Bitting for the Keen/Strong Jumper

ISO bit suggestions! My horse is has a lovely, soft way of going on the flat. He’s happy to hack around in the “bauble bit” we’ve been using consistently for the last couple of years. It’s kind of like a Waterford that doesn’t bend - lots of joints/rollers on a structured metal piece. However, he gets so revved up over fences that he grabs the bit and turns into a 1300lb freight train. It’s uncomfortable to ride, there’s no hope of seeing a distance, and he jumps flat and awkward instead of making the nice shape I know he’s capable of. He’s well-schooled, fit and healthy. He just likes his job and gets excited about the jumps.

My trainer suggested a pelham to give me more brakes. I’ve never ridden a horse in a pelham before, so I’m curious to see if anyone has feedback or experiences to share? Bits other than a pelham that have worked well for a strong, forward horse?

Thanks!

My previous guy was a well-trained, happy, “schoolmaster” type of mentality, eventer - he loved to jump and was incredibly catty. That said, he was quick to run on the forehand and become difficult to rebalance. On property, a double-jointed, loose ring snaffle was perfect for jumping (and flatting, on or off property). For novice and below, any off property jumping would be in a slow twist. When I moved up to training, I needed something with a bit more brakes, something that would be a bit more serious about the half-halts, but nothing that would kill his engine. Ultimately I settled on the Stubben EZ Control (it’s usually listed as a Stubben EZ Control 3-ring Gag Bit, it’s kind of funky looking), and the difference was incredible. The first jumper round I used it was picture perfect: he was responsive, sensitive, but forward. (Btw he loved the bit whenever I used it, just the amazing difference of when I first used the bit continues to stand out). That being said, this was a sensitive, claustrophobic OTTB who did not like leverage bits. At all. I tested out an elevator bit, so ask me how I know :lol:. However, poll pressure was perfectly okay (he loved riding in a baucher occasionally).

Bauchers relieve poll pressure, they don’t cause it

Neue Schule Poll Pressure guide
https://nsbits.com/ppguide/

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Theres a thread on Pelhams over on Eventing right now. It’s quite informative. Title is “Will Colman and the 2 rein Pelham”.

Your choices are grouped into a few different basic mouthpieces… unjointed, single jointed, double jointed, or multiply jointed. Variations on these are the width of the diameter of the mouthpiece, smooth or rough (usually twisted) surface. Then there are variations on the action of the bit in the horse’s mouth, leverage, or on the bars or on the corners of the mouth. Which you choose depends a lot on what your horse thinks of each, what he finds comfortable and acceptable. It sounds like your current bit is unjointed? Like a straight bar with baubles on it? If he will ONLY accept an unjointed bit, this is going to limit you somewhat, to other unjointed bits, which a straight bar mullen mouth pelham would be one of them. It is certainly worth a try, if leverage will help you. You have to try it to know. This will require you to learn to use double reins, which isn’t as difficult as it may appear. In decades past, young children learned how to do this as a matter of course- it isn’t a problem. Your coach will show you how to hold the reins. If you don’t like the double reins, there are other options… a kimberwick is a pelham with only one rein, and can be found in straight bar configuration or jointed. Pelhams can also be fitted with converter straps, which attach both the snaffle and curb rein together into a single rein. So if your coach likes the pelham option, that’s a start for you to try.

If your horse is towing, even if it is only to the jumps and not on the flat, it is a hole in his training. So he’s not as “broke” as you may consider him to be. If he was “broke”, he would hold his own pace during jumping training, because holding his own pace during jumping is something that we teach our horses to do in training. So this is something that you need to work on, treating this problem as a training issue rather than just a bit change. The classic option for a horse that tows is an old fashioned style of pulley gag, with two reins, a snaffle rein and a pulley rein, held together like regular double reins. This bit changes the angle of pressure of the bit FROM the bars, onto the corners of the mouth instead, when he goes to tow you. He can’t tow you from the corners of the mouth, he must put the pressure he puts on your hand onto his bars in order to tow you. So the bit defeats him, simply by changing where the pressure goes that HE puts on you when he goes to tow. These bits can be found with very soft and inviting mouth pieces of simple snaffles, and act as simple, soft snaffles unless the horse goes to tow. As he starts to pull down to tow, the bit turns in his mouth and pulls UP instead. He is immediately defeated, and can not tow. You do nothing, ride normally, soft hand, and the horse simply can not tow any more. Because this is a habit that he has acquired, that has worked well for him in the past, and suddenly it doesn’t work for him any more, the habit extinguishes itself in time. When he is no longer towing, and the habit is broken, you can usually move back to a regular snaffle again. Though many gags are jointed, there are straight bar options too. And since the bit does not “close” on the horse’s jaw bars like regular snaffles do, even a horse who prefers a straight bar bit can usually accept a jointed gag, if that is all you have or can find.

Sounds like a combination of a lack of fitness over fences issue and bit.

My horse used to be a freight train over fences - I have pictures of him jumping in normal form, but so far past the jump because he would just fling himself at it. It’s not necessarily his mouth that was bad, it was a lack of overall fitness.

A pelham was great to start, until it became too much bit and caused him to really get behind the vertical, which allowed me to pull to a distance that wasn’t there (my leg isn’t as strong as I’d like, so sue me).

Currently, I flat him in a Neue Schule Verbindend loose ring. I also sometimes jump him in the three ring elevator version of the bit, but my new favorite is a Trust Inno Sense three ring - it has a mouthpiece that looks like a Nathe, but its not super flexible, and has a small tongue port (if comes without the port too).

Those are all great bits to try… but pricey - if you know a friends with them, maybe see if you can borrow first?

Any horse who is well schooled but is too strong over fences I suggest trying a hackamore. I have a horse who is perfect on the flat and is very well schooled but jump schools were a battle. I switched him to a hackamore and never looked back. He is perfect over jumps now, he is adjustable and we have brakes. Only problem is no hunters!

I’d start with saddle fit and training first. Maybe the saddle is pinching when jumping and he’s anxious about it?
Then I’d go to making jumping feel like no big deal. Do flatwork and then incorporate just one or two jumps into the ride, or cavaletti. Get him to see jumping as no big deal and nothing to get revved up about. Make it boring. Or perhaps, at the very least, do these at the same time as a bit change.

Provided pain and discomfort are ruled out:

I had a horse like this (diagnostics ruled out pain, tack was fitted, he was restarted/schooled on the flat/brought along slowly to try to amend his habit of running at and after fences. Years of dressage helped but he would still always always strong) - most leverage bits were out the door because he knew how to come behind the vertical and bully forward. I didn’t like a Pelham WITH a converter for this reason. With two reins it was actually one of the more effective bit choices. Mine was a Mullen mouth pelham so there was no joint. He could lean a little into the hand but when the curb rein activated he learned that he couldn’t expect me to hold him up.

I also had much success with a french link bit when used with a drop noseband. It has a very steady connection and half halts are harder to ignore with the drop. I do see some people get tempted to fit them too low/tight though so if you go that route make sure it’s properly fitted.

(Three ring gag, boucher, kimberwicke, slow twist d ring, slow twist full cheek, a ported/jointed meyler, were all ineffectual for me. Waterford was actually decent. And there were some others that I tried that didn’t work but were very odd and don’t have names that I know of…)

Does he freight train with head up? A Pelham or similar. You can absolutely use rounders/converter with a Pelham and ride with one set of reins. It’s quite common in show jumping.

does he barrel through with head down? Gag (a real one, not a Dutch gag which is just another leverage bit)

You can try a hackabit, it’s a popular choice for some.

I’ve seen horses who went great in a hackamore, and my Olympian’s speed horse who went well until she just decided she was done and…left.

you can try different cavassons as well, double, rope, etc. Lots of bitting or equipment options to address this issue.

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