Locker neighhbor won't get rid of her cookies...

For snap traps in my own personal locker, no.

But I’m a little aggressive when it comes to this stuff. I might tell the BO I am putting a snap trap in my locker, but the implications of a snap trap do not expand past your own locker (like D-con would, which I never put out) so I wouldn’t feel the need to broadcast it to everyone.

The black TomCat brand traps are safe. They won’t break fingers or cat paws if set off accidentally. I’d grab a 4 pack of those, and bait with something safe (peanut butter), and go from there.

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Elimination of rodents is NOT “inhumane.” They are a common enemy and deserve to be “controlled” in an effective manner that does not cause other problems elsewhere. That means traps that kill them quickly or traps that can be emptied into something that will kill the rodent quickly. But at the end of the day you have to KILL THE RODENT! If you don’t they will find a way to breed and make more rodents, compounding the problem.

Maybe looking for a new facility is a possible answer for the OP but it leaves everyone else in the clutches of a purveyor of “stupid human tricks.” That’s unfortunate but sometimes that’s what needs to be done.

G.

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If they really aren’t going to do anything about the rodent issue, I wouldn’t leave my tack where mice can get to it. Last winter, some mice settled in a corner of our tack room and I had to throw out some old saddle blankets. I found them before they ruined any leather tack, but the pee smell and droppings were disgusting to clean. You might consider keeping your tack at home and bringing it to and from the barn in the car until they decide to actually get rid of the rodents. I would be quiet about it, but if I couldn’t afford to buy new stuff, I’d protect it.

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Okay, I’m definitely considering this. Thank you! I am too, aggressive when it comes to this stuff. I don’t appreciate mouse poo all over my nice things or tack getting chewed up. I can’t help but think though, would this not be counter productive? Let’s say I use the bounce sheets and peppermint extract as a deterrent, but then bait them in using peanut butter? Would you either pursue one or the other, or both?

I’m just looking for the most efficient way of elimination (out of my locker).

IMO, no. You have to give the little guy something super yummy and super easy as the first thing he sees if he makes into your locker-land. Unfortunately for him, it’s going to kill him, too.

Don’t forget to block their entrance. The trap is to be the “last resort” gtfo tool, not the first.

I’ve also considered just bringing my things home, but it does get annoying having to haul everything from the barn to my vehicle, to inside my home (too paranoid about vehicle break-ins, my precious saddle, haha) to then only bring it right back because my locker is infested with mice. I’d much rather just take some sort of action at the source.

Oh I also remembered that I put something in my locker to deter visiting mice and haven’t had a problem since (and should probably replace). I believe it was something as simple like dryer sheets or cedar. I mean those rascals destroyed my nearly new Chas Owen helmet -was grossed out and not happy. I’ll look it up and again and let you know what I used. If you can’t keep them out of the tack room at least you can keep them out of your lockers.

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Not exactly funny, but I remember one barn that had several overfed cats who had no interest in mousing…and I’d often go into the warm tack room to find ENORMOUS rodents sitting and eating the cat foot laid out in dishes. Completely unaware of the irony.

I’m a complete PIA, so I take my treats to the barn and back home with me every time. Unfortunately, it sounds like your barn mate is the type of person who passively aggressively digs in and refuses to clean as a point of principle. I’m not sure the tin will really help.

It’s weird, sometimes, the different attitudes people have about the appropriate way to keep food…I’ve been at barns in which people keep their tack in immaculate condition, but they’ll leave obviously slimy, rotting carrots and apples still in the plastic bag in their lockers or trunks and never throw them out.

I agree that the barn owner/manager has to address the issue. Even though what you’re requesting is 100% reasonable (that all treats must be in secure rodent-proof containers), just like with any common area etiquette–like keeping the wash stall clean or picking the arena after they use it–unless it’s official policy, there are some people who won’t do it otherwise, even though it’s basic courtesy. I also agree that while an uncovered treat buffet is definitely not helping the mouse problem, it’s likely not the sole source, and the management will probably need to take other steps.

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Feeding barn cats doesn’t make them not hunt, but leaving food out can attract pests. For cats that hunt, the best thing to do is get a cat raised by a feral mother.
I don’t support overweight pets, but barn cats I don’t restrict much on food because they’re outside in the cold and exercising. I have one that has gotten a bit heavy, but she’s an amazing hunter. She is feral, though. Might be a liability in a boarding barn, but feral cats make the best hunters.

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You are VERY correct. It’s not all of her fault, but she is always acting like the world is up against her and thus her negative attitude shines through. Obviously this is none of my business, but she has issues taking direction (from our trainer) or advice from anyone, and ironically loves to give it. I consider it a slight personality flaw, and this is why I do try and avoid her at all costs. It’s unfortunate she’s not a more easy-going, understandable person, but I guess that’s what generated this thread in the first place!

I will attempt with the tin, but as to not be too bold, will message her ahead of time “Hey, I’m at the buck store picking myself up a treat tin, would you like me to grab you one too? I’m also grabbing one for so-and-so.” Crossing fingers that this is the easy way out.

I don’t think you should give this teen anything - let her stuff get chewed, gnawed on etc.

You need to protect your stuff - get a couple of bounce dryer sheets and throw them in your locker, or some cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil - both are supposedly mouse repellent - won’t kill them but apparently will keep them away/out of your locker. Since you’re in a colder climate you’ll probably have to replace them weekly. Maybe the next time someone is posting about homes for barn cats, mention it to your BM/BO.

Maybe the teen will learn about her treats and belongings once they get destroyed and she might learn to respect not only her belongings but those of her barnmates as well.

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FYI, dryer sheets (and Irish Spring soap, which was also recommended to me) do not work to repel Ontario mice (where I believe OP lives). I had both in my tack box, and would regularly open the door to find a mouse standing on top of the dryer sheet, directly beside the Irish Spring :lol:

I did end up getting some mothballs, which helped, but finally I ended up getting a new door made for my tack box, and now they can’t get in. The old door had spaces which allowed the mice to just saunter on in. I didn’t have any treats or food items in my box either…it was just a nice sheltered space for them in winter.

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This. I’ve had bounce sheets in my locker for quite some time. Based on the advice I received on here I didn’t think I had enough, but I too found mice poop neatly stashed in the corners right where I strategically placed the sheets. My next attempt will be the peppermint extract with steel wool stuffed in the corners, with mice traps to boot.

Get the T-rex traps. They’re what the Pros use. Just a wee bit of peanut butter and wham— ex-mouse :wink:

When the rats at work got smart about the peanut butter we used snickers bars.

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Not sure where the OP is located, but in these parts, mice are a vector species for Lyme disease and other tick-borne illnesses. If my barn owner were that cavalier about a mouse infestation, I would be looking for another barn, stat.

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Can you tell me what poisons don’t act on the secondary target?

Try these…

https://www.amleo.com/mouse-magic-repellent-pack-of-12/p/BON866/

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Older, “first gen” poisons like warfarin. The mouse needs to eat several meals of it in order to actually kill it so when it dies it doesn’t have a lethal dose worth in it’s body. The birds still ingest poison, and it can cause them problems if they eat enough poisoned rodents. The second gen poisons kill with a small dose, but they kill slowly, so the mouse can eat several lethal doses worth before dying. They then have a bird sized lethal dose stored in their bodies. In an overly simplified explanation.

I’m not entirely sure about Lyme disease, but around here (at this time of year, anyways), tick cases are far and few between, simply due to our harsh weather conditions. Occasionally, temperatures can reach near -40C, which is why the mice favor our heated tack room. :no:

Going to mouse-proof my locker tonight with some steel wool, peppermint extract, duct tape, traps and peanut butter. Wish me luck…

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