What are other steps to have in mind?
Are there other steps you see as critical? Are boots always necessary?
I put much less thought into transitions in the past and feel like I got lucky but want to set my horse up for success.
When I have a client wanting to transition, we work together to Prepare those hooves to meet the ground as best as we can. I want them to do exactly as you have above, except X-ray unless there’s obvious pathology (i.e., laminitis, etc):
If another round of shoing is necessary, I instruct the owner to paint the soles every single day with either Keratex or Kevlar Hoof… then, on shoe day, POLITELY ask the farrier to not carve any sole or bar out.
Then continue with the Keratex or KH until shoe pull day. In between, adjust the diet where necessary, removing as much sugar & starch as humanly possible. Also add copper/zinc if not already present in sufficient numbers. Get the horse moving more… if possible, 24/7 turnout.
Instead of buying boots right off, IF the horse is truly ouchie, we’ll cut out pieces of Garden Kneeling Pad and tape them on. This gives the owner time to measure properly for hoof boots, while providing protection until they arrive. Removed, allowed to dry out, reapply Keratex, tape on a new set if necessary.
I never ever want a horse sore, but it may happen. We plan for the best and prepare for the worst.
For boots, I have seen the best success with the Equine Fusion Jogging Shoe. Can be padded or not. Decent price point. Allows the most freedom of hoof movement, yet doesn’t rub.
www.comforthoofs.com is the US dealer
I wish I’d had the boots before I needed the boots. YMMV
What is a decent price if you don’t mind my asking?
Smartpak says this is alcohol and fiber. I would think that once the alcohol evaporates the fibers would fall off? I’d love to know what makes you grab this product over others because your hoof advice is always so great.
@ChocoMare Re: the Equine Joggers:
site shows a product The 24/7, designed as a 6wk glue-on.
Not enough info (or I skimmed past it 
) to know if a Pro familiar with glue-ons would need to apply.
What do you think?
I think having hoof boots on hand is critical. If you are going to have less than perfect days (and most horses do at first), they are probably going to be right at the beginning.
Also: fly boots. Summer stomping is hell on all hooves.
I was stressing about hoof boots because my horses measurements were a bit odd and he has a taller hoof (PRE) as opposed to wider, flat and round. I’m glad I didn’t spend the money, to be honest. He never needed them. He came out of shoes and pads in October, with 2 quarter cracks. One growing out, the other kept cracking. They were bad.
Removing his shoes is one of the best things I’ve ever done for him, if not THE best thing. He was comfortable on soft ground immediately. Took a few weeks to be comfortable on harder/more rocky ground.
It’s now June and both quarter cracks are gone. These were gnarly. True quarter cracks that cracked at the coronary band and grew downward. There was blood at one point. Thanks to 3 farriers that couldn’t seem to fix a simple balance issue! So I decided to try a trimmer, and she’s great! He missed more work shod (due to cracking) than he ever did unshod. Transitioned almost flawlessly, surprised me! Everything I read and heard said a horse with quarter cracks needed to be shod.
I do think movement is very important. I slowly introduced different terrain to him. Started walking down the dirt packed driveway, a small bit of asphalt, a “softer” trail, and slowly expanded the distance and into harder and more rocky ground. I still walk/ride on asphalt/road once a week.
This is my 3rd/4th level dressage horse in regular work, so he’s active. Wish I would’ve removed the shoes years ago!
I agree with the points about diet. Very low sugar and starch, and balanced vit/mins. I couldn’t use hoof hardener beforehand due to the pads. Doesn’t hurt I suppose. A good trimmer/farrier is also crucial. Best of luck!
I would definitely have some boots handy for comfort… you want him moving and using the foot correctly for the best rehab experience and to set him up for success… Hoof Armor can also be valuable in building sole. I personally like Scoot Boots and EasyCare Gloves… you can add pads to either one… I’ve also found the EasyCare Clouds to be wonderful if you’re having trouble getting a heel first landing at first.
So many people just remove the shoes and expect them to tough it out, then end up going back to shoes saying what a failure going barefoot was for their horse. I currently have a senior OTTB who “could never go without shoes” tearing up the pastures barefoot and happy. It was a long road with him but so worth it.
The issue with boots, for me, was that everyone said “oh I love x boots” or “x boots are the best” but it was all irrelevant since they didn’t suit my horse’s hoof shape and measurements. I mean, suggestions were appreciated, but you’ve just got to use what works for the horse.
I was really convinced that my horse would need them, the trimmer said hold on a second, and it ended up fine. He actually seemed more comfortable out of shoes (that’s how much his feet were effed up). However, another horse I know is about to go unshod and it’s likely he will need boots. Different horse, different sole, different hoof.
So you just do your best to set the horse up for success and go from there.
No need to tough it out, boots are fine if he needs them.
I would also take photos every few weeks. For me it was interesting to see little changes. Also take a video (in slow mo or that you can play in slow mo) with the phone on the ground/level to the hoof (might need a second person for this) to see how the hoof lands. Ideally you are striving for the heal first landing, but it might not start that way. Just another thing that is good to know and interesting to see.
Boot fit is definitely very very important… so… the best boot is the one that fits… hopefully OP has a trimmer who is very knowledgeable on boot fit etc.
I’m a newb to boots but my trimmer has boxes of “forms / sample boots” and we were able to try them on my horse. The Renegade Classics fit my horse the best so that’s what I ordered. Maybe the OP’s trimmer has similar?
That would be ideal for sure… boots will also help keep the horse in work. Exercise being another important part of rehab.
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