The Chainsaw Virgin--- help me?

[AKB]

I agree that cutting a tree down is not where you want to learn to operate a chain saw. It is hard to know where it will fall. Cutting up a tree that is on the ground is not hard, if it is not big. Shannon’s, I am not sure of what I paid for my Ryobi. It was part of a package at an outlet store, and included lots of other tools, like an electric drill and small saw, for about $150.

Read the manual carefully and make sure you have the safety equipment I use the hearing protection and safety glasses that we use for other jobs, but bought the chainsaw gloves and chaps just for chain sawing. It is empowering to be able to do small chainsaw jobs such as cutting replacement fence boards and cutting up downed tree branches.

[onthebit]

I have a little battery operated chainsaw that can cut a fence board and small limbs fine. It is useless beyond that.

Hubby has several heavy duty Stihl saws of varying bar lengths for various applications. I have been forbidden to use them. They are way too heavy for me to operate safely so no worries about that, a couple of of them I can hardly pick. I flat out don’t have the upper body strength to use his saws, for that matter some men don’t either. He’s a strong guy.

There is proper technique to use when cutting down trees, don’t underestimate how easy it can be to get seriously hurt. Dead trees are already unstable, even if they appear to be stable.

[SusanO]

And even though I have a chain saw and know how to use it - this week we had a storm come through and decimate my cedar trees:cry:. I paid somebody else to come in and clean out a path to the barn. And I plan on paying him to cut up the rest of the stuff. I am not risking fingers or toes to get that job done. And none of this involves cutting down trees that are still standing - just what is on the ground.

[Stonewall]

This is the only safe chain saw I know. I have one and use it for branches and small diameter trees.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZW9ZL8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000BANMUY&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=061Y05Z2PH9ET9CJCDFH

[DHCarrotfeeder]

[QUOTE=onthebit;8518739]

There is proper technique to use when cutting down trees, don’t underestimate how easy it can be to get seriously hurt. Dead trees are already unstable, even if they appear to be stable.[/QUOTE]

Cutting down trees is not for beginners.

Cutting down dead trees is for professionals. There’s a reason they call them “widowmakers”

[mvp]

[QUOTE=DHCarrotfeeder;8520037]
Cutting down trees is not for beginners.

Cutting down dead trees is for professionals. There’s a reason they call them “widowmakers”[/QUOTE]

What? Dead trees are called that?

I did google around and learn about the kickback zone and binding up, as well as the safety gear I’d need.

The tree is a slender birch tree. The trunk is maybe 18" or 2" in diameter and I think it splits into “halves”, each with branches, higher up. But I take your point about the instability of a dead tree. Also, does the texture of dead wood matter?

As a kid, I spent many, many weekends carrying the firewood my dad made from some huge eucalyptus trees that were on his new place and were old and needed to come down. Watching him cut that wood gave me a clue.

We’ll try this tomorrow (monday).

[2Below]

Actually dead trees are called “snags”, a dead branch hanging in a tree is a widow maker-because you might not see it until it hits you. Falling a snag is more difficult than a green tree because they tend to not have predictable lean like a green tree with full crown has. You also need to know if you want the butt to stay attached to the stump (safer) or if it can slip off (less predictable)-that determines what kind of face cut you use. Also using a bore cut for the back cut allows you to take the time to make sure your hinge is right and pound in a couple wedges to guarantee you fall it where you want. I wouldn’t recommend falling a snag if you’re inexperienced. For limbing and bucking the big things are to know where your tip is (esp the upper quarter), keep your thumb wrapped on the handle, wear eye protection, hearing protection, saw chaps if you have them, leather boots, gloves and long sleeves. I just read it’s a Birch tree that’s forked. Birch is pretty soft and easy to cut but a fork adds complexity. I’d really get an experienced faller to take care of it for you.

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=2Below;8520275]
Actually dead trees are called “snags”, a dead branch hanging in a tree is a widow maker-because you might not see it until it hits you. Falling a snag is more difficult than a green tree because they tend to not have predictable lean like a green tree with full crown has. You also need to know if you want the butt to stay attached to the stump (safer) or if it can slip off (less predictable)-that determines what kind of face cut you use. Also using a bore cut for the back cut allows you to take the time to make sure your hinge is right and pound in a couple wedges to guarantee you fall it where you want. I wouldn’t recommend falling a snag if you’re inexperienced. For limbing and bucking the big things are to know where your tip is (esp the upper quarter), keep your thumb wrapped on the handle, wear eye protection, hearing protection, saw chaps if you have them, leather boots, gloves and long sleeves. I just read it’s a Birch tree that’s forked. Birch is pretty soft and easy to cut but a fork adds complexity. I’d really get an experienced faller to take care of it for you.[/QUOTE]

Large dead trees or ones on their last legs aren’t as ‘stable’ as live healthy ones. The upper sections, large branches etc. tend to rot out faster and weaken. So when felling parts up there may break off unpredictably and fall unpredictably on the person below.

Or the inside/core of the trunk can be rotted and or hollow. Dropping a tree in a desired direction is determined by the notch cut, the back cut and the amount of ‘hinge wood’ the amount of uncut wood between the notch cut and back cut left by the sawyer. An even amount of hinge wood left and the tree should fall straight. Cutting out more of the hinge wood on one side and the tree will brake around from the stump on that side first being retained by the thicker hinge wood on the other side and will ‘twist’ and fall off center.

If this was done on purpose the sawyer knows what direction it will fall and where to move to quickly to get out of harm’s way. Especially knowing where to be to avoid ‘kick back’, when the tree hits the ground and it can bounce back.

If the core of the tree has been compromised it makes all of the above unpredictable. Or the tree trunk can ‘shatter’, split, and suddenly shear off while being cut taking out the sawyer. Hence the term "window maker’.

I was taught to have/use a ‘mini mall’ hammer (a small sledge hammer) and go around the tree whacking it to see/hear if it is hollow/soft. So you know what you are dealing with and being prepared and using proper felling technic for this type of tree and or choice another one.

The above is not a tutorial there’s a bit more to it. The vast majority of people aren’t going out and dropping large trees.

As I said in my earlier post. Operating a chain saw once proper basic hands on training is learned is no more dangerous then working with horses by and large. IMO. I don’t know personally anyone that has been killed using a chain saw. A few that have been hurt. But I know of a lot of people that have been hurt, some seriously and or killed working with horses.

There are a lot of very useful reasons for having and know how to operate a chain saw other than for felling and or bucking up a downed tree.

For those who are uncomfortable using a chain saw a Sawzall aka Reciprocating Saw are very handy to have in one’s shop. Much easier to operate and can be used to cut up small downed trees/limbs etc. Lot of things. Different types of blades for cutting all types of materials. Not nearly as fast as a chain saw but will get the job done. More versatile than a chain saw.

I am not recommending this one don’t know anything about it. Just linking for example purposes.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/43777424?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=43777424

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=mvp;8520151]
What? Dead trees are called that?

I did google around and learn about the kickback zone and binding up, as well as the safety gear I’d need.

The tree is a slender birch tree. The trunk is maybe 18" or 2" in diameter and I think it splits into “halves”, each with branches, higher up. But I take your point about the instability of a dead tree. Also, does the texture of dead wood matter?

As a kid, I spent many, many weekends carrying the firewood my dad made from some huge eucalyptus trees that were on his new place and were old and needed to come down. Watching him cut that wood gave me a clue.

We’ll try this tomorrow (monday).[/QUOTE]

Large dead trees or ones on their last legs aren’t as ‘stable’ as live healthy ones. The upper sections, large branches etc. tend to rot out faster and weaken. So when felling parts up there may break off unpredictably and fall unpredictably on the person below.

Or the inside/core of the trunk can be rotted and or hollow. Dropping a tree in a desired direction is determined by the notch cut, the back cut and the amount of ‘hinge wood’ the amount of uncut wood between the notch cut and back cut left by the sawyer. An even amount of hinge wood left and the tree should fall straight. Cutting out more of the hinge wood on one side and the tree will brake around from the stump on that side first being retained by the thicker hinge wood on the other side and will ‘twist’ and fall off center.

If this was done on purpose the sawyer knows what direction it will fall and where to move to quickly to get out of harm’s way. Especially knowing where to be to avoid ‘kick back’, when the tree hits the ground and it can bounce back.

If the core of the tree has been compromised it makes all of the above unpredictable. Or the tree trunk can ‘shatter’, split, and suddenly shear off while being cut taking out the sawyer. Hence the term "widow maker’.

I was taught to have/use a ‘mini mall’ hammer (a small sledge hammer) and go around the tree whacking it to see/hear if it is hollow/soft. So you know what you are dealing with and being prepared and using proper felling technique for this type of tree and or choice another one.

The above is not a tutorial there’s a bit more to it. The vast majority of people aren’t going out and dropping large trees.

As I said in my earlier post. Operating a chain saw once proper basic hands on training is learned is no more dangerous then working with horses by and large. IMO. I don’t know personally anyone that has been killed using a chain saw. A few that have been hurt. But I know of a lot of people that have been hurt, some seriously and or killed working with horses.

There are a lot of very useful reasons for having and know how to operate a chain saw other than for felling and or bucking up a downed tree.

For those who are uncomfortable using a chain saw a Sawzall aka Reciprocating Saw are very handy to have in one’s shop. Much easier to operate and can be used to cut up small downed trees/limbs etc. Lot of things. Different types of blades for cutting all types of materials. Not nearly as fast as a chain saw but will get the job done. More versatile than a chain saw.

I am not recommending this one don’t know anything about it. Just linking for example purposes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sawzall&rlz=1C1AVNE_enUS611US612&espv=2&biw=1600&bih=775&tbm=isch&imgil=obOtGJhJa8_-LM%3A%3BDVt10ayX4lU3SM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.northerntool.com%252Fshop%252Ftools%252Fproduct_200319179_200319179&source=iu&pf=m&fir=obOtGJhJa8_-LM%3A%2CDVt10ayX4lU3SM%2C_&usg=_aT9KAhH0Le4LD5Ay8eZKuNqw3l8%3D#imgrc=obOtGJhJa8-LM%3A&usg=__aT9KAhH0Le4LD5Ay8eZKuNqw3l8%3D

[OTTB2]

1. get the kevlar pants/chaps. Now if your not wise enough and somehow let the saw kick back or drop through the log and it hits your leg, it will hurt like hell, probably ruin your saw, but you will be alive and with your leg still attached. Start with small logs and other things and work your way up. To prevent the kickback use your foot well away from where your cutting to hold the log. Most of all have your buddy give you a lesson, it may not be rocket science but it enough saw to give you more than a few stitches.

[betsyk]

This is the most interesting thing(s) I’ve read in a while - thanks everyone - very glad we traded the chainsaw to a friend’s husband for some work he did for us recently. Happy to leave these jobs to those of you who know what you’re doing!

[shakeytails]

I am very comfortable using all kinds of power tools and wouldn’t hesitate to learn to operate any type of heavy equipment. BUT, a chainsaw is the only thing I have absolutely no desire to use. DH has a good one, and since we don’t heat with wood anymore, only uses it a few times a year max. It’s probably the most dangerous tool you could own. My suggestion is to pay your friend to do the cutting.

[DHCarrotfeeder]

[QUOTE=2Below;8520275]
Actually dead trees are called “snags”, a dead branch hanging in a tree is a widow maker-because you might not see it until it hits you. Falling a snag is more difficult than a green tree because they tend to not have predictable lean like a green tree with full crown has. You also need to know if you want the butt to stay attached to the stump (safer) or if it can slip off (less predictable)-that determines what kind of face cut you use. Also using a bore cut for the back cut allows you to take the time to make sure your hinge is right and pound in a couple wedges to guarantee you fall it where you want. I wouldn’t recommend falling a snag if you’re inexperienced. For limbing and bucking the big things are to know where your tip is (esp the upper quarter), keep your thumb wrapped on the handle, wear eye protection, hearing protection, saw chaps if you have them, leather boots, gloves and long sleeves. I just read it’s a Birch tree that’s forked. Birch is pretty soft and easy to cut but a fork adds complexity. I’d really get an experienced faller to take care of it for you.[/QUOTE]

You’re right in all technical senses.

I don’t spend much time felling and frankly it doesn’t happen enough for me to lay down anything other than trees that an experienced feller might not even bother to notch.

I know terms like barberchair, snag, hanger, springpole, widowmaker, all mean different and specific risks but I chose widowmaker because it drives home the point. They are all deadly dangerous. Saws can cut, but trees and branches can and do crush and maim. Fortunately, by avoiding felling you can cut the list of risks down significantly.

I’ve found the chainsaw manuals to be quite good in explaining the basics. If you take the time to read and understand all of the warnings, it’s not unreasonable to read the manual carefully, watch an instructional video, and don the proper protective gear is enough to handle everything other than tree felling.

If you have an interest, by all means get into it. It’s not rocket science, but there are a number of things to understand straight out of the gate. Chainsaws are powerful, effective, and entirely reasonable to learn to use for farm/ranch purposes. For some tasks there is utterly no reasonable substitute and blasting through a woodcutting task with a saw really is satisfying. Just take it seriously both from a safety and equipment point of view. And if it doesn’t interest you, hand it to someone who will take care of it.

David

[farmingforlife]

You can see many videos onine
Here one i recommend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlwb0IiUjnc
be careful while using a chainshaw and learn very basics of it before using.
Always keep sharpen your chain after use, so it will work smoothly next time.
https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/

[Jim_in_PA]

I’ll make a simple statement…learning to use a chainsaw is the easy part. Learning how to properly and safely bring down a standing tree is a whole 'nuther level. There’s a reason that “lumberjacking” is considered one of the most dangerous professions in the world. Please be careful and get experienced help.

[Simkie]

Old thread, spam reported, mvp is still around, so I think she survived :lol:

For those in the New England region (and maybe it’s elsewhere?) the Game of Logging courses are pretty stellar for learning how to use a chainsaw safely. Mr S took 1 & 2 last year and found them fabulous. He had no chainsaw experience prior to that.