Barn Electric - Do's and Dont's

Hi All! We are getting ready to install permanent electric in my barn, versus the hot mess of extension cords we’ve been using for some time :nonchalance:, and I’m wondering what others would recommend who have been there, done that.

I have a five stall barn with a feed room (center aisle, three stalls per side) and I’m wanting enough outlets that I can have fans easily plugged in for our hot, Texas summers and then lights for my broodmares in winter. I’d like to have an outlet or two near where I groom for clippers, my vacuum, etc. I was thinking permanent lights over the main aisle.

How did you all do your light switches? What types of light fixtures do you find work best in barns? The barn is my oyster. :lol:

Everything 4LeafCloverFarm said. I just re-wired my entire 1970’s pole barn – new panel, everything in conduit, metal junction boxes and all LED lights rated for outdoors/damp areas, etc. Now I can sleep much better at night since most barn fires are caused by faulty wiring.

It seems that all outlets are now becoming child proof (hard to find plain GFI’s these days in my neck of the woods)… and they can prove to be a real PIA when you don’t insert the plug evenly enough so as to trip the blocking mechanism. Very finicky outlets! I hate them – and sometimes they don’t work at all – can’t get plug to go in no matter what.

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Ground everything. Our barn is a steel framed with metal roof, I have a separate grounding rod attached to the structure…

Yes to “everything in conduit” or use BX cable which is armored

OP, you may want to look into using some WiFi light switches to turn the fans/lights on off remotely… last night it was too hot until about 9PM so I needed to walk out to the barn to turn off the fans, a push of an icon on my phone could have done the same thing

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I have put LED bulbs in my jelly jar fixtures as the old CFLs burn out. The bulbs are brighter and use less electricity. They actually have jelly jar outdoor lights like mine that have built-in LED lights, which I guess you never need to change, as they aren’t removable. The jelly jar lights are super because nothing gets inside that jar - not dust, not water, not bugs - so no cleaning the inside needed. I love them.

And don’t be tempted to use the super cheap “outdoor” porch type lights you see at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They just aren’t durable enough for barn use IMO.

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So, I’m not super knowledgeable about this stuff but the guy who owns the barn I’m renting finally installed our lights. He put these in: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-2-ft-400-Watt-Equivalent-White-Integrated-LED-Linear-High-Bay-50232161/302456569

I was worried they wouldn’t be bright enough but they are VERY bright. At night, the send light outside the barn to light either end. I can’t remember exact dimensions but I think the barn is 30’ wide and 50’ long? I have 4 10x12 stalls, a feed room, and a 10x14 hay storage area. With four of these lights hung over the front of each stall, there is plenty of light in the stalls and aisle. He installed them flush to the ceiling in a couple hours. The ceiling is 12 or 14’ high.

If you used a light like this, you’d probably be fine to only light the aisleway, or conversely, only light over the front end of the stalls to still have plenty of light in the aisle. They turn on instantly even in the cold. Depending on how cool you can keep the barn in the summer, though, you might have issues with the heat.

I was very skeptical about these lights before I saw them installed because I’ve never seen LED in a barn but they are amazing. I love them every time I turn them on.

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Yes on covers for switches and outlets. Not only to prevent equine mischief but it will also keep them cleaner and that means more efficient and less likely to overheat due to dust contamination.

Re winter lights for broodmares, plan on using a timer for whatever type of light you favor for this. It will save you a boatload of money and effort.

Re switch placement, plan one switch that will turn on a light right by each entry door. Very often for “night check” all you have to do is walk through the barn. The only light you need for this is enough so that you see what’s what and you don’t trip over things in the barn aisle, skunks, snakes, etc. :wink: Bank the rest of your switches in a common location so you don’t have to walk over Hell’s Half Acre to find them and manipulate them.

If you plan on using fans, consider industrial grade ceiling fans. They have sealed motors, last a long time, don’t require plugs (meaning you don’t need as many outlets and that affect price), and can also be placed on timers or sensors.

Heat in Texas is not your friend (says this veteran of Houston and Corpus Christi :)). Ensure that you’ve done something to “vent” heat from your barn (fan, turbo vent, cupola, etc.).

Last, but far from least, take a trip to Best Buy or some equivalent and look at the myriad of devices and controls that you can now get and control from your phone. Cameras, properly set up, can eliminate the need for walking the barn aisle at night. Put enough low light so the the camera will function and now all you need do is use your phone or computer to do “night check,” foal watch, etc. What you will see at BB will likely be “consumer grade” and you’ll want “industrial grade” as you would for fans.

Good luck in your project.

G.

P.S. Don’t forget an outlet for your barn refrigerator!!! :slight_smile:

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Also wire for where you at some time may put washer/drier.
Even if you never do, it will be there if you change your mind and decide later you wanted one anyway.

Ours is in the feed room, in case we ever are training that seriously again to need those, or someone else after us does.

That won’t hardly add to your bill now, would later if they have to rewire for those.

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Another big YES to ground everything and put everything in conduit.

make sure you breaker box has ample service to support want you are installing AND a few things you might want to add later — like outdoor sockets for heated water tanks. Or a small refrigerator:):slight_smile:

you want your insurance agent to be very happy when he/she inspects the wiring for your insurance coverage. – which you ARE going to insure the barn???

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OP will be limited to the size (amp load) of the panel as this will be a sub panel being fed from the house panel…also must factor in distance between main panel and barn’s sub panel.

It does no good to install a 200 amp service at the barn if the house panel is 100 amps

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:yes: Agree with @Guilherme about placing a switch where you come in.
I also had the electrician put in a separate switch for the lights above the stalls.
So when I do a 10P barncheck, turning on a light doesn’t levitate sleeping horses.

Learn from my Fail :
ENCLOSED fixtures!
My open cold-ballast fluorescents are dying a slow death. Going on Year 15, but…
​​​​​​​Not just dust & bird poop, but humidity makes them finicky about the Instant On feature I got them for.

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Very true if they are going to run a line from the house. Where we are I can have two “personal” electrical service accounts. When I don’t have a tenant I pick my main house and the barn for the “personal” rate and put the tenant house on the more expensive “commercial” rate. This means I can have full service electrical to the barn. That makes a big difference in barn management practices.

OP should check with their local service provider on the cost of having the barn on a separate meter. They might be shocked or, if there were here, pleasantly surprised! :wink:

G.

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I put in a barn light switch in my attached garage by the door. I have separate lights on a different breaker up by the house for exterior lighting. Now if it is late at night and something is left on I can just switch the whole barn off easily. I can also leave the light inside on and turn them on before I get out there from my house.
This is probably my own quirk but I like this set up a lot.

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Hey Y’all! Forgot I posted this. :lol: Thanks for all the replies!

Yes, I did install a breaker box of it’s own (separate billing) last summer with plenty of power for everything I can dream up. Meant to get around to all the wiring at that time, but got busy… so it’s been extension cord city ever since. A lot of my questioning regarding this is because I know the conduit labor will be a decent part of the install so I want to think everything through (layout/design/etc) prior to the electrician showing up.

I definitely appreciate all of the insight that’s been given! Lots of great things to consider!

My eyes glaze over when the word ‘electrical’ is used as my husband knows about those things.

But when you say the words ‘extension cords’ my eyes snap open…horses are shod with metal shoes usually, and they can cut through an electrical cord if stepped on. (Just a PSA for any horse person).

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:lol: I’m aware. Don’t worry; I’ve had horses many, many years – the current extension cords are zip tied up high, outside of stalls and away from the two horses I have with shoes. (And while I say “extension cord city” – I’m being tongue in cheek, there are two cords to power fans when the days have triple digit heat indexes.)

Great advice above. I’ll reiterate the suggestion for all wiring in fixed conduit and all fixtures to be outdoor/ag rated. Do use fans approved for ag use with sealed motors. Box fans and dust are not a good mixture.

If your winters are cold/chilly an overhead radiant heater in your grooming stall is a nice addition.

Not sure how strict your zoning is, but if possible make sure everything complies with the local building code and is inspected. Makes resale and insurance easier.