Attaching biothane reins - alternatives to clips?

[GreyDes]

I typically use clips on my biothane reins, on the working theory that if something needs to break, the clip is the weak point.

However, my husband had his horse scratch his leg with his head, and accidental pull off a clipped rein. He’s now nervous about using clips, so I’m curious how other people are attaching biothane reins.

Do you use slobber straps, something else, or just attach them directly to the bridle? If you attach them directly to the bridle, will something still break under pressure?

My short-term fix is to give him leather reins on his his trail bridle, but since I’ll be the one cleaning them, I really want to switch back to biothane ASAP

Thanks all!

[Guilherme]

A Conway Buckle is an easy way to attach reins. There are all kinds of systems that can work.

I’m not of the “breakaway” school of thought on reins (or halters, lead ropes, etc.). That will color my thinking.

G.

[Malda]

Thanks for posting this. I’ve wanted biothane reins (I have a biothane bridle) but did not want the clips, I’ve known a couple of people who had them unclip while they were riding. Now time to shop for reins.

[QUOTE=Guilherme;6680599]
A Conway Buckle is an easy way to attach reins. There are all kinds of systems that can work.

I’m not of the “breakaway” school of thought on reins (or halters, lead ropes, etc.). That will color my thinking.

G.[/QUOTE]

[pdq]

raising hand I’m also in the community of “had them unclip at a VERY inopportune moment” (short story but extremely funny…and gets funnier as time rolls on)

After the above adventure (which will remain untold here) I added a thin strip of Velco to hold the offside rein in conjunction with the clip. I leave the nearside clip alone - since that is the side I use to clip/unclip, and want to do it at ease.

No more worry about both clips letting loose at a bad time…only one since the other is well secured.

[wateryglen]

Me too!

This is a very familiar problem for me too! At least 10 times my Techna synthetic beta type reins have come unclipped. These came w/alligator clips. Horse is a draft cross and rubs too. So I had to remove the clips and just attached reins to the bit directly. No biggie. With another brand I made 2 holes and used Chicago screws thru the doubled back reins. Felt that was pretty strong. Worked! Yet can be removed. Got the screws at a tack shop/leather shop especially those that works on western tack.
Good luck!

[Guilherme]

[QUOTE=wateryglen;6688891]
This is a very familiar problem for me too! At least 10 times my Techna synthetic beta type reins have come unclipped. These came w/alligator clips. Horse is a draft cross and rubs too. So I had to remove the clips and just attached reins to the bit directly. No biggie. With another brand I made 2 holes and used Chicago screws thru the doubled back reins. Felt that was pretty strong. Worked! Yet can be removed. Got the screws at a tack shop/leather shop especially those that works on western tack.
Good luck![/QUOTE]

Be careful with Chicago Screws. They have a tendency to loosen and back out. If you use them then checking tightness has to be part of your pre-ride equipment check every time.

Some people use a drop of LockTite and that can work. It does make removal more difficult, but not impossible.

G.

[katarine]

I hate Chicago screws- when they fail you’re left with one useless half of the equation, while the other is lost in the footing. And they love to fail.

[katarine]

I found some tiny versions of these snaps, I prefer them to the normal clips

http://www.performance-equestrian.com/cat/catitem.asp?pc=SH&d=2&s=2

[Guilherme]

[QUOTE=katarine;6689921]
I hate Chicago screws- when they fail you’re left with one useless half of the equation, while the other is lost in the footing. And they love to fail.[/QUOTE]

Indeed. I carry a Swiss Army Knife at all times and if I find myself with tack containing Chicago Screws (and none of my personal tack does ) the first thing I do is whip out the screw driver and go to work. I ALWAYS find loose ones except:

a. The screw was secured by LockTite (or something like it).

b. The screw is into a leather or other material that acts like a “gasket” or “washer” that keeps tension on the screw and discourages loosening. Note that it just discourages “backing out,” it doesn’t prevent it.

I still like Conway buckles.

G.

[katarine]

I like conways if I’m not going to undo them often. We often dismount on rides and I’ll unclip one side of my horse’s reins to loop it around DH’s horse’s saddle horn. He has enough slack to wiggle and itch, more than he would if just looped…so I do like one side to readily unclip…

[Equibrit]

Locking snap hook; http://www.2houndsdesign.com/Upgrade-Leash-to-Locking-Snaphook--pr-603.html

Heavy duty split key rings; http://www.mrlock.com/mfg/lucky_line/key_ring_dimensions.html

[Guilherme]

[QUOTE=Equibrit;6691558]
Locking snap hook; http://www.2houndsdesign.com/Upgrade-Leash-to-Locking-Snaphook--pr-603.html

Heavy duty split key rings; http://www.mrlock.com/mfg/lucky_line/key_ring_dimensions.html[/QUOTE]

I’d be leery of both these items. Neither seems to be to “robust” enough for routine equine use.

If Conway buckles don’t work then I’d take the Biothane reins and either add an appropriate buckle yourself or take the reins to shoe repair shop and have them add an appropriate buckle. Some leather craft shops will also do this for reasonable fee. As might a saddle repair shop.

G.

[wendy]

http://www.hought.com/end.eng.reins.basic.html

regular buckles.