UPDATE POST #23 Question about GN hitch safety chain fastening

[Brian]

[QUOTE=Jarpur;8489393]
Well, I’ve been researching trailer safety chain regulations further in my state, looking to see if it would be allowed to change out the clevis hooks with latches on my trailer’s chains for ones without latches. My thinking is that those would be easier to remove from the retractable loops (my small hands with super-bendy fingers have trouble with those big clevis hooks with latches, anyway).

So, I went to the state transportation code section that mentions safety chains, thence to the state administrative code that lays out the rules for them and, come to find out, the exceptions, definitions, and specifications make it pretty clear that they are not even required for fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailers! That would sure solve this particular problem. My first GN, built back in the dark ages (in-state if that matters), didn’t have chains, but I figured the rules had changed by now, as my last two GN trailers (manufactured out-of-state) have come with them.

The administrative code seems most concerned that the draw bar not drop to the ground and contact the road surface which, of course, is an impossibility with a GN trailer.[/QUOTE]

Tell that to the DOT officer and let me know how it works out for you. In either case, you still need to attach the emergency “break away” cable to the vehicle.

Here’s a pretty good unofficial link for individual state laws…

http://towingworld.com/towinglaws.cfm

[Jarpur]

Brian, I began my research looking at websites such as the one you linked, but decided to dig up the official word for my state. I’ve already thought that, if I was going to try to go chainless, I’d better carry a copy of the actual code and regulations, in case I was stopped.

I can always carry a stepstool, of course, but I’d much prefer not to have to get in and out of the bed at all, if possible (thinking here of hooking up in bad weather and possible slippery conditions, for instance). If I come up with a reasonable solution, I’ll post something.

Yeah, I miss the days of simply using the tire as a springboard. I may be short and not young, but I’m still agile, however, the tire thing simply doesn’t work with my current truck and trailer, unfortunately. Not to mention that I don’t really want to be kneeling in the bed, or scooting on my derriere, anymore. I positively hate doing that if I’m dressed in good breeches.

Thanks for everyone’s input. I think, for now, I’m going to attach something to pull up the retractable loops, either replace the safety chain hooks with non-latching ones or break off the existing latches, get one of the linked tools sold at Valley Vet to fasten/unfasten the hitch remotely, and look for a lightweight folding step stool that will allow me to reach far enough into the bed to not have to crawl over.

But, I am going to print out and carry a copy of the rules with me, just in case I’m sometime in a situation where I am not up to getting the chains fastened.

[Jarpur]

UPDATE: I just got off the phone with EZE-Latch, after watching the video on their website: http://www.eze-latch.com/

The gentleman was very helpful and he is going to send me the measurements of the different models, so that I can mock it up and determine which one would best suit my rig.

He gave me a great idea for the safety chain issue, which is to split each safety chain into two pieces. Have half of each chain already attached to the trailer, and the remaining halves already attached to the bed (where they remain), with the hooks at the free ends of the trailer pieces. Then use the hooks to join the halves. Supposedly easier fastening of the safety chains, especially for shorter people. In the video, what is shown is the chains already attached to the hitch with the hooks on the free ends getting hooked onto the trailer (rather than the typical other way around), but this version using short chain pieces with the hooks is the middle to join the halves is briefly mentioned. I’m definitely going to check out this way of doing it.

Also, if anyone else is interested, the prices he gave me were $49.95 for any model, $10.00 shipping (at least to my state, perhaps that varies), and $10.00 for the optional “hammer” that taps the hitch over (seen in the video).

[besttwtbever]

I know you said you didn’t want to put a step stool in your truck trailer but I have one of these and LOVE it. It folds up to be pretty compact so it doesn’t take up a whole lot of room.

[Jarpur]

I’m trying to be ever more aware of safety and physical effort-sparing considerations. It’s not so much not wanting a step stool on principle, it’s more that I can envision an emergency situation - for instance, of having to hitch up at night, or maybe in bad weather, when I really don’t want to be climbing in and out of the truck bed, step stool or not. Not to mention that my trailer is not kept parked on pavement, plus I frequently haul out to trail ride where I park in fields with somewhat uneven terrain, so not necessarily rock-solid surfaces for a step stool.

I would much prefer to be safely on the ground in any situation but especially in the above scenarios. If there is a way to manage that, especially for $50 + shipping, I’m very interested. Not having to scoot around on my seat and/or knees while wearing my good breeches when hauling out for a lesson or clinic would be a wonderful bonus.

EZE Latch emailed me the measurements: the regular model is 22 inches, the long model (for dual-rear wheel trucks) is 27 inches, and the cake feeder model (for trucks with stuff in the bed) is 18-20 inches, depending upon the angle of the gooseneck frame on the trailer. I will back my truck up to my trailer and figure out which length will make my life easier.