Interesting article on bumper hitch trailers, truck size, and physics.
https://hensleymfg.com/big-truck-myth/
G.
We had an anti-sway system welded onto my 2 horse Trail-Et and I’ve never felt sway again. Feeling that in high winds or when semi’s passed on the highway was just hell.
That’s why I bought an Equalizer weight distributing, anti-sway hitch.
I know from personal experience that truck size, weight and wheelbase length make a huge difference with sway. The article is not being written from an unbiased perspective as the author sells hitches and anti-sway equipment.
I will stick to driving a truck that is appropriate for the trailers I own and tow. If someone thinks it is overkill, so be it. I want the numbers in my favor for safety’s sake!
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Please note:
Distribution systems =/= anti-sway.
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also check the trailer tire pressures a low tire can induce sway
but I believe Trailer Sway is going to be the name of some new county music performer
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This has me thinking what ARE the minimum vehicle requirements? I drive a Toyota Tundra V8 with a double cab and regular bed length. Would this not be enough truck for a 2 horse Trail-Et (w dressing room)?
This article does not even mention the most important factor in trailer sway, and that is correct weight distribution. Most trailering is a compromise, but having the proper weight in the proper place helps more than anything. you can mask the symptoms but instability is instability.
You mean like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=i2fkOVHAC8Q
Indeed an important factor. While I hate the word because it has been co-opted by the various classes of “fluffy thinkers” pulling a trailer is a synergistic exercise. The parts have to be matched correctly* and maintained to specification and loaded in proper fashion and, most importantly of all, driven correctly.
G.
*When doing the matching two thoughts should be foremost. Start with the First Rule of Towing Anything: Starting is optional, stopping is not. (Newton has no sense of humor where his three laws are concerned.) Second, consider Guillerme’s Rule of Hippy Common Sense: If it feels good, do it; if it doesn’t feel good, don’t do it.
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Thanks for sharing that video. Well done and educational.
I was behind a pickup truck pulling a utility trailer loaded with sod, and the trailer started to sway, and the entire truck and trailer turned all the way around and slid into the ditch on the shoulder, facing the opposite direction it had been travelling. Scared the bejesus out of me.
Guilherme, that is the video I was thinking about, but the problem with your Hippy Rule of common sense is that conditions change and it can feel good now, but you may not “Feel” how much cushion you have. I just a couple of weeks back had to bring my golf cart and my kubota RTV in to the shop. two different shops, I was feeling lazy and because thy Kubota shop was closer I put it on the back realizing that it was not ideal but for the distance and my experience level I figured it was not a bit deal. anyway headed down the road with extra caution got on the freeway and cruised along at 52ish for safety. I could feel the load wanting to sway, if it got excessive I just used the trailer brakes to true it back out, only 8 miles so no big deal. Well I came up to a hill on the fwy and all I can figure is that the weight distribution on the car was affected because the combination became uncontrollable and anything over 40 mph, so I got off and took surface streets the rest of the way. needless to say I was totally prepared, I have tons of experience my equipment is normally in tip top shape. had this not been the case things could have ended badly. not to self, dont rush things.
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Indeed you can’t feel what is undetectable (no matter what the various “mentalists” and “psychics” might say!
Many years ago I pulled our then owned four horse bumper pull with five horses (slant tied) for a two mile run to a trail head and decided to see what would happen if I left off the sway bars. It was all on a low speed, two lane road. To make a long story short I learned that those bars were there for a reason and that reason was to keep me from soiling by trousers when unexpected movement happened!!! We got home safely and I never did THAT again!
I’m glad your “adventure” worked out without mishap. Sometimes experience is a very good teacher, but they charge a LOT for the lessons they impart!!! 
Part of feeling good is being confident in the reality of the situation. Knowing and understanding the physics of towing plays into all of this.
I think the rule stands; but you have be synergistic. What Hippy doesn’t want to do that?!?!?!
G.
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I see no one answered Paddock Wood’s question about a specific truck and trailer combo…which is too bad, because it seems like many people who are already towing horses around do not know how to answer this question, and that is very dangerous.
The answer is - always - Do The Math. What are the specific specs of the truck in question? Not ALL Tundras or ALL Tundras with your wheelbase, or your engine. YOUR truck. Most manufacturers provide a towing spec chart that runs to several pages, because each different configuration has a slightly different towing capacity. Start there. Then you need to know how much your trailer actually weighs, fully loaded (truck scales are helpful if need be). How much does your truck weigh, fully loaded (including a full tank of gas)? Look at the weight ratings (not just the tow capacity) and do the math.
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Excellent advice!!!
G.
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The answer is get out your owner’s manual. Your engine, cab size, bed length, and differential will ALL play a role. Your exact towing specifications are unique to your vehicle.
Then look at your trailer, and it’s GVWR. If it doesn’t fit with what your owner’s manual tells you? You need to swap the truck.
As a side note for those of you who are looking at the latest one ton trucks, double check your GCWR for your rig to see if you need a CDL. Several of these trucks are rated for 30,000+ in towing capacity, and the line for a CDL is usually crossed at 26,001 GCWR (but your state may have different laws, so please confirm for your state). Note that it is not what you are ACTUALLY carrying that determines this, it’s what you’re rated to carry in that rig. So even if you’re only hauling one horse and well shy of that line with your current load, if the overall rig is rated to over the CDL line, you need a CDL.
Thanks for answering my question and yes, when I bought the truck I did look at the specs and added it all up and the truck was well equipped. When I take my trailer in for maintenance this year I’ll ask them to confirm all is well with all the components in my set up. I did not have it all weighed and will get that done.
I will put on my flame suit here, but dealer specs are crap. and to MyssMysts comment basically anything over a 3 horse is CDL territory.
the most important factor is axle weights, which you have to read very deeply into the small print to find, or look on the door jam. That said that is what the Federal Motor Carriers Safety Administration goes by, period. That said luckily for most light/medium/450-550 drivers no one will ever look at your door jam. there is the possibility after a major accident the insurance companies will but the scale houses in my experiences only look there to see if you are over 10K GVWR for the trailer to give you a ticket, as long as you stay under 12K for single axles and 20K for duals at least where I have been out west you should be able to avoid a second look and a ticket.
that said you want to stay as close to 60/40 tow vehicle weight distribution as possible, and but as much trailer weight on the tow vehicle as it can handle. for a 2 axle tow vehicle I would not want to go beyond 30% of on the steer and 70% on the drive axle on a tandem axle truck you can go slightly beyond 20% on the steer axles and 80% on the drives but even that is getting close to the limits of safety.
