Well, it’s coming up on a year riding in Franceland and I thought I would muse (aka vent) here in the name of cultural exchange. I’ve come across some things that I thought I would never get over (see: long manes) and I’ve run into more red tape than I knew was in production…but it’s been an interesting ride thus far.
We live in NW France (Brittany), which is not urban by any means. Lots of rain means lots of farms - of the artichoke variety, not the equine however. There are three barns within a 30 minute radius of where I live - I ride at one, my neice at another, and the third was basically a covered sandpit with a chainlink pasture for 30 horses so I passed (though the third barn is actually the show barn in the region…riddle me that). Even though we have hundreds of acres of rolling pastures, the three barns all offer minimal turnout - which I guess is OK because the horses are used in 3-4 hour + lessons per day. The barns have no windows or ventilation, the fences are usually a single electric wire 3 feet off the ground (or chainlink), the arenas smaller than a dressage ring with one or two jumps if that. All the barns are pretty ‘backyard,’ even searching farther out for a show barn leaves me scratching my head. Most people who own a horse keep them in their garden and then trailer or ride in for a lesson, but boarding is available for around 200 euro a month (not sure on the details) and lessons are around 18 euros for an hour and a half. Taxes were just raised on equestrian centers so my trainer teachers 23 lessons a week with 8-10 riders per lesson (no boarding, no shows, just lessons).
My lesson Saturday was the first time in a year I didn’t see someone fall off. There are usually 8 to 10 of us (see: smaller than a dressage ring) so it’s only possible if you follow the leader around the ring. Imagine a warm up ring at a big show and that is pretty much the ambience of the lesson. It’s nearly impossible to canter around the ring because of a) the follow the leader system which inevitably is lead by a pony who stops in the middle of the path or b) half the lesson is taking the time to work on their own things, like learning how to walk in a straight line c) half the lesson has gone to the fence to take a picture of them making heart symbols with their hands on their ponies.
France is a country built on diplomas and certifications and horseback riding is no different. There are 7 GALOP exams that a rider must complete. GALOP 1 you can name the saddle and walk trot, GALOP 3 you can trot through cavalettis and canter, GALOP 7 you can jump a 1 meter course, counter canter, etc. I rode with the GALOP 6-7 group and was the only one who did not fall off or have a refusal (the jump was 2’6"). The constant falls are not due to the horses - the horses are saints, happy and fat - but at a trot-canter transition, a circle, or just a horse who trots a little too fast. And of course, the refusals.
It is my holy opinion that the exam system leads to these holes - they do not judge on any aspect of equitation - heels down, eyes up, no it’s not a straight line from shoulder to bit (true story), it’s elbow to bit, deep seat, wrap your legs around the barrel, etc. It is judged on “are you riding a horse who understands how to do a shoulder-in when you ask” (note: almost everyone takes their feet out of the stirrups to do lateral work - is this normal?). So the priorities are interesting and lead to a lot of body vests being bought.
George Morris is irrelevent - there are ponytails flying, boobs bouncing, Wintec saddles and mismatched bridles, rubber boots and oh the manes! The long flowing unicorn-esque manes! I have started braiding before I ride because my hands get lost in the flowiness. The good news is I am getting great at feeling for my leads (because I can’t see anything darn it).
While France may not have the fancy barns and discipline for foundations that is so popular Stateside, they do win hands down on the hacking out option. Miles and miles of bridlepaths that go everywhere across the country with view to die for. And of course, the follow-the-leader style translates well while on the trail.
I’ve spent a lot of time being frustrated because I couldn’t find what I was expecting - a decent barn with the opportunity to show, lease a horse or ride some greenies, etc. I’ve spent most of my time translating horse terms to practice for the Theory exam (or learning horse French which is a whole other language), and my lateral work is getting pretty solid too. I guess I’m just happy to ride (affordably to boot) -no competion, no stress, though I miss having a goal to work towards on my own horse (the goal now is stay out of the way when someone falls off and pony charges around the ring). It’s hard to hear stories from Germany (so close yet apparently another world) about people who ride with great trainers on great horses because I just can’t find that here. But I’ll keep searching.
Would love to hear your stories on when a circumstance kept you back and what you learned from that. Would also love insight on what I can do to be a better rider while trotting around in a circle for the 50th time. Or if you have any questions on this side of the pond let me know.
