Best way to clean stinky leather harness.

[2ndyrgal]

I bought a used horse harness to start my boy with over the internet. I asked seller if it had been used recently, she said no, it was in her barn all put up and stored in the original harness bag.

I don’t know about anyone else, but, my stuff gets stored in a harness bag AFTER I clean it. This thing smells like a dirty jock strap. In August. I’m not sure when the last time she cleaned is was or, truly, if it’s every been cleaned. It is, for lack of a better word, gross.

It seems to be decent leather with brass fittings. I didn’t pay much for it (should have been my first clue) .

If I stick the whole kit and caboodle in a clean muck bucket full of hot, soapy water, rub, scrub, rinse and repeat until it’s at least clean, let it air dry and condition it, will I ruin it? Taking this smelling awful mess apart one piece at a time and using saddle soap will take me til spring. It will never have a job past getting my boy going on long lines and pulling a lightweight two wheeled cart around the indoor and I will check stitching, etc before we hook him to anything. I didn’t want to spend $500-$700 on something new or nice used to figure out if he’s going to be a driving horse or not.

If it gets ruined, I’m only out 100 bucks, harness, lines, bit, bridle and all. But I’d like to know if I can “bring it back” to usefulness til I get him confirmed enough to take the plunge and get good stuff.

[VaqueroToro]

I’ve had luck with Lexol leather cleaner and a rough natural sponge that could be folded in half in my fist in order to get both sides of the leather scrubbed at the same time, but that was for cruddy bridles/reins, not whole harness sets!

[Chewbacca]

I love leather new. Always worked great for my needs.

[Drive_NJ]

DONT stick it in the muck bucket all at once
but water is not going to hurt your harness

the way we have been using for many years now and that was relayed to us by an article from David Freedman is:

in a large bucket (smaller than muck bucket so adjust accordingly)
place a hefty squirt of Dish washing liquid - any kind
and a large handful of baking SODA
swish it around til the soda dissolves

we use slightly warm water so its more comfortable for you - NOT HOT

have another bucket of clean water to dunk

put some straps in the soapy bucket and water a couple of minutes then with a sponge - scrub especially the undersides
when it is clean - dunk in the clear water to get the soap etc off
and lay out on layers of newspaper to dry
OR you can hang to dry - I just don’t have that ability IN the house

when it is dry you can assess whether it needs to be done again OR if you got it clean

what I love about this method is that the harness leather feels almost silky and smooth

do not assume you need to oil the leather but if you do - a light coat is probably all you need

we use Harness Honey (I think the name changed to Leather Honey or something)

just wipe on a thin coat of your product and let dry again

You want the leather to be able to breath and not be gooey with oil

if you are talking MOLD then dunk the harness in white vinegar after the clear water rinse and let dry

good luck with the project

check all your straps especially on the reins at the bit buckle
really any place the harness buckles
check for wear
check your buckles for damage
check everything for cracking

[Donkaloosa]

When I worked with harness racers many years ago, we took every harness apart every day, cleaned it with soap and water, conditioned it (sorry, can’t remember with what), then when it was dry, put it all back together. Soap and water won’t hurt it, just don’t soak everything and get the leather totally saturated. I used to like the really muddy days when we’d use the nylon or biothane harnesses…

[Drive_NJ]

Do you think it may be Asian harness?

Some of the cheap stuff from India and the like are not cow hide and are tanned differently and can stink. You can usually tell these by the uneven stitching, thinner buckles, a sour smell, etc.

You may want to check that out because that harness is less trustworthy in a pinch. Buckle castings are not the best and have been known to break, leather stretches or breaks etc.

We usually suggest people buy a decent set of harness from a known maker - used is fine if you check for wear at the folds and on METAL where the harness rubs.

IF the horse doesn’t work out, you can often sell it for near what you bought it for. The cheap stuff doesn’t hold value and will need replacing sooner rather than later.

[2ndyrgal]

Thanks guys

I have the advantage of having a huge laundry room w/tile floors and a big utility tub. Baking soda, who knew?

I too used to work at the race track and NOTHING ever got put away dirty.

I think that the harness is fine, it’s just that the care wasn’t.

I know what I’m doing this weekend!

I’ll check everything twice.

[goodhors]

I would suggest using a natural fiber brush to clean dirty leather. Does a better job for me, than sponges with no substance for friction. They make a red handled car-washing brush with the natural fiber, has a large head and does a good job on harness.

Otherwise, what Drive NJ said, is a good way to clean harness.

Those Asian harness do stink if stored in enclosed places, plastic bags. Some countries use urine as a tanning agent, water buffalo hide for leather. Then the proportions are way off too, don’t fit American horses!

[romewhip]

there’s a lot of tack sitting around the barn unused- including a harness that I just uncovered. I like the method Drive NJ said too. I put my buckets in the wash rack and first spray the thick dust off, then take apart and into the buckets. I use whatever is around for scrubbing the gunk off. Then after harness is quick washed I use Horseman’s One Step or neatsfoot oil depending on the condition of the leather.

[Plainandtall]

Leather honey is my favorite conditioned.

I would not put the saddle or blinders under water.

I think it’s ok to soak the strapwork in water to soften gunk. Use a toothbrush to get in creases. I use an old terry washcloth to rub off sweat.

I also like to attach harness pieces to something sturdy so when I am dealing with lengths of strapwork- like lines and traces- I can pull back on the strap with one hand and have some resistance to rub against when I’m wiping it down- (an action like polishing a handrail) If I skip that step and try to work the floppy straps in a heap I wind up regretting it.