OMG, I thought this was my stalls! Though I have wire mesh above the boards now.
You could lock 15 in a stall and leave 17 loose.
Or, as in the photo above, you could do gates that open inward.
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Lenapesadie, I read all your posts and spent much time online designing exactly what I wanted using the online tools. I was so excited. I could get a fairly large open “barn” with a huge lean-to on the side. Tall, roof insulated, just what I wanted! The price online was $24,000 installed, the next day it was $27,000, by the time I got down to the new area to meet with the local rep it was $33,000! I’m hoping steel prices will go down I thought these are such a good idea. At $33,000 I think I can get a similar structure in wood. For me wood is easier to attach things to. This market is crazy.
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Steel prices have risen dramatically this year I hear. With lumber dropping, it might be more cost efficient to go that route currently. It’s hard to make decisions when you can’t trust a price to be good for more than 24 hours. Those are some significant price increases! At the prices you list I presume your quotes included walls? I’m still patiently waiting for sheet wood goods to come down. My carport is still an open air affair. Fortunately in my climate, the lack of walls isn’t a crisis but it’s not very pretty ya know! Though the increased airflow from lack of solid walls is nice in the FL heat.
Uh yes. I just requested a quote through MD (aka Barnmaster) on a whim for a simple design 24x36 three “stall” shedrow with overhand and sidewall, think open on one side barn, and attached 24x24 garage because that’s the next stage in Part Time Farm development… $55k 
For this? Note I initially wanted two 14x12 stalls but they said it would “drive price up.” OK… Nothing fancy on the inside AT ALL, though I did request the estate stall fronts and divider to match my current 36x36 Barnmaster barn with estate stalls. Yowza baby. Even with my Dad chipping in a small amount (the attached shop would be for his sole use) that’s a chunk of change.
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The barn design was 24’ x 50’ with a 15’ x 50’ lean to on one side. I had one gable end and one side closed, the rest was open. I added roof insulation and some frame outs. Even when I priced just a run in type structure it was expensive. One similar to yours 30’ x 45’ with 12’ side, open on all four sides, looks like it would be about $14,500 now. Pricing these buildings is like playing wack-a-mole at a carnival. 
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That’s nigh close to double priced to what I paid in Jan. That’s insanity.
I really want another one but definitely out of the budget lol
That price increase is what I suspected. I should have jumped on a price when I first read your posts and had found a property. I didn’t want to commit to a size etc. before I spent at least a weekend on the property 
I’m crossing my fingers that the price for Eagle carports comes down or I can find a wood alternative as prices for wood decrease. Until then my two horses and two donkeys are going to have to rough it with a too short, too small existing carport and woods for shelter. Intellectually I know they’ll probably be fine, emotionally I’m a wreck. Be it ever so humble for 40 years my equines have always had better shelter.
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I didn’t want to commit to a size either so I just got the biggest one they made less lean tos lol.
I am sure your horses will be fine, but I understand it bothers you. Think of it like camping maybe?
That’s a great idea. The farm is like a lovely campground.
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At least right now. I asked a local company for a quote on the attached pic and was told “ballpark” $70k 
Seriously? So I kicked the pic to MD/Barnmaster to see what they say. I’m in no rush, but I am trying to get ideas. The idea is “can I even consider affording this?” Yikes.
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That’s a cute plan, but I feel your heck no to a 70k price tag.
Everything is ridiculous high right now it seems
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So, is the ‘workshop’ something you are not using or ‘needing’ as is? Can you give diagram as where it is, and how it could be incorporated in the layout of fencing and turnouts? If you have a building you can use, it can mean everything in your total plan. It did for me. I used an old existing boat shed right on property line and went from there. new roof, extensions for overhangs and run ins, adapted feed room and tack areas. made it work. connecting paddocks and turnouts. In otherwords…how do you want it all to grow?
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Had a monkey wrench thrown into everything last week when we completely by accident found out that our compact tractor WILL fit into the workshop. For some reason we have always thought the ROPS bar was too tall. So that makes us want to be able to keep the workshop for it’s intended use. We have a quote from a local Amish group right now to build a 24x26 shed (7’ side walls with 9’ peak), both sides enclosed but front and back open for $3200. We’re doing some figuring on where we might want to put it. They’re currently 12 weeks out on all buildings but they’re willing to put in writing that the price will be honored fully when they’re able to get out here and put it up. We’re looking at some of the buildings they’ve done in the past and checking references before we agree to anything. Everything is on hold until we get this avenue figured out!
Will definitely come back with another update and some drawings as soon as I can.
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I assume you checked this, but many ROPS have a way to fold them down easily so you can fit them thru low doors.
Good that you are building the shed, will it be portable, tied down only?
That is what we have, this way you can move it easily as your needs change.
Ours are decades old and have dragged them for 5 miles and hauled on a flat bed also, very convenient.
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Yes, this old tractor (mid 80’s model) has a solid one that won’t fold. I got it in too close at our old barn and popped it under the doorframe of the aisle. Had to let a little air out of the back tires and have my husband get into the seat to back it out lol.
This shed would be set on a gravel pad with mobile home anchors down each side to hold it down. Pad is not included in the price but we’re having a driveway extension put in and the guys will extend to add the pad.
Maybe that will work.
In our super windy country those anchors don’t work, shear right off.
We dig a post hole 3’ deep, drop a big chain length with some rebar or old big bolt at the bottom for anchor, add concrete and leave enough chain sticking out to tie/bolt/weld to the shed.
One in each corner that that has kept the sheds from blowing away.
Great that the driveway people will prepare your pad for the shed, that will work well.
Poor guy, hope he isn’t thin-skinned!
Holy crap!!! $70K!!!
We just put up a 60’ X 40’ X 14’ hay storage barn that was pole construction for $25K, and that included excavating the site. We had been trying to get it done since last December and the pricing had gone up about $8K since our original quote.
That open side is now enclosed. I took the picture during the construction process.
This has been a great thread so far, and since my ideas are still evolving… Anyone ever done a “garage” building with roll up doors, and put stalls in them? I’m not sure if I love the idea for future resale or future change-of-use, or will hate it when it’s set up because it won’t look traditional. There is a carport guy with great prices semi-local, has the used car salesman ads on social media that remind me of The Mattress King from Friends 
but all his reviews are good and who cares if he uses a cheap Web site and uses neon lettering on his pictures? He has a three “bay” 40’ wide by 24’ building with three roll up doors delivered and installed (no site prep) for $16k. I could do a three-stall inside with a super narrow feed room (4’? eek!) or see if he has a 36’ option and do two stalls, but would the roll up doors drive me nuts?
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Bluey has posted many times about how happy she is with her roll-up doors which don’t ice up or get blocked at the threshold the way her old sliders did when ice and snow would build up. They don’t derail or become awkward to open/close in windy conditions.
If I were building a multi-use structure, I would be sure to use a design with a tall door and sufficient size to be marketed as an RV parking garage – or at least frame in the door for a tall opening to allow for later installaion. Then, for aesthetic considerations, I would think in terms of old carriage houses which have been converted to garages and after looking at those on the internet, use some of the design features and architectural embellishments to create an attractive barn look and avoid that plain metal building look.
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