Castile soap like this?
Just like with everything in horses, everyone has an opinion (or three) on how to do something. If you want to change your ways, pick a plan that works for you and that you like the outcome of. It may take some experimenting to find the right thing for you and your tack.
I do what I do because I don’t like buying 800 different products, a lot of stuff on the market trashes my sensitive skin, and I am very lazy. If I like the outcome of a chore that takes me 5 minutes and two steps (wipe tack. Clean but), I am far more likely to do it regularly than one that takes 4 steps, 3 products, and 15 minutes. So, if I can clean my tack and it stays soft, shiny, and supple with one product, then that’s what I’ll do. I don’t feel like “sealing” things in, adding a second goopy conditioner/lederbalsam, or trashing my skin with ammonia. Doesn’t mean those things are wrong. They’re just not right for me!
Find a product you like and that leaves your tack the way you want it to look. Play with your process until you find the one that works best for you. Then clean your tack!
Glycerin is a moisturizer, which is why just glycerin can leave leather sticky/tacky. Technically it is good for leather, just not the best cleaning product.
That castile soap would probably work OK, but the stuff I buy comes in a bar and is cheap. The brand is Kirk’s.
As has been mentioned already, the black, gunky stuff comes off with the diluted ammonia. Really well. I got this tip from COTH a few years ago. I was never able to get that stuff off with anything, but the ammonia is truly a miracle for cleaning, especially when you have a build up like it sounds as though you do.
[QUOTE=December;8005387]
As has been mentioned already, the black, gunky stuff comes off with the diluted ammonia. Really well. I got this tip from COTH a few years ago. I was never able to get that stuff off with anything, but the ammonia is truly a miracle for cleaning, especially when you have a build up like it sounds as though you do.[/QUOTE]
It just sounds to abrasive…ammonia on leather… :eek:
Maybe I’ll give it a try and then condition with the passier
Dewey - they had bar castile soap too, but it was scented.
[QUOTE=Dewey;8005253]
That castile soap would probably work OK, but the stuff I buy comes in a bar and is cheap. The brand is Kirk’s.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like not enough conditioning to me.
The first thing you need to do is restart.
First clean with castile soap (not glycerin, it doesn’t leave residue). Clean everything like a strip clean.
Then oil lightly with something like olive oil or a light saddle oil, not neatsfoot or something that will do too much darkening or heavy conditioning.
Let it sit for 24 hrs. Then condition with lederbasalm. Effax and Passier are both good.
For every day care wipe down with a damp sponge and then glycerine soap. Once a week or twice if you’re having dry weather condition with lederbasalm or a lighter balm if it’s humid out. Once every two months do a good clean with castile then follow with glycerine soap and then a oil heavy conditioner like lederbasalm.
First you’ll need to clean the heavy gunk off of your tack using ammonia/hot water, castile soap, or some other leather cleaning product – I like Belvoir Step 1 Tack Cleaner Spray because it is kind to the leather & your skin, yet gets gunk off.
Then each time you use your tack, wipe the sweat off with plain old water & a sponge. Every time. Then you won’t have a gunk build up. I do like to use the Higher Standards Saddle Soap each time on the flash of my bridle because it gets seriously gross, and the HS saddle soap does not leave a sticky film like a glycerin bar does.
If the tack looks dry, then you want to condition it with leather conditioner. Probably no more than 1x per month if it’s decent tack. For this I like to use Effax Lederbalsam. Passier is OK too. Either way the key to the conditioner is do not over apply it; and wipe off what the leather doesn’t soak up or you will have sticky yukky tack.
JMHO, YMMV!
With the castile soap regimen -
specifics please!
I understand that with the castile soap, you want suds. So, I’m assuming you wet sponge, squeeze out some water, rub on soap bar, and then scrub leather. Once the leather is clean of gunk, do you rinse it with plain water to remove the soap, or just wipe down with a towel or rag to move the wet/soap?
[QUOTE=SuckerForHorses;8005610]
With the castile soap regimen -
specifics please!
I understand that with the castile soap, you want suds. So, I’m assuming you wet sponge, squeeze out some water, rub on soap bar, and then scrub leather. Once the leather is clean of gunk, do you rinse it with plain water to remove the soap, or just wipe down with a towel or rag to move the wet/soap?[/QUOTE]
If your leather is really filthy with lots of stuck-on “jockeys,” take the tack apart first. I have used a old toothbrush or Dobie pad with the castile and water to scrub really filthy tack. If you do this, use the toothbrush/scrubby pad only on the rough side of the tack. You don’t want to scratch the smooth side; use a sponge to clean that side. Taking tack apart will also allow you to really clean metal deposit and gunk from the buckles and hook studs as well. The toothbrush is great for this.
Remove the suds with a clean, damp sponge. Get all the soap off. You can rinse the pieces with water if necessary, but you should be able to get it all off with a damp sponge. Allow the tack to dry, then oil (if tack is dry or neglected) and finish with saddle soap after the oil is absorbed.
Once the tack is clean, maintain it by wiping with clean, damp sponge after use and adding a light coat of saddle soap or Leather New (liquid glycerine). Take it apart and do a through cleaning/conditioning periodically, but if you don’t let it get filthy and neglected again, it should be pretty easy.
Well-cared for leather is pleasant to handle and will last a long time. I am still using the Crosby bridle and Stubben saddle I bought used in 1979.
Interestingly enough, when I stopped at the feed store just now, they had Kirks Castile Soap bars for $1.99 so I bought a bar and will give it a try tonight!
[QUOTE=Dewey;8005659]
Once the tack is clean, maintain it by wiping with clean, damp sponge after use and adding a light coat of saddle soap or Leather New (liquid glycerine). Take it apart and do a through cleaning/conditioning periodically, but if you don’t let it get filthy and neglected again, it should be pretty easy.[/QUOTE]
I let the mud/sweat/hair dry while I put the horse away. Brush the gunk off lightly with a household scrub brush. Wipe with hot water and a terry cloth towel. If it was really dirty and needs some leather shine back I use the Leather New Foam and a tack sponge to dress it up. It’s right in my grooming box.
Take tack home one a month or so to clean with glycerine or Higher Standards. Condition once or twice a year with a good beeswax based conditioner or olive oil depending on my mood.
Grungy field halters etc soak in hot water and Castile. I have a peppermint scented one I love. Scrub brush gunk off. Wipe with terry cloth. Condition.
We just had a saddle maker give a talk at the riding club I belong to. His idea for good leather care was to wipe off tack with a damp cloth after each use. If tack got really dirty/sweaty, clean with a good saddle soap and wipe soap off. To oil just use olive oil( not the extra virgin type due to cost). He said that most of the tack cleaners for sale now days have silicone in them which you should avoid like the plague as it seals the leather and doesn’t allow good conditioning of the tack. He said he only uses saddle soap if tack really dirty (maybe a couple of times per year). The saddle maker also rides and shows horses so his tack does get used quite a bit.
OBSESSED with cleaning tack.
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Every ride, clean tack. If it was a short ride, cold out, horse didn’t get tack too dirty, I will wipe it down with a damp sponge and then dry with a cotton chamois/microfiber. If it was a long session, hot out, etc. and horse got very sweaty, then I use a conditioning soap [I really love Akene, about to try out Higher Standards]
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1x a week, I condition my tack. I will first clean it with castile soap (sans my saddle – it always is cleaned with Akene]. I do a really light layer; no need to slather it on if you are religious about conditioning. I really like Akene conditioner too. It reminds me of cold cream (that stuff ole ladies use to remove their makeup) and it “melts” into the leather.
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1-2x a year, depending, I will oil my tack (EXCEPT my stirrup leathers). What oil do I chose? Kind of depends on what I feel like.
Otherwise, it’s really simple. Keep it clean. Keep is moisturized. Those are the basics for me, you can go from there and detail what products you like. “Listen” to your leather – some of my pieces of tack, such as my saddle, which is buffalo, seems to get “drier” than say, my Antares bridle. So I feel that I need to really be on top of conditioning it, while my Antares bridle is more so “How is it looking this week?”
As far as glycerin, I was always told you do not clean tack with it; you use it as a “topper” to moisturize/protect tack. I don’t personally use it, but I have been toying with adding it to my routine for shows, because it does give it a nice satin sheen.
It seems “extreme” to some, perhaps, but I make investments when I purchase my tack and I try my best to protect these investments! People always say kind things about the state of my tack, so I must be doing something right 
[QUOTE=Dewey;8005253]
That castile soap would probably work OK, but the stuff I buy comes in a bar and is cheap. The brand is Kirk’s.[/QUOTE]
I use liquid Castille or Murphy’s. Both diluted with water in a spray bottle. Glycerin soap and Pessoa lederbalsam for conditioning. I’ve been told to try kiwi brown to even out the color of my used, Smuckers harness but haven’t tried it,yet.
Anyone for benign neglect? I love the idea of starting with clean conditioned tack and maintaining it every ride. If even done that for as many as say 3 months but then I slip up. And I just leave it alone perhaps for several months. Eventually I do a really good job cleaning it and conditioning it and start of vowing to do the every ride wipe down……. I know my self to well…… the sordid cycle repeats…… Myy biothane bridle is the best. When thrown in the wash it comes out like new!!! Despite my pattern of neglect, all of my leather tack is in good condition (rather it doesn’t look too bad dirty and looks just fine once it is cleaned). I’ll run now before the rotten vegetables come flying!!!
[QUOTE=Mukluk;8006323]
Anyone for benign neglect? I love the idea of starting with clean conditioned tack and maintaining it every ride. If even done that for as many as say 3 months but then I slip up. And I just leave it alone perhaps for several months. Eventually I do a really good job cleaning it and conditioning it and start of vowing to do the every ride wipe down……. I know my self to well…… the sordid cycle repeats…… Myy biothane bridle is the best. When thrown in the wash it comes out like new!!! Despite my pattern of neglect, all of my leather tack is in good condition (rather it doesn’t look too bad dirty and looks just fine once it is cleaned). I’ll run now before the rotten vegetables come flying!!![/QUOTE]
We are sisters of the heart :lol:
So last night I sat down with a glass of Dark Horse Cabernet and started in on my tack!
I started with the Kirk’s Castile soap bar, and a damp sponge. Sudsed it up, and scrubbed. Wiped off with a terry cloth towel.
Let dry and then used my hands to work on a thin layer of the Passier Lederbalsam…that stuff smells FABULOUS and felt so good on my hands!
Hung my pieces up on my laundry rack to soak it in.
I am really liking the combination of the Kirk’s and the Passier so far!
Question: if the leather soaked in ALL of the Passier overnight, does this mean it was really dry and could use another layer? The Passier says to rub on and then before next use, wipe it down. Since there’s nothing to wipe off some of the pieces I think this means that it was super dry and could probably use another coating.
Like everyone has said, different methods and products for different folks.
If it is brand new tack, do yourself a favor and get it professionally oiled. (Under no circumstances are you to use any type of Neatsfoot oil.)
Personally, as a Type-A, OCD person who wouldn’t let any groom (full service or not) touch my tack, I’ll list what I do:
Main
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Leather Therapy Cleaner - I spray it so it does get quite sudsy, but the sponge is only damp. I let it sit for about 2-5 minutes to get the grime/dirt/mud off and wipe excess off with a cloth. For extra dirty bridles, martingales, breastplates, I do a rinse and repeat, taking a cloth and firmly slide and wipe the leather between the cloth to get all the built up dirt and grime off.
(Use this one basically anything: brushes, nylon halters, schooling boots, etc. My Ariat half chaps have lasted 11 years with this type of care. I use it on my old but mint condition Crosby pancake saddle, bridles, Dover schooling boots, Equifits, girths, reins, paddock boots, half chaps, and Italian show boots.) -
Leather Therapy Conditioner - anything that looks dry or parched, I load up on this product after using the Cleanser and items are dry.
Alternatives
3. Leather CPR - use this on my expensive Devoucoux after every ride. I use enough on the leather to see a slight sheen.
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Passier Saddle Cleaner - use this on expensive French bridles or saddles…don’t feel like shelling out for specific Devoucoux or CWD cleansers and conditioners.
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Passier Lederbasalm - again, I use this as a follow up conditioner and sealant on my expensive French leather. It is greasy feeling when first putting it on, but after sitting overnight on the leather, it absorbs right in. If leather is extra dry, wait a day for it to absorb and then apply another coat.
Frequency
During the summer or any hot, sweaty ride, I clean all my tack with a good wipe down with Leather CPR.
Every week, sometimes twice a week depending upon how yucky my equipment has gotten, I completely take apart my bridles, saddles, breastplates, martingales, as well as do my paddock boots and half chaps. This usually takes me about 2.5 hours and is a main in my toches, to use a polite word. 
Washing saddle pads, blankets, sheets, polos, etc. is a whole 'nother beast.
