Board fence repair advice needed

[cardinale]

What is your preferred means of fastening wooden fence boards to posts, and why? My new-to-me property has 3-board fence in need of repair. There is a variety of fasteners currently in place (or not, as many have gone missing), ranging from nails to screws to bolts complete with washers. I prefer screws but wonder about the following.

1. For 2x boards, would some type of deck screws be best? How long should they be? How far should they extend into the posts? What size (diameter?)–#8? #10?

2. For outdoor rated screws, what’s the best material? Stainless steel? I’m in an area with a lot of rain, if that makes a difference.

3. What’s your favorite type of screw head–T25 or some other size of star drive, because of less stripping?

4. Some of the fasteners have puffy mushroom heads, about 3/4" in diameter, with T25 screw heads. Does anyone know where to get these? They look very safe. I can’t post a picture just now and can’t find them online.

5. Should screws be self-drilling? Otherwise, do you drill pilot holes for new screws? The wood is very hard.

Also, the top board needs to be electrified. Would a 4" extender be long enough to keep a strand of hotwire off a 10’ long board, even in wind? Or should I use 5" or longer? Does anyone have a preferred extender to recommend? Or any other recommendations for hotwiring, such as a preferred type of wire or brand? I understand that aluminum is better?

Thanks

[LCDR]

For 2 inch pressure treated rails we use 3-1/2 inch deck screws. I do not use stainless steel because you WILL accidentally drop a few and finding them, especially the green and tan colored ones, is sometimes very hard in pasture grass. Part of my fencing repair/board replacement kit includes the magnet stick that we usually keep in the farrier area in the barn.

One trick when replacing a board is to drive a screw just under the old board about an inch into each post first. Then the replacement board can rest on these screws as you put in the permanent screws. I remove the rest screw after I have placed 2 new screws and use it. as the third screw. So obviously I use three screws per end.

Also, if replacing 16 foot boards I use a pair of 8 footers instead. That is my fencing contractor’s suggestion. I keep these in my box of fence
They use 16 foot boards for initial stability and to speed the install process along,

I have lived through fence nails and phillips head screws. Definitely try to standardize things and go to T25 head screws. And buy a box of T25 bits so you have spares. I use 2 drills. One with a drill bit to make a starter hole at the correct angle for each screw. Then the second drill has the T25 driver. The starter hole helps avoid the new screw going into a split in the post and reduces the risk of dropping a screw into grass.

I also used my miter saw to cut a handful of 6 inch long board pieces with different bevels on the end - 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5,’ and 15 degrees to help adjust my circular saw to the correct angle cut for the joint. This saves a little trial and error time setting up the cordless circular saw cut angle for replacing those boards involved in curved fence-lines.

Lastly buy a speed square for the kit to help do the crosscuts in the new boards. Take an extra pencil or more with you. Choose a wide sturdy tape measure. Add a set of vise grips too. They will grasp any broken old screws or those with stripped out heads and twist them out.

[LCDR]

The mushroom head screws you ask about are HeadLok screws. I use them only for old boards that need to be twisted back down , usually with minimal success. They are way, way more expensive than a deck screw. In my local Lowes they are right next to the deck screw selection but easy to overlook because they stock so few boxes of them,

[mmeqcenter]

On my Florida farm, I used 4" deck screws. When buying from a big box store, you don’t really get to choose the diameter. However, even deck screws rusted and snapped in half in about 1.5-2 years. Florida murders fencing.
I have since learned that nails are far superior in providing shear strength, therefore on my future farm I plan to only use nails. Here’s a good explanation:
Screws vs Nails - What’s the Difference? - Albany County Fasteners

For electrifying the top, I prefer the electric ropes. As long as they’re pulled nice and tight, you shouldn’t have any issues with touching the fence boards with any length extender.

[clanter]

@mmeqcenter

On my Florida farm,

one of the finial product statements of the manufacturer regarding the HeadLok screws states they are not recommended if used with 1,000 feet of saltwater

[mmeqcenter]

Makes sense. Saltwater does a number on metals.
I was in Ocala, a good 400k+ feet from saltwater

[NancyM]

If you have deer, it is best to keep an electric wire as close to the board fence as possible. Because when the deer jump the fence, they will catch the wire, and either break it, or stretch it, or get caught up in it, if it is held 4 inches away from the board. Holding the wire close to the board avoids this. Electric wire needs to be inspected regularly, to make sure that it is still in good shape and working. Get a fence tester… a wire that has a ground spike on one end, and a hook on the other with a viewing glass that will show the spark successfully if the wire is “live”. If it is not “live”, you have to go looking for the problem.

I like metal wire the best for your electric wire. Either aluminum wire, or steel, doesn’t matter. Both will break if an animal gets caught up in it. The tape and nylon stuff won’t break, it is stronger than the wire. If something does get caught up, it is best if the wire breaks. The metal wire will also carry current through bushes, and won’t short out if the wire touches your wooden fence boards. The tiny strands of metal in the tapes and and plastic wires that carry the charge will bend and “work” back and forth in the wind, and those tiny wires WILL break over time, leaving you with a dead wire which will have to be fully replaced- because you can’t find that break in the tiny wire, because the rest of the nylon/plastic stuff is still intact… The full metal wires will carry a charge through bush (within reason) and touching your wood rail should it loosen a bit, without shorting out. It only stops carrying the charge if the wire is broken, which is easy for you to find, and patch.

Once your horses are “schooled” the the electric wire, they will usually respect it if they see it is there. Horses have good memories, they usually will stay away from it, whether it is live or not. At least for a while LOL. I have one who doesn’t!!! PITA.

The wide tapes are only useful to ME when there is no permanent fence, and you NEED something very visible to horses. In instances where I use it, I run a metal wire along with the tape, the two together, to keep the current functional.

For nailing boards on, we use twisted nails/spikes. As long as you need them to be…

[LCDR]

I replaced some fence boards this afternoon and it was an opportunity to take a few pictures of the tools that I use.

[endlessclimb]

Hey, Dewalt cordless saw. If you want to come live at my place, don’t say nothin’.

See? It wants to come live here.

[Annie10]

I’m in N Fl I use deck screws. They won’t back out like nails so I don’t have to go around the whole property pounding nails back in .

[4horses]

I just use star head screws so they don’t strip. I’m never using staples again for my no climb wire fencing. Never ever again! When you go to replace the fencing it’s a pain to pull staples out. A big pain.

The have screw in staples (or cats claws) or aluminum fencing clips. Anything other than staples. If you can use a drill to apply or remove it, it’s so much easier than pounding in staples. My fencing was all put up at the same time and all started going bad at the same time. That’s a lot of fencing to replace and usually it is just me on the farm. I’m saving money to hire someone for the rest. Hopefully next year everything will be replaced. I’ve already put up over 100+ rails. A little at a time.

Staples are my nemesis. Electric fencing is wonderful and I love my electric fences.

[endlessclimb]

Maybe this is a stupid question, but do you have a staple pulling tool? Looks like a very angry pointy set of pliers.

[Demerara_Stables]

Screws only. I don’t even repair roof shingles with nails. I want nails no where near my horses.

[endlessclimb]

Between the two, screws are more likely to “suddenly appear” because they break not bend.

For me, it’s that nails are turds to get out, especially framing nails. I use screws for that reason.

Horses will find a way to try and die no matter what lol

[LazyA1]

I am not an expert, but you might want to consider the shear strength of your screws. Deck screws are made for just that - horizontal decking. It would be something I’d look into!

[clanter]

to me it is easier to carry a hammer to bang in a nail then find that specific screw bit for that screw as it seems the manufacturers are constantly changing which screw head they use

A coat nail in most cases is hell to remove after a few years

But most of our fencing is steel drill stem post and rail with the no climb wired to the rails and posts therefor nothing to back out

[Simkie]

I have board fencing that was professionally installed with spiral shank 4" nails and board fencing that was professionally installed with 3 1/2" star drive deck screws.

I also have a crap ton of old fencing installed with nails, Phillips screws, and square drive screws. Often all three on the same post, in the same board. Which is tons of fun.

Give me star drive screws ALL DAY LONG. Spiral shank nails are a bloody nightmare to remove. The only screws I’ve had fail are the old 20 year old ones as I’m pulling fence.

Two by lumber is also reeeeeally heavy, quite tasty (because it’s pine/fir/spruce) and often pretty brittle. I have some here on old fence, and it sucks. Look for 5/4 rough cut oak for fence boards. Like this:

Oak Fence Boards — Smith Mountain Land & Lumber, Inc.

[avjudge]

@endlessclimb

For me, it’s that nails are turds to get out, especially framing nails. I use screws for that reason.

My problem is getting them in. My hand-eye coordination stinks, so I am more likely to bend the nail than drive it. If, of course, I manage to hit it at all.

[endlessclimb]

Fair enough! They make little palm nailers that could help you, maybe? And as stupid as their prices are MAN can I drive a nail better and faster with a high end tool like a Stiletto.

[luvmyhackney]

I use the Dewalt fencing pliers, they have a few purposes but are long enough I can get the appropriate leverage to yank out staples that the old owners used.

A large flat tip and mallet work as well, but I was spending more time finding the staples I sent flying in the grass than pulling them.