Any DIY advice for building your own jump standards?

[beowulf]

Anyone have any favorite blueprints/plans, favorite paints, advice, etc?

We just chucked our ~10 y/o, heavily abused and falling apart standards this spring, and I’ve been meaning to visit the lumberyard to make replacements. Only thing is, I’m a total novice – what is the best/most durable wood to use for an NE climate? I’ll be honest, these jumps will not be pampered – and what paint is best?

I’ve painted my own jumps before and used an outdoor/patio paint, it was very thick and held up well – but any specifics COTHers suggest?

As far as standard types, I’d really like some basic standards and maybe a set of lattice; we will not be jumping over 5ft at home (ring is too small) so keeping them on the smaller side is NBD.

And the screw vs nail debate - our old standards were nails and the wings would fall off constantly and present a hazard; screws are better, right?

I’m mostly looking for fairly easy to build - I’m competent with drill and saw, but I’m no carpenter – and I’d prefer jumps that were not a million and one pounds – oh, and semi-affordable would be nice. :lol:

[SugarCubes]

Not sure how fancy you’re wanting them to be, but I am getting ready to build some jumps using 4x4s and 2x4s for the base. So the 2x4s would be perpendicular to one another and would attach to the 4x4 in an L shape, so you end up with 3 “feet” at the bottom of the standard. I have a pile of old 2x4s and just had to buy the 4x4s, I was able to get the 8’ 4x4s and will cut them in half, which saved me some money and I don’t need to be jumping anything bigger than that. Definitely use screws instead of nails, I’m actually going to bolt the feet to the base.

As far as paint, I’ve used an exterior paint in the past but it still needs re-painting every couple of years. I used stain topped with a marine varnish on my stall doors and think I’ll do the same for my new jumps, it’s holding up much better than paint. Check out pinterest, there are actually some good plans and ideas on there! Have fun building

[kashmere]

I can’t remember my Pinterest password, so this may be less than helpful, buuuttt I remember there being a ton of really good ideas when I searched there. Great, easy plans for basic and slightly more elaborate/fun standards (and fill, too). And when I say easy, I mean easy. I am not… carpentorially inclined, we might say. If I can do it, you can do it (and probably a blind monkey can do it, too).

[Foxglove]

In the past 30 years, I built an entire set of 12, including 12 cavaletti, 30 standards and 12 individual elements, not to mention 40+ poles. The suggestion to use Pintrest is a good one --lots of good advice, ideas, plans. There are a few books too --I used one, but didn’t see it on Amazon. My jumps were stored outside since 1982. I painted them 5 times in that span (1982-2016). I just last month gave them away to a hunt club member as my last “jumping daughter” moved away and didn’t want them --I am too old to set a course --and have no desire to jump a course by myself (I foxhunt, so don’t need to practice much).

Anyway, what I learned:

(FYI --you probably know this --schooling standards are a single upright pole, wing standards are two upright poles with something in the middle, generally 3’ wide --but can be wider, just usually not more narrow), obstacles are the pretty stuff between the standards --walls, coops, roll tops, hedges --and poles are placed over obstacles so you don’t have your pretty stuff nicked and rubbed by hooves going over.)

1. buy the right tools --you really must have a solid (professional grade) Skil Saw or other hand held saw. You need the best you can afford professional grade drill and a great set of bits for drilling holes and putting in screws. With the right tools, you can build anything. Wear gloves and eye protection.

2. buy from a local lumber yard if at all possible and ask them to cut the wood for you (if they will). I tried to buy my wood in January-February when the local lumber yard had little business. They would cut everything for me. As soon as the weather was warm, I’d paint, then assemble --saved time and since they used a table saw, the cuts were straighter.

3. Paint, then assemble. Saves oodles of time.

4. Glue and Screw. And take the time to ask the hardware people what kind of screws and what size you should use —ask them to show you the best bit for your drill for putting in the screws. I lost a weekend once because I bought square headed screws and only had Phillips and Williams (flat) screwdriver bits.

5. Don’t make your feet flat. When you make the “feet” for your wing standards, be sure you notch them in the middle (take out a shallow V shape) --if you make a flat foot, your standards will rock on the ground, unless you always use them on a soft indoor ring.

6. If at all possible, mass produce. I took 24 4x4s over to the high school and use the standing drill to make the holes in my 4x4s. Took relatively little time compared to what it would have taken me to use my hand drill. Now it is possible to drill your holes for your jump cups with a hand drill (I’ve done it both ways) but it’s a ton easier with a big upright drill. Same with my feet for my standards. I cut them all at once using the school’s band saw and a template instead of using my Skil saw. I used the schools “Chop Saw” to angle the ends of my caveletti --there were 60 cuts to make and that again saved me time.

If your local shop class at your high school won’t let you use the equipment (mine was ok with it because I taught shop, duh) then consider renting the equipment --might not be worth while, but if time is money to you, then it might be.

7. Watch your weight. I made SURE nothing I made was over 35 pounds. You do NOT want to make something so heavy that it takes 2 people to move it. Build your middle parts (obstacles) in sections. My coop was three 4’ sections --my wall was 12 sections, each a 1 x 4 block. It gives you more variety for the labor/money, and you can move stuff yourself.

8. Don’t (ever) use PVC or plastic. It doesn’t hold up and it will shatter making sharp pieces.

9. Put finials (tops) on all schooling standards and wing standards. This isn’t for looks -if a rider takes a fall and lands on a standard, he/she can break ribs. A finial (round top) will prevent this.

10. Paint NOTHING black. Horses read black as a hole. If you paint a pole black and white, the horse will hit the black, thinking it’s a hole. It’s not fair to the horse.

11. If possible make your stuff 12 feet long --poles, obstacles – life is so much easier if everything is the same size. 12 feet is very inviting to a young horse. And when your poles break, you can make a “skinny” using the 6’ lengths!

Foxglove

[Jim_in_PA]

The best thing since sliced bread for DIY and pro standards of any type are the metal keyhole cup strips you can bolt on to hold the jump cups. No more drilling ten billion holes for traditional cups and if you really have to be frugal, you can move them to alternative jumps when things wear out. They can also be fastened on walls and fence posts for flexibility and don’t stick out when not holding a jump cup.

[msj]

What I found to work for me was a 4"X 4"standard of non-pressure-treated lumber with a 1" x 6" pressure-treated base (4 pieces). The base needs to be pressure-treated or it will rot out quickly especially if you don’t plan on pampering. That way your entire jump won’t be terribly heavy. I’ve had both pieces made with pressure-treated and when your standard is 4’ high they tend to get heavy. I remember using carriage bolts to hold them together. Nails aren’t strong enough.

Pampering to me is taking them inside come winter but they do live outside from spring to fall.

I honestly don’t remember what paint I did use but I did 2 coats of white and then I color coded the tops as my standards were made over several yrs time. I’d give my neighbor the 4’ posts and have him drill the holes for the jump cup pins but since I’d do maybe 2 set at a time for certain the holes wouldn’t line with year 2004 and 2006, thus the color coding.

When my trainer saw the color coded standards she told me I was a bit anal but she wasn’t the only one to tell me that when you consider at one point, one of my horses had 3 lightweight Rambo’s, 2 midweight Rambos, and 2 heavyweight Rambo’s and one heavyweight Wilsun Dry Horse turnout!

Have fun.

[FitToBeTied]

I used trex decking boards for the base. No problems of rotting then.

[msj]

[QUOTE=FitToBeTied;8743104]
I used trex decking boards for the base. No problems of rotting then.[/QUOTE]

That’s the bestest idea yet! :yes: :yes:

[Jersey_Fresh]

Anyone have plans for jumps? Standards, planks, coops? We are building a barn and have a bunch of left over pieces of wood in various sizing and I wonder if we can use them if they builders leave it behind…

[beowulf]

[QUOTE=Jersey Fresh;8743561]
Anyone have plans for jumps? Standards, planks, coops? We are building a barn and have a bunch of left over pieces of wood in various sizing and I wonder if we can use them if they builders leave it behind…[/QUOTE]
I’d be interested in plans too. We have tons of lumber scraps, lots of contractors/carpenters in the family.

[Libby2563]

One piece of advice: do NOT use these plans from WikiHow. The base is too narrow so the things are top-heavy and blow over in the wind. I used them with tape to temporarily close off part of my arena for baby backing, and would find them lying down on their sides all the time. They just aren’t stable. I would have loved to use them for jumping one day but it seems like if the horse brushed the rail the whole thing might come crashing down.

[Foxglove]

There are plans all over the web --but I agree the WikiHow plans would be unstable, AND they suggest PVC pipe. I will say again, PVC is not safe, shatters into shards if you hit it, and it makes a horse an unsafe jumper as knocking a PVC pipe with a hoof is little consequence compared to knocking a heavy pole with a hoof. But looking around the WWW it seems many people are using PVC – here’s a site for simple schooling standards --but honestly, plans are every place --start with Pintrest. If you really can’t find what you want, PM me and I’ll draft you a set. I no longer have mine, but could recreate if there was something specific you wanted. http://lorienstable.com/articles/jumping/900-building_jumps/

Foxglove

[Foxglove]

This is how I made my schooling standards, but do add finials to the top for safety.

http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-exclusives/building-jump-standards.aspx

[asb_own_me]

I have a couple of books for building jumps and setting courses if anyone wants to PM me.

[LilyandBaron]

I found this website interesting/inspiring: homemadehorsejumps.weebly.com/fillers.html

Just had to learn to be creative, but for standards, not that expensive to build traditional, but do need to pay attention to the base. I’ve seen stuff about using a Christmas tree stand to hold the 4x4 upright, but have never tried it myself. OR, do what I did and score 12 4’ tall standards (plenty for me!) with jump cups at a local auction, for $10 for ALL of them!!! Yes, I was high on that deal for weeks:)

[FrittSkritt]

8x4x4 from Home Depot (cut in half), with four “feet” made from 2x4s. (I forgot how long I made each foot, maybe 18"? I used two deck screws to drill them into the base, then used a third on each foot to secure to the adjoining foot. (Hard to describe!)

Ditto on the drill press for holes. I had to use a regular drill (if you do, use a 3/8" spade bit, NOT a normal bit!!!), and the only way I was able to get them sort of straight was to go in and reverse out half an inch at a time.

[FitToBeTied]

I use 4x4 for rails and use a router to round the corners. They provide a good whack for a careless horse but the rounded edges keep them getting cut.

I also use barrels from the local car wash.

I have poles and planks in a variety sizes. Planks are easy. Just cut to the desired length and then notch the ends. They will hang on the cups then. I use trex planking for plank jumps. Mine for skinnies are as narrow as 4’ and up to 6’.

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=Libby2563;8743710]
One piece of advice: do NOT use these plans from WikiHow. The base is too narrow so the things are top-heavy and blow over in the wind. I used them with tape to temporarily close off part of my arena for baby backing, and would find them lying down on their sides all the time. They just aren’t stable. I would have loved to use them for jumping one day but it seems like if the horse brushed the rail the whole thing might come crashing down.[/QUOTE]

The stability issues you have experienced isn’t because of the plans more so from the “engineering flaw” in the length of the “feet/legs”. The base is too narrow. Especially when set on uneven ground, sand etc.

The design itself is the standard (no pun intended) way of going about it.

12" is too short. 16" ( 1’-4") is better and efficient use of materials. An 8-10-12 foot board cut in 16" increments will not have any “scrape” left over. But you have to take into account the “kerf” thickness of the saw blade when making the cuts. Otherwise the last “foot/leg” will be shorter than the rest.

18" seems to provide a nice stable base. You will get 5, 18"cuts out of an 8’ board with 5 1/2+ inches of scrape. But it will give 5 equal size feet.

Only use pressure treated 2X it will last a long time without rotting. These plans use 2X8 material. I use 2X6. Plenty strong enough and I like the look of the lower “profile”.

The “miter” cut, the angle cut is more for looks than it is necessary. You can take this step out to save time. Personally I like the look. I measure 9" from the post “butt” end and mark, measure 2 1/2 or 3" on the opposite butt end and mark, take a straight edge and draw the angle cut.

Make all the cuts for you “starter” foot and use as a template for the rest.

These plans use wood screw to attach the legs to the post. Personally I find using carriage bolts gives superior holding strength. I use 3/8, 8" with washers and nuts. But this does take a bit more effort and expertise. But once bolted on they rarely come loose. 2 bolts on one “set” of feet for a total of 4 needed per standard.

A “C” clamp comes in handy to hold the 2 opposing feet in place to drill the 2 holes needed so the holes line up correctly when drilling through both feet and the post. Buy an 8"+ 3/8 drill bit so you can go all the way through.

When drilling the holes for the other set of feet remember not to line up the holes that same as the first set. Otherwise when you go to install the bolts they will hit the first set of bolts. Move up or down 1" or so. This is very important to remember.

Best to make 2 feet/legs and mark and drill the holes in the right places and use these as your template for all of the other feet/legs. Make sure to stack in 2 different piles.

Jump standards get dragged around, knocked over etc. which puts a fair amount of stress on the attaching points. Wood screws don’t tend to stand the test of time and abuse.

If using wood screw I would use these;

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-10-x-3-in-T-Star-Drive-Flat-Head-Partial-Thread-Yellow-Zinc-Coated-Multi-Material-Screw-72-per-Box-4191020500756/202040973

They have a “star head” (driver bit included) so unlike Philps heads they don’t “cam out” when screwing in. Especially when using a drill driver or by hand. The best and VERY handy power tool to own is an Impact Driver. They make short work of a lot of projects. Especially when having to drive lots of screws and even more so for using with hard wood like oak.

Avoid using “Deckmate screws”. These are meant to be used to screw deck boards “down”, flat onto the framing. They have very poor shear strength and break easily when used on something that will get “torqued”.

If using wood screws I strongly suggest using construction adhesive between the leg and the post. Make sure it is rated for exterior use.

If not using carriage bolts I would use 3/8, 3 1/2" lag bolts with washers instead of the smaller wood screws. Use 3 in a “V” pattern.

Using the rail cup is a good way to go about lining up the holes. But it is very important to try and keep the drill perpendicular otherwise the drill bit won’t line up with the hole on the other side. Obviously if one has access to a drill press it will make the task go much quicker with perpendicular holes. Use a drill bit that is slightly bigger than the diameter of the pin. Assuming it will fit in the cup hole if using one line up the holes. When I have used the exact size the wood can tend to swell and make it difficult to slide the pin in at times.

Another way to make fast work of marking and drilling the holes is to make a template out of a 2X4. Mark and drill holes as explained. Take this and clamp it to the post and drill away. Remove and go on to the next post. Saves time on repeated measuring. Drill all of the posts before attaching the legs.

Another way to make simple feet is to just cut, 2 18" or 24" 1X6 pressure treated board, deck board are even better because they are a full 1" thick. I have used broken oak fence boards.
Stack and form a “+” drill a hole in the center and use a long ½ lag bolt and bolt to the bottom of the post. Use construction adhesive. Because they are “stacked” the bottom of one leg of the + is going to be higher than the other one. Measure and cut a “filler” to screw to the bottom of either side to fill in the gap. Using 2 3/8 lag bolts is better, keeps the “platform” from coming loose and “spinning” when being moved repeatedly

This is quicker than the other way but if you want to set 2 Standards next to each other they do not “fit” very well, the legs get in the way.

To give a finished look to the the top of the Standard go the deck/fencing material section of a Home Depot, Lowes etc. They have various “caps” made to fit on top of a 4X4, screw in balls etc.

[EventerAJ]

Lots of good suggestions here. I was lucky enough to have MANY MANY rough cut oak 4x4s on the new farm-- we dismantled tobacco rails from two tobacco barns, each about 14’ long. Cut into 5’ sections for standards, used 18" 1x6s (oak fence boards, actually) for the standard feet. We had to trim the 4x4s lengthwise, as they were TRUE four inches (or more) being rough-cut, and the jump cups wouldn’t fit. I like 5’ standards, as my upper level horses will need to jump up to 4’3"+. Plus, the optical illusion of a 3’6" oxer on 4ft standards looks HUGE!

We cut the 4x4s into 10’ sections for jump rails and used a circular saw to round the corners. I’ve had both 12’ and 10’ jump poles…12’ looks show-ring nice, but if you’re hauling them around and building courses by yourself, you will appreciate the 10’ poles a lot more. They weigh less and are much easier to deal with on a daily basis, yet still plenty wide for the young green horses.

For paint, I prefer exterior latex. Two coats of white (I like 5 gallon white fence paint) on everything, and don’t forget the bottom of the standards-- that touches the ground and needs the most protection. Use masking tape to mark your rails for colored stripes. Find cheaper “oops” paint at the hardware store, quarts that were mixed the wrong color for someone else. I’ve had lavender, teal, and other “odd” colors because they were on the half-price rack. If none available, I use regular basic colors (red, yellow, blue, green, black). Again, I use latex paint-- don’t mix latex and oil, one won’t cover the other very well. Latex dries faster, cleans up with soap and water, and rinses out much easier from your brushes (and clothes and skin!).

Other tips: use a small paintbrush to paint a black line on your standards (at 3’, or 3’3") so it’s easy to set jumps the same height. Paint a matching colored stripe on the end of your jump rails, so when they are stored in a pile, you can look at the stacked ends and pick out the colored rails you want to match. Expect to paint jumps every other year, or possibly every 3 years with lighter use and winter storage.

[SonnysMom]

DH and I build and repair my trainer’s jumps. We have found the miracle of glue it then screw it. Use a good wood glue anywhere two pieces of wood touch each other. It makes everything much more stable and won’t wiggle loose. We use it on the jump standards, cavaletti’s, coops, roll top. It has resulted in much less repairs over time.