Pipe rail fencing for paddocks

[QUOTE=IPEsq;8023957]
As an east coast native, I have not been a fan of all the pipe fencing out west. But, by and large, it has been better than some of the wire setups I’ve seen here. If you are using panels for a small run, be sure the pipes are rounded. Square edge pipe panels are also made, and it can be much nastier if a horse sticks a leg through those.

Having had to extract a horse cast against a steel cable run through a cable and pipe combination of fencing, I would say that anything that gives them enough space to stick a leg through, unless the material is easily broken, is not good. Mesh on pipe fencing is tricky to install and maintain so that the bottom doesn’t curl up, etc. And if they kick it, you can get some stretched out areas and sharp bits that are also no good. The stretched out area means the foot could go all the way through the next time.

I don’t think I would do any of that in the humid SE. It is hard enough out west.

You can make wooden board runs just as well as pipe runs. This project is an example of what slip board runs look like:

http://www.dcbuilding.com/projects/china-maine-riding-arena-barn/

FWIW, even many round pens in the southeast are made with solid wood sides versus panels.[/QUOTE]

I beg to differ there, wood being the worst of all kinds of possibly fencing horses, especially in a small space.

Horses will chew wood, horses will get splinters just rubbing on wood, that make abscesses, if treated wood, huge abscesses, have seen it.

Have seen accidents of horses hitting wood fences that had worse consequences than barbed wire ones, with impaled and degloved horses.

Cable is not at all adequate for horses either, worse than barbed wire because horses don’t respect it at all, will push on it and it will rub them raw.

Pipe is a good solution for least damage, the right kind of pipe and fabrication, of course and proper horses on both sides of it.

The right kind of horse mesh fences are made where it doesn’t stretch enough to put a foot thru, V-mesh one of those and without ends to poke a horse.
I have seen big, grown horses bounce off V-mesh without a mark on them, foals also.

If wood is what you have, protecting it with hot wire could help, but that adds one more to get hurt with, the electric wire.
In some places, where wood is the cheapest material, well, some have to use that and manage fine.

One of the worst injuries I have seen was a colt someone had that jumped it’s wood fence, hit the top rail with it’s chest, shoulder and front legs, degloved all that area on the wood down to his knees, below on one leg and flipped onto a snow bank on the other side.
He was lucky, probably would have broken his neck if he had fallen all the way on the ground.
The snow kept the wounds fairly clean, other than the wood splinters that embedded there.
It took over a year and several skin transplants to heal, but eventually he was ok, just left some scars.

Have seen also plenty of barbed wire injuries, some fatal, because barbed wire is what millions of horses in the West and SW have always been and still are.
Then, people generally know not to use barbed wire in smaller spaces, it is intended for larger traps and pastures, where horses learn where it is, learn to respect it, it has bite to it and try not to hit it.

Saying all that, a horse can get hurt any place, we know that, no matter how safe it seems.

http://www.horsefenceca.com/gallery/red-brand-wire/ranch%20performance%20049.jpg

I love the fencing at my barn. This is similar to the welded pipe fencing at the place where I board, except that the pipe is galvanized so not rusty looking like in the linked photo, AND the wire is V-mesh.

I love, love, love this fence. The top rail keeps the fence from sagging for a couple of reasons. First, that welded top rail it is too high for the horses to comfortably rest their necks over so they don’t do it (it’s around 5’-6" high). Second, it is super sturdy so that even if a horse did rest its head on top, it is as strong as a hitching post.

There is no second horizontal rail to get hung up on, and even if there were, the v-mesh keeps a horse from sticking a leg through. The bottom of the mesh is raised off the ground barely, like 3" to 6".

The fences at my barn were built over thirty-five years ago, and they have had no maintenance, other than keeping the weeds cut along the bottom. The v-mesh is a little rusty looking in a few places but structurally still strong and sturdy. The welded pipes look like new.

The only place where the fences could use some maintenance is between some long narrow paddocks which the barn owner has on part of the property. Two of his mares got into a kicking match and the V-mesh there is bent and distorted and really should be replaced, but he doesn’t have any horses in it now. My horses are in a bigger paddock which stands independently, so there, horses don’t even touch most of the fences except at the front where the feeders are. The fence at the front is also still in great condition.

I cannot be more enthusiastic about this fence.

A short time ago, I posted a query about using metal fences in cold places, with the concern, or question, about whether horses get lips or tongues stuck on frozen metal. Several people indicated that was a problem, albeit rare. So my take on that is that I would not use this fence in Minnesota or Alaska, but for those places which barely get a freeze in the winter, it is a great type of fence.

There is a big difference between a fence constructed of pipe and welded on site as opposed to buying pre-made panels and putting them together. The panels can be done safely, but as people have explained above, there are a lot of things to look out for such as rounded corners which create a v-shaped wedge that a horse can get a part stuck in, and the horizontal rails where a horse can reach over the top and get its jaw stuck on the lower rail and break its neck. For a small space it can be convenient to use pre-made panels, but for a bigger project the pipes welded onsite are actually cheaper.