Adding a hot wire to wood fence... newbie needs advice

[FrittSkritt]

D@%* horses. :mad:

My barn’s fencing is weathered and old but for the most part solid. However, one section of fence keeps losing boards and falling down because the posts are either rotted through or broken (a psycho mare with no self-preservation literally ran right into one of them and cracked it. She’s since left, fortunately.) This section is also right along the grassy buffer between the ring and the fence, so there’s a lot of leaning and sticking heads between the boards.

Since the cost of replacing the posts and boards will be somewhat significant, I’m looking into putting a hot wire along the top of the fence to keep them AWAY and our investment intact! Additionally, this part of the fence divides the two paddocks, and those lovely horny mares are constantly teasing the geldings and causing squealing matches and fights, so this way we can keep the two herds separated and drama free. :rolleyes:

I have no idea where to start. It’s three board wood fencing, would have to cross over the gate that joins the two fields. It’s not super long – maybe 250-300 feet total? We have an electrical outlet near-ish, but would require an extension cord to hook it up, so I would prefer if we had a solar charger or something.

Is there some sort of “Electric Fencing for Dummies”? book available? Most of the stuff I’ve googled only addresses permanent electric wire fences and not hot wires along the top of a wood fence. :no:

Many thanks!

[crosscreeksh]

We have electric over ALL of our fences…it keeps everyone honest!! You can nail insulators to the posts - on the horse side - about 3" above the top board. If necessary you can run a middle wire as well. When you come to the gate, plan to have your gate handle hook on the side toward the electric source so that when the gate handle is open there is no electric running through the portion of fence where the gate is. (THAT will keep you from getting zapped while you are working the gated section.) Technically you can bury underground wire to span the gate area, but we’ve found that it eventually will wear through and short out from traffic through the gate and need to be replaced. Solar fences are more expensive and need MUCH BETTER grounding to work properly, but installed properly they do a good job. We’ve found that most AC fencers should be installed indoors because they are not “really” weatherproof. I’ve been buying economy fencers on line then mounting them inside of a plastic tote so they last longer. Most fencing units I’ve seen do come with installation guides. Good luck.

[Tom_King]

I’ve never had to repair, or even touch the #9 aluminum we have over the top of our fencing, and I can’t remember how many decades it’s been on there. I used the black plastic insulators for high tensile wire. Throw away the nails that come with them and use 1-5/8" Deckmate Star Drive screws sold in Home Depot. Use aluminum split bolts, sold in big box stores in the electrical section, on any splices.

I’m sure it’s not the cheapest, but probably the most trouble free.

[Tom_King]

I use Stafix underground fence wire, and run it in plastic conduit under gates. Plastic conduit is cheap, and if you ever need to, you can pull new wire through it. I’ve had trouble with the underground wire just in a trench, but never in a few dollars worth of conduit. Buy the large radius bends for the conduit, and glue it all together. Again, split bolts for the splices to the #9 aluminum.

I’m not brand loyal to many things, but fence chargers are on that list—Stafix.

[SuzieQNutter]

You will need grounding rods as well. You can also use stand offs if you want to keep the mares out of kicking distance of the geldings. The local produce should have everything you need.

As above don’t use nails. Over time they fall out and end up in horse’s hooves.

[saultgirl]

@Tom King;7895154

I use Stafix underground fence wire, and run it in plastic conduit under gates. Plastic conduit is cheap, and if you ever need to, you can pull new wire through it. I’ve had trouble with the underground wire just in a trench, but never in a few dollars worth of conduit. Buy the large radius bends for the conduit, and glue it all together. Again, split bolts for the splices to the #9 aluminum.

We also used the conduit to run the wire under the main gate. Much easier for the higher traffic area.

Our farther away gate from paddock to pasture, has the line hooked across. I almost never lead horses though that gate, though, so it’s not as much of a hassle to have it there.

Edited to add:

You can check out this site for fence planning info. Some of my stuff is zareba; my only complaint is that some of the insulators have snapped off from the weight of snow on the line, but some of them were purchased second-hand and I don’t know their age.

http://www.zarebasystems.com/resources/fence-planner

[FrittSkritt]

Awesome, thanks! The issue with the mares is mostly biting and squealing over the fence so I want to keep them from reaching over. (Not to mention my dirty cribber of a horse loves that part of the fenceline anyway… forget the mares as long as he has his crack pipe. )

The gate between the fields is rarely used but having the wire over it would be better since it’s also the mares’ favorite place to hang out and harass the geldings. :rolleyes:

[crosscreeksh]

[QUOTE=Tom King;7895154]
I use Stafix underground fence wire, and run it in plastic conduit under gates. Plastic conduit is cheap, and if you ever need to, you can pull new wire through it. I’ve had trouble with the underground wire just in a trench, but never in a few dollars worth of conduit. Buy the large radius bends for the conduit, and glue it all together. Again, split bolts for the splices to the #9 aluminum.

I’m not brand loyal to many things, but fence chargers are on that list—Stafix.[/QUOTE]

Tom - Please explain “split bolts”. The poly wire rope isn’t worth squat…it burns through quickly. #9 aluminum wire…if it does break isn’t there a risk to horses if it recoils. We just bought 65 acres of bare land that needs total fencing and cross fencing. We plan to do mesh wire perimeter, but electric and Bayco cross fencing with mesh for the mares and foals. How is #9 wire sold?? As fencing or something else. Thanks.

[Tom_King]

The #9 aluminum wire has almost no tension in it. I doubt you could even tension aluminum wire to amount to anything. It’s so stiff, that it will support itself across an 8’ span, from post to post, with no problem. I think even Tractor Supply sells it. It is sold as electrical fencing wire.

Here’s a picture of a split bolt. I hope the picture is self-explanatory. They come on all sizes, and should be where the wire nuts are in the electrical aisle. Get aluminum, for aluminum wire. https://www.google.com/search?q=split+bolt+pictures&biw=1366&bih=628&tbm=isch&imgil=WvtCFjBO4qPLAM%3A%3BmNc9w4TkgbqhSM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.lowes.com%252Fpd_47470-12704-770686L_0__%253FproductId%25253D3370332&source=iu&pf=m&fir=WvtCFjBO4qPLAM%3A%2CmNc9w4TkgbqhSM%2C_&usg=193SLC8Zxnj5um3IavMyHEH6dXg%3D&ved=0CFMQyjc&ei=YX-EVJG2BoiyggSO_oPwDg#facrc=&imgdii=&imgrc=WvtCFjBO4qPLAM%253A%3BmNc9w4TkgbqhSM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimages.lowes.com%252Fproduct%252Fconverted%252F783250%252F783250561261lg.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.lowes.com%252Fpd_47470-12704-770686L_0%253FproductId%253D3370332%3B276%3B276

[Tom_King]

Google 9 ga. aluminum fence wire, and you can do some price shopping:

http://www.jefferspet.com/products/9-ga-wire-1000-af9000?sku=T8W6&gclid=CjwKEAiAkpCkBRCtstKQo5ia5nESJACsCikR2SIiAewiTqz2iAS57yUWWI0iTkzsPwA-aA4yvt9kSxoCVpPw_wcB

[crosscreeksh]

[QUOTE=Tom King;7896080]
The #9 aluminum wire has almost no tension in it. I doubt you could even tension aluminum wire to amount to anything. It’s so stiff, that it will support itself across an 8’ span, from post to post, with no problem. I think even Tractor Supply sells it. It is sold as electrical fencing wire.

Here’s a picture of a split bolt. I hope the picture is self-explanatory. They come on all sizes, and should be where the wire nuts are in the electrical aisle. Get aluminum, for aluminum wire. https://www.google.com/search?q=split+bolt+pictures&biw=1366&bih=628&tbm=isch&imgil=WvtCFjBO4qPLAM%3A%3BmNc9w4TkgbqhSM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.lowes.com%252Fpd_47470-12704-770686L_0__%253FproductId%25253D3370332&source=iu&pf=m&fir=WvtCFjBO4qPLAM%3A%2CmNc9w4TkgbqhSM%2C_&usg=193SLC8Zxnj5um3IavMyHEH6dXg%3D&ved=0CFMQyjc&ei=YX-EVJG2BoiyggSO_oPwDg#facrc=&imgdii=&imgrc=WvtCFjBO4qPLAM%253A%3BmNc9w4TkgbqhSM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimages.lowes.com%252Fproduct%252Fconverted%252F783250%252F783250561261lg.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.lowes.com%252Fpd_47470-12704-770686L_0%253FproductId%253D3370332%3B276%3B276[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the picture…that is how I pictured it…we call them splicers. I mentioned this info to my husband and we will definitely look into it. We are currently in Ok and relocating to NE Texas…the intense sun out here “eats” poly electric wire. It will short out at joints, but just “rots” in the middle of nowhere, for no reason!! Thanks for the advice. Jackie

[FrittSkritt]

Good news – found a big ol’ spool of fence hot wire in the shed, so that’s covered.

What sort of “strenght” charger do I need to be looking at? Given that it’s just a top wire with no weeds/foliage touching it and only needs to give them a “HEY! Leave the boys alone and eat your damn hay!” reminder, hopefully not a $400 cattle-grade one?

[crosscreeksh]

[QUOTE=FrittSkritt;7897638]
Good news – found a big ol’ spool of fence hot wire in the shed, so that’s covered.

What sort of “strenght” charger do I need to be looking at? Given that it’s just a top wire with no weeds/foliage touching it and only needs to give them a “HEY! Leave the boys alone and eat your damn hay!” reminder, hopefully not a $400 cattle-grade one? :)[/QUOTE]

IMO…it is best to “overdo” on the charger. We usually get one capable of 15-25 acres or a lot of miles. The price is usually close to one rated for 4-5 acres. I want a charger that will “knock their socks off” with the first encounter…not one that just tickles a bit!!

[FrittSkritt]

Excellent, good to know. Is there any advantage of using taller (5") insulators than the normal 2" ones?

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

Do you mean extenders?

[secuono]

You can get solar or plug in. Solar is good when you need to electrify a section a plug isn’t nearby for.

Very simple to install and everything but the energizer is cheap. Actually, some of the plug in energizers are cheap.

I use hare 12g wire. I don’t have time to mess with sagging or degrading strips or ropes. I use flagging tape on inside fences and alternating color posts. They learn by the posts that the fence is here or there and from a distance slow.

Extenders just give more space between fence and wire/rope. Other than that, not sure why one would be better. Though if you use tape that wiggles in the wind, longer insulators would be good.

How many lines you need and how strong an energizer depends on how thick headed the horses are.

[poltroon]

These guys have a terrific catalog that is like a textbook for electric fence:
http://premier1supplies.com

Your run should be pretty simple because it won’t touch grass and is pretty short. You could use a simple battery charger and monitor it - that’s probably your cheapest solution. Solar chargers are great but the good ones are kind of expensive.

The Parmak 6 charger would meet your needs for solar and it’s served me well for a long time, and is not too pricey at under $200. The only thing is that you need a south-facing spot to mount it where the horses won’t bother it, and you do have to cobble together a way to mount it.

[AmarachAcres]

Another tip is this, instead of burying wire to go under a fence, go over.

We screwed 12’ boards onto the posts on each side of the gate and ran the hot wire up and over. The part that goes up and over is insulated but I don’t think that would be required.

Makes all issues visible and we found out the barn swallows like chilling on it.

[FrittSkritt]

poltroon - very helpful, thanks!

The battery-powered ones seem a bit labor-intensive…? I’ve heard it’s best to use a 12 volt battery, which means trying to find a place to mount it and keep it protected from the elements. (Unless there’s space inside the energizer that holds the big ol’ battery that I’m not seeing… )