What exactly goes wrong with the changes? Are they late behind? No swap at all? There, but not auto? How do you ask for the change? Do they do changes for other people? Is one way better than the other, and if so, is it consistently one way across all of the horses/ponies or pretty evenly split?
Thanks all for your thoughts. Meupatdoes I love that exercise, I will begin incorporating that as we already do a lot of similar things just on the diagonal.
As far as what is actually happening, each pony is different. For my current mounts, 2 act like I asked for a counter canter. The other is sometimes bringing all 4 feet off the ground and hopping in the air, but maintaining the same lead. The second one has started giving random auto changes in correct places but throws them before I even get around to straightening him out. Each pony has a better side, but it isn’t consistent across mounts.
If the horse has solid changes I am fine asking for them and have limited problems. None of my mounts have ever really given half changes, either they get them back to front or they don’t exist at all, as I generally try hard not to throw the front end around, especially being top-heavy on tiny ponies. Each of the 10+ green ponies I have worked in the last few years have had different change issues. Others/pro’s have all had similar issues with my rides if I can find any pro’s small enough for them.
I wonder if it isn’t something with my seat bones/hips blocking the movement.
I’ve asked head trainer to watch me more carefully, and of course she has tips but doesn’t see anything obvious I am doing to stall out the training. Just tells me to give it time and continue building up their straightness and strength, which of course was my plan, but I get concerned when I see an obvious gap in my education that I can’t fill.
None of these horses are drilled on changes, they might be asked for one each way a week just to see where they are, or I will ask coming off a line to see if they feel like offering one.
Appreciate everyone’s thoughts and exercises, more homework for the ponies!
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This goes against all “proper training”, but teaching changes to baby racehorses is all about straightness and speed. A galloping horse has more air time and wants to be balanced, so the front-to-back change just happens.
Breaking babies in the field, I canter a big circle, find a straight diagonal line (to figure 8), open up the stride, and as the horse realizes we’re changing direction, step to the new outside and open the new inside rein. It will be a fairly noticeable shift in weight on a 15h long yearling/short 2yo, and they typically swap right away without thinking about it. If they muddle through, I try going a little faster and straighter, and make sure I don’t drop my new inside shoulder. I’ve done changes on TB colts within 5 rides under saddle.
When they get to the track, they learn to change coming into and out of the turns; this may require creative angling toward the inner or outer rail, but again at speed they will usually get the change promptly. Jockeys don’t have lower leg or seatbones-- so the horses learn to change with a small weight shift and opening rein (whip only if necessary to bump them over if they hang).
I’m not saying going fast is ideal for a hunter pony, but if you have a lazy one it might be worth a try to go gallop in a field somewhere. See what it takes to get the change using minimal aids and a bit of speed.
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You might not be going forward enough. Sure, nice back to front changes ideally from some idea of collection is correct, but if the issue you are having does not include running/rushing/diving, then you might as a first step do better with a good gallop like the above in a light seat or 2 point.
In parallel, I also like the counter canter walk canter exercise mentioned above. For a more educated horse, I would ride more half pass to the rail versus leg yield when you are ready to try the change, as I think half pass then half halt is a better set up for the hind legs. In addition, you can try this simpler exercise incorporating the diagonal, which also works for the ones that want to rush. Canter across diagonal to X, walk to quarter line, leg yield to rail, get new canter lead. Then progress to not walking until you get to quarter line, leg yield, new lead. This can be done first through trot at X then continue cantering past X to quarter line. Eventually the downward transition to walk becomes a half halt instead. Don’t forget to give with the new inside rein—it can be easy to block the horse with the rein.
Horses that anticipate may also be better to teach to change to the counter canter. Ride the rail, leg yield to quarter line then half halt and ask for change to counter canter. Once that’s good and quiet you can make it a zig zag back to the rail and then change again.
I think though if you think this is largely something about YOU and not the ponies, start with the gallop. Once the pony has an idea about what’s expected, then try change on course, again galloping away from the jump. And then circle back to the other exercises to install the lead change “button”.
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That’s all crap for ponies. Way too much stuff happening, especially with a larger rider on smalls and mediums. Gallop straight in your half seat. Turn with hard outside leg and weight on the outside, still in half seat. Do not overpull the inside rein. Done.
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I grew up riding and helping train hunter ponies. If you think about kids riding little hunter ponies, you need to teach a really easy lead change. A 6 year old isn’t going to be able to ask for a ‘correct’ change. (NOTE: the dressage people will kill you if you use this to teach a dressage horse. But for the Hunter/jumper, this method works just fine).
This is how we would teach them. Get a good working canter going. Canter across your arena middle. The whole time, have a nice bend through your turn. When you are about two strides out from the fence line, when pony’s front feet start to go up in the stride, turn with your outside (now new inside) rein abruptly to the other direction. If you feel like you might run into the fence you are doing it right. As you use that rein, switch your leg position so your new outside leg is behind the girth. Do not use leg.
The first time the pony will change only in the front. Just reward them and walk; we don’t care about the back yet. Quit the ride on this.
(Basically, you are throwing the pony off balance into the lead change. It may shock the pony the first time this happens. You don’t need to be mean with the rein pull, just enough to get pony to turn and not run head first into the fence)
Then, over time, ask for this more and more. The pony will now start to anticipate that turn = lead change up front, so you may need to throw in some false starts where you don’t actually change direction. When pony is pretty much always changing the front lead when you turn, it’s time to start using leg after the front change is complete to get pony to change his back end too. Yes, it looks messy at this stage, but it gets better.
You have now taught two different stages of the lead change using different aids. Now once pony has both of those down, you can ask for both at the same time. This is going to give you that clean change. If pony gets confused, go back to your lead change basics and then ask again.
Until pony always does a clean, nice change on that sharp turn, don’t ask for them anywhere else. Eventually, you will be able to have pony do a lead change anywhere with a tug of your new inside rein and a leg behind the girth like you are asking for the canter.
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I can’t give input about teaching the change but I can tell you I can see ponies and horses in HJ land that have been slung into a lead change. I more agree with using your weight like @CBoylen described than ….and I mean no offense @StormyDay … then the abrupt bent charge into the wall and the strong rein change.
I have a a really nice hunter with an auto change from right to left. If you want a change from left to right you better be straight before asking, have a GOOD canter, and open the door with your new bend while asking and stepping out. I can do the sling all day every day and get it but it’s ugly and isn’t going to win.
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I’m not above using a good wall either, I just try not to pull too hard to teach the whole change at once. Most will just do it. @StormyDay’s way isn’t exactly the same, but the thought process is.
Fewer buttons. You are literally creating something that is going to be operated by a six year old. It should have one speed, go in a straight line, turn right and left. That’s it.
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Oh trust me! I use the wall lol. I guess my thought is that you can’t accomplish it through the reins as much as your weight and opening the door to the new direction. Many roads to Rome!
Edited to add. I will politely bow out as I am not a trainer. Just a petite adult who has been commissioned at times to school ponies. And I can tell which ones have been slung into a change. Carry on! Sorry to derail in anyway.
Without seeing you ride, my number one guess would be your seat bones.
For myself, flying lead changes are always hard for ME. I always overthink it. I had a very real “aha!” moment at a clinic this summer, really paying attention to my seat bones. That is not something anyone ever really explained to me nor did I really pay attention to it.
Also, you talk about not throwing the front end around. However, it’s really, really important to have ribcage control. I have learned (and feel) the ribcage is way more important than the hips when doing a simple or flying change.
So, break it down simple.
Let’s say you are on the left lead. That means your weight is slightly more on your RIGHT seat bone. You might also have your right (outside) leg back slightly and you might also have your left (inside) leg forward slightly. This keeps the very slight bend in your horse’s body to the left, as if you were loping a circle to the left.
When you go to do the flying change to the right.
First, you slightly lift on your right rein/hand and tip the horse’s nose. This will also help open the shoulder.
Then, use your right leg (slightly forward) to ask the ribcage to move to the left. This will also help free the shoulder.
Then, move your weight to your LEFT seat bone. Give an encouraging left leg support, slightly back, to keep the hip moving.
Then, REMOVE your right leg and give a kiss/cluck sound. The release of the leg is the cue that lets them to the change.
Now I will admit, I am primarily a western rider. But this leg release can be really, really obvious if you watch certain reining riders. When they take that inside leg off, the horse does the flying change into the new lead.
One one hand, it’s a lot to think about. But yet, don’t make it so hard.
I always tell myself, it’s just another simple lead departure. I am going to ask my horse to do the same thing, whether I am going from a trot to a lope, or going from one lead to another. Keep it the same, then it becomes easy!
Hmm, I don’t know growing up we taught tons of ponies this way. They all went on to have nice clean changes and win at top AA shows.
It’s no longer how I teach flying changes, but that’s because I’m teaching horses who may need to know how to do a dressage change.
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I have definitely done the gallop to the fence and step out and sharp turn method. But having taught changes the other way I described also, once they are installed, it takes very little aid to do them. And you don’t have to rely on a corner because sometimes with the huge rings maybe it feels more random where your track is.
Also having done a fair amount of equitation even on ponies, it really does help to have a clear aid = change and not just rely on stepping to the new outside and turning.
Several members have now posted what works for them which goes to show there is no one and only correct way to put a lead change on one.
What works for me is making sure the horse/pony’s walk to canter and trot to canter departures are very very correct - straight, balanced, smooth, uphill, relaxed with a very light aid. I also work on very correct simple lead changes, starting out with several trot steps in between and slowly decreasing the number of trot steps (but not typically all the way to “skipping” the change).
Once I have that solid, then I simply ask for the new lead as if I’m asking for a normal canter departure. During all this time I continue to work on my course work and I think that helps them figure it out on their own too.
All the ones I’ve put lead changes on this way do very smooth auto changes but also nice, easy, straight changes when asked with minimal aid.
I think also key point as well is to not make it a big deal. If they start getting frustrated or worried, I go back to working on the canter departures and just occasionally ask for the lead change. Even as I’m “teaching” the lead change I don’t ask for it every ride and when I do ask if I get one or two each way, or sometimes even one way, I move on. When I’ve seen other people make it an issue, drill them, or even ask for them on every ride (outside of course work) it tends to backfire.
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Plus, right or wrong, this is literally how 99% of pony kids ask for/set up a change. 
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I also suck at putting a change on a horse. Some people make it look so easy… not me. Anyways there’s a video on YouTube by Amelia Newcomb where she does walk-canter transitions on a shallow loop serpentine. That exercise definitely helped us.
I also put poles at the end of the arena (perpendicular) so if we missed the change in the corner we could try again or skip up and then continue on course.
My favorite way to ask for the change is a tear drop shape. In particular coming down the quarter line, leg yielding to the rail, somewhat tight roll back turn and leg yield back to the rail (and hopefully get a change).
Good luck!
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I always teach changes through a simple change to the trot so momentum is still there. I use half turns. The typical start at 4 steps trot down to 3.2.1. Then just ask for change. So I create a very nice canter inside leg to outside hand. Use those aids to initiate Half turn. Then as you get to straight part of half turn new inside leg to outside hand to straighten to the new way of going. When the timing feels right new outside leg to cue the change. I’m very successful Installing changes. Usually takes a couple weeks for them to learn it. Then I stop teaching it and only ask when I need it in a course. Maybe ask monthly to make sure it’s still there. If I feel they are not balanced or they are going to blow it I don’t ask for it. The key I find is as you ask you start to feel any holes (bulging shoulder, rogue haunch). With that info I go back to regular flatwork and on work on the hole. Shoulder in, haunches in, leg yield. Whatever it takes. (ETA: this is why it becomes a two week process. I’m not drilling changes for two weeks but working on the canter and the buttons I need ) Also I teach leg yield before I teach canter so I have the buttons to pick up the correct lead straight away. I think that helps down the line with the changes.
I don’t know any books on this. I kind of just figured this out from 40 years of riding.
Good luck!!
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While this might be an excellent way of teaching a dressage change for a trainer on a dressage horse, it’s not at all an efficient way of teaching a kid’s hunter pony.
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Speaking as someone who teaches a lot of small people, it’s really important to remember that the lead change has to be attainable for the intended pilot. The average small pony rider understands and can execute go forward (kick) and steer. Many many of them can not reliably identify when they are on the wrong lead, or at least not in time to then set up for and ask for any kind of sophisticated change. I teach my little riders to go forward into the corner, turn and kick with outside leg (keeping in mind that in the moment even the concept of which one is the outside leg might be too much. These are riders who are still learning their right from their left!).
So the lead change installation in the pony has to match that level of riding. Go forward into the corner, turn, kick.
Also OP, you don’t mention how heavy you are. But carrying weight can definitely inhibit the small ponies until they’re strong enough to lift themselves and you through the change.
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Ditto. I’m going through a phase at the moment where for the life of me cannot get a change on my horse. I blame my previous one as he was overly automatic so I never quite got the actual mechanics.
I also say a recent video from Amelia Newcomb that explained changes super well. She really breaks it down.
My issue is usually that I’m not forward enough…so straightness and forward are your friend. Counter canter is a good tool to use as well to ensure your straightness and balance.
I hate seeing some of the changes in the hunter ring that look overly dramatic and trying to put the horse off balance. They should be flowy and not interrupting the rhythm.
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Quit worrying about micromanaging the change, get a good canter and ride the pony forward. Stop picking pick, picking on them. Goooo.
IME, riders fiddle too much with their hands trying to direct every step telling them what to do while riders body tells them sloooow. Mixed messages don’t get good results.
Some Ponies really have trouble getting and sustaining a good, forward canter and many riders just cant keep Pony ahead of the leg, not enough barrel to take that leg. Some Ponies (and horses) just lack the physical ability to come from behind and forever go around dumped on the forehand which hinders good lead changes.
Try just working on getting that good canter, raise hands and think up, down, up, down like the merry go round. The good canter allows good lead changes and once installed, the canter can be recreated by a kid and the rest takes care of itself. Most of the time. We are talking Ponies…originally named Pony because all the other 4 letter words were taken 
The methods mentioned above all work but only IF that canter is installed. The creatures are dead smart, all about teaching them to want to, not micromanaging and picking.
Knew one Medium that started swapping off about 3-4 strides out coming off the corner. Vetted ad nauseum, nothing. New saddle, nope. Body work, nope. Training ride by tiny Pro, yup, no swap. Pretty good kid rider, nope, swap every time
Visiting clinician observed situation, Noted that kid circled when they felt the swap. Inadvertently had taught Pony if it swapped, it didn’t have to jump into into the line. Had kid just keep going into and down the line every time and the swap went away.
Same clinician watched another Medium who had started stopping at anything less than a perfect distance to single oxers and developed a nasty right duck that defied explanation or diagnosis. When the stopping started, trainer had kid ( another good little jock) bridge the reins in left hand and reach back with right to apply stick. Cured the stop but Pony started ducking out to the right.
Clinician deduced bridging the rein and reaching back with the right arm “ opened the gate” and allowed the Pony to “ escape”. They were right. Replaced stick with spurs, after a few half hearted attempts, Pony realized it would have to try something else.
Mention these because theres nothing like another set of eyes from another, neutral observer. Does OP have access to somebody who can watch her and offer input? Preferably a neutral party with no personal or financial stake in the Ponies that can and usually does influence their observations. Like that clinician who regularly visited trainer to keep them sharp, a train the trainer visit if you will.
Give getting some outside help or a mentor some serious thought. Good trainers don’t work in a vacuum and always seek outside input and knowledge to keep learning.
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