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Best Horse-Care Tips

Ok, we all have them…those little secrets that save time at home or add that special touch at a show…A couple of my favorites:

  1. Fake-fleece mitts, designed for washing cars, make the best buffing cloths I’ve ever found for high boots–use after a regular rag for extra shine.

  2. Baby wipes–for any and all last-minute touch-ups at the ring. Particularly good for removing manure spots from grey horses…

  3. Hooks and snaps. I bring extra bucket hooks, double ended snaps, and the like to shows–and always wind up using them for something!

  4. Tupperware and ziplock bags. A place for everything and everything in its place

  5. Put a small rag over the toe of your left boot when mounting a light colored horse, it will prevent a smudge mark on the horse’s shoulder…

  6. Even at home, I pre-bag a week’s worth of grain/supplements in either ziplock or brown paper bags (at the barn here at school, we are responsible for graining our own horses). Preparing it in advance means I’m less likely to forget electrolytes or something and will know well in advance when I’m low on feed. Saves me time, too.

What good tricks does everyone else have?

Jess

Well, I don’t have any good “do” tips, but I have some “do nots”.

Do not try to economize on doing laundry at pay washing machines while at a horse show hotel by washing your horse’s scrim sheets with your underwear. Horse hair is itchy.

Do not wash your horse’s navy blue shipping overwraps with your white t-shirts. No one looks their best in fairy blue.

Do not harass the rookie EMT at the horse show (who takes his job very seriously and believes he there ONLY for major injuries) for Advil when you are suddenly overcome by horrific cramps. Better to keep some in your tack trunk.

Do not throw away carrot bags that will make excellent ice packs when your spooky horse drops you on a rolltop.

Do not assume that because you know the horse show starts at eight everyone else does and will therefore be ready to go in the ring like you are.

Oh, I do have one do. For the horse that pulls off his wraps overnight (like one of mine who then pees on them) sprinkle some hot cajun pepper on the outsides of the wraps for a while. They will learn not to pull them off, and you can stop with the pepper. Be sure they have plenty of water…

<BLOCKQUOTE class=“ip-ubbcode-quote”><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by VWScully:
Hi;
These are great ideas. Here is another one that may seem odd but I have done it for years. I can’t afford those fancy boot bags, so take my high boots to shows in a pillow case! It keeps them clean, is easy to carry and recognizable in my tack trunk!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Does anyone know of anything that will help with those miserable “scratches” that are so common on white ankles and legs, besides Panalog…Panalog is expensive and sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t…and for $80 a bottle…IT SHOULD WORK!!! I don’t know if anyone has a home remedy that they learned from an old horseman…sometimes they are the best!(both the remedies and the old horsement!!!HAHAHA)

Thanks for the info on scratches…I will try the suggestions…I have learned to always dry the legs…however, I’ve read in my veterinary book that you must also keep the areas affected clean…so you have to wash them…drying though is imperative.
Thanks again!

*Put all your silver stuff(bits, stirrups etc.) in the dishwasher to get them really clean!
*Toothbrushes work great too for silver and leather.
*At my barn we use thin quilted square saddle pads that are washed after each use to stop the spreading of fungus.
*As for the scratches problem, clipping + desitin or tinactin(athlete foot spray…less mess to apply) works great. use polos intead of neoprene boots to allow the area to breathe…wash polos after each use.
*those small tack sponges are great for applying baby oil to faces.
*I prefer nylon sheets to cotton… they are much more durable and “polish” my horses’ coats.

Hey, when ya’ll fall asleep half-way through, just remember, you ASKED to see this… This whole thing is gonna make me sound like the biggest neat-freak ever, which I am FAR from, LOL.

OK, deep breath~~

  1. Get stuff–jar of BLACK cream polish. Tin of BLACK wax polish. One of those cheap, sponge-tip polish bottles with BLACK polish. An old cheap dishrag or semi-soft towel/t-chirt, whatever. A soft cloth, like a fake chamois or something. Semi-stiff/soft boot brush.

between these steps do the little brush in the crevice trick above to remove the dirt line–if you do that AFTER you finish polishing, you’ll mess up all your work polishing the boots.

  1. rub off any large dirt clods or any other major pieces on the boots, so that all the stuff left is “cover-able” or removeable with polish.
  2. Take that polish-in-a-bottle junk and cover all the discolored spots or stains on the boots. This doesn’t leave a shine, but it does cover and color well, so use it under the other stuff.
  3. Take the rougher of the two cloths, and get a fair amount of wax polish on it–wax polish, not liquid or anything, it’s leaves a weird film–wax also leaves a pretty mice sheen. Rub the polish over the whole boot, especially in the lacing area, and where the boots have wrinkled. Don’t cake it on, just enough to even the color and “pretty 'em up.”
  4. Find a clean spot on the rag, and go back over the boot to remove excess polish, and to help work it in and even the color. This also helps to prevent clods of polish in crevices and stuff–not a fun thing to find some leftover polish redeposited on your freshly drycleaned TS!
  5. Now take the cream polish on a rag–NOT a lot, a little goes a LONG way–and use it on the toe cap, panels around the lacings, spur rests–yes I said SPUR RESTS-- swagger tabs if you have them, maybe heel area, but DEFINITELY the toes. Rub it in really well, and then DON’T touch it. Your fingerprints will destroy all the work you do.
  6. Now, you get to use the soft cloth. Take it like a shoe-shiner would, one end in each hand, and run it up and down the leg, buffer style. If you can’t do the “shiner shimmy” yourself, have someone else do it, it really does make the legs GLEAM. Now buff the foot part, especially the heels, and when you are completely finshed, do the toes. Rub them gently at first, then do a really fast, nice job of buffing the toe caps. If you can get your arms coordinated enough, they come out looking AWESOME. If not, just rub them off well with the soft cloth, and they should be fine.

If you have spurs, do the leather spurs traps also, you’d be amazed how bad non-polished straps can look next to well-polished boots. Also, get the EDGES of the straps–they tend to be lighter in color, but you can polish them and make them black. When you put the straps on, carefully tighten them so you don’t muss up the boot polish job also. (I sound so anal, don’t I?)

Now for the most important part–wear boot rubbers and CLEAN THEM OUT!!! All the work you do to clean the boots will mean diddly if you slap on some scuzzy rubbers, so dump them out, and then wash them, and then DRY them. Fold the heels inside-out, place your toe into them, then ease the heel onto your foot. If you keep yourself from just stretching them on, it’ll help to keep your boots looking great till that last swipe before the ring. And, if you really want to do a great swipe down before the ring, use the boot BRUSH, not just a chamois/cloth, and really pay attention to the backs of the boots, where they touch the horse. This area gets gross and dingy fast, so swipe it down, and make sure to remove sweat marks from the horse, cause they have a way of jumping to your legs right before the announcer utters the magic phrase, “Numbers to the judge…” You’d be amazed what you see on your leg from the back.

OK, now for a few dont’s~~
Don’t use saddle soap–it’s makes them sticky, and just not shiny–feels gross, plus boot leather is different from saddle leather, not too good for it.
Don’t use leather conditioner on the parts that shouldn’t be wrinkled–It really does contribute to leather wearing out faster, plus they’ll start to lose their shape, and it just doesn’t do any good.
Don’t use cheap stuff–that sounds elitest, but if you really want to take care of your nice boots, use nice stuff. (Not saying you need to purchase only Vogel boot oil, but I wouldn’t recommend grocery-store brand polish either, haha.

Bottom line–take care of your boots–waterproof the seams too, if you can–and they’ll look great for years. Hope that I haven’t just bored you all out of your minds. Heeheee…

OH, Thin Mint cookies–I’ll make everybody jealous now–My mom loves me so much, she bought us about 6 gallons of Thin Mint Cookie ice cream…if you all don’t have the joy of Edy’s ice cream, I’ll enlighten you: At Girl Scout cookie tiem, they make limited edition flavors; Thin Mint Cookie, and this year Samoa Vanilla. Thin mint cookie is CHOCOLATE ice cream with actual thin mints crumbled and whole in it–true definition of “devil’s food.” Samoa Vanilla is vanilla ice cream with Samoas…enough said.

Are ya’ll drooling yet?

OK, wow that was long enough–hope ya enjoyed it.

Ciao,
KBird pony_scribb1er@hotmail.com

[This message has been edited by Kellybird (edited 03-17-2000).]

Sorry, i’d never heard that rubbing it in was half the equation. Oh well, my horse doesnt seem to have suffered any ill effects of not rubbing it in.

Alexandra - Those were Great!!! Made me Smile. . .Thanks!

Ok, we all have them…those little secrets that save time at home or add that special touch at a show…A couple of my favorites:

  1. Fake-fleece mitts, designed for washing cars, make the best buffing cloths I’ve ever found for high boots–use after a regular rag for extra shine.

  2. Baby wipes–for any and all last-minute touch-ups at the ring. Particularly good for removing manure spots from grey horses…

  3. Hooks and snaps. I bring extra bucket hooks, double ended snaps, and the like to shows–and always wind up using them for something!

  4. Tupperware and ziplock bags. A place for everything and everything in its place

  5. Put a small rag over the toe of your left boot when mounting a light colored horse, it will prevent a smudge mark on the horse’s shoulder…

  6. Even at home, I pre-bag a week’s worth of grain/supplements in either ziplock or brown paper bags (at the barn here at school, we are responsible for graining our own horses). Preparing it in advance means I’m less likely to forget electrolytes or something and will know well in advance when I’m low on feed. Saves me time, too.

What good tricks does everyone else have?

Jess

There are various scratches remedies:

Mixture of Dexetin and Furazone
Wash legs with Selsun Blue shampoo
Dry legs thoroughly after every bath (use towel)
Unfortunately, I’d also add Panalog as an ointment, it does seem to work, however it is expensive.
There are other ointments vets can give you such as Otomax (similar to Panalog but a bit stronger)
Keep legs clean and dry.

Good luck.

LookUp, Shorten Reins - Definitely give the Desitin a try. Actually, got WalMart or Target - their generic brand is much cheaper. Get the kind with 40% zinc oxide though, not the 10%. Personally, I think you should quit washing altogether - you’re just re-introducing the moisture you’re trying to avoid, and it’s really, really hard to get them completely dry afterwards. Just give the whites a really good, close shave (tranq if you have too), and liberally apply the ointment twice a day. Re-shave every 3-4 weeks. If you are just dealing with scabs, the desitin should do the trick. If they scabs are oozing and/or bleeding though, mixing in some furazone is a good idea. I’ve been dealing with this nasty stuff since August with Rio - we used Cyt-Oxyl, “dew poisoning” ointment, you name it - all a waste of my money. Desitin starting working in a matter of weeks. Good luck with this - what a pain in the @$$.

Lionheart… many hunters go in the show ring ( I beleive mainly conformation classes) with highlights around the eyes and muzzles to help make the horse have that extra sparkle for the judge. It is especially important on Horses who have a lot of dark skin as left to its natural state it can tend to look dull and dry. If you are not going in any major hunter classes or confirmation classes I wouldn’t worry about it.
Flash44, I agree that the most important part of liniment is rubbing it in, but I have used a spray bottle to get the liniment where I want it to go. It save liniment, as more ends up even applied to the targetted area and less in a puddle around the hoof! I still rub it in by hand.
I do recommend latex gloves for applying poltice though it makes clean-up a little easier.
My favorite first aid item is Hydrogen peroxide. I know it can bleach a dark coat, but whenever I have had nasty puncture or other wounds not-serious-enough-for-stitches… i have had much faster healing time and less infection. Again you have to be careful about bleaching a dark horse, but if the wound is nasty… I would rather have to body clip than wait months for a wound to heal.

[This message has been edited by barngirl (edited 03-16-2000).]

hmm, all that work and no one’s interested. sniff Heehee, maybe everyone’s already trying to follow the system–knee-deep in polish, covered in black staind, but dang! the boots look good.

Or maybe they’re just gorging on ice cream, like me, LOL.

Hey, Kellybird~ That Girl Scout thin mint ice cream sounds great! Have you tried the Edy’s Grand Ice Cream Sandwich Ice Cream? That stuff is TO DIE FOR! It’s got hunks of ice cream sandwiches in it, ya’ know, like the cheap ones that stick to the roof of your mouth! MMMMMMM! Looks like I’m making a trip to town now! Thanks for the boot polishing tips~ just in time! SUZ

Question about Orvus:
I was told a long time ago not to use Orvus on anything breathing- literally. Apparently it was first designed as an industrial cleaner (as in factory floors & waste, etc.) I do know of someone who used it on their gray and it burned patches of hair off. (Could have just been an allergy with that particular horse.)

Has anyone else heard of this or is just an old-wives tale like the kid who ate pop rocks, drank a coke and exploded?

Cloth unfolded diapers. Good for just about everything and does not leave lint like terry cloth towels. You get a doz in a package.

Look Up - you can get Dermalone from a vet, which is just like Panalog except you can get it in a small $10 tube.

To heal acute scratches - NEVER get the horse’s legs wet. Water is a huge factor in aggravating the condition.

If your horse must get turned out or bathed, apply TONS of Healex to the affected area to completely seal it off from the water/mud.

Do the horse up in Panalog/Dermalone using pastern bandages or Vetwrap around the whole foot, just don’t do the Vetwrap too tight.

cytoxyl is great for scratches or the florida crud. you can get it from your vet and it works really quickly. my pony had the florida crud last year and i used cytoxyl for two days and it was gone and she won the maodel that weekend!! the crud just disapeared.

My vet sells a secret concoction for the scratches that will clear it up quicker than anything else. Trust me, a grey with pink legs who seemed to get it all the time. I have tried it all! The only ingredients I have figured out at this point is furacin and dmso. There is something else in there I’m quite sure, but my vet is very tight lipped about it. This mixture has served him well. Any ideas?
D.

For scratches, the best thing you can do is wash the horses heels with an iodine based shampoo, and then thoroughly dry them. To get them dry, use a regular hair dryer if the horse will let you, or towel dry if it won’t. Apply a good ointment, like furason (sp?) or panalog to them, and rub in well. After rubbing, add another layer. Top it off with a strip of brown paper (no dyes or bleaches!) to keep your bandage clean, and wrap well with cotton padding and vet wrap. Top this off with an optional duct tape layer to keep everything dry and in place.