More Trailer Advice Needed: what's the least scary configuration?

[cutter99]

I have owned more trailers than I care to admit to- everything from a two horse straight load bumper pull to large 4 horse slants with living quarters, probably more than 10 in total.

The one I will never sell, until we are totally out of horses and livestock, is our stock trailer.

Gooseneck, 16’ on the floor, 6’9” wide, calf gate into the neck, full escape door in the front compartment, center full swinging gate with a sliding door in it, and the same full gate with a sliding door on the rear. It is only 7’ high, but I have short, cattle bred QHs and Paints, so it works for me.

The only thing that would make me love it more is if it had a real dressing room/ tack room up front, and a ramp either at the rear or on the side.

With the center gate, it makes 2 8’ long box stalls. Great space for 1 or 2 horses per box, depending on the horses.

I have loaded a feral horse on it more than once, as well as horses that hadn’t been hauled for years and problem loaders.

One of the things I like about it best is it is safe for both horses and those loading the horses. There are plenty of places for a human to get away from a fractious horse, and you can even open the center gate from outside the trailer.

Ours is all aluminum, and I bought it in 2011 for a mere $6500. It is a 1999 that is hard to tell its age as it has held up so well. We just replaced the mats in it last year, make sure all the hinges and latches get lubed regularly, and replaced all the lights with LED lights a couple years ago. Other than brakes and tires, there is not much to it.

[LazyA1]

I just custom built a 4Star 2H slant bumper pull. I already have a Featherlite 2H slant GN, but 1) I have four horses and have a wildfire phobia and want capability to evacuate 4 horses, and 2) I wanted something that is designed to keep horses as cool as possible in summer, and 3) I wanted a BP so I could pull with a 1/2 ton and in an emergency I’m more likely to have a friend that can pull it.

I add 6" to the height and 6" to the width, so by 4Star specs that makes it 7’6" high and 7’6" wide. My hauler friend mentioned that when you add height, you lose stability so I added both width and height.

I also added a ramp. No rear tack. The back opens up completely. No center post. It is also a stock/combo type design with slatted sides on top. It is extremely open and light. I have this configuratoin in my GN also. I have had new horses that came as “bad” loaders, but I never have any trouble with my trailers.

My 16.2 horse turns around and walks down the ramp easily. If I am hauling one, the divider telescopes and I can tie it back. It came with a snap and ring to do this with.

You do not need taller. My 16.2 (my tallest) has plenty of head room!

I did also add a foot to the length. I haven’t hauled two in it yet, so I can’t say if that made a huge difference for that. In hindsight, I probably didn’t need that.

[hillary_again]

@LazyA1, thank you for sharing your experience and configuration. What’s the weight of this trailer? Was the cost >$30k?

[gradytb]

I love that idea of painting it white inside!

[BlueDrifter]

The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer

This book is invaluable in helping you make a decision. They examine the pros and cons of all trailer features

The authors moved from Trail-Et (what I have) to EquiSpirit and then I think some split off to form Hawk. I believe Hawk makes Equispirit now, as well as their own. Trail-Et went out of business, but if you can find an older one, they are solid trailers.

The things I find important are no manger, so the horse can move his feet forward under the hanging hay bags, and no center post so the divider can be swung wide for one horse (though mine like leaning on it) or everything can be completely removed to make a box – or to use the trailer for hauling other things.