Any tractor battery experts on the forum today?

I had to replace the battery in my JD 1023E. The original battery was maintenance free and had a vent tube attached. The owner’s manual states removing the vent tube as part of the removal instructions. I did not go to JD for the replacement, the dealer is 30 miles away, and they said I could get a replacement at my local auto parts store. I got the new battery home, and there is no place for the vent tube. It appears to have cells, unlike the original, is that why no vent tube? It matches the other specs for the original, is this battery ok for my tractor? :confused:

Get a tractor, they said. You’ll love it, they said. :no: This thing is a pain in the rear, and more trouble than help, so far.

Thanks!

I am not familiar with this model JD but unless the battery is fully enclosed and has no air circulating I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Assuming you understand what I am talking about. I see battery vent tubes used in some equipment from time to time. They are used to “vent” the very small amount of hydrogen gas that is a “by product” of the battery recharging process.

Hydrogen gas is very flammable but it does have to build to a certain level of concentration. It is a large part of what we breathe.

The time to worry about hydrogen gas build up is when a battery charger is being used. If left charging too long with a high setting the battery can and will “boil” expelling lots of hydrogen gasses. Which is why it is always best to remove and or loosen the “caps” on batteries that have them and charge in airy “open spaces”.

All the “maintenance free” batteries I have seen have a little “vent” somewhere on it.

Sorry to hear your JD is being a PITA. My full size utility JD has given me little to no trouble in over 10 years of heavy use since buying new.

Thank you, Gumtree. Yes, I know what you mean re: fully enclosed. It is well ventilated, lots of air circulation in the engine compartment.

It’s not a bad tractor, really, it’s just frustrating. I didn’t think the learning curve would be so steep. Thanks again for your response.

from the manual I could find on-line for the tractor it appears the original battery was a lead acid flood cell as they provide guide lines to top off cells with distilled water … a sealed battery would not allow that.

From what I can see the vent tube is routed to the battery box, not connected to the battery

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMLVU25250_A2/Output/Index.html?tM=

When you say it has cells do you mean it has 6 caps on the battery? If so they will have vent holes in the top of the cap.

If it is a maintenance free sealed battery it will have a vent hole.

As long as the vent holes are not covered and can breathe it is okay.

Says my hubby who has his fingers in his ears and saying lalalala at you not loving a tractor.

With a tractor, especially if it has a front end loader, you can do anything. It will lift anything and you will be amazed at what implements can do off the PTO ( and the price)

Hubby is back again. What horse power? Is his name Johnny? and if you don’t look after him he won’t look after you. You need to send him to us!!! :stuck_out_tongue:

Remember on a right hand turn the inside leg asks for speed and your hands control steering.

Just put the new battery in and use the tractor.

[QUOTE=SuzieQNutter;8191219]
When you say it has cells do you mean it has 6 caps on the battery? If so they will have vent holes in the top of the cap.

If it is a maintenance free sealed battery it will have a vent hole.

As long as the vent holes are not covered and can breathe it is okay.

Says my hubby who has his fingers in his ears and saying lalalala at you not loving a tractor.

With a tractor, especially if it has a front end loader, you can do anything. It will lift anything and you will be amazed at what implements can do off the PTO ( and the price)

Hubby is back again. What horse power? Is his name Johnny? and if you don’t look after him he won’t look after you. You need to send him to us!!! :stuck_out_tongue:

Remember on a right hand turn the inside leg asks for speed and your hands control steering.[/QUOTE]

The “vent tube” connects to a “collector” that is either built into the battery or fits over top the battery or the battery sits in a sealed box that the vet tube attaches to. . They are almost always found in cars that have the battery in the trunk or somewhere besides under the hood.

I like to give a little information, sometimes a lot of information, other times TMI. Rather than just a simple answer. Kind of like the metaphor; “give a man a fish, teach a man to fish”.

The short answer is exactly what Tom King said.

[QUOTE=clanter;8191199]
from the manual I could find on-line for the tractor it appears the original battery was a lead acid flood cell as they provide guide lines to top off cells with distilled water … a sealed battery would not allow that.

From what I can see the vent tube is routed to the battery box, not connected to the battery

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMLVU25250_A2/Output/Index.html?tM=[/QUOTE]

Thanks, clanter, that’s what my manual said about the battery, but not what was in the tractor on delivery. I called the dealership about it, and they said it was maintenance free. (I wanted to see if I needed to put water in the battery, trying anything to keep from having to buy a new one.) The new battery has cells.

SuzieQ, the new battery has cells, the old one didn’t. I was concerned that it might not be the correct battery after all.

Yes, it has a FEL, I just can’t operate it properly. I can’t get a bucketful in one scoop. I can’t get the shredder off, I don’t have the strength. Yes, his name is Johnny and it’s the 23HP. I bought the smallest one because I don’t have a lot of acreage and thought a small one would be easy to deal with.

I know these are all things that take practice, but sometimes it’s just too much to deal with.

Thanks, Tom King, I will. It’s just that the way things are going lately, if I hadn’t checked, I would have ruined something.

I replace the wet cells in our tractors pretty quickly with AGM batteries. Have had issues in past with leaks leading to acid all over the front of the tractor.

[QUOTE=airhorse;8191492]
I replace the wet cells in our tractors pretty quickly with AGM batteries. Have had issues in past with leaks leading to acid all over the front of the tractor.[/QUOTE]

Something to consider if changing to an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery for cars/tractors who’s charging system was not set up for their use.

“As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. These batteries can be charged to 2.40V/cell (and higher) without problem; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell), and a direct replacement with a sealed unit could spell trouble by exposing the battery to undue overcharge on a long drive.”

“AGM and other sealed batteries do not like heat and should be installed away from the engine compartment”.

[QUOTE=gumtree;8192106]
Something to consider if changing to an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery for cars/tractors who’s charging system was not set up for their use.

“As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. These batteries can be charged to 2.40V/cell (and higher) without problem; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell), and a direct replacement with a sealed unit could spell trouble by exposing the battery to undue overcharge on a long drive.”

“AGM and other sealed batteries do not like heat and should be installed away from the engine compartment”.[/QUOTE]

Been using them in all of our vehicles and implements for 15 years now with no issues.

I just wanted to add that scooping up stuff with the bucket is a skill that some of us are born with and some of us have to spend a lifetime learning. I’ve had my tractor for over 10 years now and there are days when scooping just doesn’t work on the first pass.

You have to have the angle of the bucket right for the start of the scoop, the power correct, the speed correct and then you have to time the scooping action just right which is a combination of the bucket and the arms… and all of that depends on what it is you are scooping!

Don’t despair, just don’t practice with anyone watching.

[QUOTE=Hilary;8192841]
I just wanted to add that scooping up stuff with the bucket is a skill that some of us are born with and some of us have to spend a lifetime learning. [/QUOTE]

Bucket level indicator…

I will also mention that working with a skid steer bucket on your tractor is much easier than working with the utility bucket they normally come with.