Big trucks, old trailers, and small / off-brand manufacturers

[Nuggets]

I have a nice name-brand 2h gooseneck trailer right now, but with my new truck, the bed is so high that the trailer angles down pretty considerably. Took it to the shop, and the way the trailer is built makes it impossible to block the axles up higher. Two questions: 1) How much of a problem / unsafe is it for the trailer to angle downward to the back? I’m thinking it’ll be uncomfortable for the horses, at the very least, but what’s the other worst-case scenario?

Second question: There are some “off-brand” or small trailer manufacturers that look interesting if I end up having to replace mine, and are very competitive on price - Frontier and Trailers USA are the two I’ve been looking at. Anyone have one of those that they can provide feedback on?

[soloudinhere]

1. Unloading the front axle of the trailer can cause premature wear at best but could also possibly exceed the weight rating of the loaded axle, which could cause failure.

do you have an adjustable coupler and is it let all the way out? When let out is the trailer angled so steeply that the front axle will be less weighted with the horses aboard?

2. I have seen several trailers of both makes - I was not at all impressed with the Frontier but the more recent Trailers USA I have seen have been just fine. They have two lines, like most, an economy line and the better/professional grade line.

3. I had this issue with bed height as I have a new F250 that is 61" to the bed rails. Most trailers are made for 53-55" bed rail heights. My options were to go custom (which I was planning to do) until I happened across a used C&C that was 8’ tall and therefore still cleared my bed with the standard depth gooseneck. I snapped it up but I would not expect very many used trailers to fit a pickup now. Make sure if you do order new that you specify how high your bed rails are and how much clearance you want.

I ended up dropping the rear of my truck 2" using aftermarket 1" spacers in place of the factory 3" ones. 2" is as far as you can go before the rear is lower than the front and you need more parts. This did help as the rake is really not necessary and I have the overload springs in the rear.

[wsmoak]

I don’t know why trailer manufacturers haven’t gotten the memo re: how tall newer trucks are!

Check the recommended tires for your truck – you may have different tires on it now and could go down a size to save another inch.

My solution is that my next truck is going to be a flatbed ‘work truck’. White, double-cab, flatbed. Problem solved.

(I’m sure it can be done aftermarket, I haven’t checked into it – mine is a 6’8" bed and I’d want to go back to an 8’ bed if I switched. No trailer is coming anywhere near any part of the truck then!)

[Nuggets]

@soloudinhere

do you have an adjustable coupler and is it let all the way out? When let out is the trailer angled so steeply that the front axle will be less weighted with the horses aboard?

My coupler is adjustable, but the guys advised against taking it up a notch, since it wouldn’t give me enough clearance if I were to go over speed bumps or divots in the dirt roads. They recommended at least 6" of clearance between the rails and the gooseneck, and I only had a little over 7" at the end of my bed.

3. I had this issue with bed height as I have a new F250 that is 61" to the bed rails. Most trailers are made for 53-55" bed rail heights. My options were to go custom (which I was planning to do) until I happened across a used C&C that was 8’ tall and therefore still cleared my bed with the standard depth gooseneck. I snapped it up but I would not expect very many used trailers to fit a pickup now. Make sure if you do order new that you specify how high your bed rails are and how much clearance you want.

I think we have the same truck - mine is a F250 4x4 as well, and the best part about it is the fact that I have a step built into the back of my tailgate so I can climb up into the bed! It’s so absurdly tall.

The custom vs. used is my debate - I don’t use my trailer enough to justify $25k on a new one, but trying to find a used one with extra clearance, super-long stalls, mangers, late model… etc. seems like an impossible request. I don’t haul super frequently, but when I do, it tends to be long distances, so I don’t want my 16.3h horses crammed into a little 7’ wide slant. Ugh.

[soloudinhere]

@Nuggets

My coupler is adjustable, but the guys advised against taking it up a notch, since it wouldn’t give me enough clearance if I were to go over speed bumps or divots in the dirt roads. They recommended at least 6" of clearance between the rails and the gooseneck, and I only had a little over 7" at the end of my bed.

I think we have the same truck - mine is a F250 4x4 as well, and the best part about it is the fact that I have a step built into the back of my tailgate so I can climb up into the bed! It’s so absurdly tall.

The custom vs. used is my debate - I don’t use my trailer enough to justify $25k on a new one, but trying to find a used one with extra clearance, super-long stalls, mangers, late model… etc. seems like an impossible request. I don’t haul super frequently, but when I do, it tends to be long distances, so I don’t want my 16.3h horses crammed into a little 7’ wide slant. Ugh.

I got lucky finding my used trailer. It was the first of many I tried to buy that didn’t fit. I would scrap your requirement for mangers as they haven’t been popular in straight loads for a couple decades - unless you’re looking for a slant in which case they’re common on 8’ wide, but are likely to be lower as blocking the trailer makes it a very steep step up/

I have an '18 250 4x4. Also have the tailgate step since the bed is unusable without it. I’ll save you some time and tell you that these are the 1" blocks I used to replace the factory 3" and buy myself 2". They were $160 and I put them in myself.

http://www.pmfsuspension.com/2017-19-Ford-Superduty-Fabricated-Lift-Blocks_p_173.html

[GreyDes]

I bought a Frontier gooseneck earlier this year and have been quite happy with it. I have a 2017 F-250 4x4 and it fits and tows beautifully.

The Frontier isn’t as pretty as some other brands, but it’s a solid trailer and my horses like the ride. I have the model with extended tack room (67") and love the space!

[goodhors]

Not sure of costs, but consider taking the box off, replace it with a flatbed on the truck. Has to be cheaper than a newer trailer. Not dangerous like pulling an uneven trailer, stressing the parts, crumpling new box sides when trailer rubs them. You could probably resell the box for almost the cost of new snice you recently got the truck. Lots of folks buy box only to replace accident damaged box on their trucks.

I have had a couple flatbeds on past and present trucks. We LOVE them! Very adaptable for hauling different things. Easy to hitch the trailer when all the parts are so visible. Never crush a tailgate again! They hold a bigger load of hay, no working around the wheel wells. Mine has removable sideracks, so I can secure things if needed. I can reach the hitch from side of the flatbed without climbing up, to open or lock the trailer on. Can sit on bed edge, for a moment of rest. No one I know sits on high tailgates anymore, too hard to get up there now. Flatbeds have too many benefits to list.

A friend recently bought a new truck cab and chassis after talking to us about trucks. She, had a flatbed put on locally and loves it! She says everything about having the flatbed is good, no downside at all. Saved quite a few $$$ by not getting the box, so had money left after flatbed purchase. I would buy a new truck this way, cab and chassis, get a flatbed I liked put on for using with my old, SHORT height gooseneck hitch. Trailer is in great shape, perfect for our uses, PAID FOR. Better to save my money keeping the old one, than buy another, more expensive trailer. Horses all get in it easily, ride well in the old trailer, don’t care if they are in a new model!

[js]

Are you considering buying a 2 horse bumper pull, seems that would solve most of your issues? You can have a hitch that is dropped down and not make any adjustments to your truck.

[soloudinhere]

@goodhors

Not sure of costs, but consider taking the box off, replace it with a flatbed on the truck. Has to be cheaper than a newer trailer. Not dangerous like pulling an uneven trailer, stressing the parts, crumpling new box sides when trailer rubs them. You could probably resell the box for almost the cost of new snice you recently got the truck. Lots of folks buy box only to replace accident damaged box on their trucks.

I have had a couple flatbeds on past and present trucks. We LOVE them! Very adaptable for hauling different things. Easy to hitch the trailer when all the parts are so visible. Never crush a tailgate again! They hold a bigger load of hay, no working around the wheel wells. Mine has removable sideracks, so I can secure things if needed. I can reach the hitch from side of the flatbed without climbing up, to open or lock the trailer on. Can sit on bed edge, for a moment of rest. No one I know sits on high tailgates anymore, too hard to get up there now. Flatbeds have too many benefits to list.

A friend recently bought a new truck cab and chassis after talking to us about trucks. She, had a flatbed put on locally and loves it! She says everything about having the flatbed is good, no downside at all. Saved quite a few $$$ by not getting the box, so had money left after flatbed purchase. I would buy a new truck this way, cab and chassis, get a flatbed I liked put on for using with my old, SHORT height gooseneck hitch. Trailer is in great shape, perfect for our uses, PAID FOR. Better to save my money keeping the old one, than buy another, more expensive trailer. Horses all get in it easily, ride well in the old trailer, don’t care if they are in a new model!

Flatbeds are $4-6k. A truck bed resells for about a grand from a junkyard. Flatbeds remove literally all the utility of a truck bed for doing other truck things besides hauling a trailer and hay. Most people don’t have a “farm truck” they have a truck that also needs to haul furniture and bags of mulch and other things that would go sliding right off a bed with no sides or tailgate. Further, not having the original bed trashes your resale value. Lots of reasons not to get one just to make a trailer fit.

[moving_to_dc]

I would go flatbed, too. Cheaper than a new trailer by far.

Flatbeds do not have to be ugly utilitarian “single purpose” items. If your truck is a 3/4 ton, the flatbed just might increase it’s “saleability”, but I would never put a flatbed on a half-ton. IMO, half-tons are “grocery getters” and most buyers want a bed/tailgate.

You can get flatbeds with attached headache racks, under bed storage, LED lights all blinged out, camera systems, and most every one comes with siderack slats. You can go as cheap or fancy as you want to make removeable sidewalls for hauling “other” stuff. Home-made 2x4’s or even “cage” walls like I have on my flatbed at work. It is a dump bed, so I can add the 4’ sidewalls to haul materials needing them, or leave them off and strap down the load.

My friend just purchased a used 1-ton from 1400 miles away, sight unseen, BECAUSE it had the flatbed he wanted.

[soloudinhere]

@moving to dc

I would go flatbed, too. Cheaper than a new trailer by far.

Flatbeds do not have to be ugly utilitarian “single purpose” items. If your truck is a 3/4 ton, the flatbed just might increase it’s “saleability”, but I would never put a flatbed on a half-ton. IMO, half-tons are “grocery getters” and most buyers want a bed/tailgate.

You can get flatbeds with attached headache racks, under bed storage, LED lights all blinged out, camera systems, and most every one comes with siderack slats. You can go as cheap or fancy as you want to make removeable sidewalls for hauling “other” stuff. Home-made 2x4’s or even “cage” walls like I have on my flatbed at work. It is a dump bed, so I can add the 4’ sidewalls to haul materials needing them, or leave them off and strap down the load.

My friend just purchased a used 1-ton from 1400 miles away, sight unseen, BECAUSE it had the flatbed he wanted.

Here, having a flatbed is seen as implying that the truck was a work truck that was driven hard and not maintained. There is similar stigma against vehicles that have a plow or have ever been used to plow. It damages the resale quite a bit here.

[goodhors]

Soloudinhere, not sure where you shop, but just googling I found quite a few flatbed sellers with various models under $2500. Of course the more options of tool boxes, fancy extras, the more a flatbed will cost. Most have a method of putting sideracks on the bed to contain things well when you need to do that. My flatbed has sides, they come in handy for some stuff, removed for other hauling needs.

Sure folks can buy junkyard truck boxes, along with faded colors, dings from rough removal handling for less money. But OP has a NEW box, bright paint, no dings, so it should sell closer to what she paid from her dealer. Folks replacing box on their newer pickup will not want an older, rough box from a junkyard. More of a “plug and play” item, not needing fixing to use on their newer truck. Heck, her truck dealer might be interested in buying it back for resale to another customer!

You sound like you really dislike flatbeds. Some folks do and that is fine by me. I actually had one lady tell me how ugly they were when I said I liked mine, would never consider owning one to pull her expensive horses with! Thought they were too redneck! But OP is a horse person, wants her truck for trailer pulling a gooseneck. I don’t know anyone who has pulled a gooseneck that willingly goes back to a bumper pull! Better ride for a horse, easier turning, parking, backing, shorter turn radius with a gooseneck than a bumperpull. I would think she plans to keep truck more than a year or two, so resale is not on her list against getting the flatbed. We have never seen a problem getting buyers for a flatbed when it is time to sell them. People other than horse folks or farmers want to buy them for their own reasons.

Just was offering options that allowed her to keep using her present trailer, not wreck the new box sides going over bumps or while turning with low trailer clearance. I would worry about safety with trailer hauling nose high, axles not working as designed. I see many professionals using flatbeds on their farm trucks, both hauling trailers and things for farm uses. Nice lettering on the doors, clean looking trucks, again, very professional looking at the shows even with the flatbeds.

[soloudinhere]

@goodhors

Soloudinhere, not sure where you shop, but just googling I found quite a few flatbed sellers with various models under $2500. Of course the more options of tool boxes, fancy extras, the more a flatbed will cost. Most have a method of putting sideracks on the bed to contain things well when you need to do that. My flatbed has sides, they come in handy for some stuff, removed for other hauling needs.

Sure folks can buy junkyard truck boxes, along with faded colors, dings from rough removal handling for less money. But OP has a NEW box, bright paint, no dings, so it should sell closer to what she paid from her dealer. Folks replacing box on their newer pickup will not want an older, rough box from a junkyard. More of a “plug and play” item, not needing fixing to use on their newer truck. Heck, her truck dealer might be interested in buying it back for resale to another customer!

You sound like you really dislike flatbeds. Some folks do and that is fine by me. I actually had one lady tell me how ugly they were when I said I liked mine, would never consider owning one to pull her expensive horses with! Thought they were too redneck! But OP is a horse person, wants her truck for trailer pulling a gooseneck. I don’t know anyone who has pulled a gooseneck that willingly goes back to a bumper pull! Better ride for a horse, easier turning, parking, backing, shorter turn radius with a gooseneck than a bumperpull. I would think she plans to keep truck more than a year or two, so resale is not on her list against getting the flatbed. We have never seen a problem getting buyers for a flatbed when it is time to sell them. People other than horse folks or farmers want to buy them for their own reasons.

Just was offering options that allowed her to keep using her present trailer, not wreck the new box sides going over bumps or while turning with low trailer clearance. I would worry about safety with trailer hauling nose high, axles not working as designed. I see many professionals using flatbeds on their farm trucks, both hauling trailers and things for farm uses. Nice lettering on the doors, clean looking trucks, again, very professional looking at the shows even with the flatbeds.

This truck is all aluminum. You can’t use a steel flatbed without modification since it did not come from the factory cab and chassis (prepped for a bed). Go get some prices on aluminum flatbeds. They are many leagues above $2500 for a basic steel flatbed. At the shows here, you might see one vehicle with a flatbed, and it is usually an old truck where the bed rusted out.

As I said in response to another poster, they kill the resale value of your truck here. Nobody wants a work truck/truck that was used hard. Anything that sends that impression (plow mounts, switches mounted in the upfitters, 5th wheel hitch) reduces the value a lot here. We are too far from the Texas/Oklahoma/ etc ranching set to sell trucks to them, so we are limited to buyers here - and they want mint paint, no plow ever, low miles, clean interiors.

but just to test my theory, I just leaned across the couch and asked my husband “hey, can I get a flatbed for the Ford?” And he said “no way! Those are so ugly and people will think it’s a work truck.” So there you have it. Additionally his truck has features including a 360 camera and trailer camera that require the factory tailgate to use, so another point to the negative.

$160 and an hour to drop the rear and use my existing 2002 model trailer was cheaper than all the presented options, which is why I told the OP what someone with her exact truck did to solve the problem without losing the features of the truck or corroding the bed with a steel box.

[clanter]

I would take the trailer to another shop for second opinion… after all this thing was built once, it could be disassembled

[goodhors]

Must be an area perception mindset. I also would avoid a plow truck, but the flatbed would not bother me in looking at used trucks. Everyone wants low miles! No holes worn in the floor covering, carpet or rubber. Check the pedals for wear. I missed the mention of aluminum body, agree that like metals should be used.

[Nuggets]

I don’t want to replace the bed on my truck - I’m just a suburban home-dweller 90% of the time, so my trips to Home Depot would be an issue with a flatbed, and I have a short bed - an 8’ flatbed wouldn’t fit in my garage. The trailer is built in such a way that if we blocked up the axles, the welds would be all that was holding the frame and axles together - it’s of course hard to describe in words, but the frame is notched where the axles are, so that the trailer sits low. So when you block it up, there’s not enough room to get one bolt on the frame and one on the new block. I’ve taken it to two shops, and both said to pass on blocking.

I suppose I’ll keep looking for a new (used hopefully) trailer, and only do short trips in the meantime. Darn giant trucks - I love my new truck, but it’s definitely had some surprises.

[js]

Just find a nice 2 horse bumper pull with a dressing room, problem solved. It’s easy to have a drop hitch for a bumper pull, no other modifications needed.

[rothmpp]

If you’re set on a gooseneck, you’re going to have to be super diligent and super patient. There are tons of facebook groups dedicated to trailer sales along with websites. I’d expect that you’re going to have to move fast and be able to pay cash if a trailer that meets your requirements comes available.

I’d second the suggestion that dropping the mangers requirement may help as well.