Agility for the Slow & Fluffy

[Kyzteke]

There happens to be a serious agility competitor not far from me. She has all border collies and has a whole course set up on her acreage.

In addition I have a dog who would be PERFECT for the sport and I’m thinking it would be a great way for him to burn off all that energy he has.

Problem is, even though he is athletic, nimble, fit & quick, I am none of those things.:o And even if I manage to become less fluffy & less arthritic, I don’t think I will ever figure out a way to become less old.

So here is the question: what are the rules & regs regarding the distance limitations between dog & handler during their runs? Does the handler have to be “with” the dog at each obstacle? Or can you direct them from a distance using hand or voice signals?

I’m thinking of training him to be directed something like the way dogs are directed at sheep dog trials, although obviously the distance at trials is far more extreme. That way I wouldn’t have to move as quickly as the dog.

Is it legal?

[Bluey]

There are specific techniques to do just that, have the dog run without you, directing from a distance, that you learn in agility classes.

There is one competitor missing a leg that used to come to our shows that was on crutches, at times in a wheelchair and she directed her shelties from far away.
Works fine for her, she wins her share, her dogs have titles.

You can train to show as close or far away as you wish, just are making it harder for yourself not being closer, but if your dog really is good, you have the advantage of not having to run that fast and the dog can run faster without you.
There are places you can train the dog to do things on it’s own with you far away, like entrance to the weaves, that should be automatically correct, or not be pulled off course by those magnetic tunnels, when they are oh so close to other it needs to be jumping.
Then other places you can figure how to run a course so you will be there for your dog to run more steady, like down contacts, so your dog doesn’t fly thru those and can get injured or miss them completely, or at the pause table.

Then, you and your dog will have a ball training, don’t necessarily have to show and if you show, the lower classes are just as much fun.

When I got my current rat terrier, she was to be my next obedience and agility dog, after a rattler killed my border collie, but from puppy had something wrong with a hock and was off and carrying that leg here and there.
That nixed showing, she would be eliminated for that, even if it was not really limping from pain, but the hock defect, as per a top orthopedic vet.

So, we trained all thru her puppy and early years anyway and had a lot of fun with that, without showing, then eventually, as she was older, we quit.

Why not go learn more about this and see if you both like it?

[Miss_Anne_Thrope]

I see competitors of all shapes, sizes, ages, and abilities at agility trials.

My dog is what my instructor calls a velcro dog who tends to want to stay very close to me, which means I have to run with him. But I also run a dog for an older woman who can’t do it herself, and with that dog I basically just have to get my body language correct and point to the jump or obstacle I want her to take, and she does it.

I’ve seen people who basically stand in the middle, and I swear they just mind-meld with their dog, and the dog runs a perfect course. These are mostly border collies, and I very grudgingly think that border collies should have their own separate competitions to give us folks with normal dogs a chance!

Anyway, the point is, as Bluey has already said, you can train your dog to “go out” and with different hand signals or verbal cues, the dog will get the right jump or obstacle.

I absolutely love doing agility. I just started competing this year, but I’m not totally serious about it. If I never competed, I would still go to classes every week for the sheer fun of it.

And the dogs love it, too. Do it!!

[Where_sMyWhite]

You don’t mention what kind of dog you have but there is also Teacup Agility where the course and obstacles are smaller. That might also work for you (if you have a small dog).

Bluey, if you still have your rattie, check into nosework (National Association of Canine Scent Work) and barn hunt ( www.barnhunt.com ). (Kyzteke too).

These are both great performance disciplines for dogs or people who have limitations.

My BT is having a blast with both

[SarahandSam]

Barn hunt is super fun too.

I only do CPE and NADAC for agility venues, but both allow for “veteran” or disabled/older handlers to make certain modifications (like carrying the leash in the pocket, extended time, etc.). CPE also has Enthusiast and Specialist levels that provide some modifications in course time and so on. Both venues are very accommodating to handlers who may not be border collies themselves.

Being able to have a dog that works at distance is actually a huge benefit for agility. It’s also essential for certain classes, like Chances and Jackpot.

Early in agility classes, you’ll be moving slow enough and not doing many sequences yet, and you will learn how to work on distance skills.

[Kyzteke]

Thanks guys! Lots of good info. I have all mini-ACDs, with the exception of one Pit Bull. The Pit has his advanced medal in Sofa-Lounging and Begging, so he’s set.

But the rest of the pack is typical high energy, I need a job types you would expect from ACD, except in smaller package. My tallest male (15.5") is super athletic and he’s the one I’m thinking about for agility.

One of my older females is mouser-extraordinaire – better than any cat I’ve ever owned – so maybe she would enjoy the Barn Hunt.

Remains to be seen if there is much activity in my area, but I will check it out. Thanks again for all the info.

[Bicoastal]

See if there’s any NADAC in your area. Where are you?

I’d say the majority of handlers I see are slow, fluffy, and retired.

[Marshfield]

We are constantly working on increasing our distant work to help me compete better with the girls. I’m fluffy with fibromyalgia and RA

[wendy]

there aren’t any distance rules- in fact, the further the dog will work away from you the better, particularly if you have a very fast dog. There are some competitors who just stand there in one corner and direct the dog around the course with verbals and hand gestures. Takes a bit more training than running with the dog.
In general people who use distance handling tend to beat people who run around with the dog next to them because dogs are much faster than people.

[Simbalism]

One of the ladies in my agility class has arthritis in her knees. She has really worked with her dog on distance, so she doesn’t need to be so speedy getting herself around the course.

[gloriginger]

check out Lo Baker. She is such an amazing example of an efficient handler. She runs super fast border collies and ACDs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLatBg9cKNU&list=UU8vO_dw3XanAgTa4Tth3Vgg&index=28

[Kyzteke]

[QUOTE=Bicoastal;7898080]
See if there’s any NADAC in your area. Where are you?

I’d say the majority of handlers I see are slow, fluffy, and retired.[/QUOTE]

I’m in north Idaho…about 90 miles south of the Canadian border. CLosest actual towns would be Spokane WA or Coeur d’Alene, ID.

Huck, my male ACD would be perfect for agility if I can improve his focus…he tends to get distracted by other dogs. But he really doesn’t have much in the way of actual, formal training at this point. However he is SUPER athletic and really, REALLY fast.

Roxie, my older female, is slower and more fluffy herself, but man, is she a superior mouser. Not sure if she’d be as interested in the sport if she can’t actually EAT the rodent though.

I have to make sure I snag her as soon as she gets the vermin, because otherwise she will gobble them right down…not something I’m crazy about her doing because of the risk of disease. But it’s sure something to look into.

Have to read more about the Barn Hunt classes…are they judged more on how fast the dog “tracks” the rat?

Again, thanks to all for the good info…I’ll have to talk to that agility lady who lives down the road from me. Haven’t spoken to her in afew years, (we actually connected via horses at first, but I think she’s out of the horse thing now), but last time I was over there she had a whole agility course set up on her acreage.

[Kyzteke]

[QUOTE=gloriginger;7899473]
check out Lo Baker. She is such an amazing example of an efficient handler. She runs super fast border collies and ACDs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLatBg9cKNU&list=UU8vO_dw3XanAgTa4Tth3Vgg&index=28[/QUOTE]

Wow!! VERY impressive! And she is fluffier than I am. Amazing trainer/handler (and dog).

[SarahandSam]

[QUOTE=Kyzteke;7903724]
I’m in north Idaho…about 90 miles south of the Canadian border. CLosest actual towns would be Spokane WA or Coeur d’Alene, ID.

Huck, my male ACD would be perfect for agility if I can improve his focus…he tends to get distracted by other dogs. But he really doesn’t have much in the way of actual, formal training at this point. However he is SUPER athletic and really, REALLY fast.

Roxie, my older female, is slower and more fluffy herself, but man, is she a superior mouser. Not sure if she’d be as interested in the sport if she can’t actually EAT the rodent though.

I have to make sure I snag her as soon as she gets the vermin, because otherwise she will gobble them right down…not something I’m crazy about her doing because of the risk of disease. But it’s sure something to look into.

Have to read more about the Barn Hunt classes…are they judged more on how fast the dog “tracks” the rat?[/QUOTE]

Yeah, my dachshund unfortunately loses interest in Barn Hunt quickly because he can’t get the rat. The rat is kept in a PVC pipe, so the dogs can only smell them, not see them or get at them. You are allowed to wiggle the tube gently once they find the correct one, but for the rats’ safety, the dogs aren’t allowed to grab the tube or shake it or anything that they really want to do.

In Instinct tests, there are three tubes out in the open–one with the rat, one with fresh litter, one empty, and the dog must identify the correct tube in one minute. In Novice level, the tubes are hidden and the dog has two minutes to find the correct one, in addition to completing a tunnel and a climb. Then it progresses on up with more tubes, more complicated bale structures, bent tunnels, etc. It really is fun, but like you said, some dogs tend to lose interest if they can’t actually get the rat.

[Bicoastal]

[QUOTE=Kyzteke;7903724]
Huck, my male ACD would be perfect for agility if I can improve his focus…he tends to get distracted by other dogs. But he really doesn’t have much in the way of actual, formal training at this point. However he is SUPER athletic and really, REALLY fast.[/QUOTE]

I think temperament, trainability, training, and handling are more important than the dog’s athletic ability at all but the elite levels.

A lot of people say, “Oh my dog is SOOO fast he could do that.” “Man my dog jumps so high! He can jump higher than that.” That really isn’t what agility is about. Agility is about getting from A to B in the most efficient manner possible and doing so in an incredibly distracting and stressful environment.

Start with whichever dog is most trainable and best able to handle the environment. You’ll have more fun learning together and see more success.