I’ve recently started riding an Oldenburg fox hunter that is super nice. The only catch is, like most, he lacks education and balance. I’ve been working with him and he’s really starting to balance and become more flexible, but he still pulls or roots his nose when you apply a half halt or bit pressure. Obviously the ultimate solution is training, which we are working on, but I was wondering if anyone had any bit suggestions in the mean time. When I started riding him, they had him in a kimberwike, which I hate, and he was completely behind the vertical, wouldn’t accept contact and was heavy on the forehand. I’ve since switched him to a jointed Pelham which I like much better. He’s starting to ride into my hand, accept contact and lighten up on the forehand. He’s an interesting horse, as he’s actually got a really soft mouth when carrying himself correctly, so I don’t want to ruin that by over bitting him, but he still sometimes roots or tries to pull the reins out of my hands or braces when he first feels pressure. Does anyone have bit recommendations? I’m a traditional snaffle fan, but was wondering if something like a mikmar, with some nose pressure, might help. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
It’s not the bit. Personally, would use as light a bit as possible and when the rooting occurs, leg on. If a squeeze doesn’t immediately help, a strong bump will. Trust me, going to the bit will cause way more trouble. Quinn will root in a downward transition at times. It means she’s on the forehand and she gets a planted hand and a boot. She stops. 
My trainer has me ride in a three ring. My Mare gets heavy and starts to lean through the ride. I have a regular rein on the middle and a curb rein on the lower ring. I only ride in it a couple times a week just as a reminder for her. She also starts to root when we have been asking for collection a lot. So we put a martingale on and it stops the non sense. Again all these tools we use a couple times a week just as a reminder.
I agree with the prior poster. My 17’2 hand warmblood can get strong. I ride him in a 3 ring and I dont touch the bottom rein at all unless he "roots, pulls and offers to bolt. It sure makes a big difference !! And I am a LOT more comfortable with the 3 ring because I know I have a backup plan if he gets strong.
I have one who likes to lean/pull and I’ve had alot of success with a Myler bit with the curved mouthpiece and a Waterford bit.
Agree with a waterford. The horse can’t ‘grab’ that bit. If you need more, a three ring waterford.
My hunt horse started rooting this season. I agree that a kick on can bump them up, but in the hunt field that isn’t always possible. I started riding her in a two ring elevator and that’s made a big difference. I only use it out hunting as she is fine the rest of the time.
I agree with Quinn. The problem started with the misuse of a bit, and a bigger better bit isn’t going to fix it.
the half halt and the halt and all down ward transitions start with the rider’s body first, as do upward transitions. In alf halts, the rider’s body paused for a second, or less, the hand closes lightly, the legs stay on to send the back end forward, ito the the no longer following rider’s body, and lightly closed hand.
Most green horses,will listen to this easily. Unfortunately your horse has either had the effect overridden, or simply destroyed. so, I would suggest, in an arena situation, on a circle, at the trot, stopping your body first, usually it works best sitting as most all transitions really should take place from there, if the horse ignores your stopped body, and lightly closed hand, Get rude. Stop him dead in his tracks, and then immediately release. Ask again Usually by the third or fourth try, a light bulb goes on, and you will get a response.
After that, it is a matter, of lightly closing your fingers, elevating your chest and half halting from your body with a strong leg on, when rooting starts.
I agree with Quinn. The problem started with the misuse of a bit, and a bigger better bit isn’t going to fix it.
The half halt and the halt and all downward transitions start with the rider’s body first, as do upward transitions. In half halts, the rider’s body pauses for a second, or less, the hand closes lightly, the legs stay on to send the back end forward, into the the no longer following rider’s body, and lightly closed hand.
Most green horses,will listen to this easily. Unfortunately your horse has either had the effect overridden, or simply destroyed. So, I would suggest, in an arena situation, on a circle, at the trot, stopping your body first, usually it works best sitting as most all transitions really should take place from there, if the horse ignores your stopped body, and lightly closed hand, Get rude. Stop him dead in his tracks, and then immediately release. Ask again Usually by the third or fourth try, a light bulb goes on, and you will get a response.
After that, it is a matter, of lightly closing your fingers, elevating your chest and half halting from your body with a strong leg on, when rooting starts. He will no,longer need to root. Your hand will have gotten lighter.
IMO rooting has nothing to do with the bit and everything to do with horse and rider. First check teeth, saddle and back, as well as bridle fit of course because these are the most likely culprits. Rule out heavy handed / unbalanced rider? Get the help of a dressage trainer to get the horse moving forward from behind correctly, supple over the back and softer in the mouth.
Honestly I find a bigger bit just creates a bigger problem / even less responsive horse in the long run. You need to address the problem, not the symptom
“Bitting recommendations for horse that pulls/roots”
Leg.
Agree, Big Mama. It is in the hands - I used to ride one like that where the previous rider had stronger hands - this horse could not take that. She learned never to root with me, not because I’m so wonderful, but my timing is better, at the first sign of a root, I caught her, used leg, and that was that, then I let her alone.
Foxhunting has taught this horse to be strong but I’ve hunted all my life and they learn the difference when not hunting.
My tough little Standardbred hunted best in a Kineton noseband, but that would never work for a horse that curls under. It is important also to note that the teeth have to be up to date - the Kineton can press on the jaw and cause cheek pain/abrasion and not work as intended on the lower nose.
Agreeing with all who said “Not the bit”
OP: you need to perfect your Let Go
Even if you think you are releasing soon enough, horse is telling you Not.
Release is the reward, so even the nanosecond you hold too long takes away.
Sounds counterintuitive for one that is pulling, but learn to let go ASAP.
