That was interesting reading how the actions of the bit work with the horse – I noticed exactly those results on my guy (who sports the strong, arched Welsh pony neck from his Welsh sire). I was having problems with my guy dropping his head too low with the gag; but with the Waterford snaffle he moves more like a dressage horse with the head up and on the vertical – much easier on both of us at the gallop.
Wowweee is right
thanks for the link for shop4bits- great site.
another question
Since my guy is a draft/tb cross- he has a shorter, thicker neck. In the ring he will travel low, hunter like or on the bit for dressage work. But on trail he likes to keep that head up and looking, and I just don’t like it up like that. I want to keep him low, which if I ask he will- but he wants to look. Should I let him? When riding him in the pelham tonight, it was like he wouldn’t go down into it. With a snaffle I can get him to come down into the bridle, but than he can pull me!!!
Try the gag. It will encourage him to put his head down.
never used a gag
please explain, if you don’t mind and have the time- thanks.
I’ve seen people use the Mikmar with the rope over the nose and a shank on drafties who are a bit thick in the throatlatch. Seems to be quite a contraption but effective.
A thing to remember that when using any pelham with a broken mouthpiece (even 1 jointed) is that they will collapse in the horse’s mouth so that the curb chain is too loose to work when you want to use the pelham rein. There was a discussion about this on the H/J forum not very long ago.
Also, just curious, I’ve seen alot of people using the connectors for the pelham so they don’t have to worry about the extra rein. I use 2 reins, but would you recommend to do this for hunting? I can see where it would be easier for the rider, but I’m not sure about the signal it would send to the horse.
God, now that I’m back on my fire breathing dragon instead of riding my MFH’s 4yo TB that thinks on his first few hunts ever that hes a pro, and hunts 1st field in a rubber snaffle on the buckle (so great, but I can’t buy him because I can’t hunt 2 horses at once), I’ve been getting in much better shape. I have to steer with my legs around trees so Blitz doesn’t run into them, and actually pull back on the reins. In the fields at a walk I’m constantly telling him “don’t embarrass mommy” since he grinds his teeth and praces around and causes staring :rolleyes:
[QUOTE=gothedistance;2816758]
Try the gag. It will encourage him to put his head down.[/QUOTE]
Interesting. I have always thought the opposite, of gags as lifting them up a bit, and bits with shanks as lowering them.
I am not a foxhunter, but a retired hunter/eq rider turned pleasure/trail rider. However, I am becoming interested in hunting since it is the basis of the hunter show world and have been reading some great horsey mysteries by Rita Mae Brown of Virginia. Anyway, I just had some thoughts on your problem- have you ever watched or read any of Clinton Anderson or Chris Cox’s training shows/books? Although they ride Western, I have watched them have great success with all manner of English riders - dressage to eventing. The tool I use in training my green colt not to pull on the trail is the one rein stop. Basically you teach the horse lateral flexion on the ground, then under saddle. When the horse pulls, you use one rein to pull their head around to your knee or ankle, wherever is comes on your leg. Once the horse stops and gives, you continue on. The first time I did this with my young horse, I must have one reined him at least 50 times! But he gets better every time we go out. Of course, the trick is to teach this lesson before you get in the excited atmosphere of the hunt field. Let me know if you have tried this or anything like it and what the results were. Thanks for letting me post on the hunting thread. I am learning a lot by reading the posts.
Oh, we see lots and lots of one reins stops in the hunt field. And two rein stops. And “feet on the dashboard and hauling back for all one’s worth” stops in the hunt field. Watching a field come to a halt from a dead run can be pretty entertaining at times. :lol::lol:
Truthfully, the hunt field is a world onto it’s own – and all bets are off for a horse remembering much of anything from “training” in the ring … or even bothering to listen to you when the hounds are running, the fields are galloping, and everyone’s blood is up and pounding. Heck, even a short run is enough to empty the brain of the best horse. 
Worse part is – you can’t stop in the middle of a run (unless you want to retire and head back) because the field is supposed to stay together, and keep up with the hounds. Hunting is not trail riding – you don’t go “at your own pace” but at the pace of your Field Master who is matching pace with the hounds. And when those hounds are running, you better believe you are, too, as is everyone around you.
I’ve found in hunting that the less I nag, the better my guys are at keeping their minds on their job. I am best off trusting them to “follow the leader”, and give only quiet reminders now and then of where they should position themselves in the field. A good bit that offers good breaking power make the job so much easier.
xeroxchick - the snaffle portion of the gag merely puts pressure on the bit against the tongue and bars; the slide, on the other hand, lifts the bit upwards in the mouth creating pressure on the poll piece which causes the horse to drop their head and to yield, bringing the profile to the vertical. Hence, the need for two reins.
Well, in that case, I used to show my JR/AO hunter in a custom bit made by James Shuttleworth, I think his name was. It was a single joint snaffle, slow twist sweet iron barrel with a port. It only took a touch to lift my horse’s head. He was fine at home - went in a plain rubber snaffle - but would sometimes get up at the shows. This bit was our ace in the hole to get his attention without getting in his face. The great thing about having a Shuttleworth bit was once you bought one, you could trade it for another at little to no cost. But I have been off the circuit for 10 years so I have no idea where or if they are still available.
joyshorse – they are, but I understand that you need to order one and be prepared to wait, but they are very nice bits.
I also used a waterford on my big QH that pulled and preferred for you to carry his head. In fact, that is such a good suggestion that I may try that out next on my TB that is transitioning from eventing to endurance. Right after I go take four more ibuprofen and sleep for two days after riding him on a training ride today. My arm muscles are going to be so buff after riding this little monster out. :lol:
libby
Anyone know if a link exists for the Shuttleworth bits please?
Hi All
thanks for all the replies! Went out yesterday with just one other horse and my horse was a dream. Have to try a group ride again, that’s our problem area. Want to go cubbing!
This is a link to an article interviewing Jay Shuttleworth:
http://www.centralequine.com/article.aspx?article=17
When I was showing, there were several tack shops that were at most of the East Coast shows and carried quite a selection of Shuttleworth bits. If you bought one from one of those shops, you could then trade for something else, if needed. The two I remember were Judy’s and The Equestrian Sho
Here is a shop that came up in my search - http://www.farmhousetack.com/bits.htm that says they have Shuttleworths.
I’ve never dealt with them but it’s worth a call. Let me know what you find out!
thanks joyshorse for the links!
