Saddle help - what do I need?

[QUOTE=meaty ogre;5472165]
I have a honkin’ huge western saddle and I want to downsize. I got this thing because it was so comfy, but it’s too heavy to hoist up on my horses, and it’s too long.

I like that it has roughout fenders and suede seat - I like the extra grip. I think I need a round skirt for my short-backed horse (and to make it lighter).

I like barrel racing saddles for their deep seats, but often find that the fenders are hung too far forward. I do mostly dressage these days and like my legs squarely underneath me. I also have found that a lot of saddles have the girth (cinch I guess it the right term) too far forward. I got rid of one saddle because it didn’t have a rear cinch, and the front one was too far forward and the saddle rocked.

I had an australian saddle and sold it because the stirrups were waaaaay too far forward, and the poleys were too trappy - felt like I couldn’t get out of the saddle if I tried (it was difficult to even dismount!).

I rode in a friend’s saddle years ago that I liked (it was a gaited or endurance saddle?) but I didn’t like the fact that the skirting went way down over the shoulder. Other than that, I liked everything else about the saddle. Shoulder clearance is important to both of my horses.

What exactly am I looking for based on the above? I know a little about western saddles, but not quite enough I think. I mostly ride in my english saddles, but both my horse and I were quite sore after a long trail ride. I just want another option for the times I do trail ride, or to give my horse’s back a break. Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]

If you like English saddles, you might want to try a Wintec All-Purpose for trail riding. They are very lightweight, the gullets are adjustable, the CAIR panels make for a very comfortable ride and it’s very low maintenance. I’ve gone on 4 hour trails rides without getting sore.

For longer time in an English-type saddle it’s hard to beat the Stubben Scout (their police and military saddle).

It is comfortable for horse and rider; is made with Stubben quality; and has 10 “D” rings for hanging stuff on the horse. It’s of robust construction so it’s not as “light” as some others. But it’s not a “steer roper,” either. :slight_smile:

They are not cheap but they are of high quality. Mine is now 6 years old, is ridden regularly and frequently, and it shows it’s a working saddle. But all the stitching is sound and there’s no deterioration of any component. I’ve replaced the stirrup leathers (I do it every 4-5 years on the theory that the cost of a new set of leathers is less than the deductable for an ER visit :wink: ).

Put another way, with saddles quality does not cost, it pays. :cool:

G.

Something like the Scout might be worth looking into.

I really want something with a different “footprint” than my english saddles. I look at like shoes…no matter how well they fit, if you are doing a lot of walking, it helps to rotate well-fitting pairs to avoid rubs and sore spots. Anyone who has been to Disney or any other vacation knows exactly what I’m talking about. Even if the panel shape or size is only slightly different, I feel that changing the weight distribution slightly from time to time can give the muscles in the back a little break and a chance to relax and recover.

My Aussie saddle was great in that it had a “western” style panel underneath, but mimicked more of an english saddle above. Unfortunately, it created the worst chair seat ever, and the poleys just made me feel a little too claustrophobic.

The Abetta’s are priced so low that I’m just not sure you can truly have quality at that pricepoint. I’ve found reviews all over the place online, but most of them are positive.

I’m scouring e-bay and criagslist for some higher-end options. I still haven’t found anything in a roughout leather. I guess endurance people don’t appreciate grip as much as I do.

I really appreciate all the posts - you all have given me a lot of resources and options, most that I had no idea even existed. I had hoped to just trade or sell my western saddle to buy something less unwieldy, but now I’m considering that I may have to sell one of my cc saddles too to finance this unless I do find a synthetic that works.

[QUOTE=Guilherme;5475863]

Put another way, with saddles quality does not cost, it pays. :cool:
G.[/QUOTE]

I like that quote! Very true of so many things in life. I’ll also add that a high quality used saddle is a much better value than a brand new cheap saddle.

[QUOTE=meaty ogre;5475907]
Something like the Scout might be worth looking into.

I really want something with a different “footprint” than my english saddles. I look at like shoes…no matter how well they fit, if you are doing a lot of walking, it helps to rotate well-fitting pairs to avoid rubs and sore spots. Anyone who has been to Disney or any other vacation knows exactly what I’m talking about. Even if the panel shape or size is only slightly different, I feel that changing the weight distribution slightly from time to time can give the muscles in the back a little break and a chance to relax and recover.

My Aussie saddle was great in that it had a “western” style panel underneath, but mimicked more of an english saddle above. Unfortunately, it created the worst chair seat ever, and the poleys just made me feel a little too claustrophobic.

The Abetta’s are priced so low that I’m just not sure you can truly have quality at that pricepoint. I’ve found reviews all over the place online, but most of them are positive.

I’m scouring e-bay and criagslist for some higher-end options. I still haven’t found anything in a roughout leather. I guess endurance people don’t appreciate grip as much as I do.

I really appreciate all the posts - you all have given me a lot of resources and options, most that I had no idea even existed. I had hoped to just trade or sell my western saddle to buy something less unwieldy, but now I’m considering that I may have to sell one of my cc saddles too to finance this unless I do find a synthetic that works.[/QUOTE]

The best way to give the horse’s back a break on a long ride is to dismount every hour and walk for 10 min., then rest for 10 min., then mount up and do it again. Changing gaits also gives the horse a break. So if you’re going to follow the British system (40 min. up, 10 marcing, 10 resting) that 40 min. will half at the intermediate gait, the rest walking except maybe for a few min. at the canter. The U.S. system was similar but the riding period was probably closer to 60 min. The mixing, however, was similar but with more time at the walk.

It’s the mixing and periodic dismounting that gives the horse a break. I can’t think of a long trail ride (2 + hours) that i’ve ever been on where the “boss” called a break. Frankly I consider this a failure on their part. I’ve heard many trail riders say, “I don’t dismount on the trail 'cause I can’t get on again without an aid.” This may be true, but if it is then admit that you’re sacrificing the horses back to your inability to effectively mount. Or get a GiddyUp. http://www.amazon.com/Easy-Mount-Horse-Portable-Mounting/dp/B0012DQEP4

Saddle fit is part of the process of effective trail riding, but so is management of the horse as you move.

G.

G. I agree with all that you’ve said, but an hour trail ride is about tops for me. I’d love to do more, but job and kids prohibit. But if I ever do make it out for a longer trail ride, I will employ that technique - it makes a lot of sense.

I’m just talking about distributing the weight over a larger area, and perhaps shifting the balance a little to change things up, which IMHO is also beneficial.

This thread has been extremely educational for me. thanks again