Many folks just use “starter fertilizer” which is high in phosphate only for new planting. But according to my soil analysis by my land grant university, they recommend a mix which includes a large amount of triple phosphate at the start of each spring growing season. Their formulations are for the most economical application for large land owners, but breaking down the tonnage mix, it turns out I can just use any commercial starter bagged fertilizer as a very close substitute for my small acreage.
That was me. I didn’t clarify that I was being specific to new growth/livestock pressure, which my extension guy and I were discussing. I have a lot of bare spots I’m working on and that won’t be grazed until grass grows and really establishes itself. He said I could fertilize it and see growth right away but horses would quickly destroy it if I turned them out immediately. So he recommended I let the lime work on the soil and allow it to work, establish the grass, then put it into rotation.
This thread has some great info on fertilizer that I really appreciate and I think I may look into it at some point.
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I can’t answer in soil scientist detail but I think the answer generally is “yes”.
EG (extension guy) told me that based on my sample results that I generally have adequate amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and potassium. However my soil is very acidic which makes these nutrients unavailable to cool-season grasses. When lime enters the soil it somehow makes available the existing NPK, which in turn supports long-term and sustainable growth, assuming good grazing management. Unlike fertilizer, lime takes about a growing season to see results so not a quick fix.
Lots of good info in this thread and fertilizer definitely has a place in management.
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I have so much stickweed which procreates through seed and rhizomes 
, though as I keep it mowed it comes back less and less each season. Same with lots of my other perennial inedible goodies. Eventually, as I have good cool-season grass cover the density coming in in the spring should crowd out the non-edible stuff. Weeds are taller at maturity, grass is shorter, so keeping the former trimmed allows the grass to come in more fully.
Mowing should also be done before weeds reach a seed stage, so that cutting ends a particular cycle, rather then spreading mature seed which propagates a new cycle.
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Big picture, a person could reasonably state that synthetic fertilizers that have a nitrogen component are not or are less sustainable as they are produced using fossil fuels.
Pushing leaf growth with synthetic nitrogen fertilizers is entirely possible. Not everyone chooses that route as there are thoughts that plants pushed too fast are more susceptible to disease and adverse weather damage etc. Others may find the pros of applying synthetic nitrogen to outweigh the cons depending on their situation. For example, I typically use a synthetic nitrogen to push my annual cool season ryegrass, but don’t fertilize my perennial warm season sods.
As I understand, altering ph is an ongoing process as any given location will in time revert to its natural baseline.
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I was just thinking about altering pH this morning. I used to have to adjust the pH of our swimming pool 2-3 times a summer because it was too acid. When the coal burning power plants in the midwest were cut back, that stopped. And our widows were no longer etched by acid rain.
But I was thinking about all of the fires out west and microparticulates. As I recall, ashes are very basic (they can be a source of lye, a basic corrosive AIR). So has ash washed into rivers rendered them more basic and therefore harmful for the life therein? Have microparticulates done so to a wider area? Just wondering.
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In central Florida my biggest weed problem
Is 1. Pigweed, perennial, seeds spread easily, if mowed it flowers on shorter stems
And
2. Dayflower. It’s a creeping ground cover that spreads mainly by cuttings (don’t mow!) Spreads and takes over the pasture.
Sometimes chemical control Is the best or only answer.
It is my rudimentary understanding that general ph level is established overt a very long period of time, with areas receiving more rainfall being more acidic and areas w less rainfall being more basic (broadly speaking).
Certainly large scale pollutants could impact ph!
Yes, but can it be done. 
maybe in a different life.
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My 2 pastures are overgrazed. I was just looking at the farms here in Ohio vs my home in NY, and I have huge thistle/burrs that try to grow. We mow thr pastures and chop the fence line, but I am willing to try chemicals. I have about 4 more acres I am getting closer to fencing which would help with the overgrazing. I’m concerned about the chemicals and horses- what is safe? And how long after application? Why do I have huge weeds and Ohio can have acres and acres without any?
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Talk to your local Ag agent. There are chemicals that do not require pulling horses off the pastures. The guy I call uses Grazon. Be aware you cannot use your horses manure in the garden if you spray Grazon.
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We don’t have Ag people around, and I have heard of Grazon. I didn’t know about the manure, and that’s super important. Thank you!
Penn State extension service has a number of courses on pasture management
https://extension.psu.edu/catalogsearch/result/?q=pasture+management
They are everything from a 1 hr webinar to an 8 hour course
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In NY check with Cornell Cooperative Extension, they have offices throughout the state.
Cornell Cooperative Extension | Serving communities in New York state and NYC
A person can properly mow and use chemicals too. It does not have to be a one or the other thing. I am not sure why some are acting like a person must decide on one or the other.
Find your local cooperative extension agent, meet with them, discuss your situation, get your soil tested and go from there.
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