Outfitting New Trailer: What Can't You Live Without?

[JoJo]

PS…

If you haven’t seen these yet, Ziplock has now come out with HUGE bags. The XL size is about 2-foot x 3 foot and has a gusseted bottom for width. I saw them online first (order, shipping, etc.) but then noticed them in my regular grocery market! They come in a box of 3. The “L” size (don’t know dimensions) come 4 to a box. Both are likely to be very useful. Like for hay or really big items you want to protect.

I’ve found that the more things that can go into ziplocks (and this includes suitcase packing), the better. Things will slide in and out of a very tightly-packed setup without disturbing the things around them.

Also: If you use big black 32-gallon trash bags to protect stuff (or haul stuff or try to keep it waterproof) when underway, you can get bigger, MUCH thicker ply ones. A lot of people don’t know these exist. These are called “Contractor’s Bags.” I believe they’re 3-mil or 4-mil (really heavy plastic). BJs has them. A whole roll of them is about $17 but these things are huge, and very sturdy! I have loaded broken pieces of gypsum board into these which have jagged edges and add up weight fast, for disposal. They really hold weight, they’re gigantic and no water is very likely to find its way into one if well-stashed.

[JoJo]

First Aid Kit!?

I am new to horse ownership, and new to horse camping. So what are things I should be getting for first aid kits (horse and human)? If anyone has a list (and what to use various products for) that would be GREAT!!!

[MuleLady]

JoJo…you and I do the same kind of horse camping, so I’m going to be really interested in what you find useful. Also, I posted this question on a mule list I frequent and got a really cool suggestion for a hot shower (or even hot water) from Fred M., who said:

Go to Home Depot, buy your self one of the 3 gallon metal bug sprayers and a kitchen sink hose attachment. Cut the metal bug sprayer off and with a hose connector attach the kitchen sink hose to your bug sprayer. Fill with water, put on the camp stove and in 5 minutes you are taking a HOT Pressure shower. One tank will wash you but we went ahead and bought two tanks (would love it if I could find a 5 gallon metal sprayer) That way you can take an honest 15-20 minute hot shower with water pressure. They costs about $34 to build and they are one of the nicest things in elk camp each year!!!

Also…some folks over there mentioned condensation problems with the little propane heaters…have any users here experienced that and if so, what did you do about it? Do you actually run those heaters all night or just get the trailer warm before hitting the sack?

JoJo…Contractor Bags…who could live without those! We go through them like crazy around here. I love them.

[gabz]

JoJo, the canopy you should look for is EZ-Up. There are some imitators too, but google for EZ-Up canopy. These do need 2 people, but as someone else suggested, hooking a leg on the trailer would be helpful.

Some of these canopies come with angled legs… some come with straight up & down legs. Spend the extra money for the larger tubing with straight up & down legs - they will last longer and usually come with side walls. Check at sporting goods stores or discount merchandisers in the camping area.

First aid… tube of banamine paste; tube of bute paste (get from your vet and if you are unsure of when to use them, ask) - the pastes are easier to carry in trail bags than a needle and bottle of medicine. Vet wrap, polo wraps, woman’s sanitary pads, furazone ointment (or equivalent), saline solution, turkey baster. The saline solution is the safest solution to use for eye wash or wound wash. The turkey baster is useful for squirting solution where you need it - or even for getting liquids w/electrolytes into your horse. small basin/ rubber feed pan that can serve feed and be used for soaking a foot. Epsom salts, granulated sugar, iodine. (Sugardine paste is sugar & iodine). The iodine must be be diluted in water if used on the horse, or used full strength to disinfect tools. thermometer (if you have a glass one, store it in a toothbrush holder)

needle nose pliers, regular pliers, hammer, tweezer. Duct tape. Scissors (optional), sharp knife.

Bandaids and adhesive tape, in addition to tylenol, ibuprofen, for yourself. You can use the furazone (equivalent of neosporin) and vet wrap on yourself too. Same with the saline solution (eye-contact section of health & beauty aids). Sunblock, sting-eze, benadryl - tablets or liquid. You can use the benadryl on the horse too in case of allergic reaction. Someone posted the amounts. I have them written in my first aid book - the spiral bound one by Dr. Eleanor Kellon, which is in my first aid box - a step stool described below.

For showering. I have a coleman 5 gallon rubber bag with hose and sprayer (about $10 in camping section of stores - like a giant, old-fashioned, douche bag). fill it and lay in the sun during the day. I use a bungee cord and/or lead line between the rear doors of my trailer and hang a small tarp or rain poncho. I stand on the ground, at the back of my trailer to shower. Hang the shower bag from a window inside the trailer (high enough for gravityfeed). This shower bag is also good with heated water from camp stove. Not too hot though. I then place my shampoo, soap, etc. on the floor of the trailer, within easy reach. You might also “invent” your own shower curtain rod or simply get a tension rod and take your shower inside your trailer.

I have a portable table with folding legs. I put an ironing board cover (the metallic kind) on it where the stove sits. I use a coleman 2-burner propane stove. A double boiler pot is a fantastic item. For 1 thing, it packs easily and gives you 2 pots. Secondly, you can boil/simmer something in the bottom and reheat something else in the top. Or - simply heat water in the bottom while you warm up something in the top.

I love my lounger camp chair, but I also take a good upright one too, for sitting in to eat. My step stool is a tool box-step stool. There are shown in horse catalogs for about $30 and up, but I buy mine in discount merchandise stores for less than $20. They support up to 250 pounds, have a small tray, and that’s where I keep my first aid supplies (ones that I don’t carry on the trail), leather punch, small items. It’s my step stool for putting up a picket line, it’s my mounting block, and my sit down and tie my boots, etc.

For my porta potty. It’s a bucket with a seat and a lid. I use 2 plastic bags inside it and sprinkle some shavings and 1/4 cup or so of PDZ, the stall freshener. I then take the bag to the dumpster at the end of the day or weekend. To me, it’s no different than a bag of dirty disposable baby diapers.

Good Luck and have fun!!

[birdsong]

Love this thread

I’ve been doing extensive research as well. First, let me establish that my camping is for leisure and relaxation, mostly for 3 days at a time. I have a gn with a 4’short wall and all my other camping buddies drive trailers with full LQ. So while they comfortably shower, etc. I smile thru my dust and sweat.

Well no more!! I have the Coleman Hot Water on Demand, a small fridge powered by inverter and marine battery, a great little propane Coleman Stove and a fold away table that goes into a small bag no larger than my camp chair. I do also have a dbl pillow top mattress. Before this I had a thinner more light weight mattress that I liked…but could NEVER tolerate an air mattress!!
This newest trailer has an AC/Heater but I have yet to use it preferring to use my very small fan. We usually have access to a water hose nearby but when I haven’t I have simply put a large plastic muck bucket or galvanized tub in the back of the truck with water to dish out as needed for washing up or for my horse. Now I am looking for a 30 gallon plastic barrel that I can take in the trailer empty, fill and use when I arrive for the shower too. Oh yes, I am not comfortable with the idea of all the water in the horse area while using the “cowboy” shower so I bought the pop up porta-privy tent thingy from Evergreen sold at Bass. Have heard really great things about the simplicity of use. It pops up and then folds flat in seconds. Whew!!- stuff!!
I’ve been camping for years and have worked into all of this but I really like to be comfortable.
Shoe bags are great for stuff too…and I have a see through large net bag for my horse emergency kit.
I guess the inverter could handle a small tv and laptop but don’t find those necessary for me personally…prefer a good book.
Sounds like a lot but it all packs away nicely.

[JoJo]

Well, I’m printing out this whole 2nd page! Sounds like I better get busy with the first aid kit !!! I have not worried about it so far because there are emergency horse people (vets also) who can be gotten pretty quickly, but that must change immediately.

New at horse ownership, what do you use some of these things for that were listed in the list of medicines? Not sure what each does.

BIRDSONG, Hot Water on Demand… so you are getting use out of this and you are finding it pays its weight to lug along? That’s the one thing I’ve been wondering if I overkilled on, because I bought it and it’s definitely a piece of equipment, that’s for sure! LOL.

[gabz]

Oh, on those $10 storage units from Wal Mart? If they are what I have, they are FANTASTIC. I have a 4 drawer one that I bought from Target years ago. 2 deep drawers and 2 shallow drawers. The supports between each layer come apart too, so the configuration can be changed. Because the drawers become totes when out of the frame, I used one of the deep ones for shipping boots, bell boots, hay bags, head bumper, spare halter and bridle. When I arrived at destination, the tote went to the horse area to hold all those items. The bottom slot, now empty, became safe place for boots / sneakers. One drawer is personal / bath stuff and the top surface my “dresser”.

Another nifty item are golf towels. These have the grommet and metal shower curtain ring in them.

HEATERS. Although the Mr Buddy doesn’t have a fan, these have multiple safety devices. #1 is a low oxygen sensor that shuts the unit off if oxygen levels fall below safe levels. The other, is the tip-over shut off.
If you want to project the heat, put a small fan in front of it. : ) I use mine while sleeping. I keep a window open a tiny bit.

WATER TANKS: I see that there are several new styles of water tanks (Valley Vet)… but I have the 30 gallon saddle rack type. I love it because i can put it either in the bed of the pickup - under the gooseneck - or, in the very back of the trailer - Gooseneck, 3H slant with no rear tack. Because it’s the saddle rack type, I can put my saddle there (taking it out of the 4’ shortwall dressing room) and my icky pads hang on the stall dividers.

The bridle racks are fantastic to hang folding chairs from. : ) I use smaller bungee cords around the collapsable camp chairs to keep the legs closed instead of messing around with the fabric tube covers they come with.

For anyone screwing things into the trailer walls. Be sure to use stainless steel screws - and when possible, attach strips of wood to the frame with the ss screws, then attach the other things. Anytime you put a screw into the frame, you will be allowing moisture to travel through the screw, into that metal which equals rust. So, the fewer screws you use into the frame, the better. You can also drill the hole then squirt a dab of silicon sealant into the hole, then screw into it.

[gothedistance]

@JoJo

GoTheDistance–

First, a couple of tips I learned about that I forgot to mention…
Handwarmers: If you crack them open and only need them for about 20 minutes, then the rest of their heating power is wasted. If, however, you put them into a ziplock bag and press all the air out, they will cool down and then you can re-use them! Air is what activates them (and re-activates them). I tried it several times. It works.

Thanks!! I have a few packages of chemical hand and feet warmers in my first aid kit, but never found the need to use it. I always wondered if there was a way to preserve them. You answered my question perfectly!!

Ice: I’m sure people know this, but only takes a few lines to write it… on any trip where I need an ice chest, I freeze 16-oz. bottled water. These are a solid block that won’t melt as fast as ice, and as it starts melting you have ice water. (Put them on TOP of cooler since heat rises, cold sinks.)

Neat idea. I fill gallon freezer zip-lock bags with ice cubes and tuck the bags in and around the food in the cooler. It keeps stuff nice and cold, doesn’t melt all over inside the cooler, provides (bagged) cold water if desired, and I can dip into the ice cubes for cold drinks.

I have questions…2-step kitchen step stool (from WMart or Costco) that you mentioned. I haven’t seen these. Do they have storage inside? The way you wrote it, it sounded like they do. The only 2-step kitchen stools I recall have an extention you can use as a handle, pretty hard to sit on top step. Sounds like I’m missing something, these sound handy! Can you describe more?

The handle ones are miserable to sit upon, and the steps are narrow and stingy. The step stool from Costco is 100% plastic, weigh nothing, and darn if I can find them on Costco’s website to show you! Argh!! Anyway, they are hollow, so you can shove stuff under them, or flip them over and put stuff inside. I have two – absolutely love them. Nice big steps, comfy to sit on, and easy for my feet to find when I’m crawling out of bed backwards in the wee hourse to get my horse ready to ride. I was always missing the handle ladder step stool. Deadly! That one is now sitting in my kitchen… where it belongs.

You mentioned “carry plenty of bridle hooks and fold-down saddle racks…” Also referred to “portable” bridle hooks in another place. The only bridle hooks and saddle racks I’ve seen have to be screwed into something. Do you have another kind?

These:
http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=30e073f4-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5
They are terrific!! You can hang them anywhere, inside or outside, good weather and bad. Great for tack, for clothing, for pots and pans – anything!

You also refer to screwing things into ceiling. My steel 2H BP is pretty much just a shell except for where the ribs are. Do you have a way to screw things into ceiling OTHER than on ribs?

I never put bolts into the ribs; always the skin of the trailer. (BTW: you don’t put screws into metal, you use bolts)

Same question for the saddle racks you screwed into outside of trailer (you said one under gooseneck, but other on the side). I’m so far a little afraid to be bolting stuff into side of trailer. Even nervous about the ribs. (I don’t know where they ran electrical wires.) Any advice on that? I’d sure like to feel a little more good about bolding into trailer! This is pretty new to me so maybe I’m being overly cautious.

The ribs are generally used to strengthen the body of the trailer. You can tell which ribs (or channels) are used for the electric. Just steer clear of all the ribs and you should be fine.

When you say “pop up tent” for saddling up… Are you referring to a regular camping type shade canopy you set up? I haven’t seen any pop-up tent that a horse could be under except a whole canopy setup (poles, guy lines, etc.) And second, what is the "instant 10x10 snap-up canopy? Is this something that’s meant for shade for normal camping use? I have ZERO experience with canopies or tents, I’ve been looking at them with a lot of assumpions in mind, then question my assumptions. Thanks, JJ

As gabz says - go for the EZ-up canopies. They are wonderful – tall enough for a horse to be safe underneath (as long as the framing goes up to the peak and not on the level), and more sturdy than the cheap-o plastic canopies. As she suggested, get the one that has the straight legs, not the angled ones. You are going to have leg support strings with all canopies, but if you situate the canopy next to your trailer you can usually tie two legs to the trailer, and only have the remaining two legs that will have ties to the ground.

[gothedistance]

alternative shower equipment

Mulelady -

What a clever idea for the metal bug spray canister as a shower!! That is so cool!!! Opps, make that “HOT”! I have GOT to try it for the summer rides when I’m not only riding but also volunteering.

[JoJo]

GTD:
Glad you liked the hand warmer revival idea. Just for the heck of it (for home) I vacuum-sealed a couple of them in a mason jar (FoodSaver) and used the things for a week, lol. Then also tried the ziplocks, They work pretty darned well!

Thanks for link to the bridle hooks, I didn’t think that’s what you were meaning, but a couple of those would come in pretty handy! I’m turning the 2nd stall into a “human stall” with multiple uses (will sleep in it, shower in it, etc.) and one of those would fit great over the center divider between the two stalls. Not sure how I’d hook them to the side of the trailer, but who knows, if they’re wide enough (the overhang) then may be able to be looped over side of truck bed also.

Anyone have a good plan for a makeshift tonneau cover? I’m doing this on a budget. (Would NOT know that because I keep buying stuff!!!) But I’ve done that so much so that I really have to start cooling it, fast! (Gadget queen here.)

The ziplocks for ice are something I do also, that works very well for lots of things as you pointed out – ice water, keeping stuff dry and if the ice cubes aren’t gigantic honkers (or the quick-melt hollow ones) then the bags can be molded around stuff also. (LOVE multi-use!!!)

STEP STOOL: I am totally stumped what you’re describing. Hollow so you can put stuff under it, in it… hmmmm. Not sure I’ve ever seen such an animal. Now I will really start looking!

Ribs of trailer:
Now I was told TO bolt stuff into the ribs, that they’re the strong part, the rest is just a skin and wouldn’t support much weight AND would be a big open armed invitation for rust. (???) You’re saying to avoid the ribs? I was kind of counting on those. Online horse camper guy friend suggested possibly putting a board across the two front ones (very front of walkway which is in front of stalls) and run wood between them, possibly a saddle rack or ?? there – things that require hooking on. I decided to abandon that because I want to keep walkway as clear as possible for USING as it’s the widest part of the human part of the trailer. I know some ribs must have electrical in them (can see a smidge of wiring going into one) but figured most of the rest were just for support, hence stronger. And a bolt into those wouldn’t go all the way thru to the outside. So what again is wrong with bolting into them?

EZ-Up… you mean these??
http://ezupdirect.com/ezup-instant-shelters/express2.php

---

GABZ… the storage units you’re describing sound different, but similar, and definitely useful. Never thought of sticking shoes in the bottom hole without bin in it, but that would be a good palce to get them out of the way, lol. The ones I bought are just two drawers (tote baskets). One o top of the other. The drawers are 19.5L x 15W x 11D, slightly smaller at the bottom. What I liked about these is that 2 together makes a very nice tabletop for 2-burner coleman stove (or morning wash stand inside trailer). As for drawers, helmet, cantle bag, other bags… everything taking along on trail ride can go in one and you can just whisk it out of the frame and it’s a carry basket, solid-sided. Just struck me as a great way to keep stuff together and organized. The drawers are big enuf so I have Cloud’s fleece cooler and gortex sheet in one of them with some room left over. (I stuck them in there just for some stabilizing weight while fooling around with them.) Yours sound like they may be even more versatile.

Oh, forgot… GREAT cantle bag on sale at country supply! I bought one and promptly turned around and ordered another, they are on Clearance. These are sweethearts! Super well made (surprising detail). Fergit the convertible fanny pack idea, I locked the waist strap buckle and looped it over my shoulder and it doesn’t slip at all. (VERY wide strap!) A perfect thing to throw all your stuff in (jacket and umbrella whatever) for trips to the city when you’re walking a lot and don’t want to be fussing around with handbags (which I’m abandoning anyway). I crammed a winter down jacket into one and STILL had room left over! Here’s the link for those, but if you want one would suggest you act fast because I think once they’re gone they’re gone…
http://www.horse.com/products/sku-HBA32.html
I bought both in brown to blend in with saddle/tack, etc. and I actually hate most colors of brown (either pink tones <yech> or baby-poop tones or sometimes shallow shades of brown make anything look cheap. These are a really nice color of brown. Haven’t seen this kind anywhere else, and the thing is just really well constructed (rain flap over zipper, etc.) Little extra pocket will hold easy-reach stuff as well (e.g., personal stuff) while riding.

BY THE WAY! All sorts of gadget-y tricks are coming back. You would need a FoodSaver that seals bags to do this, but if you have a friend with one you’ll be able to do it there. I won’t go into infomercial mode on FoodSavers, suffice it to say it is THE best appliance I’ve ever bought. (Can we say caramel corn tasting right out of the box after a year???) Anyway, they come with bag material so you can make any length bag you want and seal it. If you fill a length of bag material with Dawn Dish Detergent (not dishwasher, the liquid you hand wash dishes with) and squeeze the extra air out, and then seal it (not vacuum, lol, just seal) – you can make any length ice pack you want. Any width also (6-inch bag material, 8-inch, 11-inch). This isn’t for horse camping, it’s for home remedies. If you need an ice pack for your horse, when you freeze the Dawn-bag (heavy plastic bag material it is) then it becomes a totally flexible “wrap around” ice pack. Totally re-useable, just re-freeze. I made some very little ones for a small lunch box size fabric ice chest, and keeps my stuff cold for a long time on the road. As with any ice pack, you’d pad it with terry towel so it doesn’t frostbite a leg or whatever, but I would imagine could come in VERY handy for the beasties if swollen anywhere.

I’d also like to look at one of those bug spray units, that WAS a clever idea!!!
JJ

[gothedistance]

@JoJo

GTD:
Ribs of trailer:
Now I was told TO bolt stuff into the ribs, that they’re the strong part, the rest is just a skin and wouldn’t support much weight AND would be a big open armed invitation for rust. (???) You’re saying to avoid the ribs? I was kind of counting on those. Online horse camper guy friend suggested possibly putting a board across the two front ones (very front of walkway which is in front of stalls) and run wood between them, possibly a saddle rack or ?? there – things that require hooking on. I decided to abandon that because I want to keep walkway as clear as possible for USING as it’s the widest part of the human part of the trailer. I know some ribs must have electrical in them (can see a smidge of wiring going into one) but figured most of the rest were just for support, hence stronger. And a bolt into those wouldn’t go all the way thru to the outside. So what again is wrong with bolting into them?

JJ

To run a bolt through something, you have to drill a hole. When you drill a hole in a rib, you compromise the strength of that rib. Trailer “ribs” are not only hollow, but also very narrow and only designed to prevent twisting of the trailer body. Putting holes in them is NOT a good idea, especially since air can then get in that hollow to start rust.

Now, drilling through the skin doesn’t compromise anything, is easy, and requires only a small bolt whereas the rib would require a bigger one. It is far easier to rust-proof the skin than the interior of a rib.

[JoJo]

@gothedistance

To run a bolt through something, you have to drill a hole. When you drill a hole in a rib, you compromise the strength of that rib. Trailer “ribs” are not only hollow, but also very narrow and only designed to prevent twisting of the trailer body. Putting holes in them is NOT a good idea, especially since air can then get in that hollow to start rust.

Now, drilling through the skin doesn’t compromise anything, is easy, and requires only a small bolt whereas the rib would require a bigger one. It is far easier to rust-proof the skin than the interior of a rib.

Well, that makes sense. Yup, it does, definitely. Then doesn’t the bolt go through to the outside of the trailer? If so, do you just seal it off with something to prevent rust? Seems it would, but maybe I’m underestimating the thickness of the shell part. I agree, less bolting the better, but maybe it would be a neat idea to weld a few shallow loops inside in strategic places (talking about the ceiling).

I did a google search on magnets and there are a couple of websites with some SERIOUS magnets! I have a feeling some of them would make the magnetic lights (mine are oval with on/off button if yours are the same) look like kid’s play. Some of them have “CAUTION” – not to let kids near them and to be very careful or you could crush a finger. (Now that is a magnet!" But somewhere in that range there must be a variety of strengths that could come in awfully handy.

I think I"m agreeing with your notions on the ribs. Seems that sounds pretty true, those are not big ribs, they’re pretty narrow, and you’re right, I bet that could start some rust activity you couldn’t do a lot about.
JJ

[Simbalism]

JoJo, Check out the web site for Equimedic. They have all types of first aid kits.Some of them are a little pricey, but it will give you an idea for things you want in your first aid kit.You may just want to purchase one of their premade ones. They also have a check list in with it so you can just order what you need to refill from them. What I did is check out their lists and also did an internet search on first aid kit for trail riding. Got lots of great tips that way. I then compiled a list of what I thought I would need. I bought one of LLBean’s toiletry bags with all the pockets inside. I got one that is red in color to stand out.That one lives in my saddle bags and has stuff for horses and humans in it. I also have another bag that is larger that has more dressing stuff in it that lives in my dressing room. For that one, I got one of the Ariat grooming bags which has lots of pockets. Both work great and it is easy to find stuff because of all the pockets which keeps the stuff organized. Whenever I go camping with my riding club buddies everyone always wants to park next to me 'cause I have “everything” in my trailer.

[gothedistance]

@JoJo

Well, that makes sense. Yup, it does, definitely. Then doesn’t the bolt go through to the outside of the trailer? If so, do you just seal it off with something to prevent rust? Seems it would, but maybe I’m underestimating the thickness of the shell part. I agree, less bolting the better, but maybe it would be a neat idea to weld a few shallow loops inside in strategic places (talking about the ceiling).

Since the shell is rolled steel (unless yours is aluminum, then it is rolled aluminum) being processed as one sheet it is actually very strong. I just use a bit of primer and Rust-oleum (in the same color as the trailer) at the hole, and also on the bolt, and not a speck of rust anywhere.

Actually, I paint my trailer every year with Rustoleum – and I have a customized 9 year old 18’ steel stock goodneck with an open floorplan – permanent dividers having been removed in lieu of easy put-up/take-down temporary ones because this trailer also transports our carriage and driving ponies. My trailer sits outside underneath a flight path for commercial jet traffic coming into Dulles airport. The jet fuel exhaust causes black streaks that can’t be removed on the surface of the trailer. So the only way to keep my trailer looking nice is a scrub-down and repaint every spring. This big trailer is a LOT of work to paint, but with annual cleaning and painting the trailer looks FABULOUS!!! – better than the day it arrived from the factory! Not a gliimpse of rust anywhere. And I have more bolts drilled through that thing than Aunt Jemima has pancakes.

I used to have to paint the inside, too, (light gray) just so it looked as nice as the outside (white), but I’ve since pretty much covered the internal metal with protective rubber all over the interior walls, and indoor/outdoor carpeting on the roof. Condensation inside trailers is a REAL problem – nothing like having “rain” dripping down on you while you sleep!! Well, the carpeting (which is rubber-backed and chemically treated to prevent mold or mildew) is fabulous!! Besides preventing condensation, it also sound proofs. Lovely! I cut the carpeting (the same stuff I used on the floor) into strips to fit between the ribs, and used a commercial glue to apply it to the ceiling. The glue is not permanent – I can strip the carpeting off, remove the dried glue easily with a flat trowel, and repaint the ceiling if desired. I left the ribs uncovered, just so I could use magnets on them, but…this spring I’m going to cover them, too.

I did a google search on magnets and there are a couple of websites with some SERIOUS magnets! I have a feeling some of them would make the magnetic lights (mine are oval with on/off button if yours are the same) look like kid’s play. Some of them have “CAUTION” – not to let kids near them and to be very careful or you could crush a finger. (Now that is a magnet!" But somewhere in that range there must be a variety of strengths that could come in awfully handy.

What I found was … if I had to struggle with anything, I didn’t want it in my trailer. When you have very strong magnets, they aren’t agreeable to being moved around. I also learned that no matter how strong a magnet is, it is reeeeeeally still not meant to have something hanging from it that causes movement. That makes a magnet shift and lose hold. I do use the magnetic curtain rods for my sleeping area, but learned that, outside the magnetics (from the defunct Coleman light) that I duct tape to the back of those cheapo press-on light, they had little application elsewhere.

What I did instead was have a welder run a finger-thin rod all around the inside of my trailer just above head level. The rod stands out about 1 1/2" from the wall – not in the way of anything, but easily accessible to hang anything off it (think hanging bridle racks), and it is PERFECT! I allocate one side of the trailer to the hanging horse stuff, and the other side to hanging my stuff (clothing, etc). Where the rod runs above my cooking area I hang racks for my pots and pans, plus the big kitchen utensels, including those disposable fire-starters. (All hanging kitchen stuff is, naturally, stored away when the trailer is in transit).

As far as light is concerned – I found the best light to be those squeeze-grab photographer’s utility lights with the big wide circular flaring brim. Sorta look like a small sattlite dish. Home Depot has them cheap. The light plugs into my inverter and since I use one of the special (expensive) “Green Earth” low wattage bulbs that gives high wattage light … I have all the light I need without drawing much power. Plus it will move anywhere (if you have it on an extention cord) and easily grab and hold onto stuff with those clencher type ends. I don’t bring it outside, tho. If it is dark when I am tacking up in the morning I use one of the cheapo push-on lights – just bring it out and slap it on the side of the horse trailer, and tap it on. It’s great! They work even if it’s raining.

Frankly, when camping out you don’t stay up late anyway, unless you’re sitting around a campfire, so the need to have a gazillion lights just isn’t there.

I gotta say – I learned some stuff here that I’m certainly going to try next time the opportunity knocks!

[JoJo]

Sheeesh! This thread just keeps on getting better!

Symbalism, that is an XLNT idea, I will likely not get a pre-made kit, but would definitely like to see what’s in it. Thanks for that tip!

GTD, wowza! Tons of great “been there done that” info. I was thinking of ordering some serious magnets, but for exactly the kinds of things you’re saying didn’t end up working well. Thanks for that tip! I’ll settle for ones that’ll give me “instant curtain,” shower and otherwise.

PLEASE tell how you do this whole repainting job!! I bought an oldie-but-goodie 1989 steel trailer, Valley, 2H bumper pull, heavy ramp (which I can’t lift myself). The woman I bought it from is a wonderful, neat, conscientious type person, where every time she hauled a horse, she pulled out the mats, cleaned them off, left them in the sun to air, swept out the trailer, edges included. She took it in for annual inspections to a trailer place. It doesn’t have any critical-place rust, but does have cosmetic rust, some of which could become problematical if left unattended.

I would LOVE to preserve this little sweetheart. Friend said she’d never seen that old of a steel trailer in anywhere near that shape. It is unlikely I will ever buy another one unless some weird freak phenomenal deal comes along, and I just have an affection for it.

I would LOVE to treat the rust, and re-paint it, and you are doing this yourself??? Are you talking about the little cans of rustoleum you get from a hardware store? I’ve never seen it in any other form, but then haven’t looked. How do you do this? Surely not with a paint brush, but ??? Please some guidelines on this. The ONLY thing I don’t like about this trailer (other than the ramp weight which may have a fix) is that it’s dark brown, inside and out. I would so much love to paint it white, or at least a light grey.

Can you brief out what form you buy the Rustoleum in (and if it’s hardware store cans, it’s cans), and about what it costs in total? Yours is tons bigger than mine, of course, but approximate. If I could lighten up the inside, I’d be in 7th heaven. And also I would really love to stop the rust on the outside. (Mostly where fenders meet body, stuff like that.) Frame is pristine. Floor boards also. Solid as a rock! It’s worth some TLC. I have an actual affection for it, lol.

The welded-on bar across the top sounds GREAT! The more I look at those hanging bridle racks, the more I can see how these could be phenomenal, both inside trailer and outside while docked. Especially when inside space is at a premium, which mine sure is.

Dying to know about the rustoleum!!!
JJ

[gothedistance]

trailer set-up

Photos of my versitile trailer, including an interior shot during an endurance ride. Check it out.

http://aurigafarm.com/photos/Truck-Trailer/trailer.html

BTW – the trailer cost me all of $4,100. The modifications were about another $1,000 – $5,100 in total. It’s a Big Valley trailer – VERY sturdy and very nice.

[MissBri]

step stool

Not sure but I think this is what she’s thinking of

http://www.keysan.com/big/picsrub0116.html

[lawndart]

A product called Rust converter

http://www.gemplers.com/a/shop/search.aspx?HKW=Rust+Converter&B1=Search&UID=20060317105032078312281

Gemplers carries this, its a liquid that you brush on. Worth its weight in gold. Wait till it dries, then spray paint in color of choice. Much easier than Rustoleum
IMHO.

We do our 14 steel stock every couple of years (kept inside Nov-april)it looks great.

Gemplers has a lot of neat products, different colors paints, all kinds of farm stuff.

[JoJo]

GTD, I love it! OMG, you’ve really gone and done it. Convertible everything!! It looks like you’re using every inch for human purposes when horse is not being transported. I am a huge fan of convertible space use, and this looks like a terrific setup.

So since you’re using all this space after unloading, how do you deal with the horse poop, pee? Do you have a slide-out floor slat on horse’s side so after s/he exits, you can slide that out and have lush carpeting underneath? LOL! (Ah, it sounds like I’m making fun, anything but!!) You’ve done a fantastic job with it from what I was able to see and read. I am curious about the beastie leavings though. I’d love to put some human use to my horse hauling side, but if that animal ever gets constipated, I think all I’d have to do is load her into the trailer. So what do you do about that so it’s nice and friendly to human use after s/he unloads?

Kudos! It’s a great setup. And your price… well, sheeesh, I don’t even wanna hear about it, lol!

Is that a magnetic towel rack on the left per chance? Of all the things to pick out in that setup, it caught my eye because somewhere I bought one that I have on the front of my fridge and can NOT find another one! It has heavy duty magnets and also expands small or big, with about a half-inch rod, all plastic so towels really can dry. I would really like to find another one, and been looking for a while. That one looks like mine.

Really nice setup, if you’re proud of it you have every reason to be. In a heartbeat I’d rather do what you did (open concept, modifiable) than have dedicated living quarters designed like a pop-it-out RV. Those are nice, no question, but your way is much more fun and tailor made!
JJ

[JoJo]

@MissBri

Not sure but I think this is what she’s thinking of

http://www.keysan.com/big/picsrub0116.html

A-hah! Ya think? I did a search last night “step stools” and lots of configurations. I didn’t think that was it because GTD said it collapses and other reference said stuff can be stored in it. This one sure looks like it would stack though, and definitely serve both purposes (in/out of trailer and mounting block).