’s used to cut steel.
The ease of removal depends on how porous the concrete is/was. The problem with painting a high use floor especially in a barn is it can become a “maintenance hassle”. Depending on use areas may need to be repaint more often than not to keep the “look”. You can’t just paint one area if you want it to look nice. Once you paint it you are going to have to keep painting from time to time.
There’s no turning back without a heck of a lot more work to remove it. Just something to think about.
I used to work for the company that makes this stuff:
http://www.goofoffproducts.com/
It will work. It’s a lot cheaper to not make the mess in the first place, but what’s done is done … this is the stuff that will fix it.
You can try Oops! Most paint stores have it.
Using a solvent on a floor is dangerous… There is a lot of area to evaporate fumes.
I’m for either embracing the floor as is or painting over it.
IF you Really want to have a bare, clean concrete floor… There is a process to get it. I’ve used it on nasty, oiled, pitted, painted, factory floors to prep a floor for refinishing. It’s called Blastrac. :yes: It uses iron shot to blast away the surface. The shot is contained with magnets and vacuum. It’s very clean and dust free.
Sand blasting is messy and leaves people prone to silicosis :eek:
edited to add a video of the process …
link here >> http://www.blastrac.com/applications/
It’s a lot cheaper to not make the mess in the first place, but what’s done is done … this is the stuff that will fix it.
This advice is amazing. This person deserves a champion person award.
[QUOTE=hosspuller;8180758]
Using a solvent on a floor is dangerous… There is a lot of area to evaporate fumes.
I’m for either embracing the floor as is or painting over it.
IF you Really want to have a bare, clean concrete floor… There is a process to get it. I’ve used it on nasty, oiled, pitted, painted, factory floors to prep a floor for refinishing. It’s called Blastrac. :yes: It uses iron shot to blast away the surface. The shot is contained with magnets and vacuum. It’s very clean and dust free.
Sand blasting is messy and leaves people prone to silicosis :eek:
edited to add a video of the process …
link here >> http://www.blastrac.com/applications/[/QUOTE]
Please, are you talking from lots of personal experience of stuff gleamed from the internet?
“Using a solvent on a floor is dangerous… There is a lot of area to evaporate fumes.”
Sorry I am not given to being snarky, but this is a bit of nonsense. First the majority of barns especially in warm weather have LOTS of ventilation. Second, there would have to be a high concentration of “fumes” and a nearby heat source, open flame to have any worries of spontaneous combustion. Third the majority of “solvents” that the average person can buy “over the counter” are a fraction of the strength sold to licensed pros.
“Sand blasting is messy and leaves people prone to silicosis”
Not when the work site is properly “prepped”. As to silicosis, please. The average consumer can’t get their hands on an “industrial strength” sand blaster. Rentals are fairly low pressure and give complete instructions on what to wear and how to operate safely. Even if a person did not wear proper clothing their exposure to the “kick back” would be minimum at worst. You would have to work in the “trades” operate without proper protection over a long period of time to have any worries about developing “silicosis”. That’s like saying anyone that worked in a coal mine for a couple of days, weeks maybe years will come down with black lung disease.
For the record I have a reasonable amount of experience working with solvents and sand blasting.
The “process” you linked to is very good. But pricey and not easily rented. I have had excellent results using a pressure washer. We are talking a barn here. There is a lot of water splashing around. I just buy a box of cheap “thin mil” plastic sheeting and hang with duck tape where I don’t want water. Suck up the “after math” with my wet/dry shop vac.
Gumtree … Do as you will … My industrial experience and OSHA says otherwise.
My husband fixed his airplane hanger floor by painting the floor with some sort of gray epoxy. You can put sand in it and pretend the reason for it is to improve traction.
My concern with painting it one color is that having spilled a mix of stain, latex and possibly other stuff on it, that the color won’t stick in places and the one color will come up in places where the spills are. I have been the victim of someone’s bad paint job on concrete (previous owner of my first home painted the concrete basement floor without prepping it correctly) and it flaked off on my shoes every time I walked on it for years. It was a bit of a nightmare. OP is right not to just slop concrete paint down and assume it will all work out!
Better hire a concrete coating personal
I think it’s better to deal this with the concrete people without ruining your floor further. They will have a good idea regarding which floor coatings may be suitable for you and do things wisely. I had a similar situation in my garage and I hired a concrete coating company at Mississauga, they did well and my floor looks perfect now. Don’t hesitate to take advice from a concrete personal before you do anything.
Great thread. I have a (indoor) mud room that the painters thought was a great place to mix paint for the rest of the house. So I have blobs and circles (the paint that spilled out of the can when it was on the concrete.
I have some old bricks (100 years old) that are very porous and uneven. I am not sure I want them in my mud room, but if I do, would the mortar stick to the painted areas as well as it will stick to the concrete?
Some of the bricks will need to be cut. I have a chop saw and a table saw. What kind of specialty blade will I need and what are the odds that such brick can be cut without breaking apart?
(Sorry to hijack your thread, OP – but perhaps you might think about putting bricks down, too? 
)
