We’ve been chatting about a barndominiun around here and this size might allow for a few stalls and living space. Ideas on cost to buy and erect such a beast in New England? I guess 100x100 is the roof size, and everything fits underneath it. So a half dozen stalls for critters and living quarters on either side of an 60x100 indoor. Working now on plan. Land and sitework not included yet lol.
So, you’re looking for a quote on 60x100 clear span with 2 lean-to’s, or so it seems? One helpful piece of info: are you planning for the roof to be continuous, or have it lower over the lean-to areas? Also, will there be a wall separating the indoor from those areas?
5 years ago my 60x196 was about $100,000 for the just the outer building.
Thanks, that helps! I think i like the look of one big roof, but need to learn why one style is superior to the other.
You better hurry, metal went up 35% last year and is going up another 15% in February, shippers have given notice to their customers and builders buy from those companies.
Find out what the cost per square feet is for housing like you intend to build where you are to calculate the house part, then get quotes on the internet for the shell barn, figure if those were portable stalls, prices are all over the internet for those, then add 1/2 to that. 
If you don’t have a builder yet, find a good local real estate attorney and ask for references, they know all the builders, who does a good job, who gets in trouble and don’t pay subcontractors, or not in time, so you may get a lien on the place being built, etc.
Here, ballpark, the house may be around $120, the other about $25, but where you are, who knows.
Everyone I have talked to over the years, even with bids, once building, so much kept coming up, they had to throw their hands up and just keep paying and ended up costing way more.
That is because most building don’t really know what they want until on the job and then things look different, more options show up and building balloon and so do costs.
Is the nature of the beast, unless someone has built before and already knows more what to expect.
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Jump ahead and factor in the cost of insuring the dreamed-about place before you construct human living space, horse living space, riding arena, and other functions such as hay and feed storage all under a single roof.
I have no idea of your location and building codes, but where I am insuring such a place would be quite expensive. Much more so than insuring a separate home or condo units, a barn, and a covered arena.
And, the previous post about materials cost is excellent. Your timing is such that rising demand and lowered supply will significantly add to your construction costs versus building the same structure last year.
I am assuming that you do not have immensely deep pockets, but if you do you may ignore my reply.
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Sounds like a fun project. Something to keep in mind is snow load on that roof. Remember that weird winter (2015-16?). In my neck of New England we got 10 feet of snow in 3 weeks or so. 4 indoor rings collapsed within a 10 mile radius of my house. In at least one of the cases I’m aware of the construction was at fault: insufficient support from the joists.
I’ve been thinking about this because I’m a bit concerned that this winter is setting up the same way. Fingers crossed that it’s not that bad.
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My stall area and arena are the same height because it was cheaper…but recently I realized that putting the wall between the stalls and arena may have made it a moot point. Oh well, if I’d gone lower I wouldn’t have much room to stack hay above my wash stall and tack room, and it’s pretty nice in the summer with a 14’ + ceiling. One problem with 14’ aisle doors though: when a wild storm comes through the whole aisle (58 ft) can get wet. Less wild storm the first 12’ will.
For your structure, if the lean-to is lower you could put sidelights or window on the walls above the side roofs.
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I actually live in a barnominium I had built six years ago. It’s only 60’X56’ with a corner run-in for the horses. I live in a 30’X56’ area. Six years ago the whole thing cost me about $260,000. You’ve already gotten great information. One more thing I’d add is to be very aware of dust issues if you put an arena in it. Even with strict dust control, barns are dusty, dirty places.
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In some areas the space that you are considering are not allowed. I would check with your local building codes first and then check with insurance companies to see if it will be insured and how much it would cost.
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As long as you are going to have that much roof space, you should take advantage of it by 1) orienting the building so the roof faces due south, and 2) engineer the roof to be able to hold solar panels. Congress just extended the tax incentives for solar, meaning the feds will cover 26% of the equipment cost, and most of the states in New England have nice incentives on top of that.
With a 100x100 footprint, let’s say your roof area will be 11,000 SqFt. (will depend on pitch, overhang, etc). Solar panels on the south-facing half of that roof could generate all the power you’d use on site. Pair this with a bank of batteries (also covered by the federal incentives, as long as they’re charged only from the solar panels and not from the grid) and you’d be using solar power 24/7 and your energy costs will be zilch.
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Right, solar works great on the roof and walls, unless you are where your storms have hail the size of grapefruits, then they get torn to pieces.
We considered them, even on walls, as they really work in our sunny area, but the wind and hail has torn practically every one that has been put up sooner or later.
We use them replacing windmillsI.
Is easy to replace a couple panels low down than working on a windmill high up, but windmills lasted 75+ years.
I wonder how the solar panel farms handle destructive storms?
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@Bluey And when that massive hail storm comes through, are you asserting that your metal roof (without solar panels) would not be damaged by grapefruit sized hail? Imma gonna politely call BS on that. Yes, a major storm that would have damaged your roof anyway may result in solar panel damage instead of roof damage. It’s an insurance claim one way or another–solar panels do not create loss/risk that you don’t already face. In fact, the panels are protective, because those icy grapefruits would just damage the easily-replaced individual panels instead of damaging your far-less-easy-to-replace metal roof.
Wind’s not an issue. The racking system just needs to be engineered for the site conditions and rated wind load, just like your building needs to be. I have 200+ acres on Guam covered in solar panels that are rated for 180mph wind. They’ve come through several big typhoons just fine.
In TX @Bluey has ideal conditions for windpower and therefore solar power is not ideal for you. In TN and throughout the SE, the wind resource is exceptionally poor, so windpower on a residential scale is not feasible. (it’s a different story for utility scale turbines, but that’s not relevant here)
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There used to be a tax credit for metal roofs but it may only apply to the residential portion. You could check with your tax advisor to see what may be out there.
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Hey I have a 150’ x 150’ metal building and get loads of sunlight In WV pan handle. Is there a certain brand or type of solar panels you would suggest? I’m looking at adding them in the next couple years.
@luvmyhackney At the residential scale, most installers will just offer one or two panel types–easier to get volume discounts and deal with a supplier and panel that they are comfortable with. Jinko, Trina, Longi, JA Solar are all big names that I’d trust. But I work on big utility-scale projects and I don’t know what manufacturers the “small solar” market is using these days.
To compare panels, look at the power rating (how many watts the panel puts out) and even more important, the efficiency (how much of the sunlight received by the panel actually gets converted into power?). And warranty should be 20-25years. Generally the point of failure of your system will be the inverter, so pay close attention to those warranties too.
Those key metrics are a good way to judge quality–and as with anything, quality comes with a price. But a higher power rating and efficiency = fewer panels needed to meet the desired power output. This equals lower installation costs, so as you can guess, your installer doesn’t have much incentive to sell you a more efficient panel. They make their $margin on the installation, so more panels is good for their wallet (not yours).
Don’t dally on getting this done–the 26% federal incentive only got extended for 2 years, then it drops to 22% in 2023, and 0% in 2024. For a $20k project, giving up a 26% incentive is not chump change.
With a solid Dem administration, fairly decent chance that they extend again. But honestly residential solar isn’t the best way to fight climate change–it’s mainly a good way to save on utility bills. In that way rooftop solar disproportionally benefits the wealthy and hurts the disadvantaged communities. So what we’re hearing so far is that this administration will focus hard on environmental justice and climate change rather than just Yay! Solar is Good!). It’s very possible the administration lets that incentive sunset, in favor of more impactful policy.
Hope this helps!
ETA Had an extra minute so thought I’d look up WV state-level incentives (dsireusa.org)
You have a GREAT net metering regime, where your excess generation gets paid out at retail rate (i.e. what you pay for electricity. In a lot of states, excess generation is only paid at wholesale / avoided cost, which is pennies on the dollar). https://programs.dsireusa.org/system/program/detail/2380/net-metering
Seriously, you need to install solar.
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