Bit Help for sensitive/quick ottb

[theeqgirl]

Looking for recommendations for sort of hot ottb. Heres a break down on him ;

• Has parrot mouth. I guess it is mild. Get’s regular teeth work.
• Has little brakes at the canter. Just takes him a long time to trot and kind of runs around when he is cantering. Totally fine at the trot
• Currently is in a copper roller D snaffle. Chews with it in
• He is very sensitive. Does not like being hanged on in the mouth.
  I was thinking he needs to bit down. Not sure if he doesn’t like the nut cracker action from the snaffle. Just was wondering if anyone has any rec’s for a quicker ottb with a sensitive mouth.

Thank you! I cannot do bitless as it is illegal in hunters

[Ponyplusaninch]

Have you tried out a leather bit by chance?

I have one that never seemed particularly settled with what was in his mouth–lots of opening and grinding.

He is very fond of his leather bit. We can’t use it for showing–because he gets too forward, so we move to a waterford or a leather pelham. But at home it’s his pacifier; he’s very happy finding the contact on his own with that bit.

[CBoylen]

If he’s fine at the trot he may not be fit enough to canter softly yet. Your description sounds like a typical unbalanced canter from a horse who hasn’t learned to carry himself as a riding horse yet, not a bitting issue. Usually with these I canter a few times to just make sure it can happen, and then go back to the trot only until the horse is broke.

[RAyers]

Is he a true OTTB? If so, I would first consider how these horses are trained and ridden initially. You want them to grab the bit and run. Control comes from body positions, e.g. stretching up to slow down while letting off the bridle. Using the bridle is only for rating them and not really asking for transitions. But this also means the way to ride them over fences in the canter is not “normal.” It takes a light hand, wrist, and elbow and from those you can create 3 or 4 different canters from working the bit, but always combined the ADDING LEG. It’s not about taking leg off. You have to add it (even if it is a gentle hug with the calf).

My last 3 true OTTBs all went around in a nathe loose ring and they all went up to at least 2nd level dressage. The point is that true OTTBs are VERY trainable. I feel the key goes from working within what they learned at the track and then slowly transitioning into a more hunter (or whatever) mode of ride.

[Night_Flight]

For my sensitive but very forward TB mare, a leather bit and a Myler MB02 were options that worked. I’ve found that a lot of horses will happily accept contact in the MB02 (sometimes too much so), but it can be a good transition bit for some, or a long-term bit for the extra sensitive.

[NancyM]

Unjointed mullen mouth… leather covered can be a good idea, or plastic mouthpiece. Nothing “moves” with a mouthpiece like this, yet tongue relief is there. Full cheeks can be good, if you can find one… or not if you can’t. Nothing moves with this sort of bit, so it’s really “simple”, comfortable and easy to understand. Combined with a soft hand and a patient ride. You could add a loose running martingale if you think it might be helpful. Good luck!

[theeqgirl]

Oh trust me. I know he is unbalanced LOL. I can feel it. He just chews with that bit in and want to make him comfortable

[theeqgirl]

It is comforting to hear someone bring up him being unbalanced as to the cause of excessive speed. I have been thinking the same. I am not sure what to do to make him more balanced. He is in a consistent schedule. He goes out for trails once a week. Very very well loved boy. 24/7 turnout with hay. Good grain and one supplement. Any tips would be great such as exercises or so!

[kaya842]

Another vote for a leather bit. It doesn’t sound like he is uncomfortable just because he is chewing on the bit, though, especially since it’s a roller bit which encourages them to play with it.

The balance will come with time and correct riding. Some are more naturally balanced than others. Some take longer to get truly balanced in a sport horse way.

[fivestrideline]

Love the Myler MB01 or MB02 snaffles. No hooks. My chomper loves his - just be aware their sizing runs large, or at least it does in my opinion.

That, and really good slow work focusing on quality biomechanics and giving him the muscles to carry himself and you. Trails are good for base fitness, but you need muscle building flatwork in there too!

[CBoylen]

Lots of walk and trot work with correct bending and hopefully stretching, lateral work and transitions. Basically good correct flatwork. Hills on your trails. Making sure the rider is riding off their leg and not letting him balance on the bit, and that the rider themself is not leaning to one side or tipping forward. But cantering around fast and unbalanced doesn’t help produce a balanced canter.

[Blugal]

Some horses prefer a bit that conforms to their mouth more, like a double jointed, or shaped mouthpiece, including low port for tongue relief. They may also prefer a loose ring so that the bit can move up and down a bit in their mouth instead of being fixed - this also can reduce the effect of rider’s rein aids, especially unintentional (e.g. moving hands up and down while rising). Experiment, if you can.

Canter usually improves by doing more canter. Try going on a large circle, approx. 30 metres, and pick up canter, focusing on the shape of the circle. After doing one circle, come to trot and re-establish a good trot on that circle. Then canter again, on the circle. Repeat the up and down transitions, focusing on quality trot every time. As you start to be able to establish the trot within fewer strides, you can start doing your upwards transitions more frequently, until for instance, you can do 6 strides canter, 6 strides trot, 6 strides canter, 6 strides trot. You can also reduce the size of your circle to 20 metres. The transitions help to strengthen all the muscles needed to push-off and to go correctly (abs, topline).

A sensitive TB may start to anticipate or to rush, if you aren’t patient or clear.

Another exercise is to set 3 canter poles, 2 strides apart on a 20-30m circle shape. Work on your horse’s shape (curving through the centre of the poles), bend from your inside leg into your outside hand. You can still do your canter/trot transitions on this circle and around the poles if needed. Concentrate on the horse’s balance, the aim is to canter through the poles in an uphill balance with you in 2-point and a light contact on the mouth, and using your legs for impulsion and bend. Once you can do this, raise one or all of the poles, at one end only first, then you can do raised cavaletti. You can then also do the exercise of several poles on a straight line, keeping canter balanced, which is harder without a curve to help you.

All the best!