Weird situation with new horse - rearing

Thanks, probably exactly what I needed to hear from an internet stranger. I actually just moved barns a few months ago and switched from doing almost everything alone to having a trainer that seems to understand both me and the horse. We are making some slow steady progress marked with some backwards slips and some brief moments of excellence. She’s a really lovely mare in so many ways. New trainer has said almost exactly what you said. Learn from her, improve her, find her the perfect teen in a few years and then lets look for something young and a little fancy down the road. She’s teaching me a lot right now about tact and also trust.

I suspect there are many people like me. We were such scrappy teenagers not so long ago, priding ourselves in being able to ride anything, with sights on giant fences. Maybe we made mistakes but we never worried about those things. Then all of a sudden we find ourselves as AAs and sometimes we snatch our horses in the face for no good reason or worry about falling off understanding the full financial and emotional implications of injury. And is it just me or did 3’ get a heck of a lot bigger than it was a decade or two ago?

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Just a note about this horse and his past training. I was told he was owned by an amateur lady who “couldn’t get him sold” and was sent to this sale barn for 3 months. The sales barn said he wasn’t going to make it as a FEI horse as he was too quiet - why he was being sold for a reasonable price. Mind you this is a very reputable sales barn in Holland so why they would knowingly sell a rearer which would be bad for their reputation makes me think - maybe the owner is lying or she was herself a professional type rider. I wish I knew more about the upbringing of this animal - perhaps he was only brought up the European way.
While when he first came he was quite a kick ride - spurs and whip (this is when no rearing was happening) - he is most definitely not a kick ride now very forward and responsive. All the videos I have are of him ridden by a tall german man - very collected. So I don’t know - it does feel like he wasn’t taught to deal with ammy mistakes or lack of control. He tried to pull his business with the event trainer today who immediately went to work disengaging his hind quarters. He was perfect after that first 5 minutes of his shenanigans. I think the cowboy and event trainer are a good team at this point - with me stepping out of the saddle for a bit.

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Yes, of course. I just don’t want anyone to feel they are to blame if their horse is rearing in the field. Rearing is a natural response, and a Normal one to a horse feeling boxed in from
Any direction, human or not.

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Yanno… as much as rearing and also not promptly cutting that sh!t out when kicked to go forward raises the hair on the back of our neck, I don’t think the hair standing up on the back of our neck is the basis for starting to piece together a huge problem or a conspiracy theory.

That’s because:

  1. Baby horses don’t know that some moves are absolutely taboo. Rather, they try what might work and what is easy for them. If he were young, a foal, he might have kicked at you because, like any human toddler, he hadn’t yet internalized the rules that say “hooves and teeth are acts of war… don’t declare that with a bigger horse unless you are willing to die.” Rather, he feels pissed at the moment and has no filter yet, so he just does what he feels. Your little dude is just trying out popping up in front because it occurs to him and no one has said Absolutely No Rearing yet.

  2. Depending on how they are built in their body and between the ears, different forms of No said under saddle occur to them. My mare went through a brief bolting stage. That was a first for me. I think bolting is the short-sighted strategy of someone who is not in the mood to take care of themselves-- that means they are either really stupid or really angry. Previous to this mare, I didn’t buy the kind of horse that had the ego-strength to get quite that angry at his/her rider. But it fits with her body (not built uphill, a slightly built so not burly-strong for bucking or rearing, forward-thinking and strong-ego’ed); Running hard somewhere was just her Sticking It To The Man out of frustration (with a twinge of self-pity) in a way that seemed least risky to her.

Bolting or rearing would have been way too much work for my good- ol’ boy hunter gelding, so preferred some half-assed bronc-ing. No, not one big buck (this horse didn’t get worked up because he was bred to take a joke and be very, very kind), but if he could get into a nice rhythm of bucking that disruptive to his rider and physically easy for him, he’d try that particular strategy in order to get you to quit with something.

The bad stuff horses choose to do is still rational, LOL. And thank God that it is, because that means there is a rational being inside that head that we can negotiate with.

  1. So if you bought a nice, athletic, uphill, kick ride, that series of bouncy rears are what might occur to him. The kick ride is actually part of what creates this form of resistance; you’d have to really, really try hard to make bolting seem like a good strategy to this one, LOL. And in the case above with my gelding, his series of bronc-y bucks was the same thing-- not one huge “I have taken it and taken it and now I’m going to rear hard, so pissed off that I don’t care if I lose my balance at the top and flip over” rear. That level of “I’m so mad I’m willing to risk my body” rearing doesn’t usually go with the quiet kick-ride horse unless you really torture them (by dominating the sh!t out of them and not letting them feel engaged and confident during the training process) and make them go “underground” with their emotions. You don’t want to do that with this horse and it can be a tad easy to do with the stoic kick-ride horse. To me, this can be more of an occupational hazard with WBs than it was with TBs who don’t find it easy to suppress their emotions. To me, this is also why there are quite a few WBs that develop dick-move and purportedly inscrutable versions of resistance make people send off to cowboys for the reinstallation of a work ethic. A horse who has been bred to be tolerant finds it easier to go underground with his emotions than one who has been bred to invest himself deeply in going as fast as he possibly can.

But the fact that “go forward” isn’t his nature (and it is for my mare who thought the opposite strategy of bolting looked good), is part of what made him choose to get stuck behind your leg. See what I mean? He was born to get stuck behind your leg, LOL.

So "ammy can’t get him sold’ (who knows why… it could be that he has this sull-up streak in him that she hadn’t fixed, and somehow never triggered. It could be that she rode him well and prospective buyers rode him well, but the quiet, American hunter kick-ride-type horse is always a hard-sell in Europe) and “sell him to an American because he’s too quiet for FEI” are all part of the same horse.

Bottom line: I don’t think you need to worry about who did what or lied about what in Europe; just fix the horse you have. I’m not saying that on general principals so much as I’m saying that (and wrote this whole long post) because I think your horse might be less devious and less complicated than you think. I think the cause of his rearing (as opposed to something more rideable) is decipherable.

A better pro-- now you and your team-- would do well to really change that inborn habit of his being a kick-ride rather than just letting disobedience to your leg slide on a regular basis. But it might be that this rearing comes out of his not being made as-light-as-possible to the leg in the beginning. And with an athletic baby, people aren’t usually as worried about making a habit of being light to the leg as they are making a habit of the horse respecting the bit. Then, when a strong (male) pro rides the horse with lots of contact to keep him contained and directed, that guy can supply enough leg to “pave over” the problem of the horse not having been made responsive enough to it. So then, when you put the slight American ammy up there and she doesn’t give the horse such a forceful ride with her leg, but she does stun him by having the audacity to Kick Him when he stops because the rocks ahead are scary, well, that is just Injustice and Unprecedented in his experience, so he says No because you didn’t supply the kind of leg that was authoritative enough to either convince him to just do as he was told, or to reassure him that you’d keep him safe from the rocks.

Being light to the leg is really is an obedience thing at first, and then it becomes a muscle-memory habit for the horse. You want that level of habitual, automatic lightness because that means that your closing your leg doesn’t require psychological energy from him where he wonders if he can/should risk getting into a fight with you about it. If he forgets that there was ever a time he could disobey your leg, his life actually get easier because both because he has one less fight he might try and pick and because you can give him an even lighter, softer ride when he’s so responsive… And his choosing to rear as opposed to just be a horse you have to nag along with your spur comes from all stuff I wrote about above about scary rocks and a rider who wasn’t holding his hand with lots of direction and contact; his starting to feel safe enough with you to show you an opinion (while still being insecure about rocks and corners and the authority of your leg). All that stuff just meant that he thought he ought to/profitably could try to say No to you now. Again, if no one ever let him say No in the Dutch sales barn and/or his old ammy never both pressed him hard and/or gave him that abandoning ride rather than the more European ride that keeps the horse between hand and leg in a constant way, he just didn’t have a reason to explore all the ways in which he might say No. But his popping up and being stuck is just this baby horse’s particular way of trying to say No. He just happened to find this strategy on your watch.

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I have to say that while this thread is in the Hunter/Jumper forum, it is absolutely applicable across all disciplines. I am about as far from a H/J rider as you can get, and yet the excellent posts from MVP1 (and others) have given me tons to think about concerning my own long yearling that I am just beginning to “work” with. She’ll most likely be started in a western saddle, because that’s all I own and what I ride in - but moving forward I know I’ll be even more aware of my responsibility to give her all the tools she’ll need to be a good citizen, regardless of who rides her and what kind of saddle they prefer. She is not my first to start myself, so I’m not totally inexperienced with bringing babies along - but she is slightly different than the others I have dealt with. She’s the one for me like the one that @onlyTBmares as - the one that will make me think and work harder to get to her really good side, and make me a better horseman in the process. She isn’t bad, just a bit cheeky, and a little less submissive than I’m used to. So getting a different perspective on what and how to teach her is immeasurably valuable. Thank you all for the education!

Now, MVP1, what part of the country are you in, so I’ll know how far I have to drive to bring her to you when I invariably get stuck? :smile:

eta - I started reading this thread because I find the “troubleshooting” ones the most interesting - and this did not fail me one bit!

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Too true! Post-retirement, one of my Shire geldings found a second career as the “field enforcer” for the babies at a local WB breeder. They needed a horse that was big enough to decisively remind 3yo Holsteiners of their place. He was an epic giant of gelding with a firm, friendly attitude. They were thrilled to have him.

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There is some truly wonderful training advice in this thread, but I really think that the horse should be given a chance to heal from ulcers before assuming it is just a training problem. The severity of ulcers detected during scoping doesn’t seem very related to reaction/behavior of the horse (presumable because all horses respond differently to pain just like people). 6 days isn’t very long for the medication to kick in. My young, imported horse started acting rather similarly 3 months after I bought him. I have extensive knowledge of his entire history and the rearing, spooking, becoming overly sensitive to the leg, were all wildly out of character for him. It started with spooking and being tense, then increased until finally he ultimately reared and bucked until I fell off. However, the import process and associated change in lifestyle were significant (and he was imported from Canada, no Europe so way less travel). I had him scoped and he has “only” grade 2 ulcers and bot fly larvae (which are almost certainly partly the cause of the ulcers). It has taken 2 full weeks on the medications and I am just starting to see consistent improvement in his behavior - prior to that, he’d have better days and then “back to square one” days.

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As you are suspecting, many European “amateurs” are simply folks that don’t make their money at horses, but may have “professional” level skill sets, and ride multiple horses a day before and after their “day” job. A classic (and perhaps extreme) example of this from the dressage world is Reiner Klimke, who was a lawyer by day, and a horse trainer as a “hobby”.

I admire your perserverance. I gravitate towards tough ones, as I really enjoy the training process and figuring them out, and as MVP said, building my skill set for the next one. I’m not sure that I could handle a rearing issue such as you describe. I’m glad you have some good help!

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I import a lot of horses, and they all have something. It may be that the horse only reared a few times at the brokers barn because the’re used to dealing with all kinds of craziness but I guarantee you that it was not the first time he’d tried this trick. A rearer is like a recovering alcoholic… the longer they go between rears the better it gets. But with a young horse this can definitely be fixed. Agree that Warwick Schiller is a great place to start, and sometimes you can work some of this out on the lunge with properly adjusted sidereins. I’m not sure where you are on the West Coast, but Mark Watring is a fantastic rider and trainer that has a great track record and I would highly recommend him.

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Oh, yes, for sure to giving the ulcers a chance to heal before you guys start some serious program of pedagogy.

Which brings up another thing that young horses don’t know: How to sublimate pain and/or that they should. The truth of the matter is that horses who have long careers absolutely do learn to decide how to ignore pain. And breeders will sometimes note foals’ dramatic reaction to colic pain. Leaving aside for a moment the argument about whether or not an animal is in as much pain as he says he is, we do end up teaching our horses to tolerate things that hurt a bit.

What you can’t do with a young horse is make the right answer painful. That’s because the pain itself will suggest to him that that is the wrong thing to do with his body. In that scenario, he won’t have a chance to make that all-important discovery that doing what he can possibly figure out that his rider wants is the best way to make is own life easier. Instead, he’ll choose between two bad responses and there’s no joy in that for a horse who is still at the stage that he’s not sure he has to have a job.

OP, the good news is that you have plenty of easy, low-mileage, you on the ground things you can do for the next three weeks or so. In your shoes, I might feed him an alfalfa snack before I came to do some ground work with him just to give him every chance possible to have his belly feel good while he’s with you and being asked to concentrate. But you can do things that are physically easy that still require his focus and his mental effort.

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Yes, great idea! My vet recommended a few handfuls of alfalfa pellets along with aloe vera liquid or gel fed while tacking up to add positive associations to the idea of “working” and to minimize the risk of increasing belly discomfort during the work. I’ve been teaching my young horse how to ground drive, long-line (or double lunge), and a variety of other groundwork activities while he heals so I didn’t keep re-enforcing that “being ridden isn’t very pleasant” any more than I had already done. I might try a light ride this weekend, if he feels good, but I’m also OK with just doing groundwork until he scopes clear.

So glad you have a young filly “colt” to start. I’m in Aiken, SC. Y’all are welcome anytime. The winter here is fantastic; summer is a particular circle of hell hot.

In any case, I think the key with a bold baby intact horse (as a filly is), is to be clear, fair and keep any topic short. In order to be clear and fair, in her eyes, you need to not skip any steps. That’s because skipping a step leads to confusion. And “confusion” (a natural period that happens to a horse in any kind of training) gets understood as “injustice” (for the big ego-ed horse), as “scary and untrustworthy” for the timid horse and “a PITA I’d avoid or just endure” for the rather unambitious or cold-blooded horse. My Big-Mare-After-Little-Hunters-(and some stock horses) really taught me this. For the colts, then, its even more about teaching them how to learn and that there is a pay-off to trying to figure out what their handler wants than teaching them any skills or hard tricks to do with their weak little body. You have to tailor your teaching them about how to be good students to the particular mind of the colt you have.

Any skill you want installed-- even things like she turns to face you in the stall, or she doesn’t stop to eat grass while you are latching the gate and there’s a nice patch right there-- are things you have to teach her. You have nothing better to do with a long yearling, so teach her that these things are required and Always Required.

One thing I learned from the NH guys is how much responsibility a horse should have when he’s on the end of a lead. He should be watching me, making it his problem to stay in his space, with a loop in the rope, all the time. That’s true whether I make the rope long or short. I don’t think I ever thought that much about how a horse behaved on a lead rope when I was raised up in English world.

So you’ll make a nice, polite, anyone-can-handle-her horse on the ground if you hold your baby to this high standard. But the bigger pay-off is that you will have taught her the habit of paying attention to you all the time. That will make her life so much easier when she is started long-lining or any of the “real work” that leads up to being ridden.

But these babies also don’t like being drilled. I think that’s because in the wild, when they surely are bossed around by older horses and especially mares, no bossing-around from an older horse lasts very long. In addition, you want baby horse to feel success, and feel success often. So make a small, answerable demand, let her enjoy finding the right answer and earning some praise and then move on to a new puzzle.

BTW, if you ever get a chance to do some in-hand stuff or line-driving stuff over a trail course, do it. Or you can do that by setting her up some “mazes” of poles on the ground. They seem to really dig the problem of figuring out where to put their feet carefully. The quick, hurried or independent ones can be taught the value of allowing you to slowly direct them through a tricky maze. I wouldn’t have believed the value of in-hand obstacle courses if I hadn’t seen it. But they really do enjoy doing that job with their person.

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So glad you have a young filly “colt” to start. I’m in Aiken, SC. Y’all are welcome anytime. The winter here is fantastic; summer is a particular circle of hell hot.

Ha! I’m in south-central Texas, otherwise known as the devil’s armpit. Maybe not as humid as you are, but we get our fair share of the wet blanket air that won’t let you breathe.

Any skill you want installed-- even things like she turns to face you in the stall, or she doesn’t stop to eat grass while you are latching the gate and there’s a nice patch right there-- are things you have to teach her. You have nothing better to do with a long yearling, so teach her that these things are required and Always Required.

I know one thing I struggle with is consistency - she (and my other two mares) are at my house, so it’s easy to fall into complacency and not be quite as strict with some behaviors as I should be. I am also well aware that every time I interact with her I am teaching her something, be it good, bad, or otherwise. I try to be cognizant of that and not let her get too pushy, but I don’t always succeed - there are times when I just need to get everyone fed, turned out and get to work.

One think I learned from the NH guys is how much responsibility a horse should have when he’s on the end of a lead. He should be watching me, making it his problem to stay in his space, with a loop in the rope, all the time. That’s true whether I make the rope long or short. I don’t think I ever thought that much about how a horse behaved on a lead rope when I was raised up in English world.

I’m very fortunate that the breeder I bought her from taught her good basics in that regard, and she leads really nicely.

So you’ll make a nice, polite, anyone-can-handle-her horse on the ground if you hold your baby to this high standard. But the bigger pay-off is that you will have taught her the habit of paying attention to you all the time. That will make her life so much easier when she is started long-lining or any of the “real work” that leads up to being ridden.

But these babies also don’t like being drilled. I think that’s because in the wild, when they surely are bossed around by older horses and especially mares, no bossing-around from an older horse lasts very long. In addition, you want baby horse to feel success, and feel success often. So make a small, answerable demand, let her enjoy finding the right answer and earning some praise and then move on to a new puzzle

.I typically work on one or two simple things that she already knows, just to reinforce, then introduce one new thing, make sure she gets that right at least three times, then circle back to something known. All in the space of about ten to fifteen minutes.

BTW, if you ever get a chance to do some in-hand stuff or line-driving stuff over a trail course, do it. Or you can do that by setting her up some “mazes” of poles on the ground. They seem to really dig the problem of figuring out where to put their feet carefully. The quick, hurried or independent ones can be taught the value of allowing you to slowly direct them through a tricky maze. I wouldn’t have believed the value of in-hand obstacle courses if I hadn’t seen it. But they really do enjoy doing that job with their person.

I am a firm believer in ground driving, and will take them any and everywhere on the lines with me walking along behind. The neighbors are used to seeing me headed down the road, to the areas around us with creeks, logs, and anything else we can find to maneuver around or over. This filly is not to that stage yet, but I look forward to getting her there. One thing I will do is get some ground poles out for her - I think she’ll find those fun!

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What an interesting thread. Nice to see the useful, civil, discussion involving differing, experience based opinions making a return over the last month or so. Lots for posters to pick and chose from based on their specific needs.

Just adding my random thoughts, we Ammies often overdo being “soft” trying to be kind and end up failing to provide guidance. Sometimes horses used to being micro managed every stride know what they are not allowed to do but are clueless what to do on their own for more then a few strides when not told specifically what to do. That part of their tool kit is empty and theres lots of room for the wrong tools. They really just don’t know or understand which leads to us correcting their wrong choices without teaching what the right choice is. Hope this makes sense, hard to verbalize but the constant here is the loose rein “soft” approach. Horse just doesn’t know without constant guidance. Thats what the term “precise ride” means. Then horse gets corrected or disciplined for mistakes made without guidance, feels abandoned and get frustrated. Rider often gets scared as well as frustrated.

IME there are some horses that just never do well on their own that thrive on the precise, micro managed rides. Others hate that kind of management, especially if they have been bred and trained to work more independently. IME and IMO and know its a generalization but purpose bred horses seem to have a mindset to prefer one over the other by nature. Yes environment and nurture (training and riding) can have an effect and every horse is an individual blah, blah, blah. However some breeds/types thrive on the precise ride, some will tolerate it as drudgery but never need it and others are simply offended and will rebel.

No flames here but WBs bred with emphasis on Dressage, the average QH, bred as a work partner and a race bred TB are just not the same horse to start with and require a ride tailored to their specific talents. Certainly horses whose training was aimed at developing their natural, purpose bred inclinations, will do far better when ridden with that in mind and avoid miscommunication and misunderstandings.

For OP here, one thought about only wanting to back up. Had a few of those. Best results were to avoid turning horse into large, immoveable object and move whatever direction you can get it to go. Horses dont really like backing up and simply backing up and continuing to back up takes the fun out if it and makes forward look like a better choice. Horse wants to back up halfway around the ring? Fine. Quietly, without drama but he stops when you say, not when he wants- you are changing the subject and redirecting his resolve into motion instead of inertia. Remember, horse is bigger but rider can be smarter.

Also, horses have a short attention span, they get bored pretty quick. That can be used in your favor.

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Oh, this is so true, TheDBYC. My jumper came to me as a young horse from a great training program but he’s a big guy and very powerful. He was ridden by strong men and it took awhile for my much smaller, weaker self to figure out how to get my points across and be able to continue his training. I can’t push him around the way a long-legged, strong male pro can, and I make mistakes his trainer didn’t. It came together but it was a much longer road than I had originally envisioned.

A big part of it was that I also had to learn how to ride like a German, not a hunter rider, to get the best out of my horse and also to help him progress in his training. Until I embraced that methodology and furthered my dressage training we were talking past each other.

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Mvp, your posts on this thread need to be made into a little book or pamphlet. I’m working with a sweet-as-pie green 4-year-old TB who has yet to offer anything resembling a buck, rear, or bolt, but these posts have still been incredibly enlightening just in thinking how I approach my work with her.

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MVP living up to their name. I just learned quite a bit. TY @mvp

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Sorry, I suck at quoting, so I hope this makes sense.

In regards to your “yeah, I should be more consistent with my filly and two mares at home.” On one hand, I think horses who are at home tend to like us a lot and are pretty nice about helping us out (until they are not because all that liking everyone means they get herd bound… see below).

On the other hand, your being a tad inconsistent could be like making your filly into a Cat! You know what’s wrong with cats? It’s that when you try to show up teach them that life is unpleasant on the counter, they are smart enough to know that you, not the counter, is the independent variable. So they correctly conclude that “life is unpleasant on the counter When She Is Here And A PITA.” In other words, you can/should install great basics and a base-line level of “When I get serious and say so, you need to step up your obedience and focus.” IMO, we don’t need to have that all the time, but with these huge flight animals, we’d better have some of that experience of following orders in there. Depending on the horse, they might be the one that, like a cat, tests your authority every day so that you have to answer their test, every damn day. Others don’t need to constantly test the boundary and think about jumping on the counter. You’ll know which you have.

Also, I have discovered that a really nice test of the horse’s ground work (as well as a fun and useful skill) is my “sending him.” So, on the end of a 14’ long-ish rope, can I get him to walk out ahead of me somewhere? Can I fake/semi-line drive him somewhere from one side? Can I do that from the off side as well as I can the near side?

I like a horse to have this skill-- my ability to drive him out of my space promptly and calmly. We all need that button in a horse, sooner or later. If I don’t teach him that as A Thing, and someday he sees something scary on his other side such that he is tempted to jump into my space, I’m going to wish that I had developed his deep experience with putting his attention back on me, even as I’ll drive him sideways away from where my body is. The “get out of my space” button is needed. But the “I asked for your attention, ignore that thing and put it on my and the job (even if it’s simple because the horse is in hand” is an equally-important part of what will keep him from crushing you because, in the heat of battle, he forgot you were there.

We would not accept the level of “Oh look, a squirrel!” checking out under saddle as that is plainly dangerous. But the way I was raised in English world, we had much lower standards on the ground. You can regularly find grown-ass horses sometimes needed things like chains over the nose in distracting situations to keep them attentive. I am starting to wonder if that’s a training problem that we created because we didn’t bother to take the in-hand stuff seriously after we taught the foal to come along on our right side and we’d muddle through the rest of stuff we’d do on the ground with him.

Teaching a horse to be sent is pretty neat because horses that have had good ground work which includes your being able to turn them away from you, will allow you to line drive them forward and away from you, too. It’s nice because it’s a prelude to line driving that you can do on the fly without switching up any equipment or special preparation.

It’s nice because it lets you do some ground work in straight lines rather than always turning them. As an aside, I will say that I’m not a fan of drilling a horse on NH-style’s tight turns. Truth be told, I don’t think those guys do a ton of that every day or every week on their own horses, either. I’ll never take a horse to a 3-hour ground work clinic. I’m not every sure that horse’s get all of what they need from those tight turns or disengaging their hind end. Why can’t they get training from the contrast of switching direction? In that case, straight vs., say, a 90-degree turn makes the same point.

Sending a horse on a lead is a great exercise because again, on the fly or where the horse raises the question about something spooky and stop and work on that. It’s so cool to just answer the horse as he asks, stopping to exploit whatever training opportunity you happen upon. To the horse, of course, this comes across as you always miraculously being there to support him in each moment or situation. It’s even better if he’s the one who finds himself in need of support. If you see one of the above posts about how I suggested the OP might use an arc in ground work to have her horse stop, stand and think while facing the bad corner, just know that the ability to then stand back behind his barrel/out to the side and finally send him toward the object without you going first is a great end-point that you want to get to. Teach him that skill when he isn’t facing something repellant so that you have it to use when you want to make the point that he’s got to go where he’s told, even without the benefit of you walking there first. After all, this will be an existential crisis we expect him not to have when we are on his back and not there by his head to go first into danger.

Being sent on the end of a lead is a nice skill to have when it comes to trailer loading. You might have a nice enough trailer that you don’t need this and can walk him in, and you personally might have a great technique for loading him. But that might not be true for that horse for the rest of his life. IME, people have really different ideas about how to load horses and when the horse doesn’t get right on the trailer or know what their handler knows, things start to go bad and stay bad. I try to make a horse that will load into everything and load lots of different ways so that his breadth of experience can make up for a person’s lack of experience. IMO, knowing how to be be sent ahead is a basic skill that should be well-installed because of how often it can come into play with loading.

But again, the Being Sent skill is a nice extrapolation of ground work because it lets you make an interesting point about the fact that you can be in control or “with him” to help him, and in a training conversation, with your unstarted horse without having to be where he can see you beside him.

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Yanno… the good colt starters don’t think that bucking or any kind of violence or even any kind or resistance from a horse that rises above a moment of hesitation that says “I’m not sure I want to go there. Are you sure?” must be part of the starting under saddle process. But! That does not mean those guys haven’t answered the horse’s question about whether or not they Have To Even When They DonWanna.

And that can be confusing because so much of what those guys write about is how much they help the horse and strive to make the horse want to be with them. I believe they really do accomplish this-- the horse having accepted their offer of a partnership. But I don’t believe that means they ride the horse on his terms. Y’all know I think that’s unsafe and an unreasonable thing for us to dare to swing a leg over. So I speak in plainer, harder terms than do the Great Philosophers of Natural Horsemanship. I think the NH guys are writing in a genre that’s some kind of redemptive clarification from the more common trope of Breaking a horse.

But the NH guys who are so sympathetic to a horse who considers not doing as we ask because he’s scared, confused or tired, do know that somewhere in his education, a horse is going to have to make his peace with moments of those unpleasant feelings. What they offer is a way for the horse to work through them and the experience of a handler or rider who sets up the horse’s world so that those things are short-lived and always resolved by the horse learning to think under pressure so that he can take helpful direction from his person.

You do give him problems because the world is full of tarps and water and dark corners and piles of rocks that look like crouching predators. Half of training isn’t solving a problem when you get there. Rather, the smart and easier half is about recognizing a cool little problem that the horse brings to you. The more you can think about how to solve problems… and the higher your standards are about your horses’ being thoughtful about the world and you… the more often you’ll find these little training opportunities around the farm.

And you give him problems to solve with your help, or you let him tell you that the rocks that mean nothing to you are The Problem That Stops All Life (like the OP’s horse did by rearing, ferchrissakes) because those are the crucibles in which the horse learns the general skill of thinking under pressure and allowing us to intervene in his life and help him with a problem he considered serious. You aren’t so much having a conversation along the lines of Breaking a horse where it’s all about getting machine-like obedience from him and he’ll never spook again. That’s just not a realistic expectation, so the logic behind it is quite flawed. Rather, you are making a horse that never gets stupid when he’s scared, tired or confused, but rather one who doubles down on thinking hard.

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On the “hands on or hands off” rides preferred by purpose-bred horses.

I think that’s generally true, though the more sensitive they are, the more necessary it is to teach them how to keep their head in the game and think under pressure. And for the colder-blooded ones (not my favorite kind of student), the more you have to teach them to want to bother to continue to pay attention when they don’t see the need for any intervention from their person.

But! I think WBs “have plenty of cow” in them. At least a cutting horse guy who helped me with my hunter gelding told me long ago. And I have seen more than one accomplished dressage WB really light up when she was given the chance to push some cattle.

For those of us who jump, y’all need to know that putting your eye on the cow you want the horse to move is like looking to a fence to find a distance. And you will feel your horse do the same thing with a cow as he does with a fence, when he locks his attention onto it and you feel that “tractor beam of the fence” pulling him toward it. It’s the most wonderful feeling to be entirely with a horse who is engaged in doing a job for both of you so that you just sit up there and keep out of his way unless you can make some fine adjustment to his balance that helps him.

I don’t know enough about cattle to know why horses of all types-- those micromanagey ones or the left-alone-ride ones-- really engage with pushing cattle. I would suspect that the really friendly, secure, phlegmatic ones might have the worst time cutting cattle because they don’t care a whole lot about making another herd animal move. But it’s nice to give a horse a chance to have a job where he gets to feel some ownership.

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