After market trailer modification

[NaturalSelection]

I’m on a hunt for a 2+1 trailer with stock sides. I found one used but it’s still really expensive ($24k).

I have found an appropriately-sized aluminum stock trailer (height, width, and length) for $12k.

Has any one ever heard of cutting in an aftermarket side ramp? Obviously using weld shop labor, not DIY.

What about converting aluminum floor to rumber as a DIY project? Weld shop could add necessary extra floor supports and I could install rumber planks. Has anyone taken on projects like this?

Do you think mods would be less than $12k?

[NaturallyHappy]

I don’t have those answers but I can tell you I’ve had some adjustments to trailers in the past…definitely very minor. That said, the trailer dealership did a fabulous job and I thought it well worth the money. I think you’d have to take the trailer in to get a real answer.

[goodhors]

Is something wrong with the aluminum floor? Why would you want to replace a perfectly good aluminum (light weight, washable, no rot) floor with weighty rumbar? My mom had a rumbar deck, the plastic did develop issues, splinters, cracks, in time. Mats on the aluminum will remove any slipping problems. I would put mats on slippery plastic rumbar as well, to insure grip with hooves both shod and bare.

Not sure what a new/newer trailer with options you want costs, but seems like retro fitting a different floor and side ramp will be costly. Is trailer frame going to take the strain of loaded side ramp when not built to support that weight? Then add in weighty rumbar floor over weight of aluminum floor on the trailer structure. Lots of new stress and strains trailer was never designed to handle. You get a LOT of flexing in a loaded, moving trailer going down the road. Add in bad roads (especially major highways) like in my state, where trailers take a beating, could be problems ahead for you.

[NaturalSelection]

Good feedback. I’ve always been concerned about urine corrosion issues in an aluminum floor. I have always had steel frame trailers with wood flooring. Figured rumber is the top-of-the-line solution to aluminum floor. The aluminum floor may not require any immediate repair.

When I think about the side ramp concept, I imagine it is similar to cutting in a window on a house -would require a header across the span, may need some additional bracing, but shouldn’t add considerable weight or affect strength of floor/base frame. Am I missing something?

[clanter]

like making a convertible car the sub frame of the trailer may need additional cross members support if you add a side ramp…really have no idea if that would be needed but…

[Foxglove]

My aluminum Merhow is 17 years old --has aluminum floor with rubber mats. I check it each use (if possible, if mats are frozen, I don’t) and hose it when possible (again, not in the dead of winter). I have zero corrosion. Not sure a 17 year old wood floor would hold up as well . . .

[DMK]

Rumbar is pretty heavy and might require closer/more crossbar support to be safe. As for adding a ramp, I visited my (custom) trailer while it was being made to go over some final details and it was at the “frame” stage before the walls/insulation/roof were added. There’s a stronger frame used around the ramp area that seems … challenging to add after market that wasn’t like the rest of the framing, as you can see in this picture.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/24594726@N04/97953E

Mostly this all sounds like not only an expensive idea but a Really Bad Idea!

(FYI - when I sold my 19 year old trail et, the pressure treated wood floor was still in excellent condition, BUT I never left th etrailer windows/doors open, I never left the trailer dirty, I always had shavings in it and I regularly pulled out the mats and pressure cleaned the floor and tested each plank for rot/wear regularly - so PT wood can last a very long time, but just like any trailer floor, it needs love and attention!)

[Guilherme]

To quote The Duke: “I wouldn’t.”

Unless you are, or have the services of, a qualified structural engineer with automotive experience you can’t be certain of the consequences of such an action.

G.

[NoSuchPerson]

@NaturalSelection

Has any one ever heard of cutting in an aftermarket side ramp?

I wouldn’t do it. A trailer is designed and constructed to handle the forces and stresses it is expected to encounter. A trailer with a side ramp is going to have different forces and stresses than one without. Cutting a big hole in the side wall of the trailer will impact its structural integrity. Ditto adding a side ramp - the floor and frame in that area isn’t designed to handle the weight and torque of a heavy ramp going up and down.

By the time you add up costs of modification and then factor in loss of value - because the resale value of your “homemade” trailer is going to be lower, you haven’t really saved any money and you’ve potentially compromised safety.

[cutter99]

@NaturalSelection

Good feedback. I’ve always been concerned about urine corrosion issues in an aluminum floor. I have always had steel frame trailers with wood flooring. Figured rumber is the top-of-the-line solution to aluminum floor. The aluminum floor may not require any immediate repair.

When I think about the side ramp concept, I imagine it is similar to cutting in a window on a house -would require a header across the span, may need some additional bracing, but shouldn’t add considerable weight or affect strength of floor/base frame. Am I missing something?

Why not have W.E.R.M. or another type of protective coating installed on the aluminum floor as opposed to replacing the floor? I got a quote on my 3 horse slant load trailer of between $1200-1500 a few years ago.

[NaturalSelection]

@DMK THAT is an awesome photo, very helpful.

I hear the general consensus (big time aftermarket trailer mods are a bad idea) Thanks for the responses, I had to ask! 🙂

I’m skeptical of WERM failures and the inability to inspect corrosion under the liner. Seems like a small failure in the WERM could go undetected and result in undetected corrosion.

[clanter]

OP… back in the 1990s we bought a used two horse slant that we contacted the Manufacturer to see if they wanted to do some updates… we are in Fort Worth trailer was built in southern Oklahoma. We came to agreement that would run the trail backwards through the production line during the time period between Thanksgiving and Christmas which was their slow period.

They nearly completely disassembled the trailer sand blasting all steel to bare metal to check welds and assembly as a quality control review … reassembled, painted to current colors and added current decals … could not tell it from a brand new trailer

I feel ashamed that this only cost $1500

I have no idea if that might be an option for the used trailer you are looking at

[js]

Many will not want to take the responsibility in case of structural issues. We wanted a door installed from the dressing room to the horse area, had the factory door and blue prints so the individual could see all structural components but they were still hesitant to do it.

Contact the trailer manufacturer and talk to them about it.

[DMK]

@NaturalSelection

@DMK THAT is an awesome photo, very helpful.

I hear the general consensus (big time aftermarket trailer mods are a bad idea) Thanks for the responses, I had to ask! 🙂

I’m skeptical of WERM failures and the inability to inspect corrosion under the liner. Seems like a small failure in the WERM could go undetected and result in undetected corrosion.

Your instincts on werm floors may be spot on. My trailer has a werm equivalent on the walls, but he wouldn’t put it on the floor based on the number of floor replacement/damage he worked with.

Also, thanks, I heart my trailer and its “in utero” pics. I was geeked out by seeing it in production, and it was sheer luck that the timing worked out for me to be in Florida at that time.